REALLY Cleaning the inside of the Ball Lock Disconnect?

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cannman

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I think I'm getting an underline infection with a sulfur generating organism in transferring the beer from keg to glass. I 100% disassembled my Perlick 650SS (man, there's a lot of parts!) and soaked it in a solution of PBW for about 8 hours, scrubbed each little part, and then soaked it in Starsan for a half hour. I replaced the lines and soaked the ball disconnect with the parts above.

But due to the pressure created by the stem, I found it near impossible to clean the inside effectively.

My next tapped keg ended up with the same Sulfur issue after about 3-5 days...

How can I clean my Ball Lock Disconnect??? I have a feeling the bug is now nested inside my ball lock disconnect and need to get rid of it. If I just soak the ball lock, the pressure will prevent the pbw from getting into the interior of the lock. Need some help here.

Thanks.
 

johngaltsmotor

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Fill an empty keg with some starsan solution, apply enough pressure to make it flow, then hook up a hose with a tap. Fill the hose with starsan by opening the tap and everything from the bottom of the dip tube to the tap will be in contact with the starsan, including the internals of the disconnect.
Or I'm pretty sure if you're having a problem it might just be easiest to spend the $6 to get a new disconnect.
 

BrewerBrad82

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There is a flat head screw slot in the top of the disconnect. Stick a big screwdriver in it and thread it out. Inside of the disconnect you will find a poppet-style valve, a spring, and a small gasket that seals the threaded part into the main body. Soak all the parts in PBW, rinse thoroughly, and sanitize. Reassemble and you are good to go.

 
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cannman

cannman

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Fill an empty keg with some starsan solution, apply enough pressure to make it flow, then hook up a hose with a tap. Fill the hose with starsan by opening the tap and everything from the bottom of the dip tube to the tap will be in contact with the starsan, including the internals of the disconnect.
Or I'm pretty sure if you're having a problem it might just be easiest to spend the $6 to get a new disconnect.

However, if there are colonies sticking on the surface, this will not be effective. You can not sanitize something that is dirty, it must be cleaned first. Even if I use PBW in this method, I can't be sure everything will be touch because when the pin is depressed to allow for flow, other surfaces within the lock are now no longer accessible.



Can yoju just replace the disconnect?
This is not the topic. Yes, it can be replaced, but I'm looking to learn how to clean the inside of a ball lock disconnect. :mug:
 

PlexVector

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There is a flat head screw slot in the top of the disconnect. Stick a big screwdriver in it and thread it out. Inside of the disconnect you will find a poppet-style valve, a spring, and a small gasket that seals the threaded part into the main body. Soak all the parts in PBW, rinse thoroughly, and sanitize. Reassemble and you are good to go.

and also the poppet o-ring removed if you think you have an infection.
 

dmcman73

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I usually fill a keg with boiled water/PBW mixture, apply pressure to the keg and run that through the lines in my kegerator, loosens everything up and cleans it all. I also use Beer line cleaner as well followed by Starsan.
 
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cannman

cannman

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and also the poppet o-ring removed if you think you have an infection.
I can't believe I never realized that the back groove was a tool insert...

so the threaded post doesn't come out?

How did you pry the gasket out on the part that meets the keg? (WAIT, IS there a gasket in there? I can't tell...
 
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cannman

cannman

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Not sure I follow. the little o-ring?
*sigh* i put my old my glasses on and discovered that there is no gasket on the keg side... AND THEN it occurred to me that the gasket is on the keg post... sheesh... I need a beer. THEN I'll think straight...:tank:

YUP. DEF some funk in this post. Into PBW it goes!
 

johngaltsmotor

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There is a flat head screw slot in the top of the disconnect. Stick a big screwdriver in it and thread it out. Inside of the disconnect you will find a poppet-style valve, a spring, and a small gasket that seals the threaded part into the main body. Soak all the parts in PBW, rinse thoroughly, and sanitize. Reassemble and you are good to go.

I could never get mine apart. The one time I tried that the threads were so tight (or glued or something) that the top of the main body chipped out a chunk and I had to buy a new one so I figured they were non-serviceable. :smack:
 
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cannman

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As an update, I've taken apart all of my ball lock disconnects and THEY WERE FILTHY. I rinsed them out before sending them into the hot PBW and after an hour, the PBW needed to be changed. I took a pipe cleaner to the ports, and a soft brush to the mini pieces. After a hot water rinse, into Sanstar for 15 minutes to soak before being placed back into service. I'll let you know if this solved the sulfur funk tomorrow (time to test).
 

iijakii

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How hard was it to reassembly everything? Anytime i take small stuff with springs out I end up putting them back together wrong :drunk:

Also this thread needs to be posted in all of those "kegging is so much easier!" threads <3
 
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cannman

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How hard was it to reassembly everything? Anytime i take small stuff with springs out I end up putting them back together wrong :drunk:

Also this thread needs to be posted in all of those "kegging is so much easier!" threads <3

It was pie. Easy cheesy. No dexterity necessary.

Funk In the keg has been greatly reduced. Hope it will be gone with a caustic rinse when the keg kicks.
 

mkyl428

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I think I'm getting an underline infection with a sulfur generating organism in transferring the beer from keg to glass. I 100% disassembled my Perlick 650SS (man, there's a lot of parts!) and soaked it in a solution of PBW for about 8 hours, scrubbed each little part, and then soaked it in Starsan for a half hour. I replaced the lines and soaked the ball disconnect with the parts above.

But due to the pressure created by the stem, I found it near impossible to clean the inside effectively.

My next tapped keg ended up with the same Sulfur issue after about 3-5 days...

How can I clean my Ball Lock Disconnect??? I have a feeling the bug is now nested inside my ball lock disconnect and need to get rid of it. If I just soak the ball lock, the pressure will prevent the pbw from getting into the interior of the lock. Need some help here.

Thanks.
I know this is an old thread, but I just saw it in research while about to assemble my kegerator you say you have 650ss faucets, these are the faucets I am about to put on my kegerator build, and I am curious if you are aware of the sulfur smell associated with these faucets

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=528823
 

crowmanz

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I'd say it is from the 650ss, I haven't noticed any issue in mine but I only serve beers.

This is the 3rd or 4th thread I've seen recently, in the various homebrew forums I'm on, with this same issue raised.
 

PlexVector

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I'm building a keezer and have been looking at the 650SS and 630SS and have noticed that sometimes the 650SS is less expensive. This may be why possibly? I was leaning to the 650SS and now a little concerned for the long term.
 

augiedoggy

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However, if there are colonies sticking on the surface, this will not be effective. You can not sanitize something that is dirty, it must be cleaned first. Even if I use PBW in this method, I can't be sure everything will be touch because when the pin is depressed to allow for flow, other surfaces within the lock are now no longer accessible.





This is not the topic. Yes, it can be replaced, but I'm looking to learn how to clean the inside of a ball lock disconnect. :mug:
Despite what you have read...in the real world, this DOES normally work to disinfect and maintain these without disassembling them, The force of the starsan moving through them dislodges anything large enough to not be sanitized... of course if they have been out of use and sitting a while all bets are off because who knows whats kind of mold took hold and grew by then.
 
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