reconditioning Corny Kegs

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Nightbiker

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not too long ago, I acquired some cornies that still had traces of syrup in them, along with rubber gaskets to recondition it with. SWMBO picked me up a family-size (grin) container of OxyClean to clean the kegs with.
This weekend I expect to heat up some water, and use the oxy in the kegs to help dissolve the syrup or whatever occupied the tanks.
My question is how long I should leave the solution in the tanks. Is there a chance that this stuff will harm the stainless steel? any advice, tips and tricks would be welcome.
 
As far as i am aware, and the religous users of oxyclean on here will correct me if i am wrong, but it wont hurt a thing. I'm suspecting you could leave it in there for some time without damaging a thing. Otherwise it would not be used for so many applications.
 
Use the green lid Oxy or you will have a nice fragrance in your keg. Stainless should not hold onto anything very long, but play it safe and use the green (fragrance free stuff) lid.

If you use the yellow..... just rinse extremely well then sanitize.

Good Luck.

Salute! :mug:
 
Thanks for the advice! I didn't notice the color of the lid, but the wife generally only purchases fragrance-free detergents because (for some reason) over the years, I've developed slight allergy issues to some of them (makes for a damn long shift at work when you wish you could get out of your own skin). I'll doublecheck, however.
Looks like I'm safe to proceed then. I'll get to heating up some water (to soften the syrup figured I'd make it pretty hot -not boiling) and give a healthy dose of Oxyclean into the mix, and pour it into the kegs. Maybe strike up the grill and cook some sausages, after lunch, should be ready to start pulling 'em apart and cleaning, I figure. But if the stuff is truly stubborn, I won't fret about leaving 'em till sunday.
Thanks!
 
I would recommend that you leave the warm oxyclean solution in for a minimum of 6-8 hours, preferably 24 hours. If those kegs have been sitting for a while, it may take a little time to clean em out all the way.

Heres what I do when cleaning new (old) kegs:

oxyclean in the keg, lid closed and no pressure for 24 hours.

After filling tank initially, use CO2 to push oxyclean through both in and out posts - effectively generating some contact with all the parts.

Let sit for 8 hours, push the fluid with co2 again.

Let sit for remainder of 24 hours.

Empty, fill with clean hot water, push clean hot water with CO2.

Disassemble, inspect, re-rinse parts, apply keg lube as needed, replace o-rings as needed.

Note: While You have them all apart, it may be wise to trim about an inch off the bottom of your dip tube.
 
After filling tank initially, use CO2 to push oxyclean through both in and out posts - effectively generating some contact with all the parts.

Note: While You have them all apart, it may be wise to trim about an inch off the bottom of your dip tube.

I finagled some fittings and use my air compressor to push cleaner / sanitizer through my kegs... Air is cheaper than CO2 refills... :D

And as far as trimming the dip tubes, I would go shorter than one inch... Trimming more later is a helluva lot easier that trying to add some back...

:mug:
 
Never trimmed the other two kegs I have -I don't mind the initial one-time hit of yeast, it usually only seems to last long enough to prime the lines (and the first glass) anyway, and certainly don't mind getting the last of the beer out of the keg (grin).
 
I finagled some fittings and use my air compressor to push cleaner / sanitizer through my kegs... Air is cheaper than CO2 refills... :D

Damn! that's a fantastic idea... I've cleaned kegs using CO2 and I've never made the connection that less than 10 feet away I have an air compressor standing by. Now the tough part....
Have you ever noticed that the air coming out of your compressor has a bit of oil and whatever else resides in the tank flowing right with it?

On second thought, I'm thinking using an air compressor to push cleaner through the lines may just impart some funky foreign substances into your vessels.

On the other hand.... if you follow here, maybe their is a way:

In a keg not used for holding beer (old one or something) attach a heavy duty plasic bag (capable of filling the keg) to the co2 dip tube like a giant air bladder.

now, suck the air out of the bag... fill the keg with cleaning solution. put the lid on and then apply compressed air to the "in" port - filling the bag with air and pushing the fluid out the other side.

It's a weak idea, but it's the only way I could perceive as sanitary enough for my likes.

Has anyone else come across this before... experimented with it... have any other ideas?
 
I have a water/oil filter on the output of my air compressor... As far as I can tell, I haven't had any issues up to this point...

