PVC Passthrough Tower Project

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

Hey All, This is my first post on HBT. The inspiration for this was from a previous post (apologies, can't recall who) who had a similiar project but with copper pipes. Couldn't justify the $150 in copper it would take to do this so did it for <$30 with PVC. Eventually want to do this with either copper or SS, but for now this handles the job alright.

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

Decided on 3" pipe as I thought 4" would be too big. Because of this I had to put out 1" extensions so shanks would fit with tubing within the tower. If I didn't have two 3" shanks already from my previous setup I would have gone with four 2" shanks, which would have fit with 1/2" extensions. I started out measuring my chest freezer (previously modified as fermentation chamber but replaced with stand up freezer). I drew up plans based on this and my homemade bar (which breaks down - key for this project, as top needs to come off when switching kegs).

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

I used an abrasive cut off machine I bought to cut steel tubing for my Herms Stand (in process and time permitting build & post soon) to cut the PVC pipe at 45 degree angles.

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

I used clear PVC pipe adhesive to glue the pieces together. Clamps and a square helped make sure it came together right.

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

I measured the center of the cross pipe and marked with a whiteboard maker. I then used a 7/8" bit to drill holes in the pipe. The first one came out a bit rough cause I rushed, but the remaining were smooth holes as they were drilled with more patience.

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

For the shanks to fit with room for the ends and tubing I had to add extensions to the front. Some cheap 1" PVC did the trick. If I had more patience I would have rounded the one side so they fit snug against the cross pipe, but this is a mid term (i.e. 1-2 year) solution and I'm so much more about function over fashion. Cut and glues (PVC adhesive) to the cross pipe, centering the holes. Originally I used the shank to hold in place, but the 7/8" hole required quite a bit of effort screwing the shank in, so after the first I just let gravity put the pressure on to hold the extensions in place.

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

While function is most important I didn't want my brews being served from white PVC pipe. I used rustoleum silver spray paint to paint the tower. If I were to do again (i.e. my suggestion to others) is put on very light coats and more if needed. I put on heavier coats and got drips as a result. Not overly unsightly (and definitely doesn't affect the flavor of my brew) but not perfect.

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

I placed the tower on the keezer and drew an outline of the base with whiteboard marker. I then marked and drilled holes using a step bit (originally purchased to drill a hole in a keg for a keggle a few years back that is now being replaced). Two holes on either side allow me to run 2 tap lines up from the keezer.

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

Attached to keezer via four 1" L-brackets per side. Seems to be holding up pretty well so far!

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

I cut a panel in the back of the cross bar of the tower and reattached via hinges. I need to put in 3rd hinge (plastic wants to bow) and a clasp at the bottom.

 

[The_Gerbil_Brewer]

Here's the final product. The bar top is attached via 4 clasps. Easily unclasp, lift off and the keezer is easily open. While not ideal, it allows the taps to be behing the bar, the keezer to be out of the way, and doesn't take that much effort. It actually is quite positive in that it keeps the bar top from becoming a dumping ground as it needs to be able to be removed to tap a new beer. While not the best pass through tower by any means, not a bad one for the cost and effort!