New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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BeerFst

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Juicy Bits clone.

A38, Citra, Mosaic and El Dorado, blend of Lupomax and T90.

Having had the real thing recently, I nailed the flavor dead on. Color is a bit dark, but I'll take it.
View attachment 780784

did you simplify the whirlpool schedule or do the 3 different ones at different temps? Always seemed like overkill to me to do it the way the official clone is written.
 

Benson Brewhouse

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did you simplify the whirlpool schedule or do the 3 different ones at different temps? Always seemed like overkill to me to do it the way the official clone is written.
No, I did exactly as in the recipe @180° for 40, 30 and 20 min.

On most previous brews I'm typically WP for 30 min @170-180°, with additions at 30 and 15.

It would be difficult to distinguish the differences between the two different WP schedules above without being able to do a side-by-side, but I will say the Juicy Bits clone turned out phenomenal and the aroma is probably the best I've produced yet. I'll likely use that extended WP schedule on a NEIPA I've made a few times and see if/how it changes it.
 
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R.A.I.D

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I am going to try Omega Yeast Cosmic Punch in my next NEIPA.
What would you recommend as mash hop for boosting the triols?

WP will be Cryo Pop or similar T90 blend.
DH will be Nectaron. And keg hop will be bit of Citra cryo.
 

ihavenonickname

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Yeah mash hops make a big impact for that pungent tropical effect. I’ve done it with and without. But there is something about this yeast that the dry hops seems to take away from the tropical thiol presence. I didn’t love any of the three beers I made with it. Jury is still out on how to best treat it, maybe you will figure something out!
Edit: oh I did 2-4 oz in the mash of cascade then Columbus (saaz and cascade are popular choices) definately made a more tropical beer at the end of fermentation. Keep in mind the ibus they will add.
 
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Northern_Brewer

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(saaz and cascade are popular choices) definately made a more tropical beer at the end of fermentation. Keep in mind the ibus they will add.
Won't be many from Saaz.

I don't suppose anyone's seen anything on bound thiols in English hops? I assume it's one of those things that Farams are the only people likely to cough up the £££ to pay for the lab work, I've not seen anything from them though.
 

rnewt

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Won't be many from Saaz.

I don't suppose anyone's seen anything on bound thiols in English hops? I assume it's one of those things that Farams are the only people likely to cough up the £££ to pay for the lab work, I've not seen anything from them though.

I thought saaz, while not a popular aroma hop for NEIPA, is surprisingly high in bound thiols that are freed during mash?
 

ihavenonickname

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Latest and greatest. I've done lots of experimentation, but this was designed around just use all my favorites.
GW 2-row, malted oats, raw wheat. Verdant, just so easy. Citra, Strata, Galaxy, Nelson, all t90. 10 min, WP, dry hop 10 oz Recently realized Im a fan of lower carb 2.3vol, great fluffy body. raw wheat seems to help with that sticky foam. 1.075 ->1.016. 4 weeks in the keg, its the beer I hide and keep to myself! Thanks for all the insights on this thread.
7FE860E5-BE3D-4E05-BE9D-0727BA8DD8CD.JPG
15361949-56DD-4CE6-9197-0171655219E0.JPG
 
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Noob_Brewer

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Latest and greatest. I've done lots of experimentation, but this was designed around just use all my favorites.
GW 2-row, malted oats, raw wheat. Verdant, just so easy. Citra, Strata, Galaxy, Nelson, all t90. 10 min, WP, dry hop 10 oz Recently realized Im a fan of lower carb 2.3vol, great fluffy body. raw wheat seems to help with that sticky foam. 1.075 ->1.016. 4 weeks in the keg, its the beer I hide and keep to myself! Thanks for all the insights on this thread.
View attachment 781402 View attachment 781403
Looks great man! Never used raw wheat before. Besides the foam, you notice any other differences between raw wheat and normal white wheat malt? Thats a BIG hop combo you got there too! Which hops did you use in the late boil additions?
 

