New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Brewing this again tomorrow. Any recommendation to bump the color to more of an orange hue while maintaining flavor?
Add 1/4 pound of Caramel 35 or something like that.

If you want to avoid adding caramel malts, you could try 1-2 ounces of Roast Barley, Carafe, Midnight Wheat...... something like that. It will add color, but there is not enough of it to add flavor.

Probably want to shoot for 7 SRM or so would be my guess.
 

grassfeeder

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thinking about doing a light sessional all citra crusher. here is where Im at so far, what do you guys think?

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: American IPA
Boil Time: 90 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons (fermentor volume)
Boil Size: 7.5 gallons
Boil Gravity: 1.034
Efficiency: 60% (brew house)


STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.046
Final Gravity: 1.012
ABV (standard): 4.58%
IBU (tinseth): 0
SRM (morey): 3.69

FERMENTABLES:
American - Pilsner (77.3%)
American - White Wheat (9.1%)
Flaked Oats (9.1%)
Corn Sugar - Dextrose (4.5%)

HOPS:
3 oz - Citra, Type: Whirlpool for 30 min at 170 °F
4 oz - Citra, Type: Dry Hop for 5 days

MASH GUIDELINES:
1) Temp: 150 F, Time: 60 min
Starting Mash Thickness: 1.25 qt/lb

YEAST:
Imperial Yeast - A24 Dry Hop

Attenuation (avg): 73%
Flocculation: Medium
Fermentation Temp: 65 F, climb to 70 at end of fermentation.
 

TxBigHops

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I've had good luck with Yeast Bay. However, I always take the first generation through a low abv. Blonde Ale. Then I collect yeast for re-pitching purposes into bigger IPA's... I think if you pitch first generation Conan into a 1.060+ IPA (even with a starter) you are definitely flirting with the possibility of the beer finishing out at 1.014-1.016 range.
Is this a bad thing? I've brewed three attempts at this. The first was a low gravity session type that finished at 1.014 with 1450. The other two started around 1.064 and finished at 1.016 with 1318. Exactly where I wanted them to finish.
 

scottsor

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Is this a bad thing? I've brewed three attempts at this. The first was a low gravity session type that finished at 1.014 with 1450. The other two started around 1.064 and finished at 1.016 with 1318. Exactly where I wanted them to finish.
I'd definitely say the .014-.016 range is acceptable for this style, plenty of professional brewers aim for this range. There are some very well known breweries of this style that finish off at .018. I think it's totally up to your preference. I have one that finished off at .015 with 1318 that I'm planning to keg Friday
 
OP
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Is this a bad thing? I've brewed three attempts at this. The first was a low gravity session type that finished at 1.014 with 1450. The other two started around 1.064 and finished at 1.016 with 1318. Exactly where I wanted them to finish.
I think it depends a little. Ultimately, the key is that it tastes good and you are happy with it.

I consistently end up right at 1.012 with Conan as long as it is not first generation and I run it through a session blonde ale first. I know it is probably the biggest complaint I hear on Conan.... beers finishing out higher than what people were hoping for: 1.014-1.016-1.018 even.

There is some obvious benefit to a session IPA finishing a bit high so that it does not come off as thin, and it can hold up to the hops. Bigger IPA's tend to finish a bit higher. Extract beers will finish higher as well.

I just think that is the approximate range though where people start getting skittish about the beer finishing on the high side.
 

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Interesting! I'll try that. So like, after fg is hit, and it is conditioning you let it freerise up to 80? Or is that the d rest?
ive never gotten diacetyl from it. but i guess it could be done for either. after about a week fermentation is usually done or near done for us, so we'll turn off the temp control, let it go to room temp. dry hop if its a dry hopped beer, let sit for a few days. then package.
 

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brewed 2 batches this week.
2.5 gallons
1.050, 70% german pils, 10% wheat, 10% oats, 10% sugar
apollo to bitter, palisade/apollo at FO, dry hopped yesterday with mosaic and simcoe
100/100ppm chloride sulfate
conan
1st time using oats in this style, curious to see how it turns out

15 gallons
1.062
70% canadian 2 row, 25% wheat, 5% sugar
magnum to bitter, simcoe/apollo/mosaic at FO. will dry hop with mosaic and simcoe
150 chloride, 75 sulfite.
10g with conan. 5g with s-05.
 

