Potential CO2 Leak

[Jdinh127]

I am new to this so please do not laugh at this question

I purchased a new co2 tank, and after 2-3 weeks, the tank is now completely empty. Why do I think it’s a leak? Its because I only dispensed about 50 12xoz glasses.

I’d like to switch out the entire hose to be safe.

1) Can someone please provide me w details on type/size hose I need to replace?

2) how do I remove the hose? Do I just simply remove clamps on both?

 

[doug293cz]

I am new to this so please do not laugh at this question

I purchased a new co2 tank, and after 2-3 weeks, the tank is now completely empty. Why do I think it’s a leak? Its because I only dispensed about 50 12xoz glasses.

I’d like to switch out the entire hose to be safe.

1) Can someone please provide me w details on type/size hose I need to replace?

2) how do I remove the hose? Do I just simply remove clamps on both?

It's not usually the hose/tubing that leaks. It is almost always one, or more, of the connections, valves, regulators, etc. that leaks. Spraying soapy water or StarSan on all the connections can often identify where the leak is.

If you can't find a leak by seeing bubbles, then disconnect the keg connector(s) and shut off all valves between the CO2 tank and the keg connections. Open the tank valve, and then shut it. Watch the low pressure gauge over time. If the pressure drops to zero in less than 24 hours, then you have a leak between the tank and the first valve. If it holds pressure, then open the next valve in series, and repeat the previous test. If no leak is found, then connect the keg connector, and repeat the test. If it doesn't hold pressure, then it's probably the keg connector or connection that is leaking. If you can isolate the component that is leaking, then replace it.

One thing to note is that the tank valve should always be fully opened (to the stop) or fully closed, If in a mid position, it can leak around the valve stem.

Brew on

 

[Broken Crow]

^That! ..and; Maybe it's late and my brain's fuzzy, but if you have a small pipe-wrench handy you might want to make sure the barb from your regulator valve is tight. Every time I see dirty threads that are suddenly clean right at the fitting, the first thing I check is to see if it has been turned loose somehow or was maybe never fully tightened to begin with:

 

[Bobby_M]

Remove this nut. See if there's rubber "duckbill" in there. If not, you need a rubber gasket at least. If the duckbill is there, make sure you're not overtight on that nut. It can squeeze the duckbill out of place.

 

[Tony B]

Make sure you’re getting a good fill on the tank. If it’s a 5lb tank it should weigh 5 lbs more full than empty. It helps to bring it to be filled when it’s cold. At least that’s what I was told at the place I fill mine. I always make sure mine has been in the fridge for a few hours before I take it to be filled. They told me if they fill it warm they won’t always get a full 5 lbs in and if it’s nice and cold, you may get a bit more.
I have also found a few leaks. Make sure all your connections are good and O rings are in place and lubricated.

 

[hottpeper13]

When I have a slow leak, ya know one that takes a week to empty the tank I've found it to be the gasket between the regulator and tank. The most important thing to do on my systems is to use keg lube on all the poppet valve "O" rings.

 

[Broken Crow]

^ I just looked at your other posts and am wondering if this is the first time you've changed your CO2 tank?
If so, while some regulators have an o-ring in the connection to the CO2 tank, most have a washer that needs to be changed (or at least flipped over) every time you change the tank.
Dunno if this link will show up or not, but here's the washer that goes between your regulator and CO2 tank;
https://www.amazon.com/Regulator-Washer-Nylon-Pack-Kegconnection/dp/B07F71422K