Partial grain partial extract brew

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Andy Bullock

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I was hoping to do a little bit of my own flavoring by using some grain in a BIAB, but then adding a DME or LME to get me a higher OG than what I can get using grains without a mash tun. 5 gallon kettle so not near big enough for a full boil. A couple of questions:

1. Is there anything I should worry about with only doing a partial boil with steeping the grains, and adding the LME toward the end of the boil.
2. Any real reason I need a 60 minute boil if I'm not hopping until 15min?
3. Should I only cool wert to ~80-90 because I'll be adding a couple gallons of water to the carboy?

Thanks as always!
 

Jag75

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Your doing all grain or is it just steeping grains and LME because you said you were doing BIAB but then at the end you say you will add water to get you 5 gallons . So I'm guessing your doing extract with steeping grains.

1.) No. Dont boil the grains though. Steep at 156f for about 20 min.
2.) Some dont boil for a full 60
3.) Yes , when I've done extracts in the past I've added chilled top off water to help getting to pitching temp quickly
 
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Andy Bullock

Andy Bullock

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Your doing all grain or is it just steeping grains and LME because you said you were doing BIAB but then at the end you say you will add water to get you 5 gallons . So I'm guessing your doing extract with steeping grains.

1.) No. Dont boil the grains though. Steep at 156f for about 20 min.
2.) Some dont boil for a full 60
3.) Yes , when I've done extracts in the past I've added chilled top off water to help getting to pitching temp quickly
Sorry, should have been more clear about the BIAB. I'm going to have around 5lbs of grains, a pound of wheat DME and 3.15lbs of LME. I only said BIAB because I'm going to have to use one of the bags to fit that much grain without having to strain it multiple times.
 

Jag75

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What grains are you using ? If your using milled grains like 2 row ect then your doing all grain biab and you would mash for 60 min
 
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Andy Bullock

Andy Bullock

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What grains are you using ? If your using milled grains like 2 row ect then your doing all grain biab and you would mash for 60 min
Yes, 2-row, carapils, and oats - the plan was to throw the grain in the bag, get it up to 150-160 for 45-hour then move on to the LME and boil it - I was asking about the boil process I'm used to with LME and hop additions throughout the 60 minute boil. Pretty sure the answer is probably "boil the LME for a few minutes and you're good"
 

BrewnWKopperKat

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I was hoping to do a little bit of my own flavoring by using some grain in a BIAB, but then adding a DME or LME to get me a higher OG than what I can get using grains without a mash tun. 5 gallon kettle so not near big enough for a full boil.
What you are describing using BIAB is also known as a partial mash (or a mini-mash).

The rest of the process looks similar to a partial boil with late extract additions. Boil 1/2 the wort in 1/2 the water, add the rest of the DME/LME and water at the end of the boil. The first chapters of How To Brew, 4e would be a good source of additional information.
 

RM-MN

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Yes, 2-row, carapils, and oats - the plan was to throw the grain in the bag, get it up to 150-160 for 45-hour then move on to the LME and boil it - I was asking about the boil process I'm used to with LME and hop additions throughout the 60 minute boil. Pretty sure the answer is probably "boil the LME for a few minutes and you're good"
Dumb suggestion: Drop the carapils. The LME and DME probably both have carapils as part of their mix of grains. You don't really need more. Carapils is often added to recipes to promote heading. I haven't used it for years and I still get good heading.

The hop additions need to be boiled as that process causes the hop oils to isomerize which causes bitterness. The LME will be pasteurized before packaging so you don't need to boil it again, just add it to the hot wort and mix it in. The heat of the wort will kill off any bacteria you add when you mix in the LME.
 

BrewnWKopperKat

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he LME will be pasteurized before packaging so you don't need to boil it again, just add it to the hot wort and mix it in. The heat of the wort will kill off any bacteria you add when you mix in the LME.
wikipedia said:
Pasteurization or pasteurisation is a process in which packaged and non-packaged foods are treated with mild heat to eliminate pathogens
Agreed, (re)pasteurization is a good thing. Adding the LME/LME near to the end (or at the end) of the boil ensures that there is enough heat to 'get the job done'.

"Stay thirsty Brew safely, my friends"
 

balrog

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What you describe @Andy Bullock is exactly partial boil with steeping grains.

To your question about boil time -- and I do this all the time -- you only need to boil 15m if you are not adding hops until 15m, but you will have to use a calc to know what bitterness you are getting for shorter boil, and in your case, less water. Hop utilization goes down with smaller water boil volume. But not by huge amount like 90% less. See this for instance or Google some.

In short, I've done it many times when I still did extract. It works fine.
 
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Andy Bullock

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Dumb suggestion: Drop the carapils. The LME and DME probably both have carapils as part of their mix of grains. You don't really need more. Carapils is often added to recipes to promote heading. I haven't used it for years and I still get good heading.

The hop additions need to be boiled as that process causes the hop oils to isomerize which causes bitterness. The LME will be pasteurized before packaging so you don't need to boil it again, just add it to the hot wort and mix it in. The heat of the wort will kill off any bacteria you add when you mix in the LME.
Not a dumb suggestion! I actually thought about this because I know the LME DOES have a small amount of carapils. The hop additions in this particular brew will probably only boil for a few minutes as to not raise the IBUs too high.
 

BrewnWKopperKat

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An interesting link to a republished article from Brewing Techniques magazine (https://www.homebrewfinds.com/2012/05/brewing-techniques-magazine.html):
Brewing Techniques Magazine was published from 1993 to 1999. It was full of great articles on homebrewing. Unfortunately it is now defunct.

In 2012, MoreBeer purchased the entire back stock of printed magazines. Those are available in the Homebrewing Books & Magazines section of MoreBeer’s website. They are mostly on page 2 of that section.
(https://www.homebrewfinds.com/2012/05/brewing-techniques-magazine.html)

However, it is disappointing that morebeer.com didn't include a "Originally published on" date for these articles.
 
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