Papaya Enzyme in brut IPA

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Joewalla88

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This may be a bad idea, but I'm going to brew another brut IPA, and had a thought of how to capture the champagne crispness I've been looking for. I've been able to get mine down to 1.000 or so but I feel like it could be crisper and dryer. I was thinking and using an enzyme with lots protease would thin it out a bit and help me achieve a more sparkling style carbonation and head as opposed to foamy and creamy. Does that make sense, and does this idea have any merit at all?
 
Well, it sounds to me like your solution would be a good water profile (low sodium, low chloride, high sulfate, moderate to high magnesium, proper pH). I think any other attempted solution would yield disappointing results.
 
I would not use papaya extract, it absolutely kills head retention and makes for an extremely thin and often astringent character.

For a bone-dry Brut, use amyloglucosidase enzyme and mash low (145-47F) with a good portion of rice flakes or even wheat starch. No caramel malts or toasted malts (munich, ect).
 
I would not use papaya extract, it absolutely kills head retention and makes for an extremely thin and often astringent character.

For a bone-dry Brut, use amyloglucosidase enzyme and mash low (145-47F) with a good portion of rice flakes or even wheat starch. No caramel malts or toasted malts (munich, ect).
I can get it dry with glucoamylase that's not the issue. But thanks for the heads up on papaya enzyme. Maybe I just need to jack up the CO2 volume? I just want something that drinks like champagne but tastes like IPA. Maybe I just need more fizz.
 
Champagne's are typically charged up to 6 volumes of CO2 (yikes!)
If that's what you're looking for please be careful getting there as the pressure will be in the neighborhood of 50 psi...

Cheers!
 
I dont think I'll go quite that high, but I've been carbing them at the normal 2-2.5 range. Just my standard beer range. Maybe I need to go more 4ish? 4.5?
Champagne's are typically charged up to 6 volumes of CO2 (yikes!)
If that's what you're looking for please be careful getting there as the pressure will be in the neighborhood of 50 psi...

Cheers!
 
If you are carbing kegs you could try boosting the level giving enough time to creep upwards and see if it keeps getting "better".
I don't even want to suggest there's a similar path for bottling...

Cheers!
 
I'm kegging, so I'm not too worried. Maybe lambic or cider levels will work.
If you are carbing kegs you could try boosting the level giving enough time to creep upwards and see if it keeps getting "better".
I don't even want to suggest there's a similar path for bottling...

Cheers!
 
Right then, I suggest carbing to 3 full volumes to start, take some sensory notes, then go for 4. That should be enough to tell you if the trend is in the right direction. Then you can just keep pushing it 'til you get that sharpness you're looking for.

Note sans FC faucets you'll likely test the tuning of your dispensing system in the offing. If you blow up your pours the point will definitely be lost...

Cheers!
 
What if I carb up, and after a week or so, hit the pressure relief and go down to the serving pressure, does that not work?
Right then, I suggest carbing to 3 full volumes to start, take some sensory notes, then go for 4. That should be enough to tell you if the trend is in the right direction. Then you can just keep pushing it 'til you get that sharpness you're looking for.

Note sans FC faucets you'll likely test the tuning of your dispensing system in the offing. If you blow up your pours the point will definitely be lost...

Cheers!
 
Have you ever unscrewed the top of a clear soda bottle and observed what happens?

That's pretty much the same paradigm: the beer will try to equalize its carbonation level with its environment. So, say, if you carbed to 4 volumes and decreased the dispensing pressure to 2.5 volumes, the beer will immediately start outgassing CO2 to re-reach equilibrium at the lower environmental pressure (at 40°F for example that would be going from 29 psi down to 12). If you let the system sit the lines will fill with CO2 and I expect the pours - at least the first - would be problematic at best.

It's pretty much the same situation as a significantly over-carbed keg on a system that wasn't tuned for it...

Cheers!
 
Got it. Thanks, for some reason I always thought that once its absorbed in to the solution it is what it is. To be honest, I've only been kegging a couple years and haven't messed with CO2 volume much at all. I've just run it the same for every batch. My main concern is that I have four kegs and only one regulator, so I cant have them all going at 4, or at least that's not what I want.
Have you ever unscrewed the top of a clear soda bottle and observed what happens?

That's pretty much the same paradigm: the beer will try to equalize its carbonation level with its environment. So, say, if you carbed to 4 volumes and decreased the dispensing pressure to 2.5 volumes, the beer will immediately start outgassing CO2 to re-reach equilibrium at the lower environmental pressure (at 40°F for example that would be going from 29 psi down to 12). If you let the system sit the lines will fill with CO2 and I expect the pours - at least the first - would be problematic at best.

It's pretty much the same situation as a significantly over-carbed keg on a system that wasn't tuned for it...

Cheers!
 
I've also been keg priking lately too, because I was tired of having issues with leaks. I think they're pretty much fixed now but I get paranoid.
 
doesn't the enzymes in papaya break down protein? so a rest at 125f during the mash? i have to do it with my homemalt or i end up with plant milk beer.....
 
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