EndOfLine

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brewed 2 batches this week.
2.5 gallons
1.050, 70% german pils, 10% wheat, 10% oats, 10% sugar
apollo to bitter, palisade/apollo at FO, dry hopped yesterday with mosaic and simcoe
100/100ppm chloride sulfate
conan
1st time using oats in this style, curious to see how it turns out

15 gallons
1.062
70% canadian 2 row, 25% wheat, 5% sugar
magnum to bitter, simcoe/apollo/mosaic at FO. will dry hop with mosaic and simcoe
150 chloride, 75 sulfite.
10g with conan. 5g with s-05.
Apollo and palisade! Don't think I have done or seen that combo before! I recall Apollo being very dank with orange, garlic/onion, and palisade with a lot of fruit.
 

EndOfLine

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The folks that I know who have had problems with US05 have ONLY had problems with it on heavily hopped NE IPA type beers. No problems at all on other beers. And, it was always something that happened post primary fermentation.... during dry hopping. It was weird.... but, predictable in those types of beers. They went from great after primary to somewhat "off-putting" after dry hop.

They got a lot of cloudiness from US05 too - had to do fining to get any level of clarity.

Other similar liquid varieties (1272, 1056.... types) - no problems.
I don't doubt you. However this is still very bizarre to hear. Like, why would 05 do this. Does the hop oils added during primary some how inhibit dacetyl from being absorbed all the way? Does the sudden increase of post ferm ph, when adding a lot of dry hops, some how stress the yeast that is still in suspension, making them secrete out absorbed dacetyl? I am trying to wrap my head around why this could happen.
 
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I don't doubt you. However this is still very bizarre to hear. Like, why would 05 do this. Does the hop oils added during primary some how inhibit dacetyl from being absorbed all the way? Does the sudden increase of post ferm ph, when adding a lot of dry hops, some how stress the yeast that is still in suspension, making them secrete out absorbed dacetyl? I am trying to wrap my head around why this could happen.
I know... but I have personally tasted beer from the fermenter that was awesome.... several days later... not awesome. They had no answer or explanation either.

I have read a few posts on Probrewer and other forums discussing similar type things - some with US 05, some not.

I know it is an issue though - and I think it is surfacing in beers like this one.... sort of the "NE IPA" type beers. It is enough of a thing that some pretty significant people are looking into it.

http://www.mbaa.com/meetings/archive/2013/proceedings/Pages/37.aspx
 

EndOfLine

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I know... but I have personally tasted beer from the fermenter that was awesome.... several days later... not awesome. They had no answer or explanation either.

I have read a few posts on Probrewer and other forums discussing similar type things - some with US 05, some not.

I know it is an issue though - and I think it is surfacing in beers like this one.... sort of the "NE IPA" type beers. It is enough of a thing that some pretty significant people are looking into it.

http://www.mbaa.com/meetings/archive/2013/proceedings/Pages/37.aspx
Thank you for the link! :D I am going to read as much as I can regarding this.
 
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The filter that's linked is this http://www.homebrewing.org/300-Micron-Hop-Filter-w-Lid_p_3470.html. I noticed that the length of this is only 11 1/2 ", which is only just over half the length of a corny keg. Is this the same filter, or are you using another one?
I would say that is very similar or the same as what I use.... However, I use a stainless mesh sleeve over the dip tube, and then this filter goes over that.....

I think some people drill out the lid so the dip tube will slide through it.

Then I just throw the hops in the dry hopping keg loose, on the outside of the filter.
 

philipCT

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The filter that's linked is this http://www.homebrewing.org/300-Micron-Hop-Filter-w-Lid_p_3470.html. I noticed that the length of this is only 11 1/2 ", which is only just over half the length of a corny keg. Is this the same filter, or are you using another one?
I ordered the longer ones. About 22" high - directly from Arbor Fabrication. Free shipping. Awesome customer service. Really well made just like the other stuff I've purchased from them. These are the guys who make the ones sold at homebrewing.org anyway.

These are in their first run with my two newly configured DH kegs right now and they seem to be a perfect fit.
 

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I ordered the longer ones. About 22" high - directly from Arbor Fabrication. Free shipping. Awesome customer service. Really well made just like the other stuff I've purchased from them. These are the guys who make the ones sold at homebrewing.org anyway.

These are in their first run with my two newly configured DH kegs right now and they seem to be a perfect fit.
Are you guys using these to filter pellet hops in the keg or whole cone?
 

Johow

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So I hear a lot of talk of using a dry hop keg and then transferring to a serving keg. I only have 2 kegs and they are full of beer currently. So I wanted to get this beer off the yeast/trub cake for the second hop addition so I racked in a closed c02 system that I recently put together. It worked quite well. I added my second helping of dry hops (1 oz each Mosaic, Citra & Amarillo) and in a few days I'll gas it over to a keg that will hopefully be empty and ready to go. Guess I better get working on that keg now!!!

IMG_0534.jpg
 

SecondSuitor

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I brewed a batch of this recently and followed the updated post to the T. My only deviation was using Maris Otter instead of Golden Promise. Wonderful recipe! I'll be brewing again!