Your idea with the air bladder is good in theory... Couldn't hurt to try...

:mug:
 
To save on CO2 all you need is one of those garden weed killing pressure bottles that you can buy from garden centres. The ones that have the central handle to pressurise the weed-killing spray. These can easily be converted to work with the cornie inlet disconnect and thereby save lots of CO2. Can't find an example to link to right now but it's simply a vessel that is pressurised by pumping a handle.
 
To save on CO2 all you need is one of those garden weed killing pressure bottles that you can buy from garden centres. The ones that have the central handle to pressurise the weed-killing spray. These can easily be converted to work with the cornie inlet disconnect and thereby save lots of CO2. Can't find an example to link to right now but it's simply a vessel that is pressurised by pumping a handle.

There's your sanitize-able solution right there. Got one of those in the shop too. Hell you could mix your starsan right in the sprayer itself.

Great idea!
 
I use two SS garden sprayers from Sears but they only hold 2 gallons. Paid $10 each brand new as damaged due to the boxes and instructions lost as they were shelf display models just dusty. I purchased them during a store remodel before they were smashed up headed to the dumpsters. I also use a 50 cfm water / oil seperator for my paint spraying on the end of twin 1 hp compressor pumps on a 30 gallon tank out of a dental office that went out of business. The 50 cfm filter was not needed as the compressor has a special s filter for clean dental air for their drills, medical grade air so I feel rather safe using it blowing thru corny's.
At the other house I use a 1/2 hp oil free diaphragm type compressor on a 8 gallon tank. I have not seen a difference in head retention from any oil contamination between both types of compressors on different corny cleanings. I have as well a Frantz filter system if needed that takes a toilet paper filter that will absorb any oil and water moisture but never had to use it.

I have a Frantz filter on my 75 R90/6 BMW motorcycle with over 136,000 untouched miles on it the oil comes out clear you can see thru it after 3,000 miles use.

To not waste your Co2 get a diaphragm type compressor as it is oil less and add a filter. Use a spare corny as a pressure tank as they can hold over 100 psi without a problem including rust if that is a worry. I had one spare corny filled with water then with a gear pump went to 460 psi without it splitting open or any distortion damage.
 
Glad you like the idea Seabee John. Theory has it that pumping sanitising solution through a keg under regular air rather than CO2 is equally effective. The only drawback is that you have to pump the vessel up manually before forcing it through the keg but hey, I'll put a bit of effort into pressurising something with air and save my CO2. :) And yes, you can force sanitiser through it too. :)
 
I have a water/oil filter on the output of my air compressor... As far as I can tell, I haven't had any issues up to this point...

Your idea with the air bladder is good in theory... Couldn't hurt to try...

:mug:


I too was using my co2 to test and clean the kegs. I picked up a few fittings and now use my compressor. I don't bother using one of the oil/air filters as there isn't enough air being forced in through there to make me worry. Plus, I already have cleaner sloshing around. I don't see what harm there could be.
 
I too was using my co2 to test and clean the kegs. I picked up a few fittings and now use my compressor. I don't bother using one of the oil/air filters as there isn't enough air being forced in through there to make me worry. Plus, I already have cleaner sloshing around. I don't see what harm there could be.

oil in sufficient ppm that could give off flavors?

I'm more worried about the oxidized iron vapor (rust often mixed with condensate water) in the tanks making contact with the stainless causing pitting and general corroding of the stainless. Check out the BN Brew Strong "metal" podcast, and you'll get a feel for what my concerns are.
 
oil in sufficient ppm that could give off flavors?

I'm more worried about the oxidized iron vapor (rust often mixed with condensate water) in the tanks making contact with the stainless causing pitting and general corroding of the stainless. Check out the BN Brew Strong "metal" podcast, and you'll get a feel for what my concerns are.

I had a steel 1/4" raw steel washer with no plating fall into a freshly filled corny of IPA before the cover was installed. I didn't have a metallic taste at all and the little mark on the bottom of the corny came off with a wipe of a paper towel. No pitting what so ever after 3 months of the washer inside the corny with bier. Should I start my truck outdoors with a tailwind the exhaust should kill me within seconds I was told once. I'll take my chances and live on the edge. "oxidized iron vapor" I can get this off my plasma torch or the O/A cutting torch.
 
