New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Finally got around to trying an inline filter when transferring. Went with the brewers hardware filter. Results where awesome.

Details here.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=636379

I've had good luck so far with this set up. I do like the stainless though.

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I use Columbus to bitter and Columbus at 10. I believe I even use it in the dry hop, but would have to check my notes.


I ask this about Columbus since I have been using Yakima's CTZ bittering extract (hop shots) at the 60 min mark for a good portion of my IBUs. Other than that extract, I hadn't used Columbus in the beer as a later hop addition.
 
Are you using Columbus at 60 (only) for your bittering addition?

This is making me think I'd probably skip the Citra on this next brew and try Galaxy, Mosaic and Amarillo instead of Citra. What do you think?

I have been FWH with 1/4 oz (7g) of Columbus in all of my beers for bittering.

I believe that there is no wrong combo of the fruitier hops. Report back on the GMA!
 
I have been FWH with 1/4 oz (7g) of Columbus in all of my beers for bittering.

I believe that there is no wrong combo of the fruitier hops. Report back on the GMA!


Will do! Since I am a bit short of Citra and have an oversupply of Amarillo, I'll try this G/M/A combo to compare.
 
I always use .25 oz columbus @60 and .75 columbus @10. I saw it in the Trillium recipe article from last fall as the recommendation from JC. I also sometimes use it in the whirlpool and or dry hop. It can be used for both bittering aroma as its a dual purpose hop.
 
I always use .25 oz columbus @60 and .75 columbus @10. I saw it in the Trillium recipe article from last fall as the recommendation from JC. I also sometimes use it in the whirlpool and or dry hop. It can be used for both bittering aroma as its a dual purpose hop.

To me, Trillium is a tad bitter than I prefer, more in the Tree House realm. I like the tad bit of bitterness from the FWH. Don't misinterpret me, Trillium makes fantastic beers, and I would be glad to have a few cases on hand.

Marjen, it's been awhile since I have seen you post on here, have you figured out your bigger equipment?
 
Marjen, it's been awhile since I have seen you post on here, have you figured out your bigger equipment?

Still having issues. I dont think its the equipment. I think it might be due to the warmer temps. We'll see, I have a batch fermenting right now. Its only about 62 in the basement at the moment, the fermenter temp is at 66. I am have a 5 gallon batch with WY1318 in there. Hoping this turns out ok.

Only had one good batch over the last 3 months after putting out good batch after good batch over the spring months. I find it hard to believe that a 6-8 degree hike in temp over the summer could completely make a beer undrinkable but I guess I will see. I mean the range for WY1318 is supposed to be 64-74 I believe and though I was in the upper range over the summer, it was still within the limits. Basement never got warmer than 70-71 all summer. But beer would get up to mid 70s during fermentation. Also was a rather humid summer, not sure how humidity effect beer.

If things turn around now that its cooler, a glycol chiller will be on my short list pronto. If things still are not good, not sure where to go from here. My brew days seem solid, hit my numbers etc.
 
Still having issues. I dont think its the equipment. I think it might be due to the warmer temps. We'll see, I have a batch fermenting right now. Its only about 62 in the basement at the moment, the fermenter temp is at 66. I am have a 5 gallon batch with WY1318 in there. Hoping this turns out ok.

Only had one good batch over the last 3 months after putting out good batch after good batch over the spring months. I find it hard to believe that a 6-8 degree hike in temp over the summer could completely make a beer undrinkable but I guess I will see. I mean the range for WY1318 is supposed to be 64-74 I believe and though I was in the upper range over the summer, it was still within the limits. Basement never got warmer than 70-71 all summer. But beer would get up to mid 70s during fermentation. Also was a rather humid summer, not sure how humidity effect beer.

If things turn around now that its cooler, a glycol chiller will be on my short list pronto. If things still are not good, not sure where to go from here. My brew days seem solid, hit my numbers etc.

Good sanitation practices with no signs of any types of infections? No weird scum or the like on top?

High temps may influence fusel alcohols and give a certain sharpness related to off flavors. Dumpable? Not sure that is only temp related but possible. This fall weather will give you some answers as it seems your troubles may be isolated to the summer months.
 
Good sanitation practices with no signs of any types of infections? No weird scum or the like on top?

Sanitation seems good. No signs of infection. Most batches was looked clear on top of beer when it was transferred to keg. Looked like the good batches do. There were a couple earlier in the summer that did not seem to clear very well. I did post in the infection thread and the consensus seemed to be it was just hop matter that did not drop. But have not seen anything like that for 3-4 batches. All seem to have vigorous fermentation as well.
 
