Portable Glass Rinser Parts Help Needed

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VikeMan

It ain't all burritos and strippers, my friend.
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I'm putting together a portable glass rinser. I picked up an assembly that included a pan (sink), nozzle, and inlet/outlet pipes. The pipes are described thusly:

"1/2" (DN15=1.5cm) External thread"

FQ9qDYi.jpg


What kind of connectors/adapters do I need to fit those threads? I want to get down to 5/16" or 1/2" hose barbs in as few steps as possible. TIA!
 
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Those look like threads that are on the bottom hookup for a sink faucet, maybe you could get a faucet hose for a sink, alot are braided steel but they make nylon too. So get one of those and cut it in half, probably gonna be 1/2 line, then put a barb splice in it? Maybe.
 
Yep, it sure looks like a faucet connector. Example:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCr...Polymer-Faucet-Supply-Line-B1-16A-F/100056596
I see them always labeled "FIP" as in the link. I don't think it's any tapered pipe thread.

The other end is usually compression, to attach to a valve, but there can be other variations. Cutting and clamping a hose barb directly could definitely work. Probably a hose barb on each end kind of a deal, one for the cut part of this line, one that you intended to use to start with.
 
Right, the 1/2" end is straight threaded and relies on the integrated rubber gasket to seal.

Wrt to the OP's needs, I'm not sure anyone makes a FPT to barb fitting so a 1/2" FPT/FPT coupler followed by a 1/2" MPT to 3/8" ID barb might be required.

Also, over the decades I have made up various adapters to attach stuff to faucets with 1/2" threads and invariably picked up the fittings needed at Lowes or Home Depot...

Cheers!
 
Right, the 1/2" end is straight threaded and relies on the integrated rubber gasket to seal.
Yep, agreed. Relies on a gasket instead of threads being crushed together.

I don't mean to argue but I think you called it MPT which would mean Male side tapered pipe thread, hence my "hmm, no, I don't think it's a tapered pipe thread" reply :)

Anyhow, yeah, we're agreeing what it is. Vikeman's got some options now.
 
Won't a half inch BSP fit straight on there?

You can get those braided connectors with female to male or female female then just screw on a male or female barb as needed.
Or a half inch BSP to 15mm speedfit john guest and just push the hosepipe in.
 
BSP is weird. "Beer thread" is 7/8" - 14 in the USA, but "5/8" BSP" pretty much everywhere else in the world.
How they can fit together is a mystery to me :)

Cheers!
 
@day_trippr
Don't get me started on the different thread types for beer taps and the rest. Drives me crazy! Plus throw in metric or imperial or USA. Plus down here they use the weirdest connectors for home plumbing to join plastic pipe together, elbows and to attach taps etc.
They thought I was mad when I wanted an isolator valve on the supply to sinks and toilets, standard in the UK and cheap as chips.
 
NPS is straight pipe thread, NPT is tapered. (In the US)

FIP or MIP only tells you that it is a pipe thread and that it's internal threads (FIP) or external threads (MIP). Doesn't tell you if they are tapered or not. So you have to figure that out with other information or just look.

Those look straight. Which everything I ever saw that had those type nuts on them were straight pipe threads. Something made for a 1/2 compression fitting might work best as it'll have a seal that seals on the inside edge of the pipe. If you just get a FIP fitting, then it might require a teflon tape or pipe dope to seal from leaks. And that might not be as desirable.
 
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It turns out that the two pipes in this thing are actually different. I can make the drain pipe work with a 1/2" FPT barb and some teflon tape, because it won't see any real pressure. But 1/2" FPT won't even start to thread on the supply pipe.

1/2" FIP at the end of a braided faucet hose fits the supply pipe. I may have to use a short one with a barb in the other end to get to the silicone hose. I'd prefer not to, because it will require a taller box to house this thing. (The braided hose is only so bendy.)

Why does the braided hose FIP connection fit the supply pipe, but a 1/2" FTP won't? Beats me. Are braided hose FIP threads not tapered?
 
Threads on the.. FPT or FTP don't engage because they are too big a diameter on that barb fitting? Then they are using that to mean female tapered pipe. If I say anything more that'd be even a bigger guess than I've already been making.

The terminology isn't really exactly standardized across the industry. NPT and NPS are the only ones I count on across the board.
 
