Quick Disconnect Sources??

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Lil' Sparky

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McMaster has some brass ones that are much less expensive. Do a search for 6739K59. That'll get you to the right page.

They're $5.75 for the female w/ 3/8" hose barb, and $1.75 for the male w/ 1/2" threads.
 
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Bsquared

Bsquared

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Lil' Sparky said:
McMaster has some brass ones that are much less expensive. Do a search for 6739K59. That'll get you to the right page.

They're $5.75 for the female w/ 3/8" hose barb, and $1.75 for the male w/ 1/2" threads.
Thanks a lot, that was exactly what I have been looking for!
 
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Bsquared

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Wow those got here quick! thats a great resource. I guess it because I am in southern California, but I ordered them Monday afternoon and had them here at work by mid morning...

Looks like they are going to work great. :mug:
 

Chriso

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Good to hear - I plan on switching to those McMaster brass disco's soon too, they look REALLY nice!

Let us know how install goes! :D
 

jcryan2

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Has anyone located threaded female disconnects like those shown with blank lines on the McMaster page just under the 6739K64s? (McMaster doesn't stock them and doesn't have a source)

My thinking is along the lines of a previous poster to have male QDs on the fixed points and female QDs on the hose lines. I'm building Lonnie's Brutus 10. To connect the T to the kettles would use a threaded female connected to the T with a 1 1/2" nipple.

Or how about a double sided female coupling? That would work if you had a male QD on the T.

Thoughts anyone?
 

GilaMinumBeer

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I use US Plastics polysulfone varieties. They are rated up to 400*F, IIRC.

Any size and type you could want. Excepting Female threaded. I had to go with an adapter to Female Garden Hose Threads but, it worls like a charm.

They are cheap enough, IMO, that it's worth it to have a few extras just in case you break one.
 

conpewter

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I went with the McMaster brass ones and I absolutely love them. I used the system with them for the first time on Sunday and it was very simple. During the mash I pumped sanitizer from my basement up through all the lines through the CFC and into the kettle. Used a ball-valve in the basement to keep all the sanitizer in the lines (and of course shut off the one on the keggle and dumped the sanitizer) so that during the whole boil everything was filled with sanitizer. After I was done it was very quick to just dismantle everything and put it away. (Building a brew rig someday...)
 

jcryan2

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I have had no luck in finding a brass version of this stainless quick disconnect available at morebeer.com. I talked with the folks at McMaster and they can't help and I haven't found one at Grainger either.

I'll keep looking but if anyone else has an idea or two I'd appreciate a link.

Thanks...

ss disconnect.jpg
 

Bobby_M

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Mcmaster's pages are not linkable, search for:

6739K59
Straight Through Coolant Hose Coupling Plug, 1/2" NPTF Male, 3/8" Coupling Size
In stock at $1.75 Each

6739K64
Straight Through Coolant Hose Coupling Sleeve-Lck Sckt X Barb for 1/2" Hose ID, 3/8" Cplg Sz
In stock at $6.01 Each


If you're into all stainless and higher flow (the nipples have 1/2" ID instead of 3/8" like the ones above:

6543K45
High Flow Straight Through Hose Coupling 303 SS Plug, 1/2" NPTF Male, 1/2" Coupling Size
In stock at $20.63 Each

6543K35
High Flow Straight Through Hose Coupling 303 SS Sleeve-Lck Socket, 1/2" NPTF Fem, 1/2" Cplg Sz
In stock at $44.57 Each

Way too pricey for those though.
 

conpewter

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These are what I used in my system

6739K59 1/2" NPTF male pipe thread coolant hose quick disconnect 1.75(Page 277) #3
6739K64 1/2" NPTF female coolant hose quick disconnect (straight) 6.01 (Page 277) #1
6739K68 1/2" NPTF female coolant hose quick disconnect (90 degree) 7.44 (page 277) #1

Just go to McMaster.com and put in the part number in the search, that'll get you to the right page.
 

jcryan2

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I've bought both the 673K59 and 673K64 QDs as well. It is the connection between the kettle and the T in Lonnie's Brutus 10 I'm trying to solve. (Lonnie went with female QDs on the kettle and I went the reverse with the female QDs on the hoses.) I need a male 1/2" NPT into the kettle and T and this stainless fits the bill perfectly other than the cost. A brass alternative should be in the ten buck range if I could find one.
 

Philip1993

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jcryan2 said:
I have had no luck in finding a brass version of this stainless quick disconnect available at morebeer.com. I talked with the folks at McMaster and they can't help and I haven't found one at Grainger either.
Look for Pressure Washing Suppliers. We use those things daily in steel, brass, and SS. Available in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2". We use Viton O rings for 220°F at 300psi, so they should suffice for any beer service.

