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You have some flexibility here. The only thing you want to make sure of is that fermentation is done. At 9 days, assuming it is done fermenting, yes, you can throw the dry hops in. How long you leave them in is really up to you.

Personally, I dry hop for 5 or 6 days. I haven't dry hopped longer but I've heard you can get grassy flavors. Some people fight that though and say they don't get grassy flavors.

Have you taken a gravity reading to see if it's done?
 
Well bubbling has stopped but my FV lid swells still so I think it's still fermenting then but at a slower rate? I'm using a blow off tube due to lack of space.

I haven't taken a gravity reading and am unsure of the best way to get the beer out of the FV to take one, even if I did I am still unsure what my final reading should be as the recipie didn't specify?
20181012_081109.jpg
 
You might want to check your blowoff tube isn't pinched or clogged if your lid is bulging like that. It is a sign you have (or had) way more pressure than you should, and could be a big mess waiting to happen.

Bulging lid, lack of bubbles, etc, isn't a reliable indicator that fermentation is done - the only way to know for sure is with gravity readings, taken a couple days apart. If they are the same, fermentation is complete, if not, give it a couple more days and sample again.

For taking the sample, when I used a bucket, it was as simple as sanitizing my hand and a cylinder and carefully dipping it in (trying to keep my fingers out as much as possible). You can also use a sanitized turkey baster to pull enough liquid for a sample, or pick up a Wine Thief, they work fairly well but with buckets you may not get enough depending how wide the bucket is (not enough depth for a big sample).

As for final gravity, you should have taken a starting gravity (original gravity). Multiply this by the average attenuation for your yeast and you'll get an approximate final gravity. If you don't know it, post the kit name and maybe someone has some old notes that can give you an idea. Based on the color and a wild guess, I'd say you should finish 1.008 to 1.012, but the yeast is done when it tells you it is done :)

EDIT: The link you posted says expect a FG to 1.011 :)
 
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So, the only way to really know if fermentation is over is 2 consecutive gravity readings spaced out over 2 or 3 of days. If it's the same, you are probably done.

My advice would be this: unless you're in a hurry for the beer, give it 2 full weeks to ferment (14 days) and then add your dry hops. At two weeks you should be done fermenting. Once you add the dry hops, let it sit for however long you want. Like I said, I usually do 5-6 days.
 
I have been checking on it daily and have found that the pressure has been decreasing. I have been gently pressing on the lid and the gasses just bubble out so I know that I should be ok and thus far everything has been ok. I would assume that I am still fermenting at present then...

Would I be safer getting a wine theif do you guys think? I really don't want to get a infection! I stuck my nose to the blow off bottle earlier and gave gue lid a press and it is smelling lovely!! Super excited!:ban:
Cool I have the OG and I will look up the specs of my yeast! :)

I'm not in a massive hurry or anything just really excited lol I can't wait to get it bottled and try it.

That's another question.... Should I Google the standard priming sugar measurement for the amount of beer I have when I go to bottle or should I not prime it? Again the recipie doesn't say... I probably should have chosen something with a little more info...
 
Use this calculator - but err on the side of going light, and definitely don't rush into bottles, or you'll end up with bottle bombs.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

If you have to press to remove the pressure, you definitely have too much restriction in your blowoff tube, or too much water covering the end of the tube - a half inch is enough, otherwise the pressure can't release.
 
I like this priming calculator honestly. It's easy to use and for the one batch I primed and bottled, it worked well for me. If you need help using it, let us know.

In regards to pulling a sample, I used a turkey baster for the longest time to pull samples. As long as you clean it and sanitize it, you'll be fine. This stage of the game, you can't be too clean or too sanitary. If you're not sure, sanitize again for a couple of minutes. I'm neurotic when it comes to sanitizing.

If you have a turkey baster, I'd probably use that.

And by the way...

upload_2018-10-19_14-26-37.png

This tells you your estimated FG. Granted, this is only an estimate and different things come into play that can affect this, but this can be used as a guideline. If you pull a sample and see you're at 1.020, you know you've got a little bit to go yet before fermentation is complete.
 
I just bought a turkey baster. Sanitize whatever you use. I personally wouldn't stick my hand in but I'm finicky.

