I will attempt to explain what I want to do then the question. I have a 10 gallon cooler/false bottom for all grain. Mashing typically, 1.35 qts/lb. Value on mash tun to steel head pump inlet. Outlet of pump will have a throttle valve and a prime valve to relieve any air when starting the pump. All hoses will be 1/2" ID silicone. After throttle valve from pump line goes to a 25' stainless steel wort chiller coil in the hot liquor tank. The coil is 3/8". A camloc fitting will be installed on input and output of coil from 3/8" to 1/2". Output of coil 1/2" silicone to mash tun. Mash tun has a sparge installed through the top to rain on the mash for recirculation of wort. Question: Will I have any issues going from 1/2" lines to 3/8" stainless coil in HLT then back to 1/2" to mash tun? Next: Camloc fittings are for exchange from mash tun to valve output of HLT to sparge mash. By doing this it will allow me to get the wort out of the heat exchange coil and sparge. I thought 1/2" stainless or cu would be excessive dia hence requiring to much wort and starving pump. Comments welcome.
Question about HERMS/pump/lines
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jmcquesten
Well-Known Member
I recently built a HERMS setup very similar to what you're describing, only difference being I don't use a cooler for mash tun, I have a keggle. I read a lot saying you need 1/2" copper and at least 50' to be useful. I also didn't want that much wort sitting in the tubing and didn't think 50' of 1/2" was necessary. So against all my research, I used 20' of 3/8" copper (my options from the local big hardware store were 20' or 50'). I have been very happy with it for about 4 batches now. It might take a little longer to step up temperatures, but I've figured out that I just need to keep the water a little hotter to get there. I was able to bring my mash up about 5 degrees in around 10 minutes with some stirring. My pump didn't seem to mind the step down in size either. I use 1/2" silicone hose and stainless quick disconnects going to and from the 3/8 copper. I also have a male disconnect fitting installed at the top of my mash tun with a piece of 3/8 stainless tubing directing the return back to the top of the grain bed. No issues with restricting the flow on the output side of the pump, I even have to partially close my throttle valve (output of the pump) to slow it down a little. So yes, it will work. It might not be as efficient as if I had a bigger coil, but it does work pretty well for me. I should add that my system is not automated at all. I used a pump on a manually controlled switch, a therma-pen, and a propane burner.
Remember that it's super easy to get the 'lost' wort out of the coils- just switch over to the HLT that has a little water in it after the transfer, and run until the wort is clear (water). You're going to run water and cleaner through that stuff anyway, so you'll have some water handy. When I sparge, I just change the hoses around so my sparge water goes through my HERMS coil to clean it on the way to the MLT for sparging, and it ends up with just water in it.
I have a 25' CFC, and some tubing and pumps- and it's actually just ounces of wort that's caught in there, though. It seemed like a lot to me (that's why I started flushing with water) but it's really not much.
jmcquesten
Well-Known Member
That's exactly what I've been doing. After I drain my first runnings, I switch my hose from the fitting on the mash tun to the fitting on the lauter tun. It pumps the wort out in under a minute, then water helps clean the coil. Of course I run cleaner then sanitizer through when finished, then turn upside down to drain the coil. My coil is attached to the lauter tun by way of fittings.
MrNatural
The Original, beware of imposters.
This got me thinking, and wondering.
In the process of configuring plumbing on my 2-pump single tier EHERMS. I like the idea of swapping (or 3-way valve) MLT out with HLT out and running sparge water through HERMS coil. After the transfer is mentioned above and other poster talks about after first runnings. Why not just make one swap from the get-go and run everything through the coil from the start?
Also, I believe you primarily batch sparge. I intend to rig up a fly-sparge and wondered (a) how much heat loss would sparge encounter as 50' coil becomes exposed as HLT level drops? and (b) would small temp drop adversely affect the sparge anyway, especially if a mash-out was performed?
Appreciate any experiences or theory....................
I fly sparge on 1.5bbl HERMS system. Although a "fly sparge" for me takes 15 minutes instead of an hour.
All I do after mash out is swap hoses so my MT out goes to the BK and my HLT out goes to my HERMS in. So yes, I flush my HERMS coil with sparge water.
There is no wasted wort. I don't have to worry about cleaning my HERMS coils (if flushing 40 gallons of 170 degree water doesn't clean it, there's other issues) and there's no noticeable temp drop once the coil becomes exposed.
All I do after mash out is swap hoses so my MT out goes to the BK and my HLT out goes to my HERMS in. So yes, I flush my HERMS coil with sparge water.
There is no wasted wort. I don't have to worry about cleaning my HERMS coils (if flushing 40 gallons of 170 degree water doesn't clean it, there's other issues) and there's no noticeable temp drop once the coil becomes exposed.
In reply to others: I intend to switch from the coil to sparge water to get all the wort out of the coil. Also installing a 3 way valve on the herms pump for priming. I have asked others and there should be no issues with 1/2" to 3/8" and back to 1/2" into the mash tun. Buying a new 15 gal kettle with value, thermother, herms coil bulkheads, and also two bulkheads for water circulation with a second pump to maintain proper heat distribution. This will be a step up from manual. Buying a herms coil from highlander brewing and the kettle. They will fit it to the kettle. I will drill the kettle myself for the water circulation fittings. Thanks everyone. Cheers Gary
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