Plugging the tube hole in kegerator

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hilljack13

That's what she said!
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I just received my kegerator and as I look at the tube holes on the rear, I was wondering what to use to keep cold air from coming out. Is this even an issue? There will be 3 tubes going in. I didn't measure the hole size but it has what looks to be a standard size soda bottle cap that initial covers it.
 
what brand kegerator is it . mine came with the hole plugs in case you want to use it as a fridge .

cold air will def escape if not plugged..

a small bung will work.
 
https://www.amazon.com/GORGECRAFT-S...cphy=9004369&hvtargid=pla-2281435179098&psc=1

1741300985437.png


these look like mine and will likely work
 
oh i thought you were trying to close the hole altogether .

when i run my gas lines through the hole there is some daylight you can see so its not a perfect seal and there is the tiniest whisp of a draft coming through.

if i was to seal them i would prolly use some putty or something,
or maybe foam insulation.

but i dont bother
 
I’m leaning towards Silicone caulk or putty. I stuffed a little packing foam around the hoses running through mine temporarily until I figure out a better solution.
 
I have a Komos kegerator. The CO2 line holes are threaded to accept a threaded ball lock adapter. That way the line can be quickly disconnected and reconnected. You'll run 1 gas line per hole (mine can with two on the back) and then split the CO2 lines inside the keg.
 

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I'm gonna tag @KegLand because they can cheaply mass-produce these:
I'm 90% sure that the Komos with the bottle-cap gas-line holes is the same OEM base unit as @KegLand 's Series-X, which I have, and here's what I did:
Took a PET bottle cap and drilled a large hole leaving only a 'retaining' rim, dug through my plastic recyclables and cut out a disk to fit inside the bottle-cap, drilled a hole in the bottle cap, took the 'holes' that I had cut out for the shanks when 'completing' the tower insulation (something that seemingly every beer-tower maker seems to neglect..I just used the same foam packing material as the 'incomplete' insulation that the tower ships with..and this is something you may wish to do yourself for both energy-efficiency and keeping your taps cold). I cut 3 foam disks to fit in the cap, and made slightly undersized (for the gasline) holes and stacked the lot together:
IMG_1711.jpg

As you see, this is just a single gasline, but I'm slowly in the process of repeating this process to make a pair of these to handle 2 lines each to go in each side of the kegerator.
As to my complaint about the tower insulation, I recommend 'completing' it: (Foam insulation/salvaged packing material from which I cut what I needed)
IMG_1712.jpg

'Completed' tower insulation:
IMG_1499.jpg

IMG_1497.jpg

Hope this is useful..and I hope @KegLand can start including or at least selling precut PET caps and foam inserts with 1,2,and 3 holes.
:mug:
 
I have a Komos kegerator. The CO2 line holes are threaded to accept a threaded ball lock adapter. That way the line can be quickly disconnected and reconnected. You'll run 1 gas line per hole (mine can with two on the back) and then split the CO2 lines inside the keg.
I do remember seeing other pictures of this. I was planning on using a kegco 3 Guage regulator. I am not sure how to get it mounted since it is kinda big.
 
I have the same kegerator. I recently swapped the 4 tap tube tower that came with it for my old T tower with the same number of taps. Like Broken Crow, I used the insulation that came with mine to insulate the tower.

I'm going to use a piece of that same insulation to plug any gap(s), so I can run 4 lines in from the back of the Komos. This way, I can mount the distributor on the back of the unit instead of having it on the inside. May do the bottle cap idea Broken Crow did.
 
i had no idea they have standard pco28 threaded outlets. thats so cool. i am jealous.

you could easily drill a whole in any soda cap.

morebeer sells these:
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and these:
1741444359770.png



but i would def go with steel carb caps:
1741444422839.png
 
I do remember seeing other pictures of this. I was planning on using a kegco 3 Guage regulator. I am not sure how to get it mounted since it is kinda big.
..yeah... I'm still flummoxed on that issue myself so let me share a warning here: DO NOT try and make any holes in the back of the plastic top; there is a refrigerant connecting the condensing coils in the outer walls running right there and if you try and drill or screw into it, you'll destroy it. I want to mount my eventual secondaries where I can see them without pulling the unit out, that is; over the back of the unit behind the tower, but there are precious few places where a supporting framework can be mounted... I'll share if I figure out a way to do that.
 