 

Upthewazzu

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Made this with 1056 back in August, it's been in the keg over two months now:



With enough wheat (flaked or otherwise) and oats, it'll never clear. Before anyone asks, no it's not to style, it's way too bitter and too "hot" (alcoholy). I used a full ounce of Columbus at FWH and then an ounce of Mosaic, Calypso, and Azacca at 12, 4, 1, WP, and DH. IMO, not very good, won't do it again. But I have tweaked it a bit and will see how it goes when it's done fermenting in about a week or so.
 

stickyfinger

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I know... but I have personally tasted beer from the fermenter that was awesome.... several days later... not awesome. They had no answer or explanation either.

I have read a few posts on Probrewer and other forums discussing similar type things - some with US 05, some not.

I know it is an issue though - and I think it is surfacing in beers like this one.... sort of the "NE IPA" type beers. It is enough of a thing that some pretty significant people are looking into it.

http://www.mbaa.com/meetings/archive/2013/proceedings/Pages/37.aspx
Wow! This is fascinating! I have used US-05 for a few years with great results. I have never had diacetyl in low-hopped beers. I made a Barleywine with it a few months ago, and I tasted it in primary. It tasted great. It had less hop character than I wanted, so I decided to throw in another load of dry hops. I kegged the beer without tasting it again and when I did, it was a super diacetyl Worther's Original bomb!!! I was absolutely shocked, as it tasted great in primary, after a long warm rest. There was no detectable diacetyl to me. I think there must be something to this hopping with US-05 occasionally leading to diacetyl!

I know diacetyl can come from yeast activity, but it can also come from microbial contamination. I wonder if there is some sort of synergy somehow between any microbes on the dry hops and a US-05-fermented beer? It is VERY strange!
 

stickyfinger

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Made this with 1056 back in August, it's been in the keg over two months now:



With enough wheat (flaked or otherwise) and oats, it'll never clear. Before anyone asks, no it's not to style, it's way too bitter and too "hot" (alcoholy). I used a full ounce of Columbus at FWH and then an ounce of Mosaic, Calypso, and Azacca at 12, 4, 1, WP, and DH. IMO, not very good, won't do it again. But I have tweaked it a bit and will see how it goes when it's done fermenting in about a week or so.
Whoa! I can't believe it is that cloudy after 2 months! I've never seen a beer stay that cloudy that long. Did you shake or move the keg?
 

stickyfinger

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I am now drinking from a 12 gallon batch I made. This time I used

80% Thomas Fawcett Golden Promise Malt
20% Instant Oats
Ca 119 ppm
SO4 75 ppm
Cl 150 ppm
Rager IBU calc 20 IBUs

165F mash with mashout
OG 1.059 FG 1.017 WLP095

I did a 12 gallon batch and split it into two. Both were fermented with WLP095.

I added only bittering hops to the kettle again and then at about day 4 into the primary, I added

-12 oz citra to one
-6 oz citra + 6 oz mosaic to the other

I am very impressed with the hop character. They are dripping with hop aroma and flavor! I love doing split batches and then dry hopping differently. It tastes a little too dry to me though. I am thinking of dropping the kettle IBUs or maybe adding in some crystal 10L or crystal 20L next time to get a little more perception of sweetness. it is fantastic though, and i tend to drink it colder than i should. I should also drop the SO4 down to levels in my water (no salt addns - around 15 ppm) to see how that tastes.

comments on the hop flavor:

100% citra: i really LOVE citra! what a fantastic hop. It imparts such a smooth, clean, soft hop flavor. I think there must be fewer beta acids in it, as I don't get as much bitterness from the dryhop in this version. sometimes when i drink it, i crave more grungy, dank quality (thinking of CTZ, Summit, Galaxy), but sometimes I just sit back and really enjoy the flavor as-is, very clean.

50% citra + 50% mosaic: this one has a really great aroma as well, with more that grungy, dank aroma, but just a little of that. it is definitely more complex and definitely more bitter. I really crave this version sometimes. It does come across as a very slight kind of faint butterscotch or something reminiscent of that at times. I am almost certain I don't have diacetyl, it is just a hop flavor coming from the mosaic that in this case comes off as kind of that character at times, depending on what I have consumed, etc. I think I like this version better, but then I hit the 100% Citra, and that probably is the winner for me.

After this attempt, I think I am interested in doing the original citra:mosaic:galaxy and then a citra:galaxy. I think the galaxy has that dankness that I am looking for. I am also interested in doing another single-hop version, maybe simcoe to see how that is. it's a great way to learn about what hops contribute since you can taste the flavor so strongly in these beers!
 