Budget QC's at PressureTek
Budget in SS
Budget in brass


Better quality QC's at PressureTek
Better in SS
Better in Brass


Gumby1974 said:
Do they make these with a valve in them so you wont lose liquid when disconnectng?
Yes, but they are less commonly available. Ask for a Double Shut Off QC.

jcryan2 said:
A brass alternative should be in the ten buck range if I could find one.
$10.00?!?. I'd keep looking or adapt down to 3/8". A 3/8" female brass QC will only cost cost you about $2 in brass and $3.75 in stainless.
 

Brickhouse

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Does anyone know whether McMaster part no 6543K45 would be compatible with the Morebeer quick disconnects linked above? I bought some from Morebeer and I need some more. They sure look like the high flow couplings. But Morebeer says they are 304 SS not 303.
 

Lil' Sparky

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I need to replace the o-ring in one of my disconnect sleeves. Anyone got an idea where to order them? I didn't see any specific information on McMaster's website, but I may give them a call.
 

billtzk

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Lil' Sparky, those disconnects from MC are compatible with Parker Moldmate series. You might check with Parker (I found them via google) to see if replacement o-rings are available. I bet they are.

Meanwhile, can anyone tell me if the barb fitting at the back of the female disconnects can be removed? For example, on 6739K64 1/2" NPTF female coolant hose quick disconnect (straight), is it possible to unscrew the barb off of the disconnect? And is it 1/2 inch NPT or NPTF if so?

Finally, has anyone tried using the high flow parts like these? The plugs and the sockets come in male and female genders so you can adapt easily to whatever you have, male or female NPT fittings, without additional connectors. You can add the brass barbs. It works out to be about twice as expensive as the other fittings that everyone is using, but it has some advantages. They seals are Buna-N and are only rated to 250 degrees, not as good as the silicone seals in the coolant disconnects, but still usable.

5346K25 Brass Barbed Hose Fitting Barb X Male Pipe for 1/2" Hose ID, 1/2" Pipe
6537K93 High Flow Straight Through Hose Coupling Brass Plug, 1/2" NPTF Male, 1/2" Coupling Size
6537K13 High Flow Straight Through Hose Coupling Brass Plug, 1/2" NPTF Female, 1/2" Coupling Size
6537K65 High Flow Straight Through Hose Coupling Brass Sleeve-Lck Socket, 1/2" NPTF Male, 1/2" Cplg Sz
6537K75 High Flow Straight Through Hose Coupling Brass Sleeve-Lck Socket, 1/2" NPTF Fem, 1/2" Cplg Sz
 

Bobby_M

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I have never tried unthreading the barbs but I THINK the do come out. Sparky, have you tried a keg post Oring in the fitting? I have some #111 rings in silicone if the size is right.

A note on the high flow thing... I don't know of any operation in brewing that requires such a high flow. Liquid moves so fast that I usually have to throttle it back. During chilling, the CFC/Plate chiller is always going to be the restrictive point. Get the cheaper QDs.
 

Lil' Sparky

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Bobby, those seals aren't round o-rings. There kind of flat sleeves that fit in there and seal around the plug. I don't know if round o-rings would work or not. I kind of doubt they would work as intended.
 

billtzk

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Bobby, it's not for the high flow rate that I would consider those more expensive QDs. It's for the same reason that jcryan2 mentioned in post #13.

I have a thermowell in a 1/2 inch pipe T that I want to connect to the mash tun valve via QD. It can't be attached to a barb, obviously. If the barb on the female socket will unscrew and if the fitting is 3/8th or 1/2 inch NPT or NPST, then I can adapt it to the temperature probe pipe T fitting.

If the barb won't unscrew and/or the threads aren't NPT or NPST, then I'd be forced to use an incompatible QD on the mash tun valve, and I'd rather avoid that.

I may have a solution anyway. These fittings are supposed to be compatible with Parker Moldmate also, just like the compatible ones that MC sells, but they are a lot more expensive: Industrial Mold Coolant Quick Disconnects - they have male and female plugs and they have sockets with and without barbs. They are more expensive, but I'd only need some of the female plugs that MC doesn't sell, and one of the female pipe thread sockets.
 

Bobby_M

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Bobby, those seals aren't round o-rings. There kind of flat sleeves that fit in there and seal around the plug. I don't know if round o-rings would work or not. I kind of doubt they would work as intended.
When I initially looked at these, I thought that the seal was made on the face of the male plug. I'm not saying I know an Oring would work, but it's probably worth a try since they're readily available.
 

kmlavoy

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Stupid question: I see a lot of discussion about using quick disconnects, but I don't see where I would use them in my own brewing setup. Everyone raves about them. What are they for?
 

billtzk

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They are used to make quick connections between valves and pumps and plate chillers, etc., on an advanced brew rig. Search for one of the Brutus 10 threads and check out the pictures and you'll see. Korndog, Bobby M, Chimone, Mrbowenz, and quite a few other people have posted pics in threads and in their galleries that will help clarify the use of these quick disconnects. Once you see what they can do for you, you'll want them too. Also, look at the moer advanced commercially available brew rigs like the ones that More Beer and Sabco sell for more examples.

