New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Taket_al_Tauro

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I must admit that I was initially pretty skeptical about the benefits of spelt over, say, oats or common wheat, but since more and more posts keep popping up on this subject, you have me definitely intrigued.

I am a wheat breeder by trade so here my 2 cents on the spelt/wheat discussion:
It is true that the two crops are very, very closely related. You can actually intercross them without problems and the progeny will be perfectly fertile. So yes, they are basically the same species.
Analyses of their DNA profiles revealed a rich history of interbreeding, and it is definitely not possible to draw a clear separation line.

That said, at least on an average level there are some notable differences between the two.
For instance, even though spelt has a generally higher protein content, the protein composition is different than that of wheat, and it is difficult to get a satisfactory bread making quality out of pure spelt flour. There are differences related to other grain components as well, that I am much less familiar with...
So it is not unreasonable to believe that it may also impart different qualities to beer, as compared to wheat.
As said I was skeptical at first, because often times one has trouble detecting differences between grains that are much farther apart, e.g. barley/oats, wheat/oats and so on. But after reading these last posts I have now included spelt in my next NEIPA grain bill too.

@Dgallo , @Noob_Brewer and others spelt users, do you use malted or raw spelt? (Did not see it explicitly mentioned if I am not mistaken).
Thanks!
 
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Noob_Brewer

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I must admit that I was initially pretty skeptical about the benefits of spelt over, say, oats or common wheat, but since more and more posts keep popping up on this subject, you have me definitely intrigued.

I am a wheat breeder by trade so here my 2 cents on the spelt/wheat discussion:
It is true that the two crops are very, very closely related. You can actually intercross them without problems and the progeny will be perfectly fertile. So yes, they are basically the same species.
Analyses of their DNA profiles revealed a rich history of interbreeding, and it is definitely not possible to draw a clear separation line.

That said, at least on an average level there are some notable differences between the two.
For instance, even though spelt has a generally higher protein content, the protein composition is different than that of wheat, and it is difficult to get a satisfactory bread making quality out of pure spelt flour. There are differences related to other grain components as well, that I am much less familiar with...
So it is not unreasonable to believe that it may also impart different qualities to beer, as compared to wheat.
As said I was skeptical at first, because often times one has trouble detecting differences between grains that are much farther apart, e.g. barley/oats, wheat/oats and so on. But after reading these last posts I have now included spelt in my next NEIPA grain bill too.

@Dgallo , @Noob_Brewer and others spelt users, do you use malted or raw spelt? (Did not see it explicitly mentioned if I am not mistaken).
Thanks!
interesting post!

I use BestMaltz spelt malt
 

Dgallo

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I must admit that I was initially pretty skeptical about the benefits of spelt over, say, oats or common wheat, but since more and more posts keep popping up on this subject, you have me definitely intrigued.

I am a wheat breeder by trade so here my 2 cents on the spelt/wheat discussion:
It is true that the two crops are very, very closely related. You can actually intercross them without problems and the progeny will be perfectly fertile. So yes, they are basically the same species.
Analyses of their DNA profiles revealed a rich history of interbreeding, and it is definitely not possible to draw a clear separation line.

That said, at least on an average level there are some notable differences between the two.
For instance, even though spelt has a generally higher protein content, the protein composition is different than that of wheat, and it is difficult to get a satisfactory bread making quality out of pure spelt flour. There are differences related to other grain components as well, that I am much less familiar with...
So it is not unreasonable to believe that it may also impart different qualities to beer, as compared to wheat.
As said I was skeptical at first, because often times one has trouble detecting differences between grains that are much farther apart, e.g. barley/oats, wheat/oats and so on. But after reading these last posts I have now included spelt in my next NEIPA grain bill too.

@Dgallo , @Noob_Brewer and others spelt users, do you use malted or raw spelt? (Did not see it explicitly mentioned if I am not mistaken).
Thanks!
Thanks for the info. I use Bestmaltz Malted Spelt
 

nebulabrewing

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I sold off my ten gallon g1 kettles over summer and upgraded to twenty gallon kettles so I could brew ten gallon batches. My first brew was trying to scale up my usual recipe and I think I nailed it. It's been in the keg for about ten days, so I'm going to give it until the week and pull another sample. But, I pulled a few over the weekend and it's delicious. This was also my first time doing a complete brew using Brewfather and it's great. Now I don't have to bounce back and forth between Bru'n water and other software.

