Questions about March Pumps answered by the Factory!

[day_trippr]

Don't be mislead by the 3/8" size...Its not translating to the opening....when it comes to pipe fittings, a 3/8" pipe thread has an outside diameter of just over 9/16".....if you got a 1/2" barb to a 3/8" male pipe thread fitting the pump wouldn't have any problems...it may choke a bit of the flow depending on your setup, but it should be ok.

With all due respect, that pretty much goes against everything your user guide says wrt providing a non-restricted path to the pump input. And who cares about the OD of a 3/8" pipe - it's the ID that counts, and a typical 3/8" brass npt pipe end has an ID of 1/4".

When the guide advise against having a 1/2" street elbow right at the pump inlet, it's hard to understand why you'd give your okey dokey to using a 3/8" pipe there...

Cheers!

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Were not talking about barb fittings though......i have a piece of 3/8" npt pipe on my desk and the ID is exactly .492"
I'd have to go and try to find some specs on brass fittings but they should be more or less the same as well...

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

here take a look, found this doing a quick search:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XOR7FU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/s-s-3-8-mpt-x-1-2-barb.html

they dont look too restrictive..

 

[nyer]

I have a march 809 hs that I bought from Austin Homebrew last April. I have used it about 6 times since I built my stand. During the last two brews I have noticed a low pitch squeeling and a rattling sound coming from the pump. It still pumps but is very annoying. I read on here about taking it apart and making sure that it was clean inside, so, I did that last night. When looking at the parts diagram it appears there should be a little washer between the impeller and housing. Mine doesn't have one and it's obvious that the impeller has been rubbing against the housing leaving some marks. I can turn the impeller by hand and cause the noise. I have to think that the washer was never there. I never ran it dry and it always pumped well. I would like to confirm that there is supposed to be a washer there and if so where do I get one?

 

[digitalhifi]

Walter, I have a few month old 815 from Morebeer and have been experiencing the same problem pumping boiling liquids as many other posters here. I took apart the head and found I don't have the thrust washer. How can I get one?

 

[rockytoptim]

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/MARCH-PUMP-THRUST-WASHER-P2925.aspx

 

[cscade]

Also, like Walter mentioned earlier in the thread, make sure you're not running the pump restricted on the input side in any way. That can cause it to chew up the thrust washer relatively quickly.

Walter, I have a few month old 815 from Morebeer and have been experiencing the same problem pumping boiling liquids as many other posters here. I took apart the head and found I don't have the thrust washer. How can I get one?

 

[cl330b]

Hi Walter, I just wanted to give you a big thanks for the help you have given me and for all of the questions you have been answering. We appreciate you here at HBT.

-cl330b

 

[digitalhifi]

I just wanted to say I got the new thrust washers and with them and the help of this thread, my pumping on brewday was smoother than ever!

 

[duckredbeard]

I'm looking for drawings that show dimensions and distances for the March 809 pump that MoreBeer sells as their H315 pump. I don't have the newer H315HF pump, but the older one.

I see on March's website that drawings are available, but there are many variants of the 809. What is March's full model number that is carried by MoreBeer as the H315?

I'm looking into making some kind of splashproof hood or housing for the pumps. I feel that I have gotten away with too many close calls when using water around those pumps on brew day. I don't want to hose them down at the wrong moment during a brew.

Edit: Found it...http://www.marchpump.com/809-pl-hs/

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

sorry guys for not replying lately....was on vacation last week...and the past month has been nothing but crazyness with one of our OEM's...they placed an order for close to 1000units of our 5.5 series pumps and want them on a crazy time frame so things have been off the hook here tyring to get things out the door. I'm sorry if i have not gotten back to anyone. Its usually easier to PM (the email notifies me) or email me direct @ wwojcik@ marchpump.com

 

[BigSally]

I've got a quick question.I've got an AC-3CP-MD and it's rated to only 190F.Would it be safe in an HLT/Herms up to 205F?

And BTW thanks for the info.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

mmmmm....well some people have used them at near boiling temps...it all depends on how long you expose it at those temps....few minutes "shouldnt" hurt things...
It would be easier for you to just change that pump head to the 3B thats made out of the polysulfone plastic that can handle up to 250*...it would be a bolt on swap

 

[prrriiide]

Walter,

Does March make a higher volume pump than the 815 that doesn't use larger fittings (higher pressure, even)? Or is the volume of the pump limited by the inlet/outlet size in combination with the HP rating?

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Walter,

Or is the volume of the pump limited by the inlet/outlet size in combination with the HP rating?

yep!

the only other pump we have that can do more pressure but not more volume would be our 320-CP-MD...it only does 3gpm but can make 17psi if theres enough restriction.

 

[BigSally]

mmmmm....well some people have used them at near boiling temps...it all depends on how long you expose it at those temps....few minutes "shouldnt" hurt things...
It would be easier for you to just change that pump head to the 3B thats made out of the polysulfone plastic that can handle up to 250*...it would be a bolt on swap

I'll see if I can find a 3B replacement head for it.Thanks so much for making yourself available for questions.

