Quick Disconnect Sources??

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kmlavoy

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MNBugeater: it seems like at least a few people on this thread are using, maybe not yours, but quick disconnects on a recirc type system. Was it the disconnects that were the issue as far as clogging goes, or was it maybe something else? I only ask, as I've had some issues with lautering due to compacting the grain bed. I'll get the SS versions, if it's worth it, but it doesn't seem, from the outside, that stainless vs. poly would cause clogs. If I'm wrong on that point, please let me know.
 

Lil' Sparky

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I think MNBugeater's problem with the QDs is that the ones he uses aren't fully open. They've got a shut-off for when they're removed and it can get clogged with grain.
 

MNBugeater

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It isnt a polysulfone vs. steel issue. Its a design issue. The CPC polysulfone quick-connects have a cross hair pattern that is NEEDED on the auto-shutoff valves so that it opens the plunger inside the body side of the connection. I have since switched to the straight thru, but for some reason they still put that crosshair pattern in the valve, presumably for structure or since they already have the mold so I suppose Its a cheaper manufacturing process to make all of them like that.

But this cross hair pattern catches rouge pieces of grain and clogs.

So I'm looking for a stainless quick connect not necessarily as an alternative to polysulphone, which I really like by the way, but so that I have more open/high flow connection to avoid the clogging.
 

MNBugeater

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You CAN drill out the cross hairs as long as both connecting pieces, the body and and the insert, are both straight thru. But if the body is shutoff and the insert in drilled out, then of course it wont open the valve.

I don't have any straight thru bodies so I have not been able to attempt this. Its the cross hair that is the problem anyway.

So, im off to find a steel quick connect with a sleeve style connection.
 

billtzk

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Fastenal is another source for the MC300 series coolant mold quick disconnect sleeves and plugs. They are same Tomco brand as the ones sold by McMaster Carr.

Check to see if you have a Fastenal near you. It might be more convenient and faster to pick them up locally than having to have them shipped from McMaster Carr. Prices are roughly the same as MC.

3/8"x1/2" Hose Straight Stem Brass Mold Couplers same as McMaster Carr part 6739k64.
3/8"x1/2"Hose 90 Deg Brass Mold Couplers same as McMaster Carr part 6739k68.
3/8"x1/2"NPTF Male Brass Non-Valved Mold Plugs same as McMaster Carr part 6739k59.

They also sell the 3/8"x1/2" push-on variety that MC doesn't sell, and they are not that much more expensive. Matter of fact, the push on types are in stock and the standard pull-back types are not.

They may have the o-rings too. They have a large inventory of sizes.
 

Lil' Sparky

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Just make sure you understand the deal. I contacted mcmaster about some other defective parts and they sent replacements right out. 2 months later I get a call from their collections dept saying I owe. After a while, I realized it was because they expected me to ship back the defective one but never said anything about it.
You were right. I got a bill. BTW - this was their email offering to send me a new one? Isn't it clear how they were offering to let me PURCHASE a new one? Haha.

Clint,

We are unable to provide replacement sleeves for this item. However, if one of the seals needs to be replaced, we can ship a replacement pack of these couplings. Please provide your shipping address.

Reed
McMaster-Carr
 

billtzk

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Oh well. Something that sounds too good to be true often is.
 

bludrgn

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Just a question for you brutus builder how did you solve your fittings for the T connector to the pots? My wells are 2.5" long if that makes a difference.
 

MNBugeater

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Just a question for you brutus builder how did you solve your fittings for the T connector to the pots? My wells are 2.5" long if that makes a difference.
What is it you are trying to solve?

I did go through a few revisions of the "T" assembly with the thermowell. The 2.5" should work fine. It won't interfere with the ball valve. The issue I had at first was the diameter of the well itself. It was near a perfect fit inside the "T". Too perfect. It restricted flow as well as caused clogs. I ended up getting a smaller diameter well and that made all the difference. But the 2.5" length is fine.
 

bludrgn

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Ok then what is the best way to set up the T connection from the pots to the disconnects. I have decided to use a nipple to join the T to the HLT since this unit is only going to be used it that pot. However the T for the mash tun also needs to be able to move to the Boil kettle to measure the temps will chilling. I suspose I could get two sets of the more beer QDs just for that purpose and use the others on the rest of the joints but is there a better way? My wells have a .260" stem bore so I am worried about the amount of flow from the 1/4" open in the female QD.
 

brewjunky

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Look for Pressure Washing Suppliers. We use those things daily in steel, brass, and SS. Available in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2". We use Viton O rings for 220°F at 300psi, so they should suffice for any beer service.