I just finished up a build of my own and used a 60" 1/2 FIP to 3/8 compression braided hose. I cut the 3/8 end off and used a swivel nut and oetiker clamp to go to my ball lock disconnect with FFL. I also used a 1/2" NPT 90 degree street elbow and ran a 1/2 NPT die over the end of the supply line to the glass rinser to make sure I was able to get a good seal with teflon tape. The 1/2 FIP then went on the male thread of the elbow.

I mounted mine to the top of a 5 gallon bucket lid and just drilled the appropriate holes to mount the rinser and to allow it to drain into the bucket.
 
. I also used a 1/2" NPT 90 degree street elbow and ran a 1/2 NPT die over the end of the supply line to the glass rinser to make sure I was able to get a good seal with teflon tape. The 1/2 FIP then went on the male thread of the elbow.

I'm having trouble picturing what you're saying here. Are you saying you retooled the threads on the original supply pipe? I can't even get a 1/2" NPT fitting started on mine.

I discovered that my supply pipe fits a grainger NPS barbed hose fitting, which kind of makes sense, since the pipe's threads don't look tapered. But the NPS barbed hose fitting is a two piece sort of a swivel thing, which expects a "face" to mate with. Of course, the supply pipe doesn't have a face per se, so I added an O-ring between the pipe end and the ball-like end of the barb piece, and another O-ring between the barb piece and the nut piece. Pressure tested and it works, at least for now.
 
I'm having trouble picturing what you're saying here. Are you saying you retooled the threads on the original supply pipe? I can't even get a 1/2" NPT fitting started on mine.

Yes, I ran a 1/2" NPT die over the end of threads that supply the sprayer. Your threads look pretty short, so that may not work. I would think a 1/2 FIP to compression hose would work though if you're able to cut the compression end off and attach a new hose barb. I can get some pictures if it would help.
 
Yes, I ran a 1/2" NPT die over the end of threads that supply the sprayer. Your threads look pretty short, so that may not work. I would think a 1/2 FIP to compression hose would work though if you're able to cut the compression end off and attach a new hose barb. I can get some pictures if it would help.

A 1/2" FIP connector on a braided hose does fit. I will go that route if I have to, but then I would need a pretty tall box to mount this in, so that the hose can bend gently (over a too-large radius) and exit parallel to the bottom. (This thing will sit on a table-top at events.) I have a couple of 1/2" barb to barb elbows coming, and will try those (along with very short pieces of tubing) with the barbs I've already adapted. Supply side would look thusly:

YzmKEzi.png
 
I'm using one of these on the bottom of my rinser assembly and then the FIP hose to the male end. Before I ran the die over the rinser bottom I was able to get a few threads onto the below, but I did cut around 1.5 inches off the bottom and ran a die over just to make sure I get some more thread engagement.
https://www.grainger.com/product/46...tZCOLn6rseTz-AIo7zoaAmdzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I'll get a picture at lunch today and post it here.
 
Testing with the elbows installed.

 
Watching this, in awe.
A few things that aren't clear.

I may have to use a short one with a barb in the other end to get to the silicone hose.
Why would you use silicone in the pressurized supply line? It doesn't have a high pressure rating, unless it's reinforced. Even then...

To keep the connector box underneath the fountain low profile can't you get short elbows or 90° adapters to put on the fountain's connection stubs?
 
Why would you use silicone in the pressurized supply line? It doesn't have a high pressure rating, unless it's reinforced. Even then...

I'm using silicone because it's flexible. It's only going to see about 6 PSI.

To keep the connector box underneath the fountain low profile can't you get short elbows or 90° adapters to put on the fountain's connection stubs?

I'd love to, if I could find any that fit. These are not NPT pipes. NPS fits. "Faucet FIP" fits. But "regular" NPT fittings I have tried don't. I foolishly bought an assembly from an amazon vendor that showed the product with 90 degree elbows, strongly implying that it came with them, but it didn't. I'm relatively happy with the height I have now. The box will basically end up as a cube, which should be pretty stable.
 
If you make something similar to the Spülboy, let me know. The movers stole mine a decade ago on my move back from Germany, and I haven't replaced it yet. The cost in the States is way too much compared to what I paid over there. But there are some motorized ones I've been eyeing, and this build of yours has me thinking...
 
I've now been looking at this but fixed.
Small rinsers with basin attached and the connectors on AliExpress seem reasonable.
With this in mind and revamping brewery / bar I've added this.
Feed ports for CO2, Beer gas and now water. I used fermenter grommets drilled to fit a blanking plate.
Hdmi and cat6 plugs to supply and output raspberry pi to display pints and media.
IMG_20230809_105111.jpg
 
It turns out that the two pipes in this thing are actually different. I can make the drain pipe work with a 1/2" FPT barb and some teflon tape, because it won't see any real pressure. But 1/2" FPT won't even start to thread on the supply pipe.

