I am in the process of brewing my first batch which happens to be a milk stout. Thought i'd take a stab at one of my favorite types of beer. The kit that i bought suggests that i ferment to 4-7 days in the primary stage and to take a reading before fermentation has completed. Problem being, their air lock was bubbling after 24 hours but has since stopped bubbling. How can i tell when fermentation is completed so that i can take a reading before that? Also, The kit suggests that i secondary ferment for 2 weeks. Everyone on this forum keeps suggests otherwise. What should i do and why? Please and thanks
Primary Fermentation
- Thread starter CADETS3
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What kit did you use? Which yeast? 4-7 days in primary seems short to me. I personally would just leave it in the primary for 2-3 weeks depending on how big of a beer it is.
Make sure your airlock/bung/bucket lid is on tight. It is unlikely that the airlock should stop bubbling after 24 hours.
Make sure your airlock/bung/bucket lid is on tight. It is unlikely that the airlock should stop bubbling after 24 hours.
When the airlock slows or stops the rapid bubbling, only initial fermentation is done. It'll then slowly, uneventfully creep down to a stable FG. Then I give it 3-7 days to clean up by-products of fermentation & settle out clear or slightly misty. Then prime & bottle. Those kit instructions are usually a bit to quick on timing. Give it two weeks Then test with hydrometer to see if it's in FG range stated. If not, it needs more time. If yes, check it gain on the third day past. If the numbers match, it's done.
chickypad
lupulin shift victim
Unless you were worried that fermentation didn't start at all or are trying to catch the end of fermentation for a diacetyl rest (mostly for lagers) I can't think of a reason of intentionally taking a reading before fermentation is done. I agree with union, leave it for about 2 wks, if the gravity is stable on 2 readings over a few days you're good to package. A secondary would be appropriate if it is a big stout and you want to age it, just be aware that every transfer is an opportunity to introduce oxygen or infection. If aging in bulk you will want to have the proper vessel like a smaller carboy that would leave very little headspace (or a keg). Otherwise you can always age in bottles. The fewer times you open the fermenter and disturb the beer the better in my mind, so I would make sure there is a reason for every extra step before you do it.
Unless you were worried that fermentation didn't start at all or are trying to catch the end of fermentation for a diacetyl rest (mostly for lagers) I can't think of a reason of intentionally taking a reading before fermentation is done. I agree with union, leave it for about 2 wks, if the gravity is stable on 2 readings over a few days you're good to package. A secondary would be appropriate if it is a big stout and you want to age it, just be aware that every transfer is an opportunity to introduce oxygen or infection. If aging in bulk you will want to have the proper vessel like a smaller carboy that would leave very little headspace (or a keg). Otherwise you can always age in bottles. The fewer times you open the fermenter and disturb the beer the better in my mind, so I would make sure there is a reason for every extra step before you do it.
Without removing the lid, what's a sign of complete fermentation? Will all the krausen and bubbles be gone?
chickypad
lupulin shift victim
Yes the krausen will usually fall and the beer will clear. Sometimes the krausen can be stubborn with certain yeasts, and on occasion you may have to rack from under it, but only after confirming that the gravity is not falling. Two weeks should be more than enough unless there was some problem with yeast health. I wasn't suggesting to skip the measurements altogether, I was just questioning the recommendation to take it mid-fermentation because I don't see how that is going to help you. You need to let the beer finish and take the final gravity to calculate the ABV, so might as well wait until it's likely done and have one less exposure risk.
gatomalo
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you get your ABV when you reach your final gravity, not at an intermediate reading. an intermediate reading might help you later do decide when to move to the secondary. some people choose to move the beer at 80% for example (if your OG started at 1.080 and FG is 1.015, 80% would be 1.052).
you can't tell whether fermentation is done or not unless you crack open the lid. you'll have to resist the urge to be curious and trust that you're happily fermenting. but opening the lid a couple times over the span of weeks won't hurt your beer.
open er up. sanitize your turkey baster/wine thief, and use a hydrometer to take the reading. don't return the beer to the fermenter. when you reach your FG. you can leave it in the 2ndary to age for however long, or begin bottling.
you can't tell whether fermentation is done or not unless you crack open the lid. you'll have to resist the urge to be curious and trust that you're happily fermenting. but opening the lid a couple times over the span of weeks won't hurt your beer.
open er up. sanitize your turkey baster/wine thief, and use a hydrometer to take the reading. don't return the beer to the fermenter. when you reach your FG. you can leave it in the 2ndary to age for however long, or begin bottling.
gatomalo
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racking cane goes into the beer. simply avoid letting the siphon/racking cane form picking up the trub at the bottom, or the krausen at the top. i generally try to rest the racking cane on the sidewall of the bucket.
