PJ wiring diagram

[nspaldi0]

Like many here, I've been drooling over the electric systems and want to go route. I am in the process of planning a system exactly like the system at this link https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/brewkart-ditches-countertop-brutus-205427/index2.html. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this? I won't be wiring this because that is a skill I don't have but do have an electrical engineering friend who is happy to wire it for me but I'd like to give him a diagram to go off of.

PJ,
Do you have a diagram already for this?

Thanks for the help! Winter is here and this is my latest project. Still need to finish the keezer top! But it never hurts to have multiple projects!

Nick

 

[P-J]

Nick,

I just saw your post and I'm not seeing any layout for you to wire it. Maybe I didn't dig deep enough?

Please tell me exactly what you want to achieve. With that info I'm sure that I can give you a diagram for setting it up.

P-J

 

[shortyjacobs]

From my quick look, he wants a 120V version of this:

(from this post)

He probably meant to link to page one of the thread he linked, not page 2. That system looks like 1 PID, 1 E-Stop, a pump switch and a Heater switch, (no PID switch like you have...dunno how he feels about that bit), PID, pump, and a 2000W element.

 

[nspaldi0]

PJ,

Thanks for the reply. The system in that link is what I want to achieve. It's 120v based with 2 vessels, heat exchanger, 1 pid and one pump. It has 2 switches one for the pump and one for the pid and heating element. On page 2 of that thread, Resslerk posts a picture of his control panel. It's a simple system that I love. Thanks again for any help.

Nick

 

[nspaldi0]

Thanks Shorty. I left out the e-stop in my last post but meant to include it. I assume having separate switches for the PID and element would allow you measure the temperature of wort while chilling. Any other advantages to having a separate switch for PID and element?

Nick

 

[shortyjacobs]

Thanks Shorty. I left out the e-stop in my last post but meant to include it. I assume having separate switches for the PID and element would allow you measure the temperature of wort while chilling. Any other advantages to having a separate switch for PID and element?

Nick

No other advantages, I suppose, although that's one nice one. I just like having separate switches for each step of the operation, that way nothing happens without my expressly permitting it to happen. For example, you might want to set up your parameters in your PID before you let it fire the element...separate switches allow this.

Plus, flipping switches is fun.

 

[nspaldi0]

PJ,

So would that diagram work for what I am looking to do? Do you receive PM's?

Nick

 

[P-J]

PJ,

So would that diagram work for what I am looking to do? Do you receive PM's?

Nick

Yes I do. I'm still not understanding what you want to achieve. Your referenced thread does not help me either as I have no clue about his wiring.

The referenced diagram posted by shortyjacobs is for a BIAB setup.

Please explain what you want to achieve. Details help.

P-J

 

[shortyjacobs]

I think this is what he needs, from studying the other thread....The other thread is a hybrid system with one PID controlling BK element, a pump, E-Stop, and various switches. It runs 120V, 2000W. I modified P-J's diagram, P-J please let me know if I screwed anything up. I'd been considering building something VERY similar to the system in the thread the OP linked, which I think is why I understand what he's asking for...

Just like P-J's pics, click the pic to embiggen.



P-J! One thing I don't know is what resistance the E-Stop button will need to simulate leakage current on a 20A, 120V GCFI....is the 2x 1 kohm, 1W resistor setup still correct?

Edit: Also note that you don't really need the contactor if you go with a different switch....20A, 120V switches are easy to find, so you could skip the relay if desired....

 

[P-J]

shortyjacobs,

Good job modifying the diagram.

My confusion comes with this:

It's 120v based with 2 vessels, heat exchanger, 1 pid and one pump.

Two vessels would mean a HLT and a BOIL kettle. (I think) That would mean 2 heating elements that could be switched depending on the task at hand.

Oh well, If it is what you are understanding, The job is done with your diagram.

Thanks for that. Good Job.!!!

I think I'm done (Confused - but done.).

P-J

 

[shortyjacobs]

shortyjacobs,

Good job modifying the diagram.

My confusion comes with this:

Two vessels would mean a HLT and a BOIL kettle. (I think) That would mean 2 heating elements that could be switched depending on the task at hand.

Oh well, If it is what you are understanding, The job is done with your diagram.

Thanks for that. Good Job.!!!

I think I'm done (Confused - but done.).

P-J

It's two vessels, a MLT and combination HLT/BK.

The element is in the HLT/BK, which also has a copper coil in it.

The system is: you heat water in the HLT/BK, transfer it to the MLT, add grain. Then, add more water to the HLT/BK, which also has a heat exchanger coil, (like HERMS), in it. A pump recircs the mash wort through the coil, while the element in the HLT/BK keeps the water in the HLT/BK at the mash temp, which keeps the wort circulating through the coil at the mash temp.

At the end of mash, the HLT/BK water is drained in to the MLT to "sparge", then the whole mess is pumped up into the BK, where it's boiled, (and chilled using the HERMS coil).

So, two pots, one element, one pump.

Pics are here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/brewkart-ditches-countertop-brutus-205427/

 

[nspaldi0]

Shorty and PJ,

Thanks for all the help. I apologize for the confusion. I wasn't being specific enough with my request. Brew day is consistent with the way Shorty explained it. And I believe the wiring is what i was looking for.

Again I'm sorry for the confusion PJ. I appreciate all you do for this forum.

Nick

 

[SaevaVeritas]

Hey sorry to dredge up an old thread.

I was wondering if this set up would be able to handle 7-10 gallons in a somewhat reasonable timeframe.

I do mostly 5 gallon AG and am looking for a setup that would be functional yet apartment friendly.

Thanks,
Andrew