New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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seems pretty heavy for a pale ale?
I didn’t realize he asked for a pale ale recipe in an ipa thread. Nothing wrong with it but I just assumed it was for a 5.6 ipa. Still, that’s where I would be for a 6% hazy ipa.

It’s pretty much the US Standard of pros I know. 3-4lb/bbl dryhop for singles,4-5lb/bbl for doubles, 5-6lb/bbl triples.
 
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I didn’t realize he asked for a pale ale recipe in an ipa thread. Nothing wrong with it but I just assumed it was for a 5.6 ipa. Still, that’s where I would be for a 6% hazy ipa.

It’s pretty much the US Standard of pros I know. 3-4lb/bbl dryhop for singles,4-5lb/bbl for doubles, 5-6lb/bbl triples.
I concur..
 
I concur..
Agreed, this is pretty much where my 5.5% hazy I brewed a couple days ago is:
1736104804625.png
 
I think it's depends also on what you are aiming for.
Me personally, I like my Pale Ale's NOT so super hoppy saturated and model them more towards drinkability.
I think half a pound hot side and 2lbs per barrel dryhop is more then enough. You can even go lower.
 
I actually think that's more in line for a modern pale. I just made this most recent one with 6oz whirlpool and 8oz dry-hop. I still feel like I'm going to be disappointed. We'll see this week.

I say "modern" meaning "en vogue" lol
 
1736172815856.png

This was from my NEDIPA which is based off Omega's NE DIPA. I have never made one before, nor do I get too crazy with this style. I hope it is sufficient, but given some of the information in this thread I think it might be underhopped. Actually dry hopped on day 3 and day 8. Today is day 9. Thinking I will cold crash the beer on day 14. Thoughts?
 
I actually think that's more in line for a modern pale. I just made this most recent one with 6oz whirlpool and 8oz dry-hop. I still feel like I'm going to be disappointed. We'll see this week.

I say "modern" meaning "en vogue" lol
It's all about balance, the FG, the maltbill will support only so much hops till it becomes overhopped imho, at that point you are just wasting hops.
Even the higher abv ones can be great with lower hop amounts, it's just a very different drinking experience. I always go full out with my DIPA's they seem to drink much more juicy with a big hop load then anything below 8%
 
It's all about balance, the FG, the maltbill will support only so much hops till it becomes overhopped imho, at that point you are just wasting hops.
Even the higher abv ones can be great with lower hop amounts, it's just a very different drinking experience. I always go full out with my DIPA's they seem to drink much more juicy with a big hop load then anything below 8%
That can be related to perceived sweetness from the increased alcohol.

From here:

https://beerandbrewing.com/dictiona...an seem,will enhance perceptions of sweetness.

"The sensation of sweetness is more complex than the presence of sugar itself, because other compounds can trigger sensations of sweetness. Alcohol, for example, can seem sweet; stronger beers may seem to be sweet at first, even when residual sugar content is low. Various esters, which the olfactory system will sense as fruity aromatics, will enhance perceptions of sweetness. The brain can combine sensations of actual sugar, alcohol, and esters into a single complex impression of sweetness. Unlike other types of sweetness, actual residual sugar lingers on the palate after beer is swallowed."
 
That can be related to perceived sweetness from the increased alcohol.

From here:

https://beerandbrewing.com/dictionary/ZIMcEN28oo/#:~:text=Alcohol, for example, can seem,will enhance perceptions of sweetness.

"The sensation of sweetness is more complex than the presence of sugar itself, because other compounds can trigger sensations of sweetness. Alcohol, for example, can seem sweet; stronger beers may seem to be sweet at first, even when residual sugar content is low. Various esters, which the olfactory system will sense as fruity aromatics, will enhance perceptions of sweetness. The brain can combine sensations of actual sugar, alcohol, and esters into a single complex impression of sweetness. Unlike other types of sweetness, actual residual sugar lingers on the palate after beer is swallowed."
This is the same reason why some of the best hazy producers’ target lower FGs on their triple ipas verses singles or double—as the alcohol brings an increased mouthfeel and perceived sweetness.
 
