New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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What temp do you soft crash to? I’m usually 50 soft and then 40 to cold crash before I transfer to the serving keg.

I noticed my last time I cleaned my fermenter right after transferring and still had a decent amount of beer over the yeast cake (still dialing in amount to put in the new conical). When I opened the dump valve over the sink I got a perfect dump like you see in videos. I’m considering going colder when I dump the yeast and can always let it rise a bit when I dry hop.

Getting a better yeast dump is the one missing part of my cold side process I want to nail.
I soft crash to 50f and my cold crash is 38f
 
The main thing I've noticed with dumping yeast or trub is that going slow is the best way to get the most out. I barely open my butterfly valve, and have maybe 5psi of co2 pushing on it. If you open the valve too far the liquid will punch through and all the trub will stay in the fermenter, it's freakin frustrating hahaha.
 
The main thing I've noticed with dumping yeast or trub is that going slow is the best way to get the most out. I barely open my butterfly valve, and have maybe 5psi of co2 pushing on it. If you open the valve too far the liquid will punch through and all the trub will stay in the fermenter, it's freakin frustrating hahaha.
I do the same but still seem to get beer that punches through. I get a bit each time and try several times. I did put a reducing fitting after the butterfly valve that helped a bit more, but still sounds about like your experience.
 
I think with this batch I'm really going go try to dial in my carbonation and aim for the lower end...probably around 2.3 Volumes of CO2. I may have to adjust my beer lines but my upstairs kegerator is usually kept at 34 degrees and the calculators online are saying 5-8psi for the targeted volumes.
 
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I think with this batch I'm really going go try to dial in my carbonation and aim for the lower end...probably around 2.3 Volumes of CO2. I may have to adjust my beer lines but my upstairs kegerator is usually kept at 34 degrees and the calculators online are saying 5-8psi for the targeted volumes.
I like mine right around there. That said have you ever raise the temp of the kegerator to 40-42? I serve my beers at that temp or a little warmer. Seems to help the aroma pop more
 
I like mine right around there. That said have you ever raise the temp of the kegerator to 40-42? I serve my beers at that temp or a little warmer. Seems to help the aroma pop more
I turned it down to 34 a long time ago because some friends (in the middle of summer) thought the beer should be colder, so I haven't touched it since. I should try it a bit warmer and see what the difference ends up being.
 
I soft crash to 50f and my cold crash is 38f
To follow up I soft crashed this time to 45F and got the most trub/yeast I’ve ever got while dumpling. Doesn’t seem like I got enough to say I got everything (so hard to tell with a stainless) but the last dump attempt it was basically just clear beer so maybe.

I let things warm up then to 50 F and then dry hopped.

The downside is while this went well I forgot to disconnect my blow off and put some CO2 on it while I crashed it so afraid I oxygenated it. I did that one before. I need to make myself a sign so I don’t forget lol
 
Finally got to brewing a hazy, it’s been tough to brew lately with a move and a new baby. But she’s cute and sweeter than her brother, ha!

Just did a Brujos style, trying to hit some extremes.

1.074 OG targeting 1.020-1.022 FG.
2-row 35% the rest wheat and oats, 5% maltodextrin. Chloride 300 ppm.

Lots of citra in the kettle - FW, 10 min, WP. Citra incognito into the fermenter. Planning for citra lupomax, Nelson, motueka dry hop.

Pitched 3 packs (7gal batch) of CS hazy since y’all talked so much shiit on it, gotta give it a chance to prove you wrong!

Will follow up in 4 weeks!
 
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I did catch something while watching one of the latest TH YouTube videos when they went to New Zealand and stopped at a local homebrewer's place. Nate mentioned while looking at the recipe, to not be afraid to add more hops in the boil for further hop saturation, along with the whirlpool. I thought that was interesting so I May try that for my next one.
 
I did catch something while watching one of the latest TH YouTube videos when they went to New Zealand and stopped at a local homebrewer's place. Nate mentioned while looking at the recipe, to not be afraid to add more hops in the boil for further hop saturation, along with the whirlpool. I thought that was interesting so I May try that for my next one.
Especially since the homebrew recipe that they published has very little hops on the hot side. It does have a small bittering charge (20 IBUs), then a small addition at 20 min (for a 5 gal batch, 0.75 oz) and another small addition at flameout (the same 0.75 oz amount). So less hot side hops than I would use for an American Pale Ale batch. That recipe is then heavy on the dry hop amount (around 10 oz).

I was happy with the version of the Tree House IPA that I brewed, but it did not have as much hop flavors as my typical 6 oz whirlpool + 8 oz dry hop process.
 
How much spectrum did you add and when did you add it? Curious on what you think it added, can it be too artificial in flavor?

Cheers! Looks amazing :)



“Hoppendectomy”

9.8%

This was the beer I used superdelic and mosaic spectrum in. Definitely the best hazy beer I’ve made.
View attachment 843225
My appendix was removed while this was conditioning. Made for a fun name 😂.
 
Citra Strata 1:1
WP + 7oz DH
Coastal Haze
2 Row
White Wheat
Carafoam
7.5% abv
20240412_220608.jpg
 
Hey all,

Went ahead and tried my hand at the "Brujos" style of of this beer, and below were my results. Beer came out excellent. Recipe below as well.

The hops on this were really intense. A very "hops out of the bag" character. Very intense/saturated. But it was very pleasant and approachable. All the great fruity and "juicy" characteristics were able to shine through. Aroma jumped out of the glass.

Mouthfeel was on point. Pretty thick. All those adjuncts make a difference.

No hop burn. I let it sit in the keg for 2 weeks before I drank it, but, there was very little, if any, hop burn right out of the fermenter.

