Recommendations on basic kegging equipment needed

[ChiknNutz]

I am sure this has been asked and answered a bunch, but there is so many posts to wade thru. I am moving from bottling to kegging and just want to get the initial bits and pieces to that end. Here is what I plan for now, after just buying a 7.6G Kegmenter which I plan to use as my primary, then push over to corny kegs. I plan to build a kegerator or keezer with 2, maybe 3 taps at one time. I plan to brew maybe once a month, so not a lot of volume really. Also need to make sure I have what I need for pushing from the Kegmenter, which I think I have covered, but that's why I am asking the question.

2 - 5G corny kegs
1 - ball lock liquid and gas line set (with MFL fittings and a picnic faucet)
1 extra set of ball lock liquid and gas QDs (threaded)
1 - Tapright CO2 dual-guage regulator
For the CO2 regulator, is the single one adequate if used with a distribution block?
1 - spunding valve

Ultimately will need a 2 or 3 Outlet Air Distributor With Check Valves or similar for the kegerator; then all the lines, faucets, etc.
For the CO2 tank, I plan to do the buy and swap at the LHBS.

Is this adequate to get started? I hate missing that one thing that makes it all useless, so want to at least try and get a working system up front.

Thanks!

 

[Jag75]

I would get a secondary regulator so you can have different psi on certain lines . Also a liquid to liquid jumper might come in handy . I'd get the bigger tank . I started off with the 5 then moved to a bigger one . I still have the 5 # but use it for little things like purging or pushing sanitizer and close transfers.

 

[ChiknNutz]

I was gonna get a 20# tank, but is there a need for having multiple CO2 tanks? Regarding the secondary/distribution block, I've seen some that are just a manifold with fittings and some that have gauges for each port. Though more costly (like $28 vs $150), of course, would that be the way to go? When do you need to have different pressures? Is that for different stages of the process mostly, because don't you serve at pretty much the same psi?

 

[Jag75]

I have the one where I can dial each line a different psi if I want . I have the 4 line . It makes it nice if I have to force carb a keg while another is at a lower serving pressure. You dont neccesarily have to have more then one tank . I use my 5# for little things . My brew process isnt done where my kegerator is so it's easy to lug the smaller tank back and forth as needed . If I had to choose one size I'd go with the bigger one .

 

[Transamguy77]

Here’s a link, you can add a tank for $70 more.
https://www.homebrewing.org/5-Gallon-Ball-Lock-Keg-System-w-Picnic-Faucets-2-USED-Kegs-5_p_4398.html

 

[schematix]

i'd highly recommend getting the Clear Beer Draught System. Not the cheapest but it's one of those things that's just worth the pain of spending.

 

[ChiknNutz]

i'd highly recommend getting the Clear Beer Draught System. Not the cheapest but it's one of those things that's just worth the pain of spending.

Isn't it just a floating dip tube? If not, how is it different/better? FYI, the Kegmenter comes with a floating dip tube which will help keep trub from getting into the keg.

 

[ChiknNutz]

Looking into tubing line sizes...3/16, 1/4 and 5/16 seem to be the ones used. Seems 3/16 is used for the liquid line and 1/4 or 5/16 for gas. Why not just one size for all? I understand the 3/16 is desired to add resistance to help avoid foam.

 

[Transamguy77]

The gas line size doesn’t matter you can make it all the same size.

 

[BruceH]

Looking into tubing line sizes...3/16, 1/4 and 5/16 seem to be the ones used. Seems 3/16 is used for the liquid line and 1/4 or 5/16 for gas. Why not just one size for all? I understand the 3/16 is desired to add resistance to help avoid foam.

For the picnic tap I'd go with 3/16" 10 feet long. I serve at 12psi and that length gives me the perfect pour.

I'd also suggest getting a few extra picnic taps. Mine seem to break every three months or so. I still need to get a chest freezer and taps. Currently lagering and serving out of an old refrigerator in the garage. It works but is a bit of a pain to load kegs into and keep the co2 in at the same time.