Batch volume: 12.25gal
ABV: 6.7%
OG: 1.063
FG: 1.012
Mash: 153
IBUs: 52

Hops:
  • 67.9% Golden Promise
  • 17.9% White Wheat
  • 14.3% Oats
Yeasts:
  • Lutra
  • Verdant
Hops:
  • Whirpool at 180°F: 6oz Citra, 6oz Mosaic, 2.38oz Bru-1, 1oz Simcoe

Dryhop:
  • Verdant (55°F): 4oz Euakanot, 1.75oz Citra, 1oz Sabro
  • Lutra: 3oz Huell Melon, 2oz Rakau, 1 3/8 oz Galaxy

Water:
Ca: 104 Mg: 15 Na: 8 Cl: 162 So: 94


Aroma smells of apricot, berries, and stone fruit.
Tastes like melon, papaya, pineapple, and tangerine.

Verdant is the sample in the pic. As someone who uses 1318, Verdant is a nice sub, but I think I still prefer 1318 if I had the choose between the two. My local shop carries Verdant, but not 1318, so it's just convenient to grab.
865EA2D9-B5EF-4300-B90A-0D1B1B5D3985_1_105_c.jpeg
 

Shenanigans

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I sold off my ten gallon g1 kettles over summer and upgraded to twenty gallon kettles so I could brew ten gallon batches. My first brew was trying to scale up my usual recipe and I think I nailed it. It's been in the keg for about ten days, so I'm going to give it until the week and pull another sample. But, I pulled a few over the weekend and it's delicious. This was also my first time doing a complete brew using Brewfather and it's great. Now I don't have to bounce back and forth between Bru'n water and other software.

Batch volume: 12.25gal
ABV: 6.7%
OG: 1.063
FG: 1.012
Mash: 153
IBUs: 52

Hops:
  • 67.9% Golden Promise
  • 17.9% White Wheat
  • 14.3% Oats
Yeasts:
  • Lutra
  • Verdant
Hops:
  • Whirpool at 180°F: 6oz Citra, 6oz Mosaic, 2.38oz Bru-1, 1oz Simcoe

Dryhop:
  • Verdant (55°F): 4oz Euakanot, 1.75oz Citra, 1oz Sabro
  • Lutra: 3oz Huell Melon, 2oz Rakau, 1 3/8 oz Galaxy

Water:
Ca: 104 Mg: 15 Na: 8 Cl: 162 So: 94


Aroma smells of apricot, berries, and stone fruit.
Tastes like melon, papaya, pineapple, and tangerine.

Verdant is the sample in the pic. As someone who uses 1318, Verdant is a nice sub, but I think I still prefer 1318 if I had the choose between the two. My local shop carries Verdant, but not 1318, so it's just convenient to grab.View attachment 750730
Looks good.
Are you using flaked or malted oats?

I'm looking into splitting a batch too but will use Voss instead of Lutra.
I have a 15 and a 10 gallon pot with two 3500 w induction cooking plates.
So I can potentially brew three 5 gallon batches if I split the wort from the 10 gallon pot in two.
I also have 3 kegs but the problem is I only have space in my kegerator for two kegs.

My plan is to force carbonate two kegs and do natural carbonation in the keg with the third batch at about 60 F in the basement.
The idea is that at high pressure I can have the ones in the kegerator ready to drink in a few days (I'm not into rolling) and let the other keg carb naturally over 2 or 3 weeks. That would give me time to drink one of the other kegs before putting the naturally carbed one on tap.

Anyone here with experience of naturally carbing NEIPA's - any advice?
I have a spund for measuring the pressure but I won't be transferring to a new keg; I'll just accept that the first few pulls will be full of trub.

Thanks :mug:
 

kingmatt

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Did anyone grab any 2021 Strata from YVH? Just brewed my first batch with this Wednesday and it smelled amazing. Out of the bag it was big citrus/cannabis with some pure hoppyness character. The blow off smells ridiculous right now. I went with;

Grains:
62.5 % - 2row
25 % - Spelt malt
12.5 % - Malted Oats

Yeast:
Imperial a24 - Dryhop

Hops:
- 0.5 oz magnum @ 60
- 1.0 oz Galaxy @ 10
- 1.0 oz Strata @ 10

Whirlpool @ 160 for 30 mins
3:1 ratio
Strata/Galaxy

Dryhop
3:2:1 ratio
Cashmere LUPOMAX/Galaxy/Strata

Og - 1.076
Good to hear about the Strata. I'm ordering another pound of the 2021 Nelson because it was fantastic so I will add Strata to the mix. I'll probably grab another lb of HBC586 because I am starting to fall in love with that hop.
 

beervoid

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Good to hear about the Strata. I'm ordering another pound of the 2021 Nelson because it was fantastic so I will add Strata to the mix. I'll probably grab another lb of HBC586 because I am starting to fall in love with that hop.
What is it stands out flavor wise for the hbc586?
 