..yeah... I'm still flummoxed on that issue myself so let me share a warning here: DO NOT try and make any holes in the back of the plastic top; there is a refrigerant connecting the condensing coils in the outer walls running right there and if you try and drill or screw into it, you'll destroy it. I want to mount my eventual secondaries where I can see them without pulling the unit out, that is; over the back of the unit behind the tower, but there are precious few places where a supporting framework can be mounted... I'll share if I figure out a way to do that.
Oh noo...won't be doing any drilling. I have the regulator sitting on top, flat. It's pretty big and has some weight to it. At best I might use some tape on the regulator's mounting bracket, that's it.
 
@hilljack13 @Broken Crow

If you guys aren't using the co2 tank bracket, couldn't you just fab up something utilizing those mounting points? I took my bracket off as I have a 20lb co2 cylinder. I thought about using some fiber board to mount my 4 way distributor and maybe a secondary regulator since the Komos has two entry points. I don't like having the distributor inside the kegerator.
 
@hilljack13 @Broken Crow

If you guys aren't using the co2 tank bracket, couldn't you just fab up something utilizing those mounting points? I took my bracket off as I have a 20lb co2 cylinder. I thought about using some fiber board to mount my 4 way distributor and maybe a secondary regulator since the Komos has two entry points. I don't like having the distributor inside the kegerator.
Can you show a pic? I have a 20lb as well so it is going to sit outside. I didn't bother mounting the bracket and my regulator/distributor is just hanging out on top of the unit.

1000006288.jpg
 
:mug:@hilljack13 @Broken Crow

If you guys aren't using the co2 tank bracket, couldn't you just fab up something utilizing those mounting points? I took my bracket off as I have a 20lb co2 cylinder. I thought about using some fiber board to mount my 4 way distributor and maybe a secondary regulator since the Komos has two entry points. I don't like having the distributor inside the kegerator.
I am using mine but I am intending to start with a piece of sheet-steel (and maybe some 1" angle) and make use of that peg that it hangs on, only extending all the way down to the flange just above the compressor area, where I can maybe drill or use longer machine screws and nuts and make some kind of 'backing plate' that extends upwards and provides a bracket that can bear the weight of both the 10lb tank I use and a set of secondary regulators that I can view and set without pulling the unit out.
...still slowly deciding, but due to both disabilty and the destroyed garage roof that was only repaired as we went into winter (I can't work in the cold), I'm not rushing, but hoping to have a structural solution this summer.
IMG_1713.jpg

BTW: I can't find anything online to confirm, but it seems to keep coming up on here: I'm over 90% certain that the Komos and the Kegland Series-X (mine pictured above) are the same base units...anyone know this for absolute certain?
Also BTW: @Yesfan : I see in your picture, a box labeled "KOMOS Dual Regulator", but I see Kegco regulators.. I've also been over 90% certain that KOMOS regulators and Kegland Mark IV regulators are identical OEMs...I ask you this:
whatsinthebox.jpg

:mug:
 
Can you show a pic? I have a 20lb as well so it is going to sit outside. I didn't bother mounting the bracket and my regulator/distributor is just hanging out on top of the unit.

View attachment 870652


It's the 4 screws that your bracket would mount to for a 5lb co2 tank (like in Broken Crow's pic). Like you, I don't use my bracket and removed it since I have a 20lb tank. I don't have any pics as I don't have anything fabbed up just yet.

You can just takes some sheet steel, plywood, etc and mark the holes so they match up to your co2 bracket screws. Attach your secondary regulators to your board, then attach the board assembly to the 4 point of your kegerator. If you're worried about weight, you could always make the steel or ply tall enough to where it can "hang" from the top of the kegerator by adding a lip or backet to it so it sits on top to help keep the weight distributed.

If you have enough clearance between the kegerator and your regulator board, you could use some of those Harbor Freight magnets LINK that have the hook on them. They are rated for 25lb/each. Just remove the hook and screw the magnets to the back of your board. Save the hooks for another project.
 
