Partigyle Question

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mlyday

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My employer furloughed us for a few weeks toward the end of the year last year, and they plan on doing the same this year. This works great for brewing. Last year I brewed up a recipe I created that I dubbed "furlough pale ale" it turned out awesome. I have upgrade my equipment since then, and plan on doing a 10 gallon batch this time. The OG is somewhere around mid 1.050ish.

I was reading up a little on partigyle brewing, and was wondering if I could get a decent 5 gallon batch off the second runnings of the grain from the 10 gallon batch. Im assuming I could get a little better gravity reading being that there is so much more grain.

I would have some dme as a standby to up the gravity if needed. I think I might try to make a nice clean lager from the second batch.
 

tre9er

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Ideally you want to have a high gravity brew and a low gravity brew. Here's a link that will tell you what you can get out of a beer that yields a certain SG:

http://morebeer.com/brewingtechniques/library/backissues/issue2.2/moshertable.html

Your 1.050 gravity is low enough that you need to do a big beer and then end up with the 1.050 as the second runnings. See this:

1.0670 1.1050 1.0503

You'd make a beer with planned OG of 1.067. The first runnings (1/3) would yield a 1.105 gravity (make an imperial something). The second 2/3 would yield your 1.050 gravity wort. These numbers are expressed in OG after boil, so plan a large brew to be 1.067 to start. I have a recipe I did partigyle if you want to see it in practice.
 
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mlyday

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Yeah thats what I thought, but I wasnt sure with the second batch being only 5 gallons with all that grain.
 
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mlyday

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Id like to see that recipe. I want 10 gallons of my 1.050 beer. So your saying I could probably make a really strong beer first and have the 1.050 as the second runnings.
 
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mlyday

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Looks like if I brew the first one normally, I should be able to get the second running to 1.035. With some DME I should be able to kick it up. I dont want to screw with the inital beer, since I really like it.

I will be making an RIS soon, and can see myself getting a stout or a porter out of it using this method.
 

tre9er

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Id like to see that recipe. I want 10 gallons of my 1.050 beer. So your saying I could probably make a really strong beer first and have the 1.050 as the second runnings.
Yes, you'd make 5g of a big beer and 10g of 1.050 beer.

Here was mine:

8.5g batch, using 2g/hr boiloff (since you'll have two boils at 1g/hr each...or whatever your boiloff rate is)

American 2-row 16lbs
American Crystal 40 1lbs
Efficiency 72%
Estimated OG 1.052

First 1/3 yields just under 3g. 1.078 (made a IIPA)
Second 2/3 yields just over 5.5g 1.039 (made a Kolsch)

I collected 10.8g after the mash. 4g. went to the IIPA, 6.8 went to the Kolsch. After boiloff there was the ~3g and the ~5.5g.

What I did was to work backwards on volumes. I knew I needed 4+g and 6.5+g pre-boil. So I made 8.5 final volume with 2g/hr boiloff and saw that the preboil would be enough for both batches, 10.8g.

I know that's confusing, but I'm willing to explain the fuzzy parts. :D
 
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mlyday

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So If Im buying my grains and I want five gallons of a imperial Somthing or another and 10 gallons of my pale ale. I need enought grains to make 15 gallons of a beer in the 1.075 area ( I can calculate later). The first running will be in the 1.090-1.100 range and the rest around 1.055.

If I dont up the grain on the front side I have to suppliment with dme on the backside.
 
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mlyday

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I really like the idea of getting an strong beer out of this to age for a while. Maybe a nice german lager.

Im torn, because I could brew it regular and then use the really week wort and add some steeping grains and the right hops and make a nice scottish 60.
 

tre9er

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So If Im buying my grains and I want five gallons of a imperial Somthing or another and 10 gallons of my pale ale. I need enought grains to make 15 gallons of a beer in the 1.075 area ( I can calculate later). The first running will be in the 1.090-1.100 range and the rest around 1.055.

If I dont up the grain on the front side I have to suppliment with dme on the backside.
Yes. Key is what I said about boiloff though. You want to end up with 15 gallons after boiling off double your usual rate, so up the preboil accordingly, making sure the gravity stays the same for the partigyle recipe.

Then you just run off how much preboil volume you need for the big beer, stop, run off how much you need for the smaller beer, boil both, voila.
 
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mlyday

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Yep. So id pull around six gallons of the first runnings. Then about 11ish gallons for the second.
 

tre9er

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Yep. So id pull around six gallons of the first runnings. Then about 11ish gallons for the second.
Right, so if you work backwards, that's 17 gallons plus your absorption for the mash equals how much water you need for strike and sparge. I mash thin, always strike with same amount as sparge. Makes things easy to remember.
 

tre9er

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I guess its a good thing i have two burners and two big kettles.
Yeah, 8.5g of strike, 8.5g of sparge, roughly. I can't heat that much unless I use my kettle instead of my HLT, which I could do, but I'd have to run off first runnings into a bucket until I got the sparge water out of the kettle.
 
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mlyday

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I have a 15 an 8 and a 5 gallon pot. The most of the water will be heated initally on the the big pot and burner. Roughly half will go into the mash tun the other half into the medium size pot to keep warm for the sparge. I may need a gallon or two extra which I could probably have going on the stove.
 

tre9er

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Similar here, 12.25g e-kettle (Euro Keg), 8g. e-HLT, 7.5g. turkey fryer pot, and various 1-2g pots for quick boiling water. I need to get a single burner (hot plate) for the basement now so I don't have to run upstairs in a panic when I need boiling water.
 

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