1/2" FIP at the end of a braided faucet hose fits the supply pipe. I may have to use a short one with a barb in the other end to get to the silicone hose. I'd prefer not to, because it will require a taller box to house this thing. (The braided hose is only so bendy.)

Why does the braided hose FIP connection fit the supply pipe, but a 1/2" FTP won't? Beats me. Are braided hose FIP threads not tapered?
Supply lines use compression (flare) threads at the valve. FIP is female iron pipe. Those 1/2" FIP connections in my experience typically come from China where they adopted the British straight threads it seems on the fixtures' connection to the supply line (think Hong Kong). The BSP connections need a gasket or a variation but don't use teflon tape or pipe dope. And in most cases BSP and NPT don't play well together because the threads are cut differently, but each does have straight and tapered variations. BSP is British Standard Pipe. By itself (BSP) it generally is straight (parallel -P) threads as that's the standard and NPT is National Pipe Threads, which by itself, is pretty much always tapered (T) as that's the standard. Straight pipe threads need a gasket usually, tapered gets the teflon or pipe dope. The supply line you have therefore is 1/2" female iron pipe (FIP) but the threads are BSP( or BSPP). Big box suppliers know that China is making a lot of fixtures so the stores have the braided supply lines acting as an adapter to make it "easier" for you. There are 1/2" BSP to 1/2" NPT adapters (possibly a coupling instead). Kind of depends on where the supply is coming from and where the waste is going to. You might want to go to garden hose threads (GHT) for instance on the supply to connect to hose/spigot. And then what type of container is the waste travelling to?
 
I had thought about G-thread/BSPP, and whether that might be what my pipe is. I do know that NPS fits. Would that be expected with BSPP? If the pipe really is BSPP, I'm thinking this might be the most elegant solution:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H6QRNSC/
31JG2g5kB5L._AC_.jpg
The threads are different even if BSPP and NPT Straight. They are close though but most information I have seen says they are incompatible with the exception that I have seen places where it is stated that 1/2" can work together. I ran into this problem with a second faucet I installed for a bottle washer. I got it off of Amazon and it was made in China. They sent multiple adapters with it but I still had problems hooking it up. I think they had sent 3/8"NPT adapters but it's when I found out they used G threads in China. It's possible that the supply hoses my be NPT straight, I could be off on that part about the big box stores, but it's not commonly used in general. Usually when something is FIP or MIP they are NPT (tapered). Like FIP is the same as F-NPT and MIP is the same as M-NPT. Sinks and toilets which have the stop valves were traditionally 3/8" compression with those metal flared tubes. Tubs and showers used to be sweat joints or NPT at the fixture, usually 1/2". Now things are more replaceable for homeowners so they make them screw in. Replacing a sink faucet is relatively easy these days, you don't need a torch or other special tools where in the past you really did need a plumber. I always make sure the thread sizes are specified in detail or I don't buy it. They usually give you the supply hoses with a faucet so I don't pay attention as much on the fixture hose connection.

I can say that the supply hose pictured earlier is definitely a straight thread on the 1/2" side as it has a gasket, which straight threads need. Garden hose threads are straight, that's why that rubber piece is necessary on those. I don't have anything that is NPT straight to say what the gasket might look like but in pictures they are often flat. The supply hose pictured has more of a dome shape rubber though.

DN15 is an ISO standard but it simply is the metric way of designating a nominal pipe size, here 15mm for I think the inner diameter. Which is why I was thinking it is BSPP. Even though the Brits use BSP thread sizes they are on the metric system plus 15mm is the outer diameter of their formerly designated 1/2" copper pipes. DN15 doesn't explicitly mean the threads are parallel however so the company using that is causing the confusion and exacerbating it by using an ambiguous nominal pipe size of 1/2" which could be BSP or NPT as well as tapered or parallel!
 
This " thread " is more confusing than usb adapters.
Yes, with usb being slightly more confusing than monitor cables which to really screw with you monitor cables are moving to USB-C. With all of it being more confusing if you are older having lived through the various types but the younger people think you are confused because you are old. I used to connect a cassette player to a computer for storage and turn the dial on the TV to channel 3 to use the computer after flipping the switch on the antenna jack. Not that it was a vacuum tube mainframe or anything. Kids are like, "What's the old man babbling about this time?!"
 
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