Well it's been a while since I had this happen, I brew 15 gallon batches and a hazy batch usually goes quick around here, I just swapped my last (3rd) keg into my main keezer last week, it's been in my "on deck" keezer at 38f and 12psi since it was kegged like 3 months ago... now it looks like dirty bong water .. or worse, but damn it still tastes fantastic, might be posting pics of my hb in solo cups til this one kicks, brewing a fresh batch this weekend.

Current pour
20250107_190251.jpg


A month ago from first 2 kegs.

20241204_191334.jpg
 
Well it's been a while since I had this happen, I brew 15 gallon batches and a hazy batch usually goes quick around here, I just swapped my last (3rd) keg into my main keezer last week, it's been in my "on deck" keezer at 38f and 12psi since it was kegged like 3 months ago... now it looks like dirty bong water .. or worse, but damn it still tastes fantastic, might be posting pics of my hb in solo cups til this one kicks, brewing a fresh batch this weekend.

Current pour
View attachment 866276

A month ago from first 2 kegs.

View attachment 866277
Is it oxidation? Kinda looks like it....

I'm not casting stones, far be it from me in all honesty. Trying to understand your situation.
 
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Well it's been a while since I had this happen, I brew 15 gallon batches and a hazy batch usually goes quick around here, I just swapped my last (3rd) keg into my main keezer last week, it's been in my "on deck" keezer at 38f and 12psi since it was kegged like 3 months ago... now it looks like dirty bong water .. or worse, but damn it still tastes fantastic, might be posting pics of my hb in solo cups til this one kicks, brewing a fresh batch this weekend.

Current pour
View attachment 866276

A month ago from first 2 kegs.

View attachment 866277
How many pours in this keg are you?
 
Probably 10, even filled a growler to share. At first I thought I shook it up and got a yeasty pour.. then the color continued to shift. Didn't drop clear, hasn't lost much flavor or aroma. Like I said if you drink it blind you'd never know.... yet.
Aroma and flavor should go first before color if it’s oxidation. Definitely does “look” like it but I’ve never had a beer that was visually oxidized not taste or smell oxidized. So def wondering if the color in this keg is due to something left
 
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Aroma and flavor should go first before color of it’s oxidation. Definitely does “look” like it but I’ve never had a beer that was visually oxidized not taste or smell oxidized. So def wondering if the color in this keg is due to something left
I agree, I shouldn't say that the flavor and aroma are the same, it's not the same, but it's not gone, not muted, but definitely not as good as it was.. and I'd say it's dwindling. I'm pretty much trying to crush this keg before the flavor dies completely.. it's fading but in comparison to the color shift the flavor is good. I did all the same process as the other kegs, this one got the bottom of the fermenter so maybe something there but I really think oxidized and I bet in another week or 2 it'll go to hell if it's not gone by then.
 
I agree, I shouldn't say that the flavor and aroma are the same, it's not the same, but it's not gone, not muted, but definitely not as good as it was.. and I'd say it's dwindling. I'm pretty much trying to crush this keg before the flavor dies completely.. it's fading but in comparison to the color shift the flavor is good. I did all the same process as the other kegs, this one got the bottom of the fermenter so maybe something there but I really think oxidized and I bet in another week or 2 it'll go to hell if it's not gone by then.
Def get where you coming from, sorry it happened. I would guess oxidation myself with the color change. However other variables could be at play since both pictures are from different kegs. Same keg then definitely that’s the only possible culprit, different kegs there there could be other situations.

I’m pretty certain I read it on HBT a year or so ago and a guy thought his beer was oxidized but it still tasted pretty good. Come to find out he forgot to clean a keg (or grabbed the wrong keg) after kicking it and had the dregs of a dark beer in the bottom, so when he racked the hazy on it took on a darker color but there wasn’t enough to change flavor or aroma much
 
Def get where you coming from, sorry it happened. I would guess oxidation myself with the color change. However other variables could be at play since both pictures are from different kegs. Same keg then definitely that’s the only possible culprit, different kegs there there could be other situations.