It was a great beer. Up at the top of the list for the best I have made. Would brew again for sure. I would make a few tweaks, but overall...awesome beer.

Water:
BJOWater.JPG



Batch Size (To Packaging) (gal):3.5
Target OG:1.075
Target FG:1.015
Target IBUs24
Boil Time:45
Target SRM#:5
Mash Temp (F):156
Mash Time (min)60
Yeast:Lallemand - Verdant Ale

Grain Bill
Grain NameOriginal Amount (lb)Percentage
2-Row Brewer's Malt, Briess840.00%
Flaked Oats420.00%
White Wheat Malt, Briess420.00%
Spelt Malt, Best MALZ420.00%

Hop NameOriginal Amount (oz)Addition Time
Citra0.515
Simcoe0.515
Citra2FO
Simcoe1FO
Citra5DH
Simcoe4DH
Galaxy2DH

Fermentation:
7 Days @ 68F (until fermentation was complete)
Soft crash to 58F, left at 58F for 36 hours. Then did the 1 dry hop addition above.
Left on hops/@ soft crash temp for 48 hours.
Cold crashed for 5 days @ 36F (intention here was 3 days, but had some hop material/clogging issues, so I let it crash a bit more).

Hop Rates (just as a note):
Whirlpool: Approx. 0.5oz/gal
Dry Hop: 2.44oz/gal

BJONEIPA.jpg
 
Hey all,

Went ahead and tried my hand at the "Brujos" style of of this beer, and below were my results. Beer came out excellent. Recipe below as well.

The hops on this were really intense. A very "hops out of the bag" character. Very intense/saturated. But it was very pleasant and approachable. All the great fruity and "juicy" characteristics were able to shine through. Aroma jumped out of the glass.

Mouthfeel was on point. Pretty thick. All those adjuncts make a difference.

No hop burn. I let it sit in the keg for 2 weeks before I drank it, but, there was very little, if any, hop burn right out of the fermenter.

It was a great beer. Up at the top of the list for the best I have made. Would brew again for sure. I would make a few tweaks, but overall...awesome beer.

Water:
View attachment 846539


Batch Size (To Packaging) (gal):3.5
Target OG:1.075
Target FG:1.015
Target IBUs24
Boil Time:45
Target SRM#:5
Mash Temp (F):156
Mash Time (min)60
Yeast:Lallemand - Verdant Ale

Grain Bill
Grain NameOriginal Amount (lb)Percentage
2-Row Brewer's Malt, Briess840.00%
Flaked Oats420.00%
White Wheat Malt, Briess420.00%
Spelt Malt, Best MALZ420.00%

Hop NameOriginal Amount (oz)Addition Time
Citra0.515
Simcoe0.515
Citra2FO
Simcoe1FO
Citra5DH
Simcoe4DH
Galaxy2DH

Fermentation:
7 Days @ 68F (until fermentation was complete)
Soft crash to 58F, left at 58F for 36 hours. Then did the 1 dry hop addition above.
Left on hops/@ soft crash temp for 48 hours.
Cold crashed for 5 days @ 36F (intention here was 3 days, but had some hop material/clogging issues, so I let it crash a bit more).

Hop Rates (just as a note):
Whirlpool: Approx. 0.5oz/gal
Dry Hop: 2.44oz/gal

View attachment 846538

That looks awesome, well done! What tweaks would you make outside of shorter hop contact time?
Although on that note, it seems like you still had great results despite leaving the beer on hops for 5 days. Any hazy brewer on CB&B pod has basically said that they try to give the hops no more than 24-48 hours on the hops, but I wonder why.

I'm curious if there's that much difference between shorter and longer hop contact. At one point I just left my DH keg in the fridge after pulling 90% of the beer out and after about a month in that keg, I couldn't tell the difference between the beer that was on the hops and beer that was in my keg...
 
That looks awesome, well done! What tweaks would you make outside of shorter hop contact time?
Although on that note, it seems like you still had great results despite leaving the beer on hops for 5 days. Any hazy brewer on CB&B pod has basically said that they try to give the hops no more than 24-48 hours on the hops, but I wonder why.

I'm curious if there's that much difference between shorter and longer hop contact. At one point I just left my DH keg in the fridge after pulling 90% of the beer out and after about a month in that keg, I couldn't tell the difference between the beer that was on the hops and beer that was in my keg...

Thanks man! Appreciate it.

My hand was forced for the extended contact time. And, I was really worried about it at the time. The intent was 72 hour cold crash (not sure where that idea came from, but seemed good at the time). But, as I tried to keg at the 72 hour from the start of cold crash, I had major clogging issues (worked for 3 hours, and only got 1 gallon transferred, it was nuts). So, I decided to allow the beer to crash for another 2 days, and see what happened. The beer was awesome at the 3 day cold crash mark, so I was worried. But, the additional 2 days didn't seem to affect much. Cant 100% say for sure, but it turned out good in the end.

As for tweaks to the recipe, I think I would remove some of the adjuncts. Hot side was a sticky mess, and my efficiency was low. My OG target was 1.085, so I missed by 10 points. Which isn't typical for my other brews. I am going to brew this again, with like 65% 2-Row, 15% Oats, 10% Spelt and 10% Wheat. I think the backing down of the adjuncts just a tad wont affect much, but ensure my efficiency is where I want, but still give the mouthfeel I am after.

As a tangent, I really think that the quality of hops we have available to us as homebrewers, REALLY effects the outcome of these beers. I have done just about the same thing as the above on other beers, and have gotten insane hop burns, and terrible tasting beers. But that's a conversation for another time...
 

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