The M

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I must admit that I was initially pretty skeptical about the benefits of spelt over, say, oats or common wheat, but since more and more posts keep popping up on this subject, you have me definitely intrigued.

I am a wheat breeder by trade so here my 2 cents on the spelt/wheat discussion:
It is true that the two crops are very, very closely related. You can actually intercross them without problems and the progeny will be perfectly fertile. So yes, they are basically the same species.
Analyses of their DNA profiles revealed a rich history of interbreeding, and it is definitely not possible to draw a clear separation line.

That said, at least on an average level there are some notable differences between the two.
For instance, even though spelt has a generally higher protein content, the protein composition is different than that of wheat, and it is difficult to get a satisfactory bread making quality out of pure spelt flour. There are differences related to other grain components as well, that I am much less familiar with...
So it is not unreasonable to believe that it may also impart different qualities to beer, as compared to wheat.
As said I was skeptical at first, because often times one has trouble detecting differences between grains that are much farther apart, e.g. barley/oats, wheat/oats and so on. But after reading these last posts I have now included spelt in my next NEIPA grain bill too.

@Dgallo , @Noob_Brewer and others spelt users, do you use malted or raw spelt? (Did not see it explicitly mentioned if I am not mistaken).
Thanks!
Very interesting post, thank you. I have used Weyermann malted spelt
 

kingmatt

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What is it stands out flavor wise for the hbc586?
Hard to describe. I get a lot of overripe mango and melon but there is also a slight sulfur and earthy component that makes it really unique.
 

anteater8

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Here's the plan for tomorrow's NEIPA brew day. I used this grain bill once before and really loved it, this time will be a bit stronger. New hop combo for me, I've used El Dorado and Vic Secret before once each but never together.

12 lb 2 row
3 lb Malted oats
3 lb Flaked oats
0.5 Wheat
1 lb Lactose

1 oz CTZ 15 min (19 IBU)
2 oz Citra whirlpool
2 oz El Dorado whirlpool
2 oz Vic Secret whirlpool
2 oz Citra Lupomax dry hop #1
2 oz El Dorado dry hop #1
4 oz Vic Secret dry hop #2
1 vanilla bean dry hop #2

Imperial Juice

Target O.G. = 1.076
 

wepeeler

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I've really been digging Mecca Shaniko in place of regular white wheat, and malted oats in place of flaked oats lately. Permahaze, great mouthfeel, and I feel like it slows oxidation. I've used up to 20% flaked wheat and 20% flaked oats in past grists, but I feel like they lacked malt complexity along side just standard 2 Row. Plus they dropped clearer faster.

Also, White Labs London Fog doesn't get enough love for Neipas. It's absolutely fantastic for bringing fruit forward esters, and it CHUGS. 4L starter, and it was bubbling 4 hours post pitch. Going bananas 15 hours post pitch!

64.3% 2 Row
14.3% Oat Malt
14.3% Shaniko
7.1% Carafoam
London Fog
Mashed 152 60 min
Citra Mosaic Idaho Gem 1:1:1 10 min and WP 170 for 20 minutes. Planning on 1 large 1:1:1 DH 48 hours before kegging.

Already have the next Neipa lined up, and I'm going to try Mecca's Lamonta, Shaniko and carafoam. Never used their 2 Row, only their Pilsner malt, and it was quite good.
 

secretlevel

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I've really been digging Mecca Shaniko in place of regular white wheat, and malted oats in place of flaked oats lately. Permahaze, great mouthfeel, and I feel like it slows oxidation. I've used up to 20% flaked wheat and 20% flaked oats in past grists, but I feel like they lacked malt complexity along side just standard 2 Row. Plus they dropped clearer faster.

Also, White Labs London Fog doesn't get enough love for Neipas. It's absolutely fantastic for bringing fruit forward esters, and it CHUGS. 4L starter, and it was bubbling 4 hours post pitch. Going bananas 15 hours post pitch!

