stickyfinger
Well-Known Member
I used 1272 in comparison with 1318 and couldn't tell the difference given my process and recipe. i'd use 1272 in a heartbeat.
Anyone have white labs yeast recommendations?
Wlp002/007?
I'm exclusively 1318 with this style and they clear for meWhich yeast are you using in these beers? If you're not using WY1318 and a long-lasting haze is what you're after, give that one a try. I don't necessarily think that it is yeast in suspension that is the source of the haze, but yeast choice certainly plays a role in how long it sticks around. I've never had a WY1318 fermented NEIPA clear, and I've even had one stick around in the keg for a little over 2 months. WLP095 seems to clear significantly at around 5-6 weeks in the keg, and TYB vermont ale yeast was somewhere in between those two. I have my first one using WLP066 going now that I'm expecting will be similar to WY1318 in terms of haze stability.
I'm exclusively 1318 with this style and they clear for me
Check post #6676What is your typical dry hop schedule? Also, do you use whirlfloc?
I never remove the hops, longest I leave them is 10-12 days though. No negative affect that I can determine.Im using a Fast Ferment. I would like to know when would you remove the first thrub while fermenting ?? I feel like leaving the hops in there for more than a week will impact taste and color ? I usually dry hop at 24-36 hours while high krausen and remove the bottom after about a week
Should i leave it longer?
Check post #6676
Get ready to be underwhelmed by WLP066. Got that recently as a substitute for 1318 because my local place didn’t have any in stock. It’s not the same by a long shot. Less fruity yeast character and much more attenuation.
I just transferred the beer using WLP066 to the serving keg last night, so haven't tasted it yet, but the hydrometer sample i pulled smelled great and the attenuation was actually less that I usually get from WY1318 or A38. OG was 1.066 with a FG of 1.017 for an AA of 73%. Will find out how it did in the flavor department sometime this weekend.
I wouldn't want more break material in my beer just for the sake of Haze. Clear beer into fermenter is my policy regardless of styleSeems like the biggest difference in our processes that might affect haze stability is the use of whirlfloc. The only time I’ve used it in a NEIPA (first attempt at the style), I noticed that the wort was pretty clear going into the fermenter. Every time since then, I’ve left it out and the wort going into the fermenter is hazy. That first beer with whirlfloc did have a decent dry hop haze after fermentation, but was by far the clearest beer in the style that I’ve made. It also used WLP095 in that batch (which I’ve found clears sooner than WY1318), but it was much less hazy than the times I’ve used WLP095 since then.
Wow really? Did you force cold crash it to stop it? What day way this measurement? Did you use a starter?
I went from 1.064 to 1.009 in ~5 days. Several folks have had similar results of AA in the mid 80s.
Sorry for so many questions. Just wanna make sure I have a good handle on things. Hope it turns out good for you!
Which yeast are you using in these beers? If you're not using WY1318 and a long-lasting haze is what you're after, give that one a try. I don't necessarily think that it is yeast in suspension that is the source of the haze, but yeast choice certainly plays a role in how long it sticks around. I've never had a WY1318 fermented NEIPA clear, and I've even had one stick around in the keg for a little over 2 months. WLP095 seems to clear significantly at around 5-6 weeks in the keg, and TYB vermont ale yeast was somewhere in between those two. I have my first one using WLP066 going now that I'm expecting will be similar to WY1318 in terms of haze stability.
I used 1272 in comparison with 1318 and couldn't tell the difference given my process and recipe. i'd use 1272 in a heartbeat.
I completely agree. I have used WLP066 three or four times now and I find it to leave a very boring yeast character as compared to other popular options. At first I thought it was my process but no matter what I've done, it always left the final beer too thin for a NEIPA, in my opinion.Get ready to be underwhelmed by WLP066. Got that recently as a substitute for 1318 because my local place didn’t have any in stock. It’s not the same by a long shot. Less fruity yeast character and much more attenuation.
Just saw this on my Alchemist channel supscription. Sounds deelicious. Think I'll try a Mosaic-CTZ combo soon!
Anyone have white labs yeast recommendations?
Wlp002/007?
I've used 002 and absolutely loved it.i would put it on par with 1318 for me.
White Labs claims that "This yeast will leave a beer very clear". Does this style beer clear with 002?
Doing a little experiment over the next week or two.
It's pretty tame but I've always been interested to see the effect certain hops may have at f/o. Specifically unique hops with less than typical descriptors.
I've got v1 in now.
V1-
FWH: 30g Columbus.
F/o: 80g Columbus.
Dryhopped with the standard mosaic citra galaxy combo (single big dryhop only at this point).
V2-
FWH: 30g Columbus
F/o: 40g Columbus
F/o: 40g Sorachi Ace.
Same dryhop as V1
I'll post up some form of results when I get it done (both are being entered into a local competition to get proper evaluation).
Doing a little experiment over the next week or two.
It's pretty tame but I've always been interested to see the effect certain hops may have at f/o. Specifically unique hops with less than typical descriptors.
I've got v1 in now.
V1-
FWH: 30g Columbus.
F/o: 80g Columbus.
Dryhopped with the standard mosaic citra galaxy combo (single big dryhop only at this point).
V2-
FWH: 30g Columbus
F/o: 40g Columbus
F/o: 40g Sorachi Ace.
Same dryhop as V1
I'll post up some form of results when I get it done (both are being entered into a local competition to get proper evaluation).
Looks great. Recipe?
Looks great. Recipe?
Anyone else getting a tingling on the tongue when drinking this recipe/style?
Its been a while and I've went through the whole thread. Did you find any time to write a report on this yet?
Curious to the results.
Cheers!
If you're really anal about oxygen ingress on the cold side you can retain that flavor for weeks/months.I agree with Bigbuds findings.
I don't care what amount you dry hop with, but keg hops are what really makes a beer like this shine in my opinion. Also, I think you are looking at 2 days of the beer being 'outstanding' before it drops off. I've been doing 2 screens, 1 on my dip tube and another longer one outside of that. When I detect the aroma dropping, I add another 1+ oz hops to the keg.
I've transferred off of the dry hop keg into another, and it doesn't work for me. I've seen no ill effects leaving the beer on the hops for several weeks, other than the aroma drops quite a bit. Again, just my opinion YMMV.
If you're really anal about oxygen ingress on the cold side you can retain that flavor for weeks/months.
I'd love to crush one of these beers right now. He gets so pumped about it. Also might be trying some lupulin next time around.
If by intensity you're referring to the raw flavor you get when there are tons of hop debris in suspension then yes, it will settle over timr regardless of o2 exposure.I agree that limiting O2 exposure is a large part of it, but I’m not sure that I’m convinced that gravity/time doesn’t also play a significant role in diminishing the intensity of the hop flavor as things gradually settle out. I think the effect is greater with higher dry hopping rates.
Wow really? Did you force cold crash it to stop it? What day way this measurement? Did you use a starter?
I went from 1.064 to 1.009 in ~5 days. Several folks have had similar results of AA in the mid 80s.
Sorry for so many questions. Just wanna make sure I have a good handle on things. Hope it turns out good for you!
WLP066 did the exact same thing for me. Went from 1.058 down to 1.008. Mashed at 156F. Used a starter and the FG sample was taken on day 13. Yeast was manufactured on 19 March so it was also an early batch: Lot#1053694.
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