Ordinary Bitter Help

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msmith92

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I've been making this recipe (ala NB kit)

O.G: 1.035 READY: 4 WEEKS
2 weeks primary, 2 weeks bottle conditioning
KIT INVENTORY:
SPECIALTY GRAIN
--0.5 lbs Simpsons CaraMalt (I use Crystal 20L)
FERMENTABLES
--1 lbs Golden Light dry malt extract (60 min)
--3.15 lbs Gold malt syrup late addition (15 min)
HOPS & FLAVORINGS
--1 oz UK Kent Goldings (60 min)
--0.5 oz UK Kent Goldings (15 min)
--0.5 oz UK Kent Goldings (1 min)


---------------------------

I want to know if there's any additions or changes to make to sort of "plus" it.

The yeast I've been using is Wyeast British Ale II

Thanks
 
I've been making this recipe (ala NB kit)

O.G: 1.035 READY: 4 WEEKS
2 weeks primary, 2 weeks bottle conditioning
KIT INVENTORY:
SPECIALTY GRAIN
--0.5 lbs Simpsons CaraMalt (I use Crystal 20L)
FERMENTABLES
--1 lbs Golden Light dry malt extract (60 min)
--3.15 lbs Gold malt syrup late addition (15 min)
HOPS & FLAVORINGS
--1 oz UK Kent Goldings (60 min)
--0.5 oz UK Kent Goldings (15 min)
--0.5 oz UK Kent Goldings (1 min)


---------------------------

I want to know if there's any additions or changes to make to sort of "plus" it.

The yeast I've been using is Wyeast British Ale II

Thanks

Sure, you can "plus" it! What do you want to increase? Body, ABV, hops flavor, etc?
 
Well, I like the beer enough but curious to know if anybody sees anything in the recipe that should be adjusted or would advise to use instead.

With that said. Body +
 
Also, aside from putting this in a cask (not able too) I'd like to get an authentic recipe going for the ordinary bitter.
 
Well, I like the beer enough but curious to know if anybody sees anything in the recipe that should be adjusted or would advise to use instead.

In a word, no. It looks like a perfectly fine ordinary bitter recipe to me for a simple extract beer.
 
you could try subbing a small portion of the cara 20 for something darker (maybe 120) to give the caramel notes a bit more complexity, you could also toast a pound of 2 row in your oven (search for tutorials) and mash that with the 20l to bring out some more malt complexity (if thats something that you're into.)
 
you could try subbing a small portion of the cara 20 for something darker (maybe 120) to give the caramel notes a bit more complexity, you could also toast a pound of 2 row in your oven (search for tutorials) and mash that with the 20l to bring out some more malt complexity (if thats something that you're into.)

Hmm..I'll check that out. Color of the beer was nice and light but adding to the complexity is something I'm going for.

Thanks.
 
Hmm..I'll check that out. Color of the beer was nice and light but adding to the complexity is something I'm going for.

Thanks.

a couple ounces shouldnt affect it too much, I'd go with something like 2 oz 120l and 4 or 5oz 20l. check the numbers in beersmith or beercalculus or something, but you should end up with basically the same color.
 
Try swapping the crystal 120 for Simpson's Extra Dark Crystal (140-160L) - it will give it a bit more of a burnt caramel/dark fruit character. You could also add .25lbs of Special Roast to add further complexity - Jamil puts that in his ordinary bitter that is basically the same as this recipe. Both malts are available from Northern Brewer. I use both in most of my Bitters.
 
You might also consider adding some biscuit malt or something along those lines to give it more of a bready malty flavor since your extract doesn't have much of that going on.
 
You might also consider adding some biscuit malt or something along those lines to give it more of a bready malty flavor since your extract doesn't have much of that going on.

.25 Crystal 20L + .25 Crystal 140L (dark you mentioned) + biscuit?
 
I've really enjoyed the london ale yeast in bitters (wlp its 013, but the wyeast of same name is the same strain afaik), you could try switching up the yeast a bit. I also would suggest some biscuit (or the aforementioned toasted 2-row) to bulk up the bready notes if you want a complex malt profile. Another option is always to experiment with the hop schedule, though in an ordinary bitter I usually find myself looking at the nuances of the malt that peaks through than a complex, intricate hop scheme.
A note on the 20l/140l split, I tend to find a light hand in the darker roasts important, so something more like perhaps .1 140l and .7 20l (forgive my rough estimates, I function better in ounces below a pound, i'd suggest something like 2 oz 140l 5oz 20l and maybe 8oz biscuit or 1lb toasted 2row.)
 
While I understand you're looking for more complexity, it's worth pointing out that Ordinary Bitter is, well, ordinary. It's not very complex.

A bit of malt to provide a bit of balance to firm hops bitterness, possibly some crystal-malt firmness and hints of caramel flavor, and restrained fruitiness deriving from yeast. That's all you should expect. It is not a balanced beer; it's Bitter! :)

The NB kit recipe is classic, in my opinion. Take a look at Pride of Raubsville in my Recipes dropdown. With Ordinary Bitter, simple is best. Save the complexity for ESB.

Cheers,

Bob
 
Well, all the input is teaching me some things.

I basically was searching for either a different recipe or an extension of what was.

I got both.

Certainly the NB recipe is good, but it is not the only ordinary bitter....right?

On a side note, this style should be stressed more as the type of beer for developing your technique.

It really emphasizes simplicity yet begs for attention.

IMHO.
 
Yeast selection has a big impact on bitters. Traditionally they used low pitch rates to bring out more esters too. I've also read that they did not even start using crystal malt is them until after WWII. The style really was mostly about the hops and the yeast.
 
Expound on the yeast selections.

I wish I could. I have used most all of the dry English strains, but for the most part I pitched too much. WLP002 is the best I've used with a best bitter. My favorite ordinary bitter was with s-33 pitched one gram per gallon. I really need to work with more strains and different pitch rates. I read a lot of historical stuff. 5-6 million cells per milliliter pitched at around 60F and letting the fermentation go to 70F or higher seems to be the best way. That is about like not making a starter with a viable smack pack or vile.
 
I wish I could. I have used most all of the dry English strains, but for the most part I pitched too much. WLP002 is the best I've used with a best bitter. My favorite ordinary bitter was with s-33 pitched one gram per gallon. I really need to work with more strains and different pitch rates. I read a lot of historical stuff. 5-6 million cells per milliliter pitched at around 60F and letting the fermentation go to 70F or higher seems to be the best way. That is about like not making a starter with a viable smack pack or vile.

I'll try the WLP002 with that recipe and look for the change.

Thanks.
 
I've noticed with my Best Bitter's, that carbonation and serving temp are KEY. When I keg it, I only have one regulator so I set and forget at my serving PSI for about 5-6 days and then remove the CO2. I leave the CO2 off, and serve it that way so it's like 1.5 vol. CO2. I also let the pint warm up, which I really find makes a difference.

When it's overcarbed and cold it's just harsh and thing.
 
I've noticed with my Best Bitter's, that carbonation and serving temp are KEY. When I keg it, I only have one regulator so I set and forget at my serving PSI for about 5-6 days and then remove the CO2. I leave the CO2 off, and serve it that way so it's like 1.5 vol. CO2. I also let the pint warm up, which I really find makes a difference.

When it's overcarbed and cold it's just harsh and thing.

I usually set and forget too at 10psi @ 38F for one week.
 

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