64.3% 2 Row
14.3% Oat Malt
14.3% Shaniko
7.1% Carafoam
London Fog
Mashed 152 60 min
Citra Mosaic Idaho Gem 1:1:1 10 min and WP 170 for 20 minutes. Planning on 1 large 1:1:1 DH 48 hours before kegging.

Already have the next Neipa lined up, and I'm going to try Mecca's Lamonta, Shaniko and carafoam. Never used their 2 Row, only their Pilsner malt, and it was quite good.
I'll have to give it a shot! I think White Wheat is generally very good for foam retention, so can't see any negatives here outside of the price.

So I thought London Fog is the same as 1318, which generally starts off well, but doesn't always attenuate very well in 1.070+ gravity worts. 4L starter for 5 gallons is pretty intense, I think most yeasts would kick off pretty fast in that scenario lol. I pitch 2L starters for lagers...
 

aaronm13

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I'll have to give it a shot! I think White Wheat is generally very good for foam retention, so can't see any negatives here outside of the price.

So I thought London Fog is the same as 1318, which generally starts off well, but doesn't always attenuate very well in 1.070+ gravity worts. 4L starter for 5 gallons is pretty intense, I think most yeasts would kick off pretty fast in that scenario lol. I pitch 2L starters for lagers...
I use London Fog a lot and can't get it past 1.020 no matter what I do. On my last brew which was a failed TIPA attempt, started at 1.082 and only got to 1.020 again. That's even with a low mash temperature of 147F and possibly a yeast over pitch as I built the starter for 1.094 OG. Nice strain but going to try Omega DIPA strain again as I remember this is better at getting higher gravities that bit lower.
 

Noob_Brewer

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I use London Fog a lot and can't get it past 1.020 no matter what I do. On my last brew which was a failed TIPA attempt, started at 1.082 and only got to 1.020 again. That's even with a low mash temperature of 147F and possibly a yeast over pitch as I built the starter for 1.094 OG. Nice strain but going to try Omega DIPA strain again as I remember this is better at getting higher gravities that bit lower.
I haven't used London Fog or Omegas DIPA strain. For me, both Juice and Cosmic Punch land at 1.015 for OG of 1.074-76. But A24 Dry Hop is a beast and always finishes around 1.012-1.014 given similar starting OGs.
 

wepeeler

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I'll have to give it a shot! I think White Wheat is generally very good for foam retention, so can't see any negatives here outside of the price.

So I thought London Fog is the same as 1318, which generally starts off well, but doesn't always attenuate very well in 1.070+ gravity worts. 4L starter for 5 gallons is pretty intense, I think most yeasts would kick off pretty fast in that scenario lol. I pitch 2L starters for lagers...
I overbuilt so I could harvest some. I usually overshoot anyway, because I'm sure I'm dumping some good yeast down the drain when I decant the top. For 6 gallons going into the fermentor for an OG of 1.070, the online calculator calls for 4L, while harvesting 0.6L for future use. I cold crash, then decant almost all the liquid. Just enough to swirl the flask and pick up the yeast off the bottom. (If you're doing 2L starters for lagers, I believe that's wildly underpitching...)

I much prefer LF to 1318. They don't act the same in my experience. LF is much more aggressive. I almost had a blowout in the starter after 24 hours. LF never does that for me. It also smells differently in the flask and while fermenting. I used 1318 for about 3 years, and I much prefer both White Labs London Fog and Coastal Haze. Had good luck with Imperial Juice and Dry Hop as well.
 

ThatVideoKid

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I use London Fog a lot and can't get it past 1.020 no matter what I do. On my last brew which was a failed TIPA attempt, started at 1.082 and only got to 1.020 again. That's even with a low mash temperature of 147F and possibly a yeast over pitch as I built the starter for 1.094 OG. Nice strain but going to try Omega DIPA strain again as I remember this is better at getting higher gravities that bit lower.
For big IPAs I prefer to use Conan over the 1318 family of yeasts due to the much better attenuation.
 

Dgallo

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I use London Fog a lot and can't get it past 1.020 no matter what I do. On my last brew which was a failed TIPA attempt, started at 1.082 and only got to 1.020 again. That's even with a low mash temperature of 147F and possibly a yeast over pitch as I built the starter for 1.094 OG. Nice strain but going to try Omega DIPA strain again as I remember this is better at getting higher gravities that bit lower.
Like @Noob_Brewer suggested, you can always try a24 - dryhop. It’s my preferred yeast for ipas. I routinely get 80% attenuation
 

Jimmy_Hops

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C07D2944-B2DA-4743-91D1-33E013C7027E.jpegD01988A8-FBC3-423C-B4DA-D6F6AC4AEAC4.jpegDFDAA066-5BC2-4443-BB1B-E256AE10A4E4.jpeg
I was a bit nervous to try this one as the last two beers I had with Phantasm (from the Veil) were awful, but man was this a GREAT IPA. The saturation of diesely Nelson and fruit is unreal!
 