I had a steel 1/4" raw steel washer with no plating fall into a freshly filled corny of IPA before the cover was installed. I didn't have a metallic taste at all and the little mark on the bottom of the corny came off with a wipe of a paper towel. No pitting what so ever after 3 months of the washer inside the corny with bier. Should I start my truck outdoors with a tailwind the exhaust should kill me within seconds I was told once. I'll take my chances and live on the edge. "oxidized iron vapor" I can get this off my plasma torch or the O/A cutting torch.

well there ya go then.
 
kinda like the compressor idea. otherwise I think some of us are overthinking this a mite. But thats just MY opinion -and not worth anything more than that (grin). Always used CO2 to push cleaner through the fittings, never begrudged the small amount (relative) of CO2 it took. But there is certainly no harm in saving $$ and using the handy old air compressor. Its a good excuse to make a trip to the hold HBS for another ball-lock fitting or two...
 
I'm a curbside "junkie", one time around 5 years ago I stopped and backed up for a second look. What caught my eye was a 1/2 hp DeVilbiss oil less diaphragm airbrush compressor. Came with 20' of hose and a mini regulator but needs a small 2 gallon tank to smooth out the pump pulses when airbrushing. It tops out when plugged off at 53 psi. It has been loaned out to a couple brew friends that take a corny with sanitary cleaner and pressurize to 40 psi with the brass sprayer arm off the 2 gallon SS Sears sprayer I have. Also works for tire inflating, this little thing sure comes in handy vs pulling out a 400# compressor or one of those 12 volt POS units. I recall it was not a cheap compressor if replaced. Only fault it will not restart above 30 psi head pressure just stalls unless you disconnect get running and reconnect. I bet it weighs only 14 pounds. Free and it works what can I say? Thomas is another manufacture of small 12 volt DC, 120, 240 volt AC compressors. I gave away a rather old 45-50 year old well used two stage Curtiss compressor of 7 1/2 hp with 120 gallon tank but it pumps some oil. Useless for painting or anything but a friends big rig to solvent or soap spray down before doing engine or maintenance work. He has a like new condition 5-7 1/2 hp Curtiss pump head that is 15 years old almost has my name on it as I have a 60 gallon tank and 5 hp motor.

At the yard is another friends tank wash business they clean big rig tankers cleaned and certified for food grade after being cleaned.
Some of the cleaners can burn into 304 and 316 stainless tanks if not reduced with enough water. What's crazy is a tank can come in after hauling epoxy and be cleaned and next haul food grade products. My friend only hauls vinegar hence no cleaning after delivering a daily load.

How would vinegar work as a keg or corny cleaner?
Vinegar works better than Round Up for weed control just stinks a little but eats cement. Strong like 100 to 300 grain.
A little splash keeps neighbors dogs from taking a dump near my property, must burn their nose works for me.
 
If you run your air from the compessor through the out side of a corny into about 3 gallons of water you should br good. Make a jumper with an in and out poppit and your set. The water should clean the air and hold on to any garbage the compressor would throw out. I don't belive I would us the corny again though after all that oil inside it.
 
I would recommend that you leave the warm oxyclean solution in for a minimum of 6-8 hours, preferably 24 hours. If those kegs have been sitting for a while, it may take a little time to clean em out all the way.

Heres what I do when cleaning new (old) kegs:

oxyclean in the keg, lid closed and no pressure for 24 hours.

After filling tank initially, use CO2 to push oxyclean through both in and out posts - effectively generating some contact with all the parts.

Let sit for 8 hours, push the fluid with co2 again.

Let sit for remainder of 24 hours.

Empty, fill with clean hot water, push clean hot water with CO2.

Disassemble, inspect, re-rinse parts, apply keg lube as needed, replace o-rings as needed.

Note: While You have them all apart, it may be wise to trim about an inch off the bottom of your dip tube.

I pretty much do the same, but I add CO2 and the keg spends 12 of the 24 hours upside down, thus insuring contact to the upper surface as well.
 
I have had bad buildup/scale from leaving oxy in after ???4-7 days, I had to add couple gallons of vinegar. slosh it around. sit upright/upside down for a few hours made it scrub off easier
 
for anyone fearing that some compressor oil will make it into a keg, oxyclean is quite good at stripping oils.
 
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