Recommended Electric/Automatic Grain Mills?

[clawleraz]

Looking for a nice Grain Mill that is electric or automatic. Budget is high. Thank you in advance.

 

[deuc224]

Since no one answered you and ur budget is high, go big or go home.

https://www.monsterbrewinghardware.com/store/pc/Geared-3-Roller-Pro-Mill-Motorized-Kit-11p327.htm

 

[Iseneye]

I would stay away from the ss brewtech one. Multiple reports of uneven rollers.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

This one's only 35-hundo. I'm sure you can get two at twice the price.

 

[FloppyKnockers]

Wait...you never said how high your budget is...

 

[trapae]

I have a monster mill and I’m very happy with it. I bought it before they had the motor and attached my own motor and it works great.

 

[matt_m]

I bought a Monster MM3 and powered it with an American Ale Works motor. I like it but they do have a little issue with not feeding if the unpowered roller sticks. A quick spin by hand and verification with a handful of grains fixes it but if you forget, picking out 12 pounds of grain kind sucks. I'm buy from them again in a heartbeat, but would buy the MM2.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

I bought a Monster MM3 and powered it with an American Ale Works motor. I like it but they do have a little issue with not feeding if the unpowered roller sticks. A quick spin by hand and verification with a handful of grains fixes it but if you forget, picking out 12 pounds of grain kind sucks. I'm buy from them again in a heartbeat, but would buy the MM2.

If it doesn't spin, this tells us the gap, for the malt, is uncorrect. I had to adjust my MM3 for Viking malt, as, apparently, the grains are plumper.

 

[Bobby_M]

If it doesn't spin, this tells us the gap, for the malt, is uncorrect. I had to adjust my MM3 for Viking malt, as, apparently, the grains are plumper.

The first gap in the MM3 is fixed, non-adjustable. Sometimes it's best to get the mill spinning before you pour the grain in. I think sometimes all the pressure from the full hopper puts drag on the slave roller. Another idea I had was to extend the hopper funnel on the slave roller side a little bit closer to the center of the gap.

I did just drop some big bucks on the MM3 gear driven unit because shop mills can't be finicky.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

The first gap in the MM3 is fixed, non-adjustable. Sometimes it's best to get the mill spinning before you pour the grain in. I think sometimes all the pressure from the full hopper puts drag on the slave roller. Another idea I had was to extend the hopper funnel on the slave roller side a little bit closer to the center of the gap.

I did just drop some big bucks on the MM3 gear driven unit because shop mills can't be finicky.

First roller is not the one stuck in a 3 mill roller.

 

[matt_m]

When looking at the mill with the shaft coming out the right, its the back roller that sometimes fails to spin. Moving it a little manually prevents it 99% of the time, turning it on and tossing in a small handful verifies that. I've seen a mod that uses an o-ring to drive that roller off the powered one and I might do that at some point but for now I've "fixed" it. Most of the time.

 

[day_trippr]

Barley Crushers come with an o-ring on the idle roller, put there as an assembly/alignment aid.
It's guaranteed to part and end up in the crush during the first or second mill session. ("Don't be like Barley Crusher" )

I can't recall reading complaints about MM3 idle rollers sticking, so I'd venture perhaps the unit needs to be re-aligned...

Cheers!