I’m pretty certain I read it on HBT a year or so ago and a guy thought his beer was oxidized but it still tasted pretty good. Come to find out he forgot to clean a keg (or grabbed the wrong keg) after kicking it and had the dregs of a dark beer in the bottom, so when he racked the hazy on it took on a darker color but there wasn’t enough to change flavor or aroma much
I can see that being a thing, but the system I have wouldn't allow that.. I start with 3 dirty kegs, spray them out, fill with pbw and soak overnight, so 3 kegs in my brewery sink filled with pbw before I start my kegging process. Empty the pbw from each keg, rinse all of them thoroughly, fill 1 with starsan and co2 purge into next one, then into the third, then lastly into a bucket that is used for the closed transfer.. all kegs filled and purged with starsan as a last step, if there was anything left behind it would show up in the bucket that is the final vessel of the co2 purging. If, if, by some chance something got left behind it would be minimal, something stuck in a diptube maybe.. but hey, I suppose anything is possible. I'm still convinced it's oxidation and likely the next week of polishing off this keg will indicate that. Hence why I tip my hat to the flawless brewers out there, it's not easy.
 
I can see that being a thing, but the system I have wouldn't allow that.. I start with 3 dirty kegs, spray them out, fill with pbw and soak overnight, so 3 kegs in my brewery sink filled with pbw before I start my kegging process. Empty the pbw from each keg, rinse all of them thoroughly, fill 1 with starsan and co2 purge into next one, then into the third, then lastly into a bucket that is used for the closed transfer.. all kegs filled and purged with starsan as a last step, if there was anything left behind it would show up in the bucket that is the final vessel of the co2 purging. If, if, by some chance something got left behind it would be minimal, something stuck in a diptube maybe.. but hey, I suppose anything is possible. I'm still convinced it's oxidation and likely the next week of polishing off this keg will indicate that. Hence why I tip my hat to the flawless brewers out there, it's not easy.
Happens to all of us. I’m about to dump a full 5.25 gallons of a 12 month barrel aged dark wheat wine due to acetaldehyde from oxidation (or potential bacterial infection). It’s either that or I adjunct the sh!t out of it lol
 
I use Coastal Haze on 100% of my neipas. I absolutely love what it produces. My only complaint is it does over attenuate if you mash too low. I find anything under 152, and you'll finish around 1.015. I mix up my mash schedule between a single 154 or a step 146/158. I think I prefer the 146/158. Usually finishing around 1.018 like @bailey mountain brewer says. I think it lets the hops shine, especially after a large DH. I do soft crash the yeast before DH and only DH for a max of 48hrs, for reference.
Thanks for the tips. I'll be putting in an order this week for the yeast. Do you harvest or over build your starters on this strain? Wondering is this stain suited for overbuilding considering its a blend.
 
Thanks for the tips. I'll be putting in an order this week for the yeast. Do you harvest or over build your starters on this strain? Wondering is this stain suited for overbuilding considering its a blend.
I overbuild every starter and harvest off 300-500ml for future starters. I was told by Omega that you can use as little as 100ml of harvest for future starters, but I'd rather make more than less. I've gone out to 7 or so generations before getting a new pack. Can't say I see much difference with newer gens, but I like to get a fresh pack at least yearly.
 
I overbuild every starter and harvest off 300-500ml for future starters. I was told by Omega that you can use as little as 100ml of harvest for future starters, but I'd rather make more than less. I've gone out to 7 or so generations before getting a new pack. Can't say I see much difference with newer gens, but I like to get a fresh pack at least yearly.
Good to know it's possible to overbuild with this strain.
 
I've been searching for threads about White Labs Tropicale yeast WLP-077. There are threads from when it was announced but none really have good details. It is a non-GMO Thiolized yeast. Apparently I grabbed the wrong yeast, meant to get WLP-067 Costal Haze. I am trying to figure out what to brew with it. On White Labs site they have a 10th Anniversary Hazy IPA with the yeast. Now I have played with Thiolized yeast before and don't really care for high amount of Thiols. Their recipe uses a lot of wheat and no mash hops so that should tone it down but the DH rate seems very low. Does anyone have feedback on that recipe or one they think would be good with this yeast?
 
