On the proper cleaning of used industrial carboys

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TimpanogosSlim

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Every once in a while we come across a deal on a glass carboy that can't be passed up. Often bearing a label warning of chemical contents.

I intend this thread to become a repository of information on how to clean them so as to be certain you aren't poisoning yourself.

A good friend of mine is a chemistry professor and former EPA site inspector and cleanup tech. He was slightly alarmed when i mentioned to him that I had acquired carboys bearing Nitric Acid labels.

Industrial grade nitric acid, he says, often contains traces of mercury salts. This is because mercury is used in the manufacturing process for nitric acid that does not have to be food-grade, because it lowers the amount of heat you have to put into the reaction by a large margin.

Most of that mercury is drawn back out at the end of the process, but some remains, and it sticks to the glass.

He said that if someone had been using them as fermenters for years, they are probably fine by now, but not knowing their exact history (though at least one of them also had a sticker marking it as having contained peach wine), here is the cleaning procedure he recommended:

Nitric Acid carboys:

Mix 1 gallon of ammonia+surfectant solution (Buy jug of ammonia-based cleaner at hardware store or janitorial supply, follow directions on jug) - swish around in carboy for a few minutes. This will stink, do it outside. The ammonia will draw metals off of the surface of the glass.

Then add 20 grams of EDTA Disodium (not EDTA disodium-calcium), swish around for some more minutes. EDTA is a chelating agent - it will bind the metals in the solution and prevent them from settling back onto the glass.

Then dump. This should be safe in the sewer system or wherever. Ammonia and surfectants won't hurt anything. Any free EDTA will rapidly acquire metal ions and neutralize itself. We're not talking about much mercury, and the mercury you're dumping is bound to the EDTA and can't do much harm anymore - it's just that when you know you have an option to avoid consuming mercury, you oughta take it. My guess is that this mixture won't even kill the grass but i haven't tried that. I plan to dump it on my concrete driveway and then eventually rinse with the hose.

You can get Disodium EDTA from purebulk.com - about $8 for 250 grams. The ammonia + edta solution is good for cleaning metals out of just about anything, also for removing oxidation from metals without harming good metal. If you can only get tetrasodium edta, use 40 grams. If you can get edta free acid, you could use 5 grams, but you can't get edta free acid.

This cleaning method may be recommended for carboys that have held other industrial acids.

Phenol carboys:

My new 6.5g carboy held a liquid phenol solution in the 70's.

Does it smell like phenol? If so, wash with water and detergent until it doesn't smell like phenol. If you have ever had electronics burn up, you have smelled phenol.

Does it smell clean? Good, it's clean, use it. No contamination concerns.
 
Thanks for the info just picked up 6 6.5 gal nitric acid carboys for $15 per off craigslist.

one question, what is an example of an ammonia+surfectant solution? Just the normall cleaning ammonia from the grocery store?? If so how much water are you mixxing in?


Thanks again :mug:
 
I used "clear ammonia" from the hardware store, I'm pretty sure that the stuff at the grocery store is the same stuff. It's hard to come by straight ammonia these days, probably has something to do with meth.

I followed the directions on the bottle to mix about a gallon in the carboy.

Congrats on your score.
 
From another point of view is it really worth putting your nervous system in jeopardy to save $25 or $30 on a fermenter that should last for years through many batches? My preference would be to buy new from the brew shoo and not have to worry about mercury poisoning.
 
This is great. Should be stickied. I get large brown growlers sometimes at the medschool, some more like 3/4 of a gallon as opposed to 1/2 gallons. I'm always curious about the best way to clean them.
 
I see a lot of them at work that contain Formalin Neutral Buffer.....I know that's partly formaldehyde.... Ask him about those.

(I work at a medical school, btw)
 
Here's what the good professor says about formalin:

"Water cleaning and drying is entirely sufficient. Evaporation only can leave formaldehyde polymers on the inside surface. Normally, this isn't hamful, because the amounts are very small, but some people go ape**** over a very small amount of formaldehyde. Long drying, or hot drying, will evaporate those, also."

So it sounds like soap & water and then heat it up in the oven for a bit if you want to be really sure.
 
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