Upthewazzu

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Whoa! I can't believe it is that cloudy after 2 months! I've never seen a beer stay that cloudy that long. Did you shake or move the keg?
The keg was moved once (took it tailgating) but that was back in September. The color hasn't deviated one bit since it was kegged.
 

grassfeeder

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The keg was moved once (took it tailgating) but that was back in September. The color hasn't deviated one bit since it was kegged.
I've never had to shake the keg or do any of that stuff. I don't understand why people are having these beers clear up. Perhaps not adding enough wheat and oats? wrong yeast?
 

stickyfinger

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I've never had to shake the keg or do any of that stuff. I don't understand why people are having these beers clear up. Perhaps not adding enough wheat and oats? wrong yeast?
Well, after 2 months, mine will be getting pretty clear I think, with slight hop haze still. it makes sense that his keg was moved in Sept.

I used 20% oats on my last one. I think it's the hops (and yeast in the early days) that make it so cloudy. One issue is that I store mine pretty cold. That tends to drop the yeast after a month.
 

grassfeeder

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I still haven't had any clearing in any of mine. I've got 3 kegs on, all different variations, I've yet to lose any of the haze after 70 days.
 

grassfeeder

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70 days?
why haven't you finished the kegs yet? lol:tank:
I had to leave for Asia for a month for business and then there were so many damn amazing fresh hop events around town it was a tough time to stay home and drink.
 

stjimmyjos

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Ha.... I was thinking the same thing. I blew through 3-4 kegs this month:tank:

I did have help:mug:
What do you think about adding 2nd dry hop addition at the same fermenter, with 1st addition of hops? I just added around ~4 oz of hops to the primary. And how long? I was thinking about 5 day on primary, then add same amount for 2 -3 days - not just sure about adding in the same fermentor or rack it to second?
 

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Just brewed again yesterday, I was gong to do the exact same as the first time since its so good, but...I just can't not tweak a little. This time I added an oz of Citra at 10 minutes...just for fun :)

I must drink way too much. I have trouble keeping ANY keg for more than 2 weeks...I just moved my first keg of this I tapped last Friday to add another keg to the keezer, the NE IPA keg was mighty light...I need to start doing 10 gallon batches...
 

rtracer

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What do you think about adding 2nd dry hop addition at the same fermenter, with 1st addition of hops? I just added around ~4 oz of hops to the primary. And how long? I was thinking about 5 day on primary, then add same amount for 2 -3 days - not just sure about adding in the same fermentor or rack it to second?
My first brew of this I added the 3 oz on day 4, then the second 3 oz on day 10ish all in primary. I kegged on day 15. No bags, no racking, no grassy flavors or anything. I don't know if it even helps, but when I am doing second dryhop(well after primary fermentation is done) I dangle a Co2 line in the carboy down near beer and run a very light stream of co2 as I am adding my dryhops.
 

stickyfinger

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What do you think about adding 2nd dry hop addition at the same fermenter, with 1st addition of hops? I just added around ~4 oz of hops to the primary. And how long? I was thinking about 5 day on primary, then add same amount for 2 -3 days - not just sure about adding in the same fermentor or rack it to second?
I added 12 oz to my 6.5 gal. carboy on day 4 last time, and it gave great flavor. I think it works fine. You might want to shake the carboy periodically to get the hops to go into the beer more.
 

Schemy

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So here is my results from the all Centennial Ipa i brewed.

Brewing this today

OG 1.068
IBU's 74

80% Vienna Malt
10% Rye Malt
10% White Wheat Malt
.75 oz Centennial FWH
1 oz Centennial 15 min
3.5 oz Centennial 30 min Whirlpool
Yeastbay VT IPA yeast.
3 oz dry hop (Primary)
2.5 oz dry hop (Keg)

Water profile Shooting for

Ca 96
Mg 12
Na 28
SO4 67
Cl 128
HCO3 70
pH 5.2 - 5.4

View attachment 1477666663839.jpg
 

mgr_stl

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Are you guys cold crashing your NE IPAs? Will that eliminate the haze/cloudiness that you want with this style?
 

Adaman05

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So here is my results from the all Centennial Ipa i brewed.

Brewing this today

OG 1.068
IBU's 74

80% Vienna Malt
10% Rye Malt
10% White Wheat Malt
.75 oz Centennial FWH
1 oz Centennial 15 min
3.5 oz Centennial 30 min Whirlpool
Yeastbay VT IPA yeast.

Water profile Shooting for

Ca 96
Mg 12
Na 28
SO4 67
Cl 128
HCO3 70
pH 5.2 - 5.4

I see a photo but no tasting notes or other "results". How did it turn out? 5.25 oz of hops for a NE style IPA isn't much at all.
 
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