wepeeler

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Looks great man! Never used raw wheat before. Besides the foam, you notice any other differences between raw wheat and normal white wheat malt? Thats a BIG hop combo you got there too! Which hops did you use in the late boil additions?
This is the question I ask my local hb show all the time, and the guy working there just says they open whatever bag of wheat they have at the time. SMH. So sometimes I'm getting raw and other times I'm getting malted? Drives me up a wall. But I honestly can't tell a difference...
 

ihavenonickname

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Looks great man! Never used raw wheat before. Besides the foam, you notice any other differences between raw wheat and normal white wheat malt? Thats a BIG hop combo you got there too! Which hops did you use in the late boil additions?
Yeah first time using raw wheat can't say I could tell you exactly what it did. But a local brewery that I love put me onto it, their brewer said he swears by it for hazies (its called There Does Not Exist). I split Citra/Strata in the late boil (1oz) and WP (3 oz) and Strata 4, Nelson 4, Galaxy 2. Its pretty cool each hope comes through pretty clearly from the dry hop. I thought can't go wrong with all the best hops.

Follow up question, I got a pound of bru-1 from yvh and I wanted to pair it with citra and sabro. I know sabro can come across dominant. Would 1oz of LupoMax Sabro be good in a 8-10oz DH, or use 2oz? Otherewise thinking lots of Bru-1 and citra everywhere else in the beer.
 

BongoYodeler

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Yeah first time using raw wheat can't say I could tell you exactly what it did. But a local brewery that I love put me onto it, their brewer said he swears by it for hazies (its called There Does Not Exist). I split Citra/Strata in the late boil (1oz) and WP (3 oz) and Strata 4, Nelson 4, Galaxy 2. Its pretty cool each hope comes through pretty clearly from the dry hop. I thought can't go wrong with all the best hops.

Follow up question, I got a pound of bru-1 from yvh and I wanted to pair it with citra and sabro. I know sabro can come across dominant. Would 1oz of LupoMax Sabro be good in a 8-10oz DH, or use 2oz? Otherewise thinking lots of Bru-1 and citra everywhere else in the beer.
TDNE brews some really good beers, one of my favorite local breweries. Earlier this year they won the top DIPA award at the SF Beer Festival, beating out Pliny the Elder.
 

Benson Brewhouse

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While I consistently make phenomenal tasting NEIPA (aroma and flavor are excellent), I continue to miss the color I'm aiming for. I know cameras/pictures are subjective with how they translate online, but it seems the majority of examples I see here have that amazing pale yellow hue I've been trying to achieve.

No matter how I tweak my recipes to lower the SRM, it seems I always have a bit more orange hue than I wanted. It's a great/vibrant orange (zero oxidation), but nevertheless not the color I wanted.

What's the most likely variable that could be adding unintended color to my NEIPA's?

Some things I've been considering:
  • I run a single vessel, brew in a basket system — I do get a small amount of grain through my basket and eventually into the boil kettle. Could boiling this small amount of grain be the culprit?
  • I run a steam condenser, with a 5500watt element @ 40% power and the boil is still ridiculously vigorous (1.1 gal/hr evap). I haven't played with this, but could it be possible I'm boiling too hard? I could back this off a bit if needed.
  • Anything else I'm not considering
And if it helps, my typical recipe is in the ballpark of 60% 2-row/pilsner, 30% flaked oats/wheat, 10% carapils - depending on the base malt, I'm typically somewhere between 3.8 - 5 for the SRM, but again, to my perception they're coming out a bit darker.

Thanks for any input!
 

beervoid

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While I consistently make phenomenal tasting NEIPA (aroma and flavor are excellent), I continue to miss the color I'm aiming for. I know cameras/pictures are subjective with how they translate online, but it seems the majority of examples I see here have that amazing pale yellow hue I've been trying to achieve.

No matter how I tweak my recipes to lower the SRM, it seems I always have a bit more orange hue than I wanted. It's a great/vibrant orange (zero oxidation), but nevertheless not the color I wanted.

