Priming with DME

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kevinrmclean

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I am getting ready to bottle an oatmeal stout. The recipe calls for a pound of DME. That sounds like a lot to me. It is a 5.5 Gallon batch. If this sounds right, my question is how much water should I boil to get the DME mixed with the wort?

I appreciate all your help.:mug:

Cheers and Fair Winds,
Kevin
 
if it calls for a pound of dme for priming that is way to much. you shouldnt use more then 5 oz's for a 5 gallon batch. i use 4 oz's just l;ike corn sugar. dme takes longer to carbonate than corn sugar, i have found that it takes like a week longer in some cases, but thats just me, i also think that priming with dme tastes that little bit better.
 
One pound is too much. I think most times for DME it is 1.25 cups. It's going to take longer to carbonate so be prepared to wait.
 
I primed my 5 gallons of Weissen with 1.25 cups in a pint of water. It's the perfect amount of carbonation.
 
God, I am so glad this site is here. My wife would be pissed if I made a batch of bottle bombs, and I think I would just sit and cry!!

My next question is it says to condition at 50F. Isn't this too cold for the yeast to be active?
 
kevinrmclean said:
God, I am so glad this site is here. My wife would be pissed if I made a batch of bottle bombs, and I think I would just sit and cry!!

My next question is it says to condition at 50F. Isn't this too cold for the yeast to be active?
Yeah, that is to cold for carbonating but once it is carbed then it would be OK. Try to let them carbonate at around 70. My beers never last that long.:)
 
Recipe called for the secondary racking to be at 50. I used Nottingham dry yeast. Is this yeast still going to be active, or shoud I add some more?
 
kevinrmclean said:
Recipe called for the secondary racking to be at 50. I used Nottingham dry yeast. Is this yeast still going to be active, or shoud I add some more?
I would think that it will be fine. There will still be enough yeast in suspension. You know with a stout there really isn't any reason to use a secondary.
 
I was trying to follow direstions. SWMBO got me the ingredients from a LHBS and they supplies the recipe. It a grays oatmeal stout. Of course they had to sub a lot of the stuff as they are not really well stocked. I am so glad my LHBS is better than the one the stuff came from. My LHBS in Jax, FL is top notch!!!:rockin:
 
kevinrmclean said:
I was trying to follow direstions. SWMBO got me the ingredients from a LHBS and they supplies the recipe. It a grays oatmeal stout. Of course they had to sub a lot of the stuff as they are not really well stocked. I am so glad my LHBS is better than the one the stuff came from. My LHBS in Jax, FL is top notch!!!:rockin:
Yeah,I figured that but secondaries are about clearing and you will never see it in a stout. I now just go primary for 3 weeks and secondary rarely. Remember that those directions are guidelines and one does not have to strictly adhere to them because each brew is different.
 
It's important that you measure how much beer you are actually bottling when you figure out how much DME you need to add for priming. The recipe says it's a 5.5 gallon batch, but how much do you actually have?

When I bottled, I also used DME, and I was always happy with the results. Go with 1/4 cup per gallon you will actually bottle. If you actually have five gallons to bottle, 1.25 cups is perfect. I honestly don't remember how much water I boiled, but what Jaeger and Yooper said sounds right. :)


TL
 

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