 

[ChiknNutz]

Can you use 1/4" x 1/2" OD for everything, just to standardize it? Or is the 3/16" ID really what you need to use for serving lines?

 

[BruceH]

Can you use 1/4" x 1/2" OD for everything, just to standardize it? Or is the 3/16" ID really what you need to use for serving lines?

There is a line length calculator somewhere, the recommended length for 1/4" serving lines gets pretty long. I'm still learning though so I all know is 10' for a 3/16" picnic tap.

 

[day_trippr]

The only beer line length calculator worth using...
http://www.mikesoltys.com/2012/09/17/determining-proper-hose-length-for-your-kegerator/
Cheers!

 

[ChiknNutz]

The gas line size doesn’t matter you can make it all the same size.

Cool, plan to go with 3/16 x 7/16 all around. Thanks!

 

[Bobby_M]

I wouldn't worry about dual pressure outputs. Just get a good Taprite primary regulator and split the output to two grey QDs. I highly recommend using 4mm ID EVA barrier tubing for both liquid and gas along with the appropriate Push (Duotight) fittings.

 

[murphyslaw]

Definitely go with the EVA Barrier tubing and duotight fittings. No barbs and nipples and stretching hoses and having all different sized hoses. 4mm EVA, threaded ball locks, and duotight fittings will save you so many headaches. Works for gas. Works for liquid. Works for jumpers. Works for blowoffs. Easy to clean. Easy to take apart and repurpose. Shorter hoses for serving lines. And somehow its also cheaper.

 

[bleme]

4mm isn't compatible with picnic taps though right?

 

[bleme]

I was gonna get a 20# tank, but is there a need for having multiple CO2 tanks?

I started off with 1 tank but my wife picked up a second with regulator at a yard sale and I love it! It is so nice to have a tank I can use to purge with, or to quick-carb soda bottles with. And when I find my kegerator tank is empty, I always have a back-up to throw on there and get going right away because your tank NEVER empties when the LHBS is open...

 

[Bobby_M]

4mm isn't compatible with picnic taps though right?

I stretch it over 4mm with heat and a tapered tool.

 

[Yesfan]

I would go a little bigger on the freezer/fridge if you're going to build your kegerator/keezer. Two to three taps? Then maybe get something that has room for 4-5 kegs. The extra space will allow you to have some extra kegs on deck ready to serve, the space for those kegs if you ever want to increase the number of taps, or space for a carboy that's lagering, or you can utilize that space for cans/bottles of homebrew and/or commercial.

There's a "will if fit" style thread where one of the members here researched a lot of fridges and freezer and showed what all they can hold from kegs to carboys, buckets, etc. That helped me decide on my current Maytag freezer. It's got the space for 8 kegs if I wanted but run 6 taps for now (was running 4). I did buy an 8 way distributor and 8 tap tower in case I ever want to increase my taps, but for now the two extra are there for carbing up extra kegs.

I also echo the recommendations of the Duofit push to connect fittings and the EVA Barrier gas/beer line.

EDIT: Here's the link to the fitment thread I was referring. Chest Freezer Specs And Layouts

 

[ChiknNutz]

I wouldn't worry about dual pressure outputs. Just get a good Taprite primary regulator and split the output to two grey QDs. I highly recommend using 4mm ID EVA barrier tubing for both liquid and gas along with the appropriate Push (Duotight) fittings.

Was just going over this again and I may need secondary gauges unless I am not understanding it all correctly. This is based on my plan to have a stout or porter along with a summer ale or wheat beer. Based on the charts and formulas referenced, they each require very different pressures, given they will be served at the same temp. My assumption is that the pressure you carbonate at is also the serving pressure, otherwise you will alter the CO2 dilution over time from where you want it to be...is that generally correct? The main variable seems to be the line length (and/or hose diameter).