What's the most likely variable that could be adding unintended color to my NEIPA's?

Some things I've been considering:
  • I run a single vessel, brew in a basket system — I do get a small amount of grain through my basket and eventually into the boil kettle. Could boiling this small amount of grain be the culprit?
  • I run a steam condenser, with a 5500watt element @ 40% power and the boil is still ridiculously vigorous (1.1 gal/hr evap). I haven't played with this, but could it be possible I'm boiling too hard? I could back this off a bit if needed.
  • Anything else I'm not considering
And if it helps, my typical recipe is in the ballpark of 60% 2-row/pilsner, 30% flaked oats/wheat, 10% carapils - depending on the base malt, I'm typically somewhere between 3.8 - 5 for the SRM, but again, to my perception they're coming out a bit darker.

Thanks for any input!
Boil gentle as possible see if it improves.
Efficiency also plays a role, the more higher the efficiency the less grains you need so lower color
 
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So I kegged my most recent neipa this past Thursday, force carbed, I know its early yet but this beer is pretty good but it might be lacking a little even though my hop schedule was the exact same as my last batch. I'm not going to jump the gun because it needs atleast another week to 10 days before I make any serious opinion of the beer. That said, I am submitting this to PA state finals competition so I don't want it to be short on anything. My thought was if I felt the need to add more hops, could I sanitize a fresh keg, put some hops in a hop screen thingy, drop that in the keg and purge the ever living daylights out of it, then do a closed transer to that keg and leave the hops in there? I know I should just leave it alone, it's a damn good beer, but I'm looking for perfect. I don't know that I would even try this.. also to note is that I would be using a beer gun to bottle a couple bottles that get submitted to the judges and I'll do that the day before competition. I brew 15 gallon at a time so as a back up I still have 2 other kegs that I could bottle my competition beers from... oh here's a pic of the sample.
20220919_194323.jpg
 

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aaronm13

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So I kegged my most recent neipa this past Thursday, force carbed, I know its early yet but this beer is pretty good but it might be lacking a little even though my hop schedule was the exact same as my last batch. I'm not going to jump the gun because it needs atleast another week to 10 days before I make any serious opinion of the beer. That said, I am submitting this to PA state finals competition so I don't want it to be short on anything. My thought was if I felt the need to add more hops, could I sanitize a fresh keg, put some hops in a hop screen thingy, drop that in the keg and purge the ever living daylights out of it, then do a closed transer to that keg and leave the hops in there? I know I should just leave it alone, it's a damn good beer, but I'm looking for perfect. I don't know that I would even try this.. also to note is that I would be using a beer gun to bottle a couple bottles that get submitted to the judges and I'll do that the day before competition. I brew 15 gallon at a time so as a back up I still have 2 other kegs that I could bottle my competition beers from... oh here's a pic of the sample.
View attachment 781465
I've faced this problem a few times now and have just put the hops in a stainless hop spider, turn the gas on and open the PRV so I can open the lid. Drop the hops in, seal back up and purge a few times. Think once you have gas on the whole time you should be ok. I've left the hops in kegs for a couple of months sometimes with no off flavors from being on the hops for an extended time or zero signs of oxidation. Weighed up the option of transferring to another keg but think this has the chance of less pick up, especially if the new keg isn't as well purged.

I turn the keg upside down once a day for a few minutes for up to 3-4 days so the hops don't get really compacted in the spider. First few times I tried this method I didn't flip the keg and there was a lot of dry pellets when I opened the keg up at the end.
 

