Pale ale end gravity 1020?!

[BrettPreston]

Hi all.

So, I have brewed an extract kit.

Pale ale by simply.

It went in 8 days ago, in primary, lots of actions and bubbles. I've check for the last three days as all settled down and it has not moved from 1020. Its start gravity was around 1040/42.

Now, my plan was to put brew in gallon Demi's for secondary, one with fruit, one with hops and honey and another with lemon and coriander. The remaining bottle up.

Should I go ahead with my plan or should I add more yeast or just do my plan, hope the additional flavours help it further?

Could I go ahead with my plan and also add a little yeast to help it along it's way?

To recap..

Extract kit - pale ale by simply.
Start gravity - 1042
End primary gravity 1020.

Been in primary for 8/9 days.

To do next...


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[eadavis80]

Seems to me if you have 2 straight gravity readings reading the same thing that were taken 3 days apart, it's done. If you look, you'll see some complain of the "1.020 curse" for extract brews. I had one brew that wouldn't seem to get below that and after rousing the yeast it still didn't want to lower. So, I added some champagne yeast. It did lower it by a half dozen or so points, but also dried out the beer more than I'd like. That being said, I put one bottle away and three months later drank it and it was a lot smoother. So, you COULD add more yeast, but have you tried to warm up the fermenter any? That might get the yeast going some too. What temp is it at? If you're 100% confident the beer is as low as it will go, go ahead and rack. Some will say they never rack before 2 weeks, but I've racked after 1 lots of times and never noticed any problems. Good luck.

 

[BrettPreston]

It's around 20/22 C.

I've agitated it slight and no movement.

Would you say add yeast into primary or move to secondary with new ingredients and add a tad of yeast also?


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[flars]

Did you use Brew Enhancer with the kit? Brewers that have added the BE report FG of 1.006.

 

[BrettPreston]

Hi. No I did not have one this time. I use 1KG of brewing sugar.

Nothing else has been added.

The packet of yeast was dry, Windsor yeast. I rehydrated it then added it.

Lots of action, but then settled down.


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[eadavis80]

When I added my champagne yeast, I threw it into the primary along with some yeast nutrient.

 

[BrettPreston]

Ok, I may do things In this order after advice. Once home..

Take another reading, if remains the same...

1 agitate brew and leave.

2 if still no action, add more yeast and wait.


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[flars]

The sugar should have the same result as BE except for thinning the body a bit more.

Check your hydrometer calibration in distilled or pure water. The SG should read 1.000 at the calibration temperature. Calibration temperature is usually 15°C or 20°C. Calibration temperature is printed on the card inside the hydrometer. The card can shift in the hydrometer skewing you readings. It is possible your SG may be lower. Temperature correct your SG readings also.

An FG of 1.020 will leave more sweet flavor in the beer than fermenting out lower. A pale ale style beer will have some malty sweetness so that is not a problem.

I'm conservative. I would leave the beer in the primary in the fermentor a few more days. Bottle if the FG does not change.

 

[raysmithtx]

Are you using a hydrometer or a refractometer for the 1.020 reading?


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[BrettPreston]

Ok, I will leave how it is for now.

Sorry, can you run through how to check my hydromitor is reading correct?

Put into pure bottled water, at room temp and should read 1.000? Thanks.


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[flars]

Ok, I will leave how it is for now.

Sorry, can you run through how to check my hydromitor is reading correct?

Put into pure bottled water, at room temp and should read 1.000? Thanks.


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Should read 1.000 at the calibration temperature for your particular hydrometer. The calibration temperature may be 15°C or 20°C. The calibration temperature is printed on the card inside the hydrometer. The print is very small.

Here is a link to help out. The link only mentions one calibration temperature, but that is not true anymore. This on line book is old.
Also has a temperature correction chart to use.
http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixA.html