Sanitation seems good. No signs of infection. Most batches was looked clear on top of beer when it was transferred to keg. Looked like the good batches do. There were a couple earlier in the summer that did not seem to clear very well. I did post in the infection thread and the consensus seemed to be it was just hop matter that did not drop. But have not seen anything like that for 3-4 batches. All seem to have vigorous fermentation as well.

Hmm my two cents would be temp control. How are you monitoring temp?Thermowell? Outside of fermenter?

You have produced good beer before, so things that change in the summer would be temperature and maybe water source.
 
You have produced good beer before, so things that change in the summer would be temperature and maybe water source.

Temp is monitored from the little sticker thermometer attached to the fermenters.

I actually had a lot of changes. I went for a 10 gallon kettle, to a 20 gallon kettle w/pump to be able to do whirlpool and pump wort out into fermenter. I also went from carboys to to speedily (never had a good batch in 4 attempts in it) then to fermentasaurus. So could it be equipment? Maybe but not sure how. I have dialed in the boil and really do hit my temps just fine, so not sure it could be anything on the hot side. Fermenters? I dont think so, but could be wrong. The only thing I an remotely think of is the Spiedel and Fermentasaurus both have much larger capacity than carboy. This is what I wanted as most batches were blowing the top off the carboy caps due to the nature of WY1318. Could all the extra airspace be causing issues? I would think CO2 is filling it up during fermentation, but who knows. Should not be an issue.

Water is always the same, I use RO water and add some additions.

I am still thinking temp. Could also be hops getting older? I freeze them. Maybe bad bags of grains? I dont think so. I did have one very solid batch in the middle of this mess in late august. Not sure why, lol. Literally did nothing different.
 
Temp is monitored from the little sticker thermometer attached to the fermenters.

I actually had a lot of changes. I went for a 10 gallon kettle, to a 20 gallon kettle w/pump to be able to do whirlpool and pump wort out into fermenter. I also went from carboys to to speedily (never had a good batch in 4 attempts in it) then to fermentasaurus. So could it be equipment? Maybe but not sure how. I have dialed in the boil and really do hit my temps just fine, so not sure it could be anything on the hot side. Fermenters? I dont think so, but could be wrong. The only thing I an remotely think of is the Spiedel and Fermentasaurus both have much larger capacity than carboy. This is what I wanted as most batches were blowing the top off the carboy caps due to the nature of WY1318. Could all the extra airspace be causing issues? I would think CO2 is filling it up during fermentation, but who knows. Should not be an issue.

Water is always the same, I use RO water and add some additions.

I am still thinking temp. Could also be hops getting older? I freeze them. Maybe bad bags of grains? I dont think so. I did have one very solid batch in the middle of this mess in late august. Not sure why, lol. Literally did nothing different.


In my experience, those sticker thermometers are not very accurate and should not be trusted to give an accurate fermentation temperature.
 
I'd still stick with the assumption that temp controlling (or lack of) in the summer months is the nemesis. This current batch will tell lots, plus I know your glycol chiller is on the horizon. Hopefully this past summer will be the last you have to suffer thru temp issues.
 
Could also be hops getting older? I freeze them. Maybe bad bags of grains? I dont think so. I did have one very solid batch in the middle of this mess in late august. Not sure why, lol. Literally did nothing different.

Ageing is certainly a problem for northern hemisphere hops at this time of year - oxygen plus ambient temperature is definitely a hop killer, one of those on its own is less of a problem but I've run into problems with hops that I'd refrozen open without vacuuming. Some varieties are worse than others - Cascade are notoriously fragile. Also look at what else is in the freezer, could they be contaiminated by strong smells from elsewhere in the freezer?

I must admit, I'm waiting to do a NEIPA until I can get the fresh 2017 harvest hops - I've got some other things to be getting on with in the meantime.
 
I've made several all-Citra beers and i think they were all too 1-dimensional. I did one with the full gamut of FWH, 60, 30, 10, 5, 0, 0+15, 0+30 and dry hops and the flavor was intense, but for me it wasn't complex.

I've recently made a similar recipe except i used approx 1/3-1/3-1/3 of Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. Much better balance of bitterness, aroma and flavor.
 
I've made several all-Citra beers and i think they were all too 1-dimensional. I did one with the full gamut of FWH, 60, 30, 10, 5, 0, 0+15, 0+30 and dry hops and the flavor was intense, but for me it wasn't complex.

I've recently made a similar recipe except i used approx 1/3-1/3-1/3 of Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. Much better balance of bitterness, aroma and flavor.



i agree. throw in something else with it and Citra is great. citra mosaic. or citra plus some dank hops, etc. like to use citra ad a hopstand base hop and then add on others in dryhop
 
Ageing is certainly a problem for northern hemisphere hops at this time of year - oxygen plus ambient temperature is definitely a hop killer, one of those on its own is less of a problem but I've run into problems with hops that I'd refrozen open without vacuuming. Some varieties are worse than others - Cascade are notoriously fragile. Also look at what else is in the freezer, could they be contaiminated by strong smells from elsewhere in the freezer?