Budget QC's at PressureTek
Budget in SS
Budget in brass


Better quality QC's at PressureTek
Better in SS
Better in Brass




Yes, but they are less commonly available. Ask for a Double Shut Off QC.



$10.00?!?. I'd keep looking or adapt down to 3/8". A 3/8" female brass QC will only cost cost you about $2 in brass and $3.75 in stainless.
Those QD look like a great deal I just wish they had them with 1/2 FPT with 3/8 I have to by Adapters for all my male connections
 

bull8042

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I know the polysulfone connectors have already been mentioned here and they are a little more expensive. But if anyone is still interested in using them, here is the best prices and selection I have found. I have bought a lot from them and am very satisfied. Usually takes a week before they ship, just to be forewarned.
QuickCouplings
 

Philip1993

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Those QD look like a great deal I just wish they had them with 1/2 FPT with 3/8 I have to by Adapters for all my male connections
Search around. 1/2" is available, but it's not as common because they are generally not used for machines less than 10gpm.
 

brewjunky

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I know the polysulfone connectors have already been mentioned here and they are a little more expensive. But if anyone is still interested in using them, here is the best prices and selection I have found. I have bought a lot from them and am very satisfied. Usually takes a week before they ship, just to be forewarned.
QuickCouplings
Which series and size did you buy. There are a lot of different ones on that site
 

billtzk

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Ok then what is the best way to set up the T connection from the pots to the disconnects. I have decided to use a nipple to join the T to the HLT since this unit is only going to be used it that pot. However the T for the mash tun also needs to be able to move to the Boil kettle to measure the temps will chilling. I suspose I could get two sets of the more beer QDs just for that purpose and use the others on the rest of the joints but is there a better way? My wells have a .260" stem bore so I am worried about the amount of flow from the 1/4" open in the female QD.
I don't use a T-connection on my HLT because I had a spare 1/2 inch coupling on the side of my HLT that wasn't otherwise employed. My thermowell for the HLT is six inches long, so it extends about 5 inches into the HLT. The temp probe is removable from the thermowell, but the thermowell is permanently installed in the HLT.

My thermowells have a 1/2 inch outside diameter, so I couldn't use a 1/2 inch T for the MLT ball valve. Even the short 2.5 inch thermowell I bought for my MLT would block the 1/2 inch T inlet and not allow adequate fluid flow. So I used the 1/2 by 1/2 by 3/4 T. The T is connected to a 3/4 close nipple, and then a 3/4 by 1/4 bell coupling, then a 1/4 close nipple, and finally a 3/8th female QD sleeve to attach to the male QD nipple that is screwed into my MLB ball valve. The outer 1/2 inch port on the T is where the thermowell is installed. The bottom 1/2 inch port has another male QD nipple on it so I can attach the pump hose. The 3/4 end of the T with the extra length provided by the 3/4 close nipple and 3/4 by 1/4 bell coupling leaves plenty of room for the thermowell without impeding the fluid flow.
 

bull8042

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Which series and size did you buy. There are a lot of different ones on that site
HFC24835 - 1/2" NPT insert
HFC17835 - 1/2" Hose Barb Body
HFCD17835 - 1/2" Hose Barb Body with shutoff valve

The "insert" is the male portion of the disconnect and the "body" is the female side. I love these things. I know they are a bit more expensive than the brass, but they don't get as hot when flowing hot liquids and they are available with every configuration you could want. Plus, this is what I started with and I want everything to be interchangeable.
 

BklynCyclone

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Between PressureTek, McMaster, and Bargain Fittings I pulled together an all stainless steel set of quick connects for about $15.50 a set.

McMaster Stainless 1/2" to 3/8" bushing: $3 ea
PressureTek QCs (3/8" stainless NPT): $4.07 (Female) $1.92 (Male w/ 3/8" MPT)
Bargain Fittings: 3/8" stainless NPT to 1/2" Hose Barb: $6.50

The 3/8" NPT is a pain doubled the cost, but still, $15.50 is pretty good. Furthermore, the inside of the 1/2" hose barb is the tightest diameter, so nothing is more constricted than this.

I paired this all with Northern Brewer's 1/2" ID Thermoplastic tubing and will have (2) 8' and (1) 4' hose built for less than $80 all in (including hose clamps and bushings to adapt to my 1/2" FPT ball valves.
 
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