Taket_al_Tauro

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There currently seems to be a trend towards getting the lightest possible NEIPAs (color-wise) . Personally I like a nice orange color even better for this style, or is it just me?
By the way, talking about head retention, this is my latest ant the first time using spelt malt. Holy hell what an awesome head retention and lacing this beer has.
I'm usually getting pretty good head retention in my brews, but this one is really at another level. I suspect the spelt did help with that.
So huge thanks to you guys for all the amazing info here, including
the citra/Nelson hop combo idea! I did a split-batch on this one with a purely mosaic dry hop on the second half of the batch, and the citra/Nelson combo wins, hands down. Cheers!
20220919_101604.jpg
 
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I make a couple different neipas, one is more orange and the other is lighter. I do prefer the slightly orange hue. But my last 2 were lighter. Planning a bru1, citra, galaxy for my next one and I plan to use a little more honey malt to help with the orange color.
 
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I've faced this problem a few times now and have just put the hops in a stainless hop spider, turn the gas on and open the PRV so I can open the lid. Drop the hops in, seal back up and purge a few times. Think once you have gas on the whole time you should be ok. I've left the hops in kegs for a couple of months sometimes with no off flavors from being on the hops for an extended time or zero signs of oxidation. Weighed up the option of transferring to another keg but think this has the chance of less pick up, especially if the new keg isn't as well purged.

I turn the keg upside down once a day for a few minutes for up to 3-4 days so the hops don't get really compacted in the spider. First few times I tried this method I didn't flip the keg and there was a lot of dry pellets when I opened the keg up at the end.
I would just add to keep the keg in the soft crash temp range 60F or below when adding the hop spider to prevent hop creep to kickstart a secondary fermentation and possible diacetyl formation if the beer is then cooled before the yeast clean up.
 
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I would just add to keep the keg in the soft crash temp range 60F or below when adding the hop spider to prevent hop creep to kickstart a secondary fermentation and possible diacetyl formation if the beer is then cooled before the yeast clean up.
If I do this it will be at or close to serving temp. Thanks
 

wepeeler

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There currently seems to be a trend towards getting the lightest possible NEIPAs (color-wise) . Personally I like a nice orange color even better for this style, or is it just me?
By the way, talking about head retention, this is my latest ant the first time using spelt malt. Holy hell what an awesome head retention and lacing this beer has.
I'm usually getting pretty good head retention in my brews, but this one is really at another level. I suspect the spelt did help with that.
So huge thanks to you guys for all the amazing info here, including
the citra/Nelson hop combo idea! I did a split-batch on this one with a purely mosaic dry hop on the second half of the batch, and the citra/Nelson combo wins, hands down. Cheers!
View attachment 781469
That's typically the color I get when using Mecca malts. Much lighter straw yellow when using Rahr. Personally love the Mecca malts!!
 

rnewt

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There currently seems to be a trend towards getting the lightest possible NEIPAs (color-wise) . Personally I like a nice orange color even better for this style, or is it just me?
By the way, talking about head retention, this is my latest ant the first time using spelt malt. Holy hell what an awesome head retention and lacing this beer has.
I'm usually getting pretty good head retention in my brews, but this one is really at another level. I suspect the spelt did help with that.
So huge thanks to you guys for all the amazing info here, including
the citra/Nelson hop combo idea! I did a split-batch on this one with a purely mosaic dry hop on the second half of the batch, and the citra/Nelson combo wins, hands down. Cheers!
View attachment 781469

That's a beautiful color! I prefer more of a straw color myself but these all look great.
 

Taket_al_Tauro

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That's typically the color I get when using Mecca malts. Much lighter straw yellow when using Rahr. Personally love the Mecca malts!!
Since I live in Europe I'm typically a user of either Weyermann and/or english malts. This one was a blend of maris otter, weyermann barke pilsner, 25% spelt malt and 1% Caramunich III.
 

youngdh

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O2 will darken the final product. Try to do a low/no oxygen transfer from fermenter to packaging.
 

BeerFst

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Yeah first time using raw wheat can't say I could tell you exactly what it did. But a local brewery that I love put me onto it, their brewer said he swears by it for hazies (its called There Does Not Exist). I split Citra/Strata in the late boil (1oz) and WP (3 oz) and Strata 4, Nelson 4, Galaxy 2. Its pretty cool each hope comes through pretty clearly from the dry hop. I thought can't go wrong with all the best hops.