I must admit, I'm waiting to do a NEIPA until I can get the fresh 2017 harvest hops - I've got some other things to be getting on with in the meantime.



when do the 2017 domestic hops start showing up usually. i also want to buy fresh this yr
 
I've made several all-Citra beers and i think they were all too 1-dimensional. I did one with the full gamut of FWH, 60, 30, 10, 5, 0, 0+15, 0+30 and dry hops and the flavor was intense, but for me it wasn't complex.

I've recently made a similar recipe except i used approx 1/3-1/3-1/3 of Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. Much better balance of bitterness, aroma and flavor.

I have a pound of Citra and 2 ounces of Mosaic on hand. i was going to start my hops additions at 10 min. remaining in the boil. Should I consider the Mosaic for this addition, and then Citra for all of my subsequent additions?
 
I have a pound of Citra and 2 ounces of Mosaic on hand. i was going to start my hops additions at 10 min. remaining in the boil. Should I consider the Mosaic for this addition, and then Citra for all of my subsequent additions?



i’d do all citra in the hopstand and then use the mosaic with some citra in the dryhop
 
i’d do all citra in the hopstand and then use the mosaic with some citra in the dryhop

So skip the 10 minute addition, add a load of Citra hops at flame out, and let hopstand for 20-30 minutes before cooling to about 175-180 degrees for the whirlpool addition?

This batch will bring about 7.6 gallons to the boil, and 6.1 gallons to the fermenter. Anticipating an OG of 1.070. Any suggestions for the hops charges?
 
I actually had a lot of changes. I went for a 10 gallon kettle, to a 20 gallon kettle w/pump to be able to do whirlpool and pump wort out into fermenter.

I am still thinking temp.

When I switched from a 10G to a 20G kettle, I made a few off IPAs before I realized what was going on. With the 10G kettle, I had a false bottom and it prevented all the hop/cold break stuff from going into the carboy. With the 20G kettle, I'm using a boil coil so no false bottom. With those first few batches, I neglected to allow everything to settle out when I turned off the whirlpool and finished chilling. As soon as it got to temp, I would divert it from a whirlpool straight into the carboy. Now, after I turn off the whirlpool, I give everything a good 30 minutes to drop out and form a nice cone on the bottom - it has been a night and day difference.

Also, if you want to rule out temp, try OYL-057. I posted an experiment a few pages back where I ramped that one all the way up to 90F with no perceivable effect on flavor.
 
So skip the 10 minute addition, add a load of Citra hops at flame out, and let hopstand for 20-30 minutes before cooling to about 175-180 degrees for the whirlpool addition?

This batch will bring about 7.6 gallons to the boil, and 6.1 gallons to the fermenter. Anticipating an OG of 1.070. Any suggestions for the hops charges?



do a 60 min hopstand with citra. it will create an amazing, juicy base to build upon. then load in the mosaic and other dryhop for the final touch. i wonder lately if an early and late dryhop isnt best
 
do a 60 min hopstand with citra. it will create an amazing, juicy base to build upon. then load in the mosaic and other dryhop for the final touch. i wonder lately if an early and late dryhop isnt best

So the only hops additions are to be at flame-out with a hopstand for 60 minutes (whirlpooled at least occasionally I presume), then cool and whirlpool, but with no additional hops at this stage, followed in a few days by dry hopping additions, correct?

Any suggestions as to ounces at each stage?
 
I didn't really have any strong inclination for how to split the 3 hop varieties, or weigh out a ton of individual doses, so i simplified it:

I took 244g of Simcoe, 305g of Citra, and 454g of Mosaic, and put them all in a large mixing bowl.... gave them a good toss and then just split into all my additions.

I then turned that into this:
View attachment IMG_5571.jpg

This particular one was meant to be a face punching west coast style IPA, so i did 4@60, 2@20, 2@10, 4@5, 6oz@170F (for 15 mins), 6oz@140F (for 15 mins) plus about 12oz of dry hops.

I've done it with just 1 lb of Citra at BKO and steeped for an hour and i was not at all a fan. It was just like drinking orange juice. Not enough bitterness to balance. Came off really cloying. You could use my schedule from above but drop the 60 min additional entirely and you'd get a good balance of bitterness and juice. Depends what you like.
 
So the only hops additions are to be at flame-out with a hopstand for 60 minutes (whirlpooled at least occasionally I presume), then cool and whirlpool, but with no additional hops at this stage, followed in a few days by dry hopping additions, correct?