 

[mrjofus1959]

Hello Walter. Could you please confirm if all I need to convert my 815 PL-C to the SS version are the housing (0809-0150-0000) and the o-ring (0809-0165-1000)? Thanks, and great info from you!

 

[jscottAT4]

Hello Walter. Could you please confirm if all I need to convert my 815 PL-C to the SS version are the housing (0809-0150-0000) and the o-ring (0809-0165-1000)? Thanks, and great info from you!

If so, do you have a price for these items?

 

[mrjofus1959]

If so, do you have a price for these items?

The housings are $200 at http://www.tescopumps.com/servlet/StoreFront

The o-rings can be had for a couple bucks elsewhere. I didn't find them on the Tesco site.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Hello Walter. Could you please confirm if all I need to convert my 815 PL-C to the SS version are the housing (0809-0150-0000) and the o-ring (0809-0165-1000)? Thanks, and great info from you!

Yes those are the only two parts you would need to convert over to SS. I can only give you the list price for the parts...you would need to call any one of the distributors to get a price. ($250 housing $2 for o-ring list)

 

[mrjofus1959]

Yes those are the only two parts you would need to convert over to SS. I can only give you the list price for the parts...you would need to call any one of the distributors to get a price. ($250 housing $2 for o-ring list)

Thanks Walter!

 

[ricksox]

Hey Walter,

I hear it is not recommended to screw a ball valve directly onto the pump because you could damage the plastic threading etc. What kind of adapter should go between the pump and my ball valve? Thanks!

Rick

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Sorry for the late reply...for some reason i didnt get a notification of a new posting....anyway you can screw directly to the threads. Just put your fitting on the pump and start it in reverse first....when you feel the "click" of the leading edge of the threads just pass each other then you can start to put the fitting on normaly. Also we recomend a wrap or two of teflon tape for sealing...and hand tighten the fitting (not crazy tight but just tight) and then another 1/4 to 1/2 turn more with a wrench and you should be good to go.

 

[day_trippr]

subscribed although I can't believe all the iterations of this pump's questions haven't already been answered more than once... grin

You could say that about virtually every topic imaginable here.

It is what it is: 98% reruns

Cheers!

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

Yeah i know....I've been on a boating forum for over 13yrs now and most times its easier just to ask a new question then do a search for the answer.....biggest problem is when you try and search, unless you know how to word the search, you will get hundreds of results and most of which may have the key words you typed but probably have nothing to do with what you are looking for....

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

if you use a restricted fitting on the outlet side it wont hurt anything...you just wont get the full capacity out of the pump.....on the inlet side you could starve it and possibly even cavitate it. What you want to look for is a "full flow" fitting. they have bigger ID's to match the thread size closer....easiest thing you can do is set it up and run it with plain water and see how it works for you...if you are happy with the results you get, then have at it

 

[ricksox]

Sorry for the late reply...for some reason i didnt get a notification of a new posting....anyway you can screw directly to the threads. Just put your fitting on the pump and start it in reverse first....when you feel the "click" of the leading edge of the threads just pass each other then you can start to put the fitting on normaly. Also we recomend a wrap or two of teflon tape for sealing...and hand tighten the fitting (not crazy tight but just tight) and then another 1/4 to 1/2 turn more with a wrench and you should be good to go.

Thanks for the response. I was just mainly concerned about stripping the threading by screwing on say, a stainless fitting directly to the pump considering its plastic. I appreciate the info.


PS. I use the search function before I post anything on this forum.

 

[jcav]

Hey Walter, I just want to say that you conversing with us and posting answers on this thread has been so helpful to hundred's of home brewers here at HBT. It is such a great way for you and your company to be involved and go the extra. You don't see this level of customer service or satisfaction in the business world anymore. You have made me and I'm sure a slew of others loyal customers, as well as new customers looking to purchase the right pumps for their systems. Thanks again!

You Rock Brother! :rockin:

John

 

[Sacdan]

I am looking to buy a couple AC-3B or AC-5B. I have a couple 809s that don't pump well over 190°. Will they handle high temps better? Which model would you recommend?
.

 

[WalterAtMarchPump]

I am looking to buy a couple AC-3B or AC-5B. I have a couple 809s that don't pump well over 190°. Will they handle high temps better? Which model would you recommend?
.

If your having problems above 190* the first thing i would do is drill the impellers...they may be binding on the shafts when it heats up and they expand. Pass a 17/64" drill bit through the center and test it out on some hot water...also make sure the teflon thrust washer is still there.....if that doesnt work then send me back the pumps and we will test them out...they shouldnt have any problems with those temps...we have customers running then at up to 240* with no issues.....granted they are closed system and dont have any air in the system but they will still work.

If you are set on upgrading then i would have to ask how big a system you are planning on building. The AC-5B needs a min 3/4" line feeding it...so if your system doesnt have that then you wont get the full capacity of the pump either...