Parks super Glaze bar top epoxy

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jtd_1

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This stuff is sold at Home Depot. Anyone have any experience with it? Pros/Cons?
Website/info

http://www.newparks.com/parksclear-pg.html

Parks Super Glaze

Super Glaze Pour-On Finish and Preservative is an ultra-thick, high gloss, crystal clear epoxy that provides maximum durability. It is ideal as a water proof finish for table and bar tops. Also it is great for crafts and refinishing furniture and can be used over almost any interior surface; from rough and unfinished to stained, painted, or smooth surfaces. It can finish bar tops, table tops, game boards, clocks, plaques, and ceramics. Also it preserves items by encasing them in Super Glaze – pictures, fabric, coins, shells, etc. can be embedded with two applications of Super Glaze. A quart covers 6.4 square feet.
 

MMTG

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Hmmm, I may have to check this out(I'm planning on bottle capping my bar top) how much does a quart run and is it available in gallon sizes?
 
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jtd_1

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a quart runs $23. I think i may have found a better option for value at the following site:
http://www.shopmaninc.com/kk121.html

I was going to use the home depot stuff because i planned on being ready this weekend for that part of my project. I recieved my chicago bar rail molding from Baird Brothers in the mail today and it has some minor damage. I just sent them an email, and awaiting response for remedial action. Now, i may order the epoxy from that site because it may get pushed back until next weekend (hopefully at the latest).

Joe
 

slakwhere

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let us know how that shopmaniac stuff works out. seems economical enough to use if it works!
 

MMTG

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a quart runs $23. I think i may have found a better option for value at the following site:
http://www.shopmaninc.com/kk121.html

I was going to use the home depot stuff because i planned on being ready this weekend for that part of my project. I recieved my chicago bar rail molding from Baird Brothers in the mail today and it has some minor damage. I just sent them an email, and awaiting response for remedial action. Now, i may order the epoxy from that site because it may get pushed back until next weekend (hopefully at the latest).

Joe

Please let me know how this klear kote works for you as Its preety economical.
 

brrman

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JTD - I got my rail from Baird Bros as well. Sorry to hear it was damaged.

Menards sells a good epoxy product called "Envirotech". I used it on my bartop.
 
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jtd_1

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I just got a response from Baird Bros, they are going to ship out replacements today.

So it looks as though i am going to try the Klear Kote, as i have time to wait now.
looks like next weekend.

Thanks for the responses.

Joe
 
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jtd_1

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I just got my replacements from baird bros. Good quality stuff. Although it is what i expected to recieve first, they sent out replacements right away. Good business in my book. I decided to go with the klear kote, should get that on friday. hopefully have it poured by sunday. Once complete i will post a ton of pics!

Cheers!
 

pickles

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I'm a woodworker and coinsedentally I'm building some tables for a local restaraunt and they've asked me to find an affordable alternative to Mirror Coat and I'm using Klear Kote. I can tell you how my test performs in a commercial setting in about two weeks. I've used mirror coat before and one trick is to gently heat the poured surface with a torch to get out air bubbles, I'm assuming this product will react similarly.
 

Pash91

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We used this stuff to build our bartop. It spreads really really thick. Mix it for way longer than it says because we had to scrape it off and reapply it. Ended up paying WAY too much than we should have to do the top. It's great, just wish it wasn't so damn expensive
 
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jtd_1

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are you talking about parks super glaze, or klear kote sold from U.S. composites?
 

pickles

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I have two gallons of it but client has given the go ahead to make the prototype (ie paid for it). But i think it'll happen in about two weeks; sorry.
 

Mose

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I used the parks on a couple cutting board things I tried to build. After I completed them I decided I wasn't comfortable cutting on them, chips in the food and all.

I mixed it in two equal batches and the second was a bit thin and never set up. I would recomend a full mix or good syringes or pumps to make all things equal. I used the measuring cups but it just didn't set right.

+1 on having a torch nearby to heat. I think I blow dryer may work as well but be carefull not to push waves if it is poured thin.

I have used West Systems epoxy for a boat I restored and they have some good products. Not the cheapest in town but good stuff. They have some especially designed for clear coating that does not use the thickner, typically very fine saw dust. It soaks into the wood penetrating and sealing to prevent any liquid getting in or out, so your moisture content will never change. UV is not friendly to it, so if it's exposed to much light coat with a UV protectant.