Dgallo

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Noob_Brewer

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Like @Noob_Brewer suggested, you can always try a24 - dryhop. It’s my preferred yeast for ipas. I routinely get 80% attenuation
Ive always overbuilt all my starters rather than harvest afterwards. With A24, Ive gone 3 generations with no adverse effects from what I can tell with the yeast blend. I prob could go more generations but I just get a new pack. Don't wanna push my luck lol.
 

The M

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I haven't used London Fog or Omegas DIPA strain. For me, both Juice and Cosmic Punch land at 1.015 for OG of 1.074-76. But A24 Dry Hop is a beast and always finishes around 1.012-1.014 given similar starting OGs.
Question about Cosmic Punch. I've brewed with it two times. My last brew started from 1.064 and made a 1.5L starter from 2.gen Cosmic. FG was 1.015 which was way too sweet for that particular beer. What kind of attenuation you generally get from Cosmic Punch and how big are your starters? Still experimenting with Cosmic atm so any info will help. I usually brew 6gal batches
 

Bohern

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I need some help guys. I want to do a 10 gal batch of a double hazy but think I will fall sort of my starting gravity. doing a 5 gal batch of this beer I had a grain bill of 16lbs and 7.36 gal of water in my 15 gal mash tun. My brewhouse eff with such a large grain bill was 65%. How would you all go about doing a 10 gal batch of this beer?

I have DME and my 1st thought is to take a gravity reading and adjust with some like DME, maybe rice or an extra light pils.

**note 1 lb of corn sugar was added at 10 min on the 5G recipe
 

Noob_Brewer

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Question about Cosmic Punch. I've brewed with it two times. My last brew started from 1.064 and made a 1.5L starter from 2.gen Cosmic. FG was 1.015 which was way too sweet for that particular beer. What kind of attenuation you generally get from Cosmic Punch and how big are your starters? Still experimenting with Cosmic atm so any info will help. I usually brew 6gal batches
I overbuilt my starters so Im typically starting with 2.5-3.0L to start with and harvest. After harvest, I chill for a while then decant some until I'm at about 1.5L. I do typically have a higher pitch rate. Instead of the norm 0.75 factor, I'm typically closer to 0.90-1.0 (based on brewers friend estimates). So Im bringing a good bit of healthy yeast to these 1.074-1.076 OGs. I also treat Cosmic Punch just like I have with Juice where Im oxygenating thoroughly prior to pitching as well as I'm also typically bringing 0.5lb of dextrose to the table as well. In my three cosmic punch NEIPAs landing at about 1.015 on average, my attenuation has been 78-80%.

EDIT: have you landed at 1.015 with other yeasts and came to the same "too sweet" conclusion? Reason why I ask is that my perception of cosmic punch is that its intensely fruity and that fruitiness to me can be sweet. So not sure the FG has that much to do with that sensation IMO. I have used A24 a lot and they always landing between 1.012-1.014 and never seem sweet at all. Thats barely lower than the 1.015 barrier. I did have one beer with S33/S05 finish at 1.020-1.022 (can't remember exact) but that one was DEFINITELY sweet from residual sugars. So much can contribute to perceptions of sweetness and IMHO I think Cosmic Punch is so intensely fruity that it can also be sweet.
 
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beervoid

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I use London Fog a lot and can't get it past 1.020 no matter what I do. On my last brew which was a failed TIPA attempt, started at 1.082 and only got to 1.020 again. That's even with a low mash temperature of 147F and possibly a yeast over pitch as I built the starter for 1.094 OG. Nice strain but going to try Omega DIPA strain again as I remember this is better at getting higher gravities that bit lower.
Have you tried lowering adjuncts?
 

R.A.I.D

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Grain: Pale 7 kg, Spelt malt 1 kg, Wheat malt 0.5 kg, DME 0.5 kg.
Hot side: Citra, Idaho-7, Mosaic, CTZ, Cascade. 50, 50, 25, 25, 25g
PFDH: Strata, Nectaron. 150 g, 150 g.
OG: 1072
FG: 1012
Yeast: Verdant + Lallemand NE

Aroma:
Grapefruit
Orange
Pine

Taste:
Dank
Pine
Grapefruit

Mouthfeel:
Fluffy, pillowery light.