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White Labs site is having issues, here is the recipe:

Brew our 10th Anniversary Hazy IPA fermented with
Est. ABV: 7.7%
OG: 1.070 FG: 1.010 IBUs: 45
Pale Malt - 2 Row 7 lb 11 oz (3.5 kg)
Wheat - White Malt 3 lb (1.4 kg)
Oats - Flaked Mash 1 lb 12 oz (0.8 kg)
Carapils Malt 11 oz (0.3 kg)

Mash In - 154°F (68°C) for 75 mins
Add 15.10 liters of water at 165°F (74°C)
Mash Out - 168°F (76°C) for 10 mins
Add 9.66 liters of water at 194°F (90°C)

Warrior® 0.25 oz (7.0 g) Boil - 60 min
Cascade 0.75 oz (21.3 g) Whirlpool - 60 min
Mosaic® 0.75 oz (21.3 g) Whirlpool - 60 min
Simcoe® 0.75 oz (21.3 g) Whirlpool - 60 min
Mosaic® 1.25 oz (35.4 g) Dry Hop - 3 Days After Reaching FG
Cascade 1.25 oz (35.4 g) Dry Hop - 3 Days After Reaching FG
Simcoe® 1.25 oz (35.4 g) Dry Hop - 3 Days After Reaching FG

YEAST WLP077 Tropicale Yeast Blend
Fermentation: ~7-10 days 64°F (18°C) for three days, then raise to 70°F (21°C) until reaching final gravity

---I will be doing a full volume BIAB
 
but the DH rate seems very low.
Well a big part of the pitch for thiolising yeast is that they allow commercial brewers to spend less $$$ on hops...

Now I have played with Thiolized yeast before and don't really care for high amount of Thiols.
There are thiolising yeast and there's thiolising yeast.... The original Omega ones used the "natural" yeast IRC7 gene from their Chico strain, which was functional but not switched on in wort. Combining it with a better "switch" and putting the combined structure into British V led to Cosmic Punch.

But they wanted mooore thiols, so they started playing with a bacterial gene, patB, which led to Star Party, Lunar Crush and Helio Gazer. The general consensus seems to be that patB is "too much", and ends up being just one-dimensional thiols. So if you've only had thiolised beers made with Star Party/Lunar Crush/Helio Gazer then you're probably right to think you don't like "thiolised" beers, when in fact it's more likely that you just don't like beers thiolised with patB.

WLP077 Tropicale doesn't use patB, it combines yeast strains from the White Lab collection that naturally have high IRC7 activity. So their thiolising activity will be a lot less than patB strains like Star Party/Lunar Crush/Helio Gazer.

As an aside, this is a good piece from White Labs on thiolising that I'd not seen before :
https://www.whitelabs.com/news-update-detail?id=113&type=NEWS

So I wouldn't sweat it, I would just use either the recipe they suggest or one that you know well, and ferment WLP077 side by side with eg a London Ale III type, to see what the difference is.
 
Well a big part of the pitch for thiolising yeast is that they allow commercial brewers to spend less $$$ on hops...


There are thiolising yeast and there's thiolising yeast.... The original Omega ones used the "natural" yeast IRC7 gene from their Chico strain, which was functional but not switched on in wort. Combining it with a better "switch" and putting the combined structure into British V led to Cosmic Punch.

But they wanted mooore thiols, so they started playing with a bacterial gene, patB, which led to Star Party, Lunar Crush and Helio Gazer. The general consensus seems to be that patB is "too much", and ends up being just one-dimensional thiols. So if you've only had thiolised beers made with Star Party/Lunar Crush/Helio Gazer then you're probably right to think you don't like "thiolised" beers, when in fact it's more likely that you just don't like beers thiolised with patB.

WLP077 Tropicale doesn't use patB, it combines yeast strains from the White Lab collection that naturally have high IRC7 activity. So their thiolising activity will be a lot less than patB strains like Star Party/Lunar Crush/Helio Gazer.