So I would say that having used both I would go back to West System and use it over the parks stuff, not necessarily a bad product but not what I was accustomed to. Oh yea, I was pouring the Parks at about 3/16th I think. The west system was not being applied that thick. West System sets pretty fast in warm conditions so be ready to work.
 
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jtd_1

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I am sorry for the delay to the post,

I havent had any time to work on my build so i havent applied the Klear Kote. Life is getting in the way (military and school). Haha. I will finish my degree in june and i plan on resuming work on the build then. Once again i apologize. I will post results as soon as i can!

Cheers,

Joe
 

ccdoggy

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I just wanted to say something for the Kleer Koat. I ended up using it as a finish on a rather large subwoofer. I initially sanded, primed, and then sprayed the entire box with Krylon (i believe) Oil Rubbed Bronz paint. it looked pretty good. i then spent about a week applying the Kleer Koat, which turned out pretty darn good.

Its a great product and I got it to do exactly what i expected, given its not perfect but i think part of it is the manner in which i applied it and well it took some experimenting to get it right.

Pro-tip, DONT take a torch to it right away to get rid of the bubbles, wait about 45 min to do so. there will be less of them and if you heat it right away and try to get all of them you end up heating the surface and making it cure a little quicker so you get bubble divets (sp).

I used 3/4 of a gallon on a box that is 3' x 3' x 2'. good and thick but thats what this product likes to get even and flat.

I had no problems mixing it just make sure to get rid of all the grey/milky lines in it as mixing it very important.

I mixed via weight and it turned out great, even though the epoxy weighs more per volume then the hardener so essentially i was mixing extra hardener in each batch.

I would not hesitate for a second to reccomend this produst, though it needs to be respected and understand it is not an easy thing to do.

Also dust is this stuffs worst enemy.

I bought mine through IllStreet and would recommend against it, it took me a few weeks to get the stuff as they were out which the site did not reflect.
 

ddknight

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Just saw this thread and thought I'd list my experience with the epoxy. I built a bar for my basement about 2 years ago and constructed it from an old door I salvaged from an old family farmhouse. In order to make it stand out I used the Kleer Koat epoxy from US Composite. I believe I ordered a total of 3 gallons of the stuff because I had to put multiple layers on to fill the panel sections of the door and then a final coat to make everything nice and level.

This was my first time ever doing anything like this and it went super smooth and easy. I just followed their directions and it came together without problems. I used the propane torch to get rid of bubbles but there wasn't too many I had to worry about. I did get the little spreaders they sell at US Composite as well and that helped to spread things out. It is all self leveling so it makes things very easy. The bar itself was about 6' or so long and about 3' wide if I were to guess. I was even able to easily place the door keys and an old photo of the farm on the door itself and then coat the whole thing with epoxy securing them in there for good.

Hopefully the pictures I'm trying to attach can show a little of the bar top. I also used some of the left over epoxy to finish the top of a bar back I built behind the bar as well.

bar top.jpg

bar top 2.jpg

bar top 3.jpg
 

AlchemyBrewing

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Any one try this with coasters? I tried this once before with regular varithane.... bad idea. I am hoping this works better.
 

roadwarrior

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I put this glaze on a laundry room counter top. I poured bottle for bottle so exact measure and stirred longer than required time. Have no bubbles. 3 months later some places on long counter are dried but most is tacky to touch. Anyone know how to fix this?
 

ddknight

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Seems strange. I had no problems with the epoxy I used but it was not Parks. The pics I posted a few years ago are still what things look like today with no problems. It would seem there's a problem with the amounts mixed together but from your post that would seem odd if a whole bottle of each was used. Only solution I can think of is to scrape or sand off the coat and put a new one on - maybe with a different brand and see if that works. I used Kleer Koat epoxy from US Composite. Good luck!
 

thesilks02

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We used this product and we are left with a lot of blemishes in the surface we applied it to. Is there a way that we can fix this without buying more of this product? Is there anyone who has the answer to our problem?
 

Pash91

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We had to rip ours off with a putty knife when it didn't dry properly. It scratched the wood of the bar, but it looked like tiger claws, so we always had a good story when people would ask.
 
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