Quantcast

Pump for post-cooled wort transfer

HomeBrewTalk.com - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Community.

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

Razorback_Jack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
133
Reaction score
15
I’ve been using auto-siphon to transfer my cooled wort into the conical, and might continue to do so. However, I know many use a chugger pump for this, and say it is easier. I’m just concerned about sanitation... The fittings and ball valve in my boil kettle, the inside of the pump which .. how do you know if it’s really clean in there? What is your advice for a completely sanitary post-cooled wort transfer via pump? Any pump recommendations under or around $100? And how many of you think auto-siphon is more “safe”?

Cheers,
Jackson
 
OP
R

Razorback_Jack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
133
Reaction score
15
I’ve been using auto-siphon to transfer my cooled wort into the conical, and might continue to do so. However, I know many use a chugger pump for this, and say it is easier. I’m just concerned about sanitation... The fittings and ball valve in my boil kettle, the inside of the pump which .. how do you know if it’s really clean in there? What is your advice for a completely sanitary post-cooled wort transfer via pump? Any pump recommendations under or around $100? And how many of you think auto-siphon is more “safe”?

Cheers,
Jackson
I should’ve included.. I’m transferring from a Brewer’s Edge Mash and Boil to SS Brewtech Chronical ferm with FTSs lid.
 

Dland

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
1,640
Reaction score
745
A properly sanitized March or Chugger beer pump should be fine. If you want to be able to disassemble easily for cleaning, the Riptide has that feature, and is also a very nice pump, with on/off switch & quiet.

I usually pump partially cooled wort(with immersion coil) after hop step and into plate chiller, then to fermentors in cellar. But sometimes I bring it all the way down with the coil. The pumps are easy to clean and sanitize, compared to plate chiller, which by definition will be exposed to cooled wort.
 
OP
R

Razorback_Jack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
133
Reaction score
15
Looking at possibly this pump... just a little cheaper than Riptide but maybe Riptide is worth the additional $50? This is a 7gpm pump, so I could also use it with SS Brewtech CIP microball.


CHUGGER PUMP XCPSS-CI-1 X-DRY with Run Dry Protection, SS 115 Volt Center Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord w/Plug, 3/4" x 1/2” MPT Connections, ETL-Certified, US FDA Food Compliant Materials

So, the process... Do you:
1) Attach the tubes to the pump inlet and outlet
2) Use the pump to circulate a bucket with some StarSan (or Saniclean) for a few mins
3) Dunk most of the “out” hose INTO the sanitizer for a few mins while holding the pump (since the outside of the hose will touch beer)
4) Move the OUT hose to the ferm tank carefully and connect the IN hose to the kettle valve and then
5) Start ‘er up?

I have a cheaper (5gpm max) pump I use for circulating mash so the concept of pumping isn’t new... just how to do it when it MUST be sanitary.
 

Dland

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
1,640
Reaction score
745
The Riptide has a tri clamp assembly that allows user to take pump head apart w no screws. It is also a better pump, made by March. Chuggers work OK and cost less, which is what one expects from a Chinese knock off. I have one that works OK, but have had to replace impeller more often than in the nearly identical March I have.

The Riptide is superior to both, a newer design and I'm impressed w ease of disassembley and quiet running. Also nice to be able to turn on & off at pump, rather than go back to brew controller (or unplugging) to turn off.
 
OP
R

Razorback_Jack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
133
Reaction score
15
The Riptide has a tri clamp assembly that allows user to take pump head apart w no screws. It is also a better pump, made by March. Chuggers work OK and cost less, which is what one expects from a Chinese knock off. I have one that works OK, but have had to replace impeller more often than in the nearly identical March I have.

The Riptide is superior to both, a newer design and I'm impressed w ease of disassembley and quiet running. Also nice to be able to turn on & off at pump, rather than go back to brew controller (or unplugging) to turn off.
Thanks! I went ahead and bought the $199 Riptide Pump. I see that Blichmann makes a CIP ball specifically for that pump, so I might invest in that too, and fittings to use it on my SS Chronical lid or the FTSs lid. Or the Brewtech CIP micro ball, I think would also work with the Riptide.
 
OP
R

Razorback_Jack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
133
Reaction score
15
Anyone want to share their process for setting up cooled wort transfer with a pump? I’m a little OCD... okay I’m a lot OCD, and just want to make sure the process is as sanitary as possible. My proposed process in the original post was:
So, the process... Do you:
1) Attach the tubes to the pump inlet and outlet
2) Use the pump to circulate a bucket with some StarSan (or Saniclean) for a few mins
3) Dunk most of the “out” hose INTO the sanitizer for a few mins while holding the pump (since the outside of the hose will touch beer)
4) Move the OUT hose to the ferm tank carefully and connect the IN hose to the kettle valve and then
5) Start ‘er up?
Did I answer my own question with that? Seems like it would keep unwanted bacteria from getting in my wort, unless I’m missing something.

Cheers,
Jackson
 

Bobby_M

Vendor and Brewer
HBT Sponsor
Joined
Aug 3, 2006
Messages
24,824
Reaction score
3,498
Location
Whitehouse Station
You sanitize everything by pumping very hot wort from the boiler back into itself just after you turn the power off. This uses heat which is advantageous since chemical sanitation sometimes fails when bacteria is trapped in nook and crannies. Heat always works, even when things are not perfectly clean.
 
OP
R

Razorback_Jack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
133
Reaction score
15
You sanitize everything by pumping very hot wort from the boiler back into itself just after you turn the power off. This uses heat which is advantageous since chemical sanitation sometimes fails when bacteria is trapped in nook and crannies. Heat always works, even when things are not perfectly clean.
Thanks Bobby. That’s what I’ve been seeing in other threads too. If I add hops at 0 mins, though, don’t I risk clogging the Riptide?
 
OP
R

Razorback_Jack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2014
Messages
133
Reaction score
15
I haven't had issues with my Chugger pump doing this. I use pellet hops though.
I use pellets too. Really, I don’t often add at 0 mins... only occasionally. Usually at 5 mins is the latest hop addition for me, and after 5 mins they should be well dissolved I suppose.
 

RCope

CopeCraft Brewing
HBT Supporter
Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
206
Reaction score
472
I have clogged my Riptide during whirlpool. I pitched in 4 oz of pellet hops and the pump clogged. Pain in the ass to unclog. So, now I stop the pump, throw in my addition, stir with a spoon then restart the pump. If I use a hop spider (for larger additions), of course there is no risk. YMMV.

Cheers!
 

Bobby_M

Vendor and Brewer
HBT Sponsor
Joined
Aug 3, 2006
Messages
24,824
Reaction score
3,498
Location
Whitehouse Station
I usually have my kettle whirlpooling for a while before I throw the hops in because I drop the temp with an immersion chiller. There really would be nothing wrong with killing the pump for a minute or two, dumping the hops in to let them hydrate, then kicking the pump back on.
 

logdrum

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
1,136
Reaction score
140
Location
North Olmsted
I had a chugger clog once or twice, but I've switched to sprinkling the hops, rather than dumping all at once. Often 6+oz of pellets in the whirlpool.
 

Latest posts

Top