Follow up question, I got a pound of bru-1 from yvh and I wanted to pair it with citra and sabro. I know sabro can come across dominant. Would 1oz of LupoMax Sabro be good in a 8-10oz DH, or use 2oz? Otherewise thinking lots of Bru-1 and citra everywhere else in the beer.
I haven't used the lupomax Sabro (or any lupo yet) but i did 1oz sabro, 7oz galaxy in a beer a year or two ago. I was also concerned about sabro overpowering. It definitely added something, more of a tropical vibe, than coconut. I think you'd be fine with 1oz lupo sabro, and you might consider going slightly higher
 

schmurf

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It's not often I'm doing NEIPAS so I would appreciate some help how to hop this one I'm planning to make. I'm doing this one to share with some friends of mine and I know they like them with very restrained bitterness. I'm thinking of using the same grain bill as last time I did a NEIPA since I was pretty satisfied with that, a blend of Golden Promise, Spelt and malted oats.

This is the hops I have at hand:

Mosaic
Hop burst Magnifico, which I understand is liquid extract of Mosaic
Citra lupomax
Amarillo cryo
Amarillo T90
Nectaron
Centennial
Chinook

Anyone have any suggestions on how to use them, and/or if I need to complement with something else?
 

elproducto

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This is one of the best threads on the interwebs hand down for discussion of hop forward beers.

Are people actually brewing OP's recipe anymore? Or have most branched out to their own recipes.
 

rnewt

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This is one of the best threads on the interwebs hand down for discussion of hop forward beers.

Are people actually brewing OP's recipe anymore? Or have most branched out to their own recipes.

I can't speak for everybody, but when I combed through the thread I think I noticed most recent recipes settling in something like:
~60-85% base malt
~15-35% wheat/oats/spelt/etc
Lightly adding Honey malt/carafoam/carapils/crystal20-40 to preference

~15-30 IBUs, 6-8oz post boil, 6-10oz dry hop. (oz for 5ish gallon batches)

Perhaps the biggest change many people are doing post OP is cold crash/soft crash before dry hop and noticing less hop burn.

Popular yeasts include Dry Hop, Juice, Verdant, East Coast Ale, and others

Some variation in water chemistry.
 
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elproducto

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I can't speak for everybody, but when I combed through the thread I think I noticed most recent recipes settling in something like:
~60-85% base malt
~15-35% wheat/oats/spelt/etc
Lightly adding Honey malt/carafoam/carapils/crystal20-40 to preference

~15-30 IBUs, 6-8oz post boil, 6-10oz dry hop. (oz for 5ish gallon batches)

Perhaps the biggest change many people are doing post OP is cold crash/soft crash before dry hop and noticing less hop burn.

Popular yeasts include Dry Hop, Juice, Verdant, East Coast Ale, and others

Some variation in water chemistry.
Nice, those are in line with most of the changes I've made to my SOP's.
 

Bill2017

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This thread has been a great resource for brewing NEIPA‘s. Thanks to all for your contributions. Here’s my first batch with Citra, Nelson & Mosaic. Like some have said, “better than what’s available nearby” 👍
 

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ihavenonickname

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It's not often I'm doing NEIPAS so I would appreciate some help how to hop this one I'm planning to make. I'm doing this one to share with some friends of mine and I know they like them with very restrained bitterness. I'm thinking of using the same grain bill as last time I did a NEIPA since I was pretty satisfied with that, a blend of Golden Promise, Spelt and malted oats.

This is the hops I have at hand:

Mosaic
Hop burst Magnifico, which I understand is liquid extract of Mosaic
Citra lupomax
Amarillo cryo
Amarillo T90
Nectaron
Centennial
Chinook

Anyone have any suggestions on how to use them, and/or if I need to complement with something else?
Use all your citra mosaic Amarillo products, those sound great. Low IBU, low ish WP temp, do t go too crazy with dry hop - I find that’s the crowd pleaser hazy. Save your nectaron for the neipa for yourself!
 

schmurf

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Use all your citra mosaic Amarillo products, those sound great. Low IBU, low ish WP temp, do t go too crazy with dry hop - I find that’s the crowd pleaser hazy. Save your nectaron for the neipa for yourself!
Low-ish WP temp, something like 70-75C (158-167F)?

