Oops - help me fix a stuck fermentation!

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

stratslinger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2010
Messages
2,609
Reaction score
237
Location
Terryville
OK, so I just made a rather dumb mistake...

I started up an amber ale 4 weeks ago tomorrow, an extract kit fermented with Ringwood. (If it's necessary, I can dig up the recipe) Today, I transferred to secondary (for dry-hopping) and made a kind of dumb mistake; I assumed since 4 weeks had gone by and the active stage of fermentation had clearly ended in the first or second week, that it would be fully fermented out - so I grabbed a sample and began the transfer before I tested the sample. I guess I saw that sample as more of a formality and a chance to taste where the beer is at...

Anyway, transfer complete, beer put away, I test the sample and get a 1.020. Judging by the flavor, it's pretty clearly not done - still much sweeter than I'd expect. So, I know I need to pitch some more yeast to finish up, and that's where my questions come in.

Since the dry hops are already in there, will re-starting fermentation effectively negate their effect? Will I need to dry-hop again?

What strain of yeast would most closely match any flavor characteristics Ringwood would impart - and how much should I pitch if I'm just looking to finish up from 1.020 down to somewhere around 1.012 or thereabouts?

Once I repitch, do I basically completely re-start the clock on this beer? I was planning to bottle next weekend. But if the clock is restarting, I'd guess I'm still 3-4 weeks away at least, depending on whether I'll need to redo my dry hopping as well.

So, please help me fix my dumb mistake! Thanks!
 
What was the OG and what were the fermentation temps? Extract is usually on the less fermentable side of things, and is notorious for higher FG's. The ringwood strain isn't a great attenuator either. It's very possible that you've reached your FG and it won't go any lower. Depending on your OG, 1.012 might be a pretty unrealistic goal for an extract brew. Also, in case you weren't aware it will taste much less sweet once you add some carbonation.
 
Wouldn't you know it - I looked around the house for the recipe sheet this morning, and couldn't find it. For anyone who has the book, it's the Fireside Amber clone from Beer Captured. I'll look more tonight, since it HAS to be around somewhere!

I can say that the OG was 1.052. Also, my previous 3 extract brews all finished up around 1.012 or 1.013 - since the recipe sheet for this kit didn't list an expected FG, I basically just assumed (possibly wrongly!) that this one would wind up in that same range.

Also, I definitely understand that the beer is going to taste differently carbed than it does flat - I've done quite a few batches (both AG and extract) with a friend and gotten a chance to see that progression, and this is the 4th or 5th batch I've done at my place now... And this beer right now, to my pallette at least, tastes closer to an unpitched wort than it does to a pre-carbed beer, which is a big part of my concern. The other part of that concern is bottle-bombs; I'd hate to have fermentation kick back in and make that kind of mess!!!
 
OK, I looked again and found the recipe sheet. Dang it, I even had the name wrong! Here's the recipe:

13oz US 80L Crystal
6lbs Muntons Extra Light DME
8oz Malto Dextrin
1oz East Kent Goldings @ 60min
3/4oz East Kent Goldings @ 15min
1/2oz East Kent Goldings @ 10min
1oz East Kent Goldings @ 1min

OG was supposed to be 1.055 (Mine was at 1.053), FG was apparently supposed to be 1.016 - so I'm not as far off as I thought. Should I have any real concern at this point about bottle bombs? I'm thinking no now...

Also - the recipe calls for priming with more Munton's Extra Light DME, but calls for it by Volume (1-1/4C) instead of weight, which I've read is a bad way to measure out sugars for priming. First off, is there a benefit to using DME over corn sugar and, if so, what actual weight of DME would be appropriate?
 
Yes looks like its done and ready for bottles
It really dont matter what you prime with as long as you can figure out the amount you need(i use table sugar)
 
Can't help with the DME weight as I have always used by volume at 1 and 1/4Cup as you noted would do just fine with the recipe you have. Never had a problem doing it that way. I like using the DME over the corn because I feel like I get a better flavor....or should I say that I get no additional flavor. I used corn for many years and switched over because I found the corn to add a little bit of a vinagar or alcohol taste. You might want to try and split the batch using both, one on each half and compare, then choose your favorite.
Also I would not worry about bottle bombs with the numbers you have. If you have a concern put the cases in the bathtub or in a garbage sack for the first couple weeks.
 
I'd also guess it's done, but you never did tell us the temp. The maltodextrin and crystal adds a fair amount of unfermentables. If it got a little cold at some point during fermentation, you may want to try warming it up a little, rousing the yeast, and then giving it another week.

Weight is way more accurate than volume for priming since there's no way to compare how dense your sugar/dme/etc. is compared to mine. Here's a handy calculator for priming. It will tell you how much DME (in weight) you need to reach any desired carbonation level, and it even accounts for the variation in attenuation between brands.
 
I did leave out the ferment temp, didn't I... Sorry about that - this one fermented between 64 and 66F, according to the adhesive thermometer on the side of the fermenter - never got colder than that, and was probably a couple degrees higher when fermentation was going full blast (high krausen, tons of visible activity in the brew itself, in a better bottle).
 
Back
Top