Propane to Electric

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Kevin M.

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Hi everyone. I'm a new member and my first post!
I made the switch to electric. A week ago I brewed my first e-batch. However, I think I see a problem. My system is a 240 volt, 50 amp, 4 element system, (only 2 on at a time), using 30 gallon pots. The PID, (REX-C700), controls the SSR's for my elements. So they are either on or off.
During the boil, the elements switch on and off constantly to maintain Temperature. So when they are off, the boil stops. I get the feeling I'm not actually doing a 60 minute boil.
So my question... Is there a way to add potentiometers to my SSR's or do I need to replace the SSR's with SSVR's?
Thanks!
 

Drumminguy81

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My panel has a 3 way switch for the boil elements that allows me to switch between pid control, off, or manual control. I use an auber potentiometer to adjust the boil in manual. I rarely ever use the pid unless it's for cleaning. I usually run it in manual at 100% till its boiling then I turn it down to around 55-60% to maintain a good boil. Works great.
20180430_170051.jpeg
 

JONNYROTTEN

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Nice setup for a first post. As stated the Pid Should have a manual mode. Theres one from Auberins that many here use, Some find Auberins EZ Boil easier. MyPin TD4 is another one available on Amazon for pretty cheap that does the same as the Auberins. I've been using it for a few years now.

Certainly seems like you know what your doing but avoid FOTEC SSR's. If thats what you have in your panel swap it ASAP it will will most likely fail at the worst time and fry your system.,,,cheers
 

rudylyon57

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Can't use a PID to control a boil since a simmer and turbulent boil are at the same temperature. Manual mode, which I think uses PWM control, from your PID is an option. Personally, I use and prefer an SSVR with and quick adjustment of a potentiometer (those hot breaks can rise quickly!) which regulates power by phase clipping. With that I can fine tune the boil turbulence and also dial in a power to achieve a desired boil off rate. PID manual mode can do the same.
I do like what @Drumminguy81 has with multiple modes (PID or a POT controlled Auber PWM) using an SSR.
 

Drumminguy81

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So are you wiring the pot to the SSR as you would a SSVR?
Honestly couldn't tell you. I didnt build the panel and haven't had any issues so no need to trace any wiring yet. I just know it works.
 

doug293cz

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So are you wiring the pot to the SSR as you would a SSVR?
No, if you want to control with a pot, you need an SSVR.

Most PID's (I'm not familiar with the REX units) have a way to set the PWM cycle time. For boiling, you want to put the PID in manual mode (if it doesn't have a manual mode, it's no good for controlling a boil), and the cycle time to the min that the PID supports (usually 1 - 2 seconds.) Using the min cycle time will minimize the boil pulsing.

Using an Auber EZBoil, instead of a PID, simplifies set up and operation. Operates similar to a PID for mashing, and an SSVR for boiling.

Brew on :mug:
 
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Kevin M.

Kevin M.

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Wasn't sure if you were asking about my panel or Drumminguy81. I built my own.
 

Drumminguy81

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Who built your panel? Which make and model are the PIDs? I dont recognize them in the pics but this is extremely important info to help guide the best path forward.
If you're asking about mine, it was custom build by another forum member that I purchased it from. My PIDs are auber syl-2352. And also to clear up I dont actually have a POT for my manual boil control. It is a auber digital ssr power regulator for wort boil control. So I am using it with just a regular ssr as it is designed. The model is auber dspr1. Here is a link for anyone interested
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=444
 
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augiedoggy

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Hi everyone. I'm a new member and my first post!
I made the switch to electric. A week ago I brewed my first e-batch. However, I think I see a problem. My system is a 240 volt, 50 amp, 4 element system, (only 2 on at a time), using 30 gallon pots. The PID, (REX-C700), controls the SSR's for my elements. So they are either on or off.
During the boil, the elements switch on and off constantly to maintain Temperature. So when they are off, the boil stops. I get the feeling I'm not actually doing a 60 minute boil.
So my question... Is there a way to add potentiometers to my SSR's or do I need to replace the SSR's with SSVR's?
Thanks!
you just need to replace the rex pids with ones like the mypin TD4-snr to have the manual (pwm) boil mode feature for a smooth boil.(makes the ssr behave just like a pot with an ssvr only controlled with a digital percentage adjusted with the up or down buttons for strength).. Some set the pid too 214 degrees so it stays on at `100% but with even 30 gallons thats way too much element for that in your case.

(BTW real rex pids are made in japan, the rex I bought as my first pid was also lacking manual mode.. it was a c100 and it was a fake clone made and shipped to me from china in a rex looking box that said made in japan but when I opened it up and found a thread comparing real vs fakes I found mine was fake. I swapped it out with the mypin which I used for years.

the best value pids I know of with manual mode are the mypin mentioned above and the inkbird IV6 or something like that.. I have used 4 of the mypins. do not get the mypin ta4 it has no manual mode.

EDIT I second the fotek ssr comment... those are almost all fake clones as well and can be bought i bulk for 1/2 a penny each on alibaba.. not a lot of quality going on there for that price.
 
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Kevin M.

Kevin M.

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you just need to replace the rex pids with ones like the mypin TD4-snr to have the manual (pwm) boil mode feature for a smooth boil.(makes the ssr behave just like a pot with an ssvr only controlled with a digital percentage adjusted with the up or down buttons for strength).. Some set the pid too 214 degrees so it stays on at `100% but with even 30 gallons thats way too much element for that in your case.

(BTW real rex pids are made in japan, the rex I bought as my first pid was also lacking manual mode.. it was a c100 and it was a fake clone made and shipped to me from china in a rex looking box that said made in japan but when I opened it up and found a thread comparing real vs fakes I found mine was fake. I swapped it out with the mypin which I used for years.

the best value pids I know of with manual mode are the mypin mentioned above and the inkbird IV6 or something like that.. I have used 4 of the mypins. do not get the mypin ta4 it has no manual mode.

EDIT I second the fotek ssr comment... those are almost all fake clones as well and can be bought i bulk for 1/2 a penny each on alibaba.. not a lot of quality going on there for that price.
Thanks but I've already ordered 2 SSVR's and a dual pot. The Dual pot is already installed on my panel. Dual pot.jpg
As for the REX C700's, I probably have Chinese knock offs too. (They were $11.00 each). Instructions were very difficult to understand and some of the functions don't work at all. Such as changing from Celsius to Fahrenheit. It simply won't change so I'm getting used to Celsius. Not a big deal.
My instruction sheet covers the REX C100, C400, C410, C700, and C900 so I can see the C100 didn't have many functions available. That said, my BK PID is only going to be a nice looking digital thermometer since my elements will be controlled by the pot and SSVRs.
 
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