Would the following be a good idea:

WP: Amarillo (T90) + Mosaic (T90) + some of the Citra lupomax
DH: Amarillo cryo + Citra lupomax + Mosaic hopburst
 

Benson Brewhouse

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It's not often I'm doing NEIPAS so I would appreciate some help how to hop this one I'm planning to make. I'm doing this one to share with some friends of mine and I know they like them with very restrained bitterness. I'm thinking of using the same grain bill as last time I did a NEIPA since I was pretty satisfied with that, a blend of Golden Promise, Spelt and malted oats.

This is the hops I have at hand:

Mosaic
Hop burst Magnifico, which I understand is liquid extract of Mosaic
Citra lupomax
Amarillo cryo
Amarillo T90
Nectaron
Centennial
Chinook

Anyone have any suggestions on how to use them, and/or if I need to complement with something else?
If you want restrained bitterness, skip all hot side hop additions and only do whirlpool additions.

Whirlpool:
1oz Citra Lupo @170° for 30 min
2oz Nectaron @170° for 30 min
2oz Mosaic @170° for 30 min

Dryhop:
- No idea of your fermenter capabilities, so I'll keep it simple:
- Dry hop after primary is complete; crash to 58°; add dry hops; immediately crash to 36°; 48 hours max contact time; keg
3oz Citra Lupo - 48 hours contact time
4oz Nectaron - 48 hours contact time
4oz Mosaic - 48 hours contact time

*If these dry hopping amounts are too aggressive for you, knock 1oz off of each.
 

schmurf

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If you want restrained bitterness, skip all hot side hop additions and only do whirlpool additions.

Whirlpool:
1oz Citra Lupo @170° for 30 min
2oz Nectaron @170° for 30 min
2oz Mosaic @170° for 30 min

Dryhop:
- No idea of your fermenter capabilities, so I'll keep it simple:
- Dry hop after primary is complete; crash to 58°; add dry hops; immediately crash to 36°; 48 hours max contact time; keg
3oz Citra Lupo - 48 hours contact time
4oz Nectaron - 48 hours contact time
4oz Mosaic - 48 hours contact time

*If these dry hopping amounts are too aggressive for you, knock 1oz off of each.
Thanks! Interesting, I've never dry hopped at those temperatures before. What are the reasons for doing that?
 

Benson Brewhouse

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Thanks! Interesting, I've never dry hopped at those temperatures before. What are the reasons for doing that?
Myrcene (usually described as green/resinous) is extracted much more effectively at higher dry hop temps, which can overtake the fruitier notes we're trying to achieve in a hazy beer.

Something to keep in mind - dry hopping at cooler temps inherently causes the hops to drop quicker than they would at 68-70° - so rousing the hops back into suspension is recommended.

The other benefit of dry hopping on the cooler side and for shorter contact time is preventing/eliminating hop creep.
 

schmurf

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Myrcene (usually described as green/resinous) is extracted much more effectively at higher dry hop temps, which can overtake the fruitier notes we're trying to achieve in a hazy beer.

Something to keep in mind - dry hopping at cooler temps inherently causes the hops to drop quicker than they would at 68-70° - so rousing the hops back into suspension is recommended.

The other benefit of dry hopping on the cooler side and for shorter contact time is preventing/eliminating hop creep.
I might very well give that a try!
 

Dgallo

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Myrcene (usually described as green/resinous) is extracted much more effectively at higher dry hop temps
Do you have any literature that? I havent seen that before and seems like an awesome study if they found specific dryhop temps from compounds.

The main benefit of colder dryhop temps is limiting or stop the activity of the yeast so you don’t have hop creep That ultimately leads to hop burn
 
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