pH testing

[nolabrew85]

How do y'all test the pH of the mash? Those strips suck, and the meters are expensive (and I have heard many of them are unreliable and break easily). thanks.

 

[cluckk]

The strips are pretty close to useless. I use this. It is far better than strips, though not as good as an expensive table top unit. I just keep its limitations in mind and make sure to calibrate it at the beginning of each brew day, and store it with the proper solution. Yesterday when brewing it would not calibrate, so I popped out the batteries and reinstalled them and it calibrated just fine.

 

[aiptasia]

A simple hydroponic style pH pen with a calibration solution is what you need. They aren't expensive. Eventually, the probes on all pH meters will crap out on you, so you can buy the tabletop ones with the detachable/replaceable probes or you can buy the cheaper handheld pens. Calibrate it every time before you use it and clean the wort/beer off of it well after each use.

 

[nolabrew85]

Thanks, cluck. I was looking at that one.

 

[nolabrew85]

A simple hydroponic style pH pen with a calibration solution is what you need. They aren't expensive. Eventually, the probes on all pH meters will crap out on you, so you can buy the tabletop ones with the detachable/replaceable probes or you can buy the cheaper handheld pens. Calibrate it every time before you use it and clean the wort/beer off of it well after each use.

Do you have a particular brand/model you recommend?

 

[hophop]

I use this one. Works perfectly for me. $13.00.


Etekcity® PH-009 IA High Quality Digital Pocket Pen Type PH Meter & Digital Tester Hydro New
http://amzn.com/B00CH3QZSE

 

[mabrungard]

There are practical discussions on pH meters on Bru'n Water's Facebook page. This is one of those things where you get what you pay for. But you can buy a lot of those pen style meters for what a regular meter for. A major concern with a really cheap meter is that they often only display a resolution of 0.1 units. That is not enough to tell if the reading has stabilized.

Buyer beware.

 

[jeremy0209]

I've never tested the pH of my mash...I just add 10 total grams of Calc Chloride and Gypsum (5/5, 7/3, 3/7...depending on style) and call it good. I arrived at that conclusion by using Bru'n Water and having a water report. My beer seems to be fine and I've even managed to win a few awards. Maybe I just got lucky.

 

[helibrewer]

I've never tested the pH of my mash...I just add 10 total grams of Calc Chloride and Gypsum (5/5, 7/3, 3/7...depending on style) and call it good. I arrived at that conclusion by using Bru'n Water and having a water report. My beer seems to be fine and I've even managed to win a few awards. Maybe I just got lucky.

Do you mostly brew IPA's starting with soft water?

 

[jeremy0209]

Do you mostly brew IPA's starting with soft water?

The water I start off with is soft (I think)....there is no mineral above 2ppm (calcium is 9, hardness is 6), but I brew all over the board and add my salts based on style. They all get a total of 10 grams using Calcium Chloride and Gypsum. IPA's and Pale Ale's get a 7/3 ratio with the Gypsum being 7...Hefeweizens, Saisons, Belgians (yeast driven beers) get an even 5/5 split...Stouts, Porters (dark beers) get a 7/3 ratio with the Calcium Chloride being 7. I've input my water report into Bru'n water as well as Palmer's RA spreadsheet and, based on the data from those two, I've settled on 10 total grams of calcium. I adjust from there for chloride to sulfate ratio. I don't know if it's 'technically' correct, but it works well for me. Also, I'm routinely getting 80% mash efficiency, so must be doing something right. My main goal is to have the proper chloride to sulfate ratio and 100ppm of calcium.

 

[helibrewer]

That's a worthwhile exercise I think. Since I start with RO water and brew mostly lighter (color) styles, I have also been able to simplify my water additions.

 

[mabrungard]

The water I start off with is soft (I think)....there is no mineral above 2ppm (calcium is 9, hardness is 6), but I brew all over the board and add my salts based on style. They all get a total of 10 grams using Calcium Chloride and Gypsum. IPA's and Pale Ale's get a 7/3 ratio with the Gypsum being 7...Hefeweizens, Saisons, Belgians (yeast driven beers) get an even 5/5 split...Stouts, Porters (dark beers) get a 7/3 ratio with the Calcium Chloride being 7. I've input my water report into Bru'n water as well as Palmer's RA spreadsheet and, based on the data from those two, I've settled on 10 total grams of calcium. I adjust from there for chloride to sulfate ratio. I don't know if it's 'technically' correct, but it works well for me. Also, I'm routinely getting 80% mash efficiency, so must be doing something right. My main goal is to have the proper chloride to sulfate ratio and 100ppm of calcium.

I hate to see brewers get hung up on the ratio. It is not that useful and that is especially apparent when looking at water that is intended to exhibit hops and bittering (pale ale profile). If you try to maintain a modest ratio in that case, you will either not add enough sulfate or add too much chloride. When high (100+ ppm) chloride and sulfate are present in brewing water, the potential rises quickly that a 'minerally' flavor will be produced in the finished beer.

Focus more on the actual levels of sulfate and chloride and don't rely solely on their ratio.

 

[jeremy0209]

I hate to see brewers get hung up on the ratio. It is not that useful and that is especially apparent when looking at water that is intended to exhibit hops and bittering (pale ale profile). If you try to maintain a modest ratio in that case, you will either not add enough sulfate or add too much chloride. When high (100+ ppm) chloride and sulfate are present in brewing water, the potential rises quickly that a 'minerally' flavor will be produced in the finished beer.

Focus more on the actual levels of sulfate and chloride and don't rely solely on their ratio.

So what would your ideal numbers be? Are we talking 100 ppm max of each or 100 ppm between the two? I'm definitely open to suggestion and experimentation.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Home Brew mobile app

 

[hophop]

There are practical discussions on pH meters on Bru'n Water's Facebook page. This is one of those things where you get what you pay for. But you can buy a lot of those pen style meters for what a regular meter for. A major concern with a really cheap meter is that they often only display a resolution of 0.1 units. That is not enough to tell if the reading has stabilized.

Buyer beware.

+/- .1 ph is close enough for me and my beer turns out great.