Strata clearly dominates over Nectaron in this beer. I would prefer if Nectaron was more pronounced. For more tropical notes.
 

aaronm13

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Like @Noob_Brewer suggested, you can always try a24 - dryhop. It’s my preferred yeast for ipas. I routinely get 80% attenuation
Used A24 once and did like the results but Imperial yeast is hard for me to buy and I'm cheap. I always over build starters for use in the next beer. Will always use one pack for 5-6 brews. With A24 being a blend I thought overbuilding/harvesting yeast wasn't an option as the dominant strain, Conan in this case will take over from LA3 and you'll pretty much just end up with Conan. Have I picked this up wrong?
 

Dgallo

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Used A24 once and did like the results but Imperial yeast is hard for me to buy and I'm cheap. I always over build starters for use in the next beer. Will always use one pack for 5-6 brews. With A24 being a blend I thought overbuilding/harvesting yeast wasn't an option as the dominant strain, Conan in this case will take over from LA3 and you'll pretty much just end up with Conan. Have I picked this up wrong?
Im glad you enjoyed it when you tried it. Sorry I often assume that we all have similar access to ingredients.

So A24 is a blend of Conan and citrus. Citrus has no genetic connection to LAIII. Its actually a Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain that was once thought to be a brettanomyces strain.

So by over building a starter, you have to shake it and mix it as harmoniously before you split it. This will give you the best results of keeping the ratio
 

aaronm13

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Im glad you enjoyed it when you tried it. Sorry I often assume that we all have similar access to ingredients.

So A24 is a blend of Conan and citrus. Citrus has no genetic connection to LAIII. Its actually a Saccharomyces cerevisiae strain that was once thought to be a brettanomyces strain.

So by over building a starter, you have to shake it and mix it as harmoniously before you split it. This will give you the best results of keeping the ratio
Ah sorry, I always thought it was a Conan/LA3 blend. That's interesting about harvesting a blend. So I run my starters on a stir plate and fill a small Mason jar as soon as it finishes for use in the next batch and put the flask into the fridge to crash out. Would this be enough to keep the blend in the same ratios? I'll try and pick some up when stock comes back in.
 

Dgallo

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Ah sorry, I always thought it was a Conan/LA3 blend. That's interesting about harvesting a blend. So I run my starters on a stir plate and fill a small Mason jar as soon as it finishes for use in the next batch and put the flask into the fridge to crash out. Would this be enough to keep the blend in the same ratios? I'll try and pick some up when stock comes back in.
I would think a stir plate would keep it harmonious. That said, you can’t decant any of the starters before the pitch if you want it as close to the original ratio as possible
 

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I would think a stir plate would keep it harmonious. That said, you can’t decant any of the starters before the pitch if you want it as close to the original ratio as possible
Ah ok. So what would be the best way of going about this from a fresh pouch so you would have enough to brew with and for the next brew?
 

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Ah ok. So what would be the best way of going about this from a fresh pouch so you would have enough to brew with and for the next brew?
Theoretically you could keep rebuilding if it was harmonious and you didn’t decant. But again some yeast are bound to reproduce faster and swing the blend over time
 
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aaronm13

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Theoretically you could keep rebuilding if it was harmonious and you didn’t decant. But again done yeast are bound to reproduce faster and swing the blend over time
Yeah, sounds kinda impossible to do to exactly keep the original ratio. I'd imagine with each generation Conan would get stronger and stronger in the mix.
 

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Yeah, sounds kinda impossible to do to exactly keep the original ratio. I'd imagine with each generation Conan would get stronger and stronger in the mix.
If you are overbuilding, Id say that going three overbuilt harvests allowing you to get 4 brews from a single pouch is a success IMO. The last brew you just don't overbuild to harvest. I haven't seen/detected to my palate anyways any difference at all and the fermentations are all the same behavior. I agree with @Dgallo in that when I harvest, after I get my mason jars sanitized and ready for harvesting, Im making sure to swirl the flask (which just left the stir plate) really well to make the starter as homogenous as possible. Not a perfect science but works well IMHO. Not sure how many generations you can do this with as Ive never tried to go past 3 harvests from overbuilt starters with A24.
 
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