Priming sugar is really easy. Look up any number of calcs. Aaaannnnd I see you've gotten two such answers while I type.
 
Guys you have been mega helpful!

I am going to hold off on dry hopping, get a turkey baster, do a couple of gravity readings and then dry hop.

As long as I hit the target gravity will I be safe against bottle bombs?
 
Nobody can answer that with certainty, as yeast is a living thing and will do what it does when and how it does it. But let it ride a couple weeks and measure a good 2-3-4 days between two measurements and you can be comfortable knowing it's done.
 
You could still have bottle bombs if you way over prime, but realistically, as long as you accurately measure out your priming sugar, and GENTLY stir the beer after filling every 4 or 5 bottles with a SANITIZED spoon (this helps ensure even mixture of priming solution), you should be fine.
 
Hi guys, so I took my gravity reading last night and from what I can make out I am at 1.013... what you think?
Screenshot_20181023-191826.jpg

It still seems to be fermenting, like I checked on it this morning and the lid had a swell to it (not really bad but you can tell it is producing).

So I will take another reading tomorrow or should I leave it longer?

Also if the FG goes lower than 1.011 I have read the beer will beer will be a bit drier and I would basically receive a higher ABV, am I correct in thinking it wouldn't cause any issues?
 
Take a reading tomorrow - if it is the same, take one the day after to make sure. Finishing a bit lower than 1.011 won't make it that dry. I've had a few finish under 1.010 and weren't noticeably dry. Yooper's Fizzy Yellow Beer seems to like to finish (for me) around 1.008-1.010, and it tastes fine.

Keep in mind, after fermentation is complete, the beer will continue to offgas for a bit. A bulging lid isn't necessarily proof of fermentation, just proof that pressure is building faster than the blowoff is allowing it to escape.

Also, be sure to read your hydrometer at the top of the meniscus, not the bottom. That almost looks to me like you're around 1.012, but the angle makes it difficult to say for sure.
 
Cool, that's good to know.

Yeah, once I have this batch bottled I am going to have a look at my airlock grommet, I have gotten away with it this time but it could go horribly wrong the next. I plan to get a plastic 90 bend to plug into the lid and then plug the blow off pipe into that, it should fix the problem.... I hope!

I will take another reading later on today and again on Friday as you suggested. Should I wait until Friday to dry hop or shall I just chuck it in now as the gravity is that low?

So I measure the gravity from the edges of the test tube not from the centre where the hydrometer is?
 
I use a larger gauge tubing that is reinforced to help prevent line kinks. The first tubing I looked at kept collapsing on itself.

If your gravity is the same after your second reading, toss the hops in. Then, a couple days before bottling take one more - if the gravity hasn't changed, you're good to bottle. If it has changed, wait 2 days and read it again.

There should be a little meniscus around the hydrometer too - have a look at this picture. It isn't the easier to see, but if you zoom in.

hydro_meniscus.png
 
I have just this moment, taken my reading and as far as I can see it has changed again..
IMG_20181024_191830.jpg

If you compare this to the first it is more on the line for sure, I know it's a slightly different camera angle but I have had a damn good look and the reading looks more 1.012 than it did before...
 
One man's opinion here, but you are 12 days in.
Give it another week without another thought.
Then dry hop 5-6 days, without another thought.
Go on a hike. Build a trebuchet in your backyard. Compose a haiku about navel lint.

Then bottle it.
 
One man's opinion here, but you are 12 days in.
Give it another week without another thought.
Then dry hop 5-6 days, without another thought.
Go on a hike. Build a trebuchet in your backyard. Compose a haiku about navel lint.

Then bottle it.
Haha I think that is sound advice! :bravo:

I will just leave it be now and test it again on Monday and then again on Wednesday.
 
I think you're supposed to read the bottom of the meniscus around the hydrometer. Ref https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/how-to-take-an-accurate-hydrometer-reading/

Interesting - the hydro's I have say to read at the top. Not sure, maybe you have one of those Yankee thermometers that uses a different system of measurement than the rest of the world :D

I guess the lesson here is check your hydrometer with distilled water and see where 1.000 reads - top or bottom of the meniscus. :)
 
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