Please Critique and Offer Comments For My Electric/HERMS Build

[makisupa]

I've been brewing on a propane-based, all-grain brewing system for about a year. I was getting frustrated in inconsistent mash and outdoor temperatures. I wanted to bring my brewing experience indoors and incorporate a HERMS system so I decide to convert my two 10-gal kettles (HLT and BK) to electric while continuing to use my 10-gal, round Rubbermaid cooler (MLT).

Here's what I'm proposing. I've ordered a HLT, MLT, and BK controller from Brewmation.com. This will give me temp controls for both kettles (HLT, BK), monitor for MLT temp, and given me on off controls for my march pumps.

In the HLT, I will install a 5,500 watt heating element and a SS HERMS coil with SS ball valves and camlocks on the exterior side of the coil/kettle. To recirculate the water in the HLT, the kettle will also have a SS ball valves, camlocks, and dip tube, on the bottom and top of the kettle. All tubing will be 1/2" silicone with camlocks. I plan to recirculated the water with a March pump to prevent stratification and keep the temperatures inside the HLT consistent from top to bottom.

The BK will also have a 5,500 watt heating element in it.

Mash Tun: My mash tun is a 10-gal, round Rubbermaid cooler with SS ball valves and camlocks on the top and bottom. The top ball valve connects to a piece of silicone tubing which is used to recirculate the hot wort into the MLT. The bottom of the MLT uses a SS braid and fittings that connect to the lower ball valve. Here, a second march pump will be used to constantly recirculate the wort out through the SS braid/valve, through the HERMS coil, and back into the the MLT.

Questions at this point:
• With the first pump being used to recirculate the HLT water how best to pump the sweet wort through the HERMS? I would guess it would start by slowly opening the lower ball valve on the MLT, feeding the wort into the pump and outputting it to the top of the HERMS coil inlet. Would I simply make another piece of silicone tubing with camlocks that directly connects the lower HERMS coil outlet to the MLT's upper, recirc inlet? Will the pump provide enough pressure to get it all the way around?
• What is everyone's take on the SS braid? I've used it with the March pump and had great results (minus my pumpkin ale batched). However, that was for pumping 5 minuted vorlaufs and transfers to the BK. Do you think I should keep it given the constant recirc or convert it to a false bottom?
• Mashout: How would you conduct a 170-deg mashout with this system if you're use to batch sparging? Would you raise the temp of your HLT to get the mash up to 170 while you're constantly recirculating? Leave it at hat temp for 10 minutes and then transfer your first runnings to the BK? Then batch sparge with same temp water (ultimately, creating a new mash at 170), let it sit then transfer the second runnings? Or, would you simply tell me, "Fly sparge, stupid."

 

[Boar Beer]

• What is everyone's take on the SS braid? I've used it with the March pump and had great results (minus my pumpkin ale batched). However, that was for pumping 5 minuted vorlaufs and transfers to the BK. Do you think I should keep it given the constant recirc or convert it to a false bottom?


We run a false bottom with a round piece of pex tube under the false bottom with 1/4 in holes and a Pex T going to the outlet. It works great. Still you can get a stuck sparge with any set up. I guess i would try the Braid first but i think a real false bottom is what you will end up with.

 

[makisupa]

I like it. It's sort of a braid and false bottom combo. I think I'll heed your advice and continue with the braid-only method and see where it takes me.

Any other responses?

 

[Budzu]

Braids are great for batch sparging, but not for a constant recirc. You really need to make every effort to make sure you are draining evenly. A flat false bottom is the best way. Even better is to add a center bottom drain for the MT.

Make your wort coil inlet on the bottom, and outlet (to the top of grainbed) on the top, so that your wort is going up through the coil. This will minimize travel distance and pressure on the pump.

Yeah you have the idea for hitting mashout. Raise the HLT temp up over 170 if you want to speed it up, and inch it back down as you approach wort temp. You will probably want to recirc faster during this. In general, your HLT temp may need to constantly be 2-4 degrees higher than your target mash temp.

Definitely fly sparge with that setup. It will be easier than batch sparging, as you only need to change a couple of hoses and go.
Change the HLT pump outlet to the bottom of the wort coil, pump the sparge water through the coil and onto the top of the grainbed. This will clean your coil at the same time. Redirect the MT outlet pump into your BK. Now just balance your flow, keep it slow and focus on keeping the liquid in the MT at a consistent level. Or add a float switch in your MT to turn on and off your HLT pump as needed.

PS keep in mind with this 2 pump setup there is no way to continue agitating the water in the HLT during the sparge. I usually turn off the heat on my HERMS and let it drop if it wants. The temp is least important during that stage anyway. I regularly sparge with 140-150 degree water on demand and get mid-90's efficiency in my 1 bbl RIMS setup.

 

[makisupa]

Thank you both for taking the time to read and respond to my post. It's extremely helpful. I'm going to go with a false bottom and arrange my hosings as suggested. I'll also begin fly spraging.I'll follow-up with results and photos in a couple weeks. THANK YOU!