Willygilly
Well-Known Member
I hate to blame on anything, but if there is anything I guess I could say it's due to my absent mindedness at age 68.
at age 68.
Suspended yeast will make a beer appear darker than it actually is until fermentation is totally complete and most of the yeast has flocculated and the beer has cleared.
i'd usually call that opaque though? kinda whitish?
Suspended yeast will make a beer appear darker than it actually is…
Maybe I should say “can make” instead of “will make”… depending on recipe. It definitely prohibits light from passing through.
Fruit bomb? Do you mean esters or actual fruit. If esters, I’d say no because high dissolved oxygen levels in the wort tend to inhibit ester formation, whereas high sugar concentrations increase ester levels. Higher alcohol beers tend to be marked by high ester levels, too. If fruit, yes, depending on how and when the fruit is added. Dumped in and splashed when fermentation is complete or splashing into a secondary would definitely increase the risk.on that note, you know more about brewing then me...if it's a fruit bomb, would that leave it MORE susceptible to oxidation? i've had this same sorta thing happen to me with fruit bombs...
edit: which would bring up the question what temp was it fermented at?
Yes, I guess that must be it. Thanks!Did the kit have a high gravity boil then top off with water? If so, wort often darkens with this, making many pale ales turn into ambers.
Storing your CBW®
While you can’t change the way the your extract was shipped to your local homebrew store or even how they stored the product, you can check the date to ensure you are getting the freshest product available and then properly store at your home.
When properly stored, LMEs will keep for two years, and DMEs have an even longer shelf life. If you purchase an LME and do not intend on using it right away, a safe option is to place it in your freezer. This will keep the integrity of the malt extract without changes in flavor or color. However, you’ll want to keep in mind that the second you pull it out of the freezer you will be exposing it to a drastic temperature change and will want to use it right away.
Something to consider: CO2 is produced during fermentation and a combination of CO2 and O2 exit through the airlock. So after fermentation has started, the O2 concentration in the headspace will be greater with a larger headspace.Atmospheric pressure is what would cause oxygen to be forced into the homebrew solution. The volume of air above the surface of the solution doesn't matter because the pressure on the surface is the same everywhere. The area at the surface of the solution is what will determine the rate at which O2 will diffuse into the solution. So, since the vessel I am using has a reasonable inside diameter and is similar to any other vessel that might be used for homebrewing the amount of O2 that diffuses into the solution will be typical.
You make a very interesting and potentially significant point. There is a lot of effort made by brewers to keep air out of the fermenter headspace. Some draw off samples while keeping low CO2 pressure on the headspace to exclude air. Some siphon off the beer through the airlock hole to keep air entry to a minimum. Personally, I use a 7.9 gallon bucket fermenter for 5 gallons of beer - more than most. And I take my early gravity samples by removing the lid and gently dipping a cup into the beer - not considered optimum. If your idea of O2 concentration not affecting absorption is correct, much of the effort being made might not be necessary. I'm not a chemist and can't really say.O2 will only diffuse into the solution if there is increased pressure in the vessel, but the airlock is releasing internal gases and the internal pressure remains the same; atmospheric. Still the vessel volume plays no role in O2 absorption in the solution.
OP still hasn’t provided the 5 gallon recipe used… we have no idea what the ingredients were, let alone AG or extract.In addition to LME darkening as it ages, the way one uses it on brew day will darken it more. That is why many brewers will hold half the extract for a late addition In the boil. Remembering to turn off the heat source and move the kettle off the hot rack prevents burning the extract. Pardon me if this was allready discussed. I didn’t notice in a quick perusal of the thread.
But what about that number from BBR (Aug 25 & Nov 17 2005) where it is stated that extract darkens about one SRM during a 45 minute boil? It's a number that's been confirmed with DME. My first attempt at confirming it with LME started with light red colored pilsen LMEIn addition to LME darkening as it ages, the way one uses it on brew day will darken it more. That is why many brewers will hold half the extract for a late addition In the boil.
See my post above yours.But what about that number from BBR (Aug 25 & Nov 17 2005) where it is stated that extract darkens about one SRM during a 45 minute boil? It's a number that's been confirmed with DME. My first attempt at confirming it with LME started with light red colored pilsen LME (full stop).
OP still hasn’t provided the 5 gallon recipe used… we have no idea what the ingredients were, let alone AG or extract.
we have no idea what the ingredients were, let alone AG or extract.
a troubleshooters guide to "darker than expected" extract-based beer
or most steps, if the answer to the question is "no", troubleshooting probably ends and speculation probably begins.
- is a sufficiently compelete recipe, process, and brew day notes available?
- If there is LME in the recipe, is the pre-boil color of the LME known [3]?
- Is the beer clear?
- Is the beer being evaluated properly?
- comparing to another beer of known color using the same glass style, light, ... ?
- appropriately estimating SRM?
- Is the recipe able to deliver the estimated SRM [4]?
- ...
Statements that can be considered 'facts' when troubleshooting:
and some statements that are believed to be correct
- during the boil, wort will darken about 1 SRM [1]
- with DME/LME, as SG goes up, SRM goes up. [2]
- ...
- concentrated boils produce darker wort
- ...
[1] BBR podcasts Aug 25, 2005 / Nov 17 2005
[2] Briess DME/LME product information sheets
[3] one way to measure it: BYO Big Book of Homebrewing, 1e, p 19 (?).
[4] mistakes in recipe conversion, very light colors are 'challenging', concentrated boil (?), ...
So what ever became of this. I've never seen any instructions or recipe from you. All there is the picture of the kit contents which don't give any specifics. Not that I really expect the recipe in the kit to give any specifics. But there is some hope.Oh... woops. Wrong kit instructions. Actually made with a 5 gal pale ale kit
O2 will only diffuse into the solution if there is increased pressure in the vessel,
I hate to blame on anything, but if there is anything I guess I could say it's due to my absent mindedness at age 68.
I noticed that yesterday just before I posted this (below) elsewhere. Some of my posts here have been in response to specific troubleshooting steps in this process.
Hahaha... well I am just thankful I'm still able to enjoy family and friends. This brewing hobby helps to provide a little entertainment and something to do, so I'll keep chugging along. Thanks for the spiritual advise.There's your problem right there!...You are definitely not drinking enough beer...at your age you shouldn't have a mind left!...absent or not you still have one, so drink up Buddy! Drown that st##!
It would be helpful to know what the boil volume is. If it's significantly dense, it will trap heat at the bottom of the pot and darken at an accelerated rate. That's why white table sugar will turn into a medium brown caramel color in a matter of minutes.In addition to LME darkening as it ages, the way one uses it on brew day will darken it more. That is why many brewers will hold half the extract for a late addition In the boil. Remembering to turn off the heat source and move the kettle off the hot rack prevents burning the extract. Pardon me if this was allready discussed. I didn’t notice in a quick perusal of the thread.