As an aside, this is a good piece from White Labs on thiolising that I'd not seen before :
https://www.whitelabs.com/news-update-detail?id=113&type=NEWS

So I wouldn't sweat it, I would just use either the recipe they suggest or one that you know well, and ferment WLP077 side by side with eg a London Ale III type, to see what the difference is.
IIRC, for the typical taster IRC7 Elevated thiols 5x the tasting threshold, where as parB is 100-120x the tasting threshold
 
The general consensus seems to be that patB is "too much",
Yes, I agree! It's been several years since I used Cosmic Punch but recall it wasn't a thiol bomb.
IRC7 Elevated thiols 5x the tasting threshold, where as parB is 100-120x
I have searched to see if WLP-077 is more comparable to Cosmic Punch or the patB strains, no info. Being naturally selected strains hopefully it is not to good at converting thiols, lol. Still on the fence about the recipe. I have the ingredients for it so probably just go with that.
 
Thanks for the link, I missed that one. They say that "recent research indicates that whirlpool additions significantly contribute to increased precursors concentration in the wort." The recipe they give uses a 60 min whirlpool but pretty low dosage of hops. Maybe it is more time related?
My homebrew club was fortunate to Lance Shaner (co-founder of Omega) do a google meet with us on thiolized yeast and he said thiols are attracted to the hop material and will drop out with the hops during the whirlpool. So the more hops you use in whirlpool, the more thiols drop out, so it become a deminished return. He also mentioned that it’s better to use t45 pellets (cryo, lupomax, cgx) in the whirlpool and dryhop and it will increase the thiols in the final beer.

This was about 2 years ago now, so things might have changed. I don’t keep up with thiolozed yeast as I am not a fan at all. I’m sensitive to them and feel it makes the beer smell and taste slightly light BO, which makes sense since thiols are sulfur compounds
 
Thanks @Dgallo I really didn’t intend to get back in this thiol game again but I grabbed the wrong yeast. Guess I am too cheap to cut my losses! I will brew this one and see what happens. If it is a thiol bomb it will get dumped.
 
I have searched to see if WLP-077 is more comparable to Cosmic Punch or the patB strains, no info.
My assumption would be that at best it's the same "strength" as Cosmic Punch but may well be weaker still, so I wouldn't worry about it being overpowering like patB strains.
 
I’m sensitive to them and feel it makes the beer smell and taste slightly light BO, which makes sense since thiols are sulfur compounds
Ha! Interesting. I've always found thiol heavy beers to have a distinct "cologne" type of flavor and aroma. I never mind it really, but it always sticks out that way to me.
 
The general consensus seems to be that patB is "too much", and ends up being just one-dimensional thiols.
That is what I got with the one batch I made with Helio Gazer. There was this single note character that really stood out and dominated the overall flavor of the beer. I have been a little curious to try a more tame version like Cosmic Punch. A buddy made a lager with Lunar Crush. It was "interesting"...rather "hoppy" for the limited amount of hops he used...but I would have just preferred a small whirlpool or dry hop addition.
 
Ladies and gents.....I have a problem, and I can't find a solution. I'm leaving almost all of my dry-hop effects behind in my fermenter.

I've been battling this for quite some time now. My most recent batch was kegged a few days ago, and it's once again underwhelming. Vague hop aromas and wispy body. Just another underwhelming hoppy beer. This thing was hit with 6oz of Strata and 2oz of Mosaic. It should stink, and stink great. A 5.6% pale-ale-ish NEIPA/NEPA. 82% MO and 13% Chit, 5% hulls. Imperial Juice.

I went to clean the fermenter today (6gal modded Mega Mouth keg), and the matter left behind smelled absolutely phenomenal. Absolute pulpy, tropical guava juice, and absolutely none of which is translating to the final product.

I'm at a total loss here. Not to sound conceited at ALL, but I know my way around this stuff, which is why its so frustrating. I've brewed countless 4BBL batches commercially, and collab'd with the best. You can assume I do absolutely everything correct, and I still end up with flabby awful homebrew. Losing my mind.

Spitball with me here. Ask me anything about my process, though I'm sure most of the answers will ring the bell of "yeah, sounds like you have everything lined up right". I can't find a solution and can't find anyone to lean on further to help me solve this. As soon as these beers go into the keg and get poured, they just suck.
 
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