Here is a good thread -- Brutus Ten ???? -- You'll have to go through quite a few pages to get to the pics. But it's worth it.
 

billtzk

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Marco Rubber might be able to help you with those Moldmate seals Sparky if you give them a call.

Did either of you have a chance to look at one of your coollant sockets and see if the barb is removable?
 

Lil' Sparky

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Thanks for another possible source. I'll check it out.

The barb on the female sleeve is removable. I'm not certain on the thread size, but I think it's 3/8 NPT.

BTW - McMaster has sleeves with threaded connections. Check out part #6536K23 or 6536K22.
 

billtzk

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Thanks for another possible source. I'll check it out.

The barb on the female sleeve is removable. I'm not certain on the thread size, but I think it's 3/8 NPT. I can swing by the h/w store tomorrow and check for sure.
No need to check on that Sparky. Thank you. Now that I know it is removable I'm practically certain I can adapt it. It's unlikely to be a non-standard thread size. Now I'll just go ahead and order the parts from McMaster and save myself a bunch of money over the high flow series.
 

Lil' Sparky

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When I initially looked at these, I thought that the seal was made on the face of the male plug. I'm not saying I know an Oring would work, but it's probably worth a try since they're readily available.
Yep, I think you're right about how it seals. This is what the seals look like though. I doubt an o-ring would work. If I can't find a replacement, I can probably make this one work by just turning it around. This side is fine, so it should seal OK. The other side is really buggered up. I wish I knew how it happened so I can avoid it. If turning it around doesn't work, stuffing several o-rings in there may do the job.

DSCN3551.JPG
 

Lil' Sparky

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I wanted to post a follow-up on my seal problem. I emailed McMaster about a replacement seal. They said they don't have them, so they just sent a replacement QD. Apparently some businesses still know customer service. This was above and beyond IMO. Way to go, McMaster!
 

billtzk

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Indeed, McMaster Carr is great. I love dealing with them. And as you say, sending an entire replacement QD is above and beyond expectations.
 

Bobby_M

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Just make sure you understand the deal. I contacted mcmaster about some other defective parts and they sent replacements right out. 2 months later I get a call from their collections dept saying I owe. After a while, I realized it was because they expected me to ship back the defective one but never said anything about it.
 

billtzk

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Thanks for another possible source. I'll check it out.

The barb on the female sleeve is removable. I'm not certain on the thread size, but I think it's 3/8 NPT.
It turns out that the male barb threads and female socket are 1/4 inch NPST. A 1/4 inch NPT pipe nipple fits it very nicely.

BTW - McMaster has sleeves with threaded connections. Check out part #6536K23 or 6536K22.
Those are zinc-plated steel, and they are not the same shape plug as the Moldmate compatible 6739k64, k68, and k59. There are some brass ones that are similar, the high flow disconnects that I already discussed, but they are considerably more expensive than the 6739k64 coolant sockets. The easiest and cheapest solution, by far, is to use a 1/4 inch NPT close nipple to connect to a bell reducer to connect to the Tee via a pipe nipple. In fact, I did this today. It works great.
 
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Yep, I think you're right about how it seals. This is what the seals look like though. I doubt an o-ring would work. If I can't find a replacement, I can probably make this one work by just turning it around. This side is fine, so it should seal OK. The other side is really buggered up. I wish I knew how it happened so I can avoid it. If turning it around doesn't work, stuffing several o-rings in there may do the job.

View attachment 6970



Go to: http://www.couplers.com/catalog1.asp

They make these type couplers "FJT" series. According to the catalog the seals are lathe cut from silicone tubing.

You might be able to contact them for replacement seals or find out the size tubing and then make your own.

Hope this helps. :mug:
 

kmlavoy

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Okay, I'm sold on these things. Second question. When you're using them to drain the boil kettle, do you do anything specific as far as sanitation is concerned? Or just maybe spray some star-san in a few minutes before draining? I guess if you're using a counterflow chiller, you're running boiling wort through it, so it's probably not a concern, however, I have an immersion.

Also, pump related question (sorry if it turns into a major threadjack), I had planned on switching over to silicon tubing, but morebeer said something to the effect that it will burst at what seems like a pretty low psi. Should I be all that concerned?
 

MNBugeater

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Okay, I'm sold on these things.
Which ones are you sold on? There are about 4-5 different quick connects listed in this thread. I have the CPC Polysulphone and THOUGHT I was in love with them until I had so many clogs with grain. I'm not convinced they are well suited for a recirculating system.

I am looking for the stainless sets.
 

Philip1993

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When I initially looked at these, I thought that the seal was made on the face of the male plug. I'm not saying I know an Oring would work, but it's probably worth a try since they're readily available.
FWIW, those PW fittings are rated to 250*F and 4000psi. AND, they use std O-rings. But for high temp use, get the "buna" orings.
 

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