Any suggestions as to ounces at each stage?



yeah, try it. Citra is a beast in hopstand and Mosaic is a beast in either stage. I’d do 6 oz hopstand and 4-6 oz dryhop. just my opinion
 
Target at least 1lb hops per 5 gallons. Use at least 1/3 of that for hopstand and 1/3 for dry hop.
 
Gas line hooked up to the cap? Like 1 psi?

Exactly right. I was occasionally blowing the cap off the carboy under the gas pressure (which would stir everything up) until I started using the SS hose clamp to keep everything in place. I used the 80 micron filter (after cold crashing) with no clogging issues but still had fine hop material in the glass on the first and last couple of pours from the keg. Going to use the 40 micron filter on my next batch and continue working down till I find the sweet spot.
 
View attachment IMG_1656.jpg

My most recent batch. Followed the recipe exactly this time but subbed in a couple ounces of Nelson as I was short on Galaxy. Used a fresh pack of 1318. I overshot my strike temp and after waiting 20 minutes I mashed at 155. This is the first time I didn't oxygenate the wort. In the long run I ended up with a 1.018 FG. This pic is at 3 weeks in the keg. It tastes great and has a nice mouthfeel. A tad sweet but seems to fit the style.
 
I was at Treehouse yesterday. One of their offerings was Bright Nelson. It tasted like most of the Trilliums. I wonder if Trillium uses Nelson more than they reveal
 
just stumbled upon a hop combo that competes with CMG. try 1:1:1 citra:mosaic:ctz in dry hop. i used all-citra in hopstand but i’d do 1:1:1 C:M:CTZ in hopstand next time. amazing!!!
 
just stumbled upon a hop combo that competes with CMG. try 1:1:1 citra:mosaic:ctz in dry hop. i used all-citra in hopstand but i’d do 1:1:1 C:M:CTZ in hopstand next time. amazing!!!

Im actually a fan of Columbus as a non-bettering addition but to replace Galaxy is big shoes. I'll have to try it however as that would cut costs big time.
 
Im actually a fan of Columbus as a non-bettering addition but to replace Galaxy is big shoes. I'll have to try it however as that would cut costs big time.

I did a split batch. half was dry hopped with C:M:G and half with C:M:CTZ. It may be that the CTZ version just got out of the way of the C and M, but it tastes like it added it's own great effect as well. The G version was overpowered by G and lost some of the nice Mosaic character. I was shocked. Anyway, worth playing around with. The G version tasted a lot drier too. Could just be the lot of G I have.
 
Just finished this one up and it came out as one of the better ones I've made.

Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7.5 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.051
Efficiency: 65% (brew house)


STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.070
Final Gravity: 1.018
ABV (standard): 6.81%
IBU (tinseth): 36.91
SRM (morey): 4.75

FERMENTABLES:
Pale 2-Row (79.1%)
White Wheat (12.9%)
Carapils (Dextrine Malt) (6.4%)
Lactose (Milk Sugar) (1.6%)

HOPS:
0.3 oz - Columbus, Boil for 60 min
0.8 oz - Columbus, Boil for 10 min
4 oz - Galaxy, Whirlpool for 30 min at 165 °F
6 oz - Galaxy, Dry Hop for 3 days

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Infusion, Temp: 152 F, Time: 60 min
2) Sparge, Temp: 168 F, Time: 20 min

YEAST:
Imperial Yeast - A24 Dry Hop
 
I've decided to use some of the techniques from this thread, while deviating from the NEIPA style. Today I'm brewing a more traditional pale ale hop bill, using homegrown cascade, but using a NEIPA style grain bill and hop schedule, and 1318 yeast. This is very much an experiment to try to understand the grain, yeast and hop schedule vs hop types and to see what happens.

Target OG: 1.050
IBU: 38
5.75.gal into fermenter

Grain Bill:
10 lb Rahr Pale Ale
1 lb Flaked Oats
4 oz Honey Malt

Mash at 152F for 60 mins

Hops Schedule:
60 min - 2.5 ml Hopshot
Whirlpool 20 mins - 2 oz homegrown Cascade, picked 14 days ago, dried 7 days

1318 starting at 66F, rising to 72F after 3 days.
Dry hop with 2 oz homegrown Cascade 12-18 hours after fermentation takes off.

Maybe dry hop in keg depending on samples at kegging time.

This is in the keg and partially carbonated now (CO2 tank is running down though). I did a second dry hop in the keg with about 2oz of cascade pellets I had around, as the homegrown hops weren't giving enough. It's pretty tasty. Obviously it's a bit rough around the edges, as you'd expect from an all cascade brew, but it's definitely in the NE style rather than a classic cascade pale ale. Once it fully carbs up and the pellet hop dust drops out taking the bite with it, I think it'll be pretty good.

I guess I have a conclusion of "don't give up on cascade entirely just because there are all these fancy new hops available".
 
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