Question on IPA hopstand/whirlpool process

[MotoGP1000]

Hey all -

had a question on the process of hopstand/whirpool that I seemed to be getting confused on the more I read.

So my process to date has been: chill from flameout to 170 or just below. take out wort chiller. Add hops. put the lid on and let steep for 30- 45min. put wort chiller back in and chill to temp for yeast pitching

I'm wondering if the process should be or could be: flameout. put in worth chiller and start chilling. add hops at 170ish. keep the worth chiller going and cooling until the hops have had its 30/45 minutes of exposure? This would ensure the hops get exposure to a wide spectrum of temperatures. then of course end with chilling to yeast pitching temp, which wouldn't take long because the wort had been chilling the whole time.

Thoughts?

 

[Jag75]

When I whirlpool I keep at a set temp for 30 mins . Then I bring the temp down to pitching temps.

 

[Smellyglove]

You get less extraction the colder the wort is. Think about why one dryhop for a few days instead of 30 minutes. Especially without some form of stirring/agitation you get less oils effectively into the wort.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

hop oil boil off at different temps...that doesnt mean a 212 boil. THe "C" hops main oil...forget the name..boils off at 160 I believe. So when using those hops for say an IPA you want to be under 160 for full benefit of the hops.

My new method for IPA's is
Bitter hops (first hop) @5
The rest of the hops at around 155 letting the temp drop naturally over 45 minutes. Continue chilling to pitch temp

I stir while it steeps from time to time hopefully that helps with better fuller extraction

No hop bag just toss them in the fermenter then suck all the hop debris and trub into the fermenter.

Makes a nice smooth commercial type easy drinker IPA

 

[MotoGP1000]

hop oil boil off at different temps...that doesnt mean a 212 boil. THe "C" hops main oil...forget the name..boils off at 160 I believe. So when using those hops for say an IPA you want to be under 160 for full benefit of the hops.

My new method for IPA's is
Bitter hops (first hop) @5
The rest of the hops at around 155 letting the temp drop naturally over 45 minutes. Continue chilling to pitch temp

I stir while it steeps from time to time hopefully that helps with better fuller extraction

No hop bag just toss them in the fermenter then suck all the hop debris and trub into the fermenter.

Makes a nice smooth commercial type easy drinker IPA

I used to do loose hops but found weird off flavor from maybe my hops sitting in the fermenter? Almost like a medicinal taste. Could never really pinpoint it but bagging has seemed to help

 

[McKnuckle]

The only thing I'd change about your process is to not remove the wort chiller. I assume you initially put it in there at boiling temps to sanitize it, so don't reverse that benefit by removing it and then needing to re-sanitize it.

Chill to 175-180F, then shut off the water. Residual cooling will occur and most of your stand will end up at 170 or below. When finished, just resume chilling and move it to the fermenter when complete.

 

[logdrum]

I agree w McKnuckle, and will often do a 2-stage whirlpool; first charge @ 170ºF then a second charge @ 150ºF.

 

[SRJHops]

Echo most all of the above... Put wort chiller in with 10 minutes left in the boil, to sanitize it, then don't take it out until the wort is out of the kettle.

There's lots of debate/discussion about steep times and temps out there. But once you reach your steeping temp, turn off the chiller. 30 min steep is certainly good, though some people do shorter or longer.

Some folks add their first addition at flameout or 200 and steep for 10 mins, then drop down for another steep, usually longer. Lately I have been doing the first addition at 200, then dropping down to 175 for 30 mins.

 

[LostHopper]

Hey all -

had a question on the process of hopstand/whirpool that I seemed to be getting confused on the more I read.


Thoughts?

I think the reason it can be confusing is there are no hard and fast rules and no two homebrewers do it exactly the same way, although I'm pretty close to McKnuckle. I do a 140 addition/stand for some beers.

What I have gained from my reading/research, there are just some general principles depending on what you want from the hop stand.

 

[couchsending]

I used to do loose hops but found weird off flavor from maybe my hops sitting in the fermenter? Almost like a medicinal taste. Could never really pinpoint it but bagging has seemed to help

This is caused by the hops being in contact with a significant amount of yeast for too long of a period of time. By bagging them the hops aren’t coming in contact with the yeast cake sitting in the bottom of a fermenter.

If you have a way to dump yeast it’s always recommended to get as much of it out of the beer before adding dry hops.

Lowering your whirlpool temps below 180/170 is fine but is kind of a waste of time/energy. Yes myrcene volatilizes at 170 however is not very soluble in beer and virtually none of it remains in the beer after fermentation anyways. Easiest way to get it into the beer is by dry hopping. There are certain Hop oils that benefit from boiling.

No reason to put the lid on while whirlpooling until you get closer to 140. Definitely leave the lid off if you’re whirlpooling above 175.

 

[Smellyglove]

There are so many various temperatures on the internets regarding myrcene. But from own experience at 170F / 76C, it's long gone. You have to go lower in WP to keep it.

 

[jimdeasy]

Can I just ask...so if you have a whirlpool arm, and you spin the wort while at a certain specific temp and add hops, it’s called whirlpool hopping, if you don’t whirlpool it but stil drop to a specific temp and add hops it’s a hop stand. Both are the same kinda but one spins, one don’t. Yes?