I am using mine but I am intending to start with a piece of sheet-steel (and maybe some 1" angle) and make use of that peg that it hangs on, only extending all the way down to the flange just above the compressor area, where I can maybe drill or use longer machine screws and nuts and make some kind of 'backing plate' that extends upwards and provides a bracket that can bear the weight of both the 10lb tank I use and a set of secondary regulators that I can view and set without pulling the unit out.
...still slowly deciding, but due to both disabilty and the destroyed garage roof that was only repaired as we went into winter (I can't work in the cold), I'm not rushing, but hoping to have a structural solution this summer.
View attachment 870699
BTW: I can't find anything online to confirm, but it seems to keep coming up on here: I'm over 90% certain that the Komos and the Kegland Series-X (mine pictured above) are the same base units...anyone know this for absolute certain?
Also BTW: @Yesfan : I see in your picture, a box labeled "KOMOS Dual Regulator", but I see Kegco regulators.. I've also been over 90% certain that KOMOS regulators and Kegland Mark IV regulators are identical OEMs...I ask you this:
View attachment 870700
:mug:


Not my picture, but I use that same regulator. To my knowledge the Kegland/Komos are one and the same. Komos is the name used so More Beer can sell them. William's Brewing is the official distributor, so they carry the Kegland version.
 
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It's the 4 screws that your bracket would mount to for a 5lb co2 tank (like in Broken Crow's pic). Like you, I don't use my bracket and removed it since I have a 20lb tank. I don't have any pics as I don't have anything fabbed up just yet.
OK, I think I must have misunderstood. I am still putting all the line parts together so we'll see what I end up with.
 
Also BTW: @Yesfan : I see in your picture, a box labeled "KOMOS Dual Regulator", but I see Kegco regulators.. I've also been over 90% certain that KOMOS regulators and Kegland Mark IV regulators are identical OEMs..
I assume you meant to ask me? The Kegco I bought intending to use it alone. The Komos came with the unit, and it is in the box. I will probably swap them out and use the Komos since the duotight attachments fit it and I would have to make another swap on the kegco.

As for these two being identical. I don't think they are close. They feel different, by weight and construction. The prv's are in different locations too. I don't think they are the same parts.
 
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As for these two being identical. I don't think they are close. They feel different, by weight and construction. The prv's are in different locations too. I don't think they are the same parts.
There are many different models of both Kegland and KOMOS regulators. But everything KOMOS really is rebranded Kegland stuff.
 
Not my picture, but I use that same regulator. To my knowledge the Kegland/Komos are one and the same. Komos is the name used so More Beer can sell them. William's Brewing is the official distributor, so they carry the Kegland version.
I assume you meant to ask me? The Kegco I bought intending to use it alone. The Komos came with the unit, and it is in the box. I will probably swap them out and use the Komos since the duotight attachments fit it and I would have to make another swap on the kegco.

As for these two being identical. I don't think they are close. They feel different, by weight and construction. The prv's are in different locations too. I don't think they are the same parts.
Ooops!
:thumbsup:
EDIT: I forgot to include another tip: Since it's the same base unit, if you want to minimize cycle times and get the longest life out of this unit: Set your temp control to work in Celius...Farenheit is an 'add-on' to a control board that actually operates in metric and as there are more increments in °F, it ends up cycling the compressor more often to try and maintain a finer temp range. Some early models cause a number of issues with over-cyling and prematurely burned out units....best take no chances.
 
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Ooops!
:thumbsup:
EDIT: I forgot to include another tip: Since it's the same base unit, if you want to minimize cycle times and get the longest life out of this unit: Set your temp control to work in Celius...Farenheit is an 'add-on' to a control board that actually operates in metric and as there are more increments in °F, it ends up cycling the compressor more often to try and maintain a finer temp range. Some early models cause a number of issues with over-cyling and prematurely burned out units....best take no chances.
I noticed the LED on the front alternates quickly from 32 to 34 and sometimes the condenser comes on for maybe 2-3 seconds. I assume what you say is why so gonna change to C. Thanks for the info!
 
Ooops!
:thumbsup:
EDIT: I forgot to include another tip: Since it's the same base unit, if you want to minimize cycle times and get the longest life out of this unit: Set your temp control to work in Celius...Farenheit is an 'add-on' to a control board that actually operates in metric and as there are more increments in °F, it ends up cycling the compressor more often to try and maintain a finer temp range. Some early models cause a number of issues with over-cyling and prematurely burned out units....best take no chances.


Meant to do this before when I read about it but forgot. Thanks for the reminder. Changed mine to 5C (41F).
 
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