Partial Mash

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woosterhoot

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This has probably been asked a thousand times, but what the hey. I'm preparing to do my first partial mash. In Papizian's book he says to test the wort for starch conversion with some iodine. What happens if it doesn't convert? Do you have to start over with new grain or just keep the temp at 150 -160 and let it sit longer?
 
You should be fine, dont worry about the test. Just make sure you try and hit your temps right. Make sure you are using grains that can self convert.
 
Definitely test for conversion. This is a key test when you are starting out or trying new recipes. You will most likely have no problems unless your water is unusual or you are brewing very pale or very dark beers but if you do run into problems knowing whether you had complete conversion or not will help you troubleshoot. If conversion is incomplete after your mash you can let it go longer but the enzymes are denaturing over time so the rate of conversion is continually slowing down.

Some pointers on doing the test. You only need a drop of fluid from your mash. Try not to get grains or much debris in it. Place it on a white background and add a drop of iodine to it and swirl it around. Starch will turn dark purple/black. There will always be some starch granules and small grain debris that will turn black. What you are interested in however is the liquid portion with the dissolved starch which should turn the same color as the iodine you added. The first few times you do it start checking right at the beginning of your mash and then every time you stir it, this will help you distinguish the solution change from the always present undissolved starch. At the same time taste the fluid, it will become noticeably sweeter as the mash proceeds!
 
I don't test for starch conversion, but if you choose to, you can probably use Iodaphor sanitizer in place of iodine. Iodaphor is iodine based and does stain starch black/blue.
 
Unclesamskid said:
I don't test for starch conversion, but if you choose to, you can probably use Iodaphor sanitizer in place of iodine. Iodaphor is iodine based and does stain starch black/blue.

I'll second that, a small amount of Iodophore will accuratly assist you with a starch conversion test.

I'm in the camp that doesn't do such a test, a single infusion mash for 60-70 minutes has worked fine thus far.
 
I say do it if you have Iodophor, the practice may come in handy later. If not, don't worry about for your first partial mash, you will have enough to worry about.
 
Got Trub? said:
Definitely test for conversion. This is a key test when you are starting out or trying new recipes. You will most likely have no problems unless your water is unusual or you are brewing very pale or very dark beers but if you do run into problems knowing whether you had complete conversion or not will help you troubleshoot. If conversion is incomplete after your mash you can let it go longer but the enzymes are denaturing over time so the rate of conversion is continually slowing down.

Some pointers on doing the test. You only need a drop of fluid from your mash. Try not to get grains or much debris in it. Place it on a white background and add a drop of iodine to it and swirl it around. Starch will turn dark purple/black. There will always be some starch granules and small grain debris that will turn black. What you are interested in however is the liquid portion with the dissolved starch which should turn the same color as the iodine you added. The first few times you do it start checking right at the beginning of your mash and then every time you stir it, this will help you distinguish the solution change from the always present undissolved starch. At the same time taste the fluid, it will become noticeably sweeter as the mash proceeds!
Thank you for the info. I will do the test as a matter of good practice to prepare me for all grain. Do you think that I need to test the ph of the water, I'm going to use some spring water instead of tap.
 
woosterhoot said:
Thank you for the info. I will do the test as a matter of good practice to prepare me for all grain. Do you think that I need to test the ph of the water, I'm going to use some spring water instead of tap.

The pH of your water is not what interests you - it is the pH of the mash that is key and that is determined by many other constituents of your water and the grains you use.

I would only use spring water if you know or suspect there is an issue with your tap water. If your water tastes good and doesn't have chlorine or chloramine in it I would use that first.

Just go ahead and do it! Worry about the other stuff later once you get into AG and beer styles that are more critically dependant on your water...
 
Got Trub? said:
The pH of your water is not what interests you - it is the pH of the mash that is key and that is determined by many other constituents of your water and the grains you use.

I would only use spring water if you know or suspect there is an issue with your tap water. If your water tastes good and doesn't have chlorine or chloramine in it I would use that first.

Just go ahead and do it! Worry about the other stuff later once you get into AG and beer styles that are more critically dependant on your water...
Im a contractor who works on municipal water and wastewater plants. So I don't know where the spring water comes from, which makes it seem better lol:drunk: . One last question, I've read the wiki and am not sure whether to do a single step mash at 150 or to try doing the step mash going 130, 150, 168. Im doing a 5 gallon batch and with all those step additions and then sparging that seems like alot of water. Im going to do a stout. The reciepe has the steps in it, but I think that there assuming youre doing it on youre stovetop where you can control tempature without adding water. I am going to use a cooler cause I have a electric stove and the temperature fluctuates 10-15 degrees if measured accurately.
 
A single step infusion mash will work for the vast majority of recipes. There are a few styles where a protein rest (the 130 step) will improve the beer and slightly increase your efficiency but it is not necessary. The mash out at 168 again will slightly effect the body of your beer and also increase efficiency but again not necessary.

For your first mash I would recommend a single step infusion to your sacharification temperature of 150 and then a batch spatch to collect your wort. This is the simplest way to do it with the least amount of equipment. The amount of water you use can be pretty much the same no matter how you do it. I have both batch and fly sparged and always do it to a final wort volume. If I'm short of my gravity target I make it up with a small amount of DME.
 
My LHBS guy told me for the conversion test just stick your finger in the mash and if it taste sweet youve got conversion. He said that todays grains are so modified that you dont really have to worry about it.
 
Thank you for all the information. I think I'm ready for partial mash. I will do the infusion mash for simplicity. Maybe I'll try the step on the next one when I get the process down alittle
 
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