New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Hannabrew

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Which yeast are you using in these beers? If you're not using WY1318 and a long-lasting haze is what you're after, give that one a try. I don't necessarily think that it is yeast in suspension that is the source of the haze, but yeast choice certainly plays a role in how long it sticks around. I've never had a WY1318 fermented NEIPA clear, and I've even had one stick around in the keg for a little over 2 months. WLP095 seems to clear significantly at around 5-6 weeks in the keg, and TYB vermont ale yeast was somewhere in between those two. I have my first one using WLP066 going now that I'm expecting will be similar to WY1318 in terms of haze stability.
I'm exclusively 1318 with this style and they clear for me
 

bigbud78

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I started off using 007 but I never cared for it, I have been using TYB vermont for a while and its good, had a batch throw off some funky flavours which I actually liked so kept it separate and use it in pales.

I'm not personally bothered by what the beer looks like, I just find it loses a lot of its flavour when it starts clearing up.
 

MrBlackrock

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Im using a Fast Ferment. I would like to know when would you remove the first thrub while fermenting ?? I feel like leaving the hops in there for more than a week will impact taste and color ? I usually dry hop at 24-36 hours while high krausen and remove the bottom after about a week

Should i leave it longer?
 

tld6008

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Im using a Fast Ferment. I would like to know when would you remove the first thrub while fermenting ?? I feel like leaving the hops in there for more than a week will impact taste and color ? I usually dry hop at 24-36 hours while high krausen and remove the bottom after about a week

Should i leave it longer?
I never remove the hops, longest I leave them is 10-12 days though. No negative affect that I can determine.
 

cheesebach

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Check post #6676
Seems like the biggest difference in our processes that might affect haze stability is the use of whirlfloc. The only time I’ve used it in a NEIPA (first attempt at the style), I noticed that the wort was pretty clear going into the fermenter. Every time since then, I’ve left it out and the wort going into the fermenter is hazy. That first beer with whirlfloc did have a decent dry hop haze after fermentation, but was by far the clearest beer in the style that I’ve made. It also used WLP095 in that batch (which I’ve found clears sooner than WY1318), but it was much less hazy than the times I’ve used WLP095 since then.
 

cheesebach

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Get ready to be underwhelmed by WLP066. Got that recently as a substitute for 1318 because my local place didn’t have any in stock. It’s not the same by a long shot. Less fruity yeast character and much more attenuation.
I just transferred the beer using WLP066 to the serving keg last night, so haven't tasted it yet, but the hydrometer sample i pulled smelled great and the attenuation was actually less that I usually get from WY1318 or A38. OG was 1.066 with a FG of 1.017 for an AA of 73%. Will find out how it did in the flavor department sometime this weekend.
 

degivens

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I just transferred the beer using WLP066 to the serving keg last night, so haven't tasted it yet, but the hydrometer sample i pulled smelled great and the attenuation was actually less that I usually get from WY1318 or A38. OG was 1.066 with a FG of 1.017 for an AA of 73%. Will find out how it did in the flavor department sometime this weekend.
Wow really? Did you force cold crash it to stop it? What day way this measurement? Did you use a starter?

I went from 1.064 to 1.009 in ~5 days. Several folks have had similar results of AA in the mid 80s.

Sorry for so many questions. Just wanna make sure I have a good handle on things. Hope it turns out good for you!
 

Hannabrew

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Seems like the biggest difference in our processes that might affect haze stability is the use of whirlfloc. The only time I’ve used it in a NEIPA (first attempt at the style), I noticed that the wort was pretty clear going into the fermenter. Every time since then, I’ve left it out and the wort going into the fermenter is hazy. That first beer with whirlfloc did have a decent dry hop haze after fermentation, but was by far the clearest beer in the style that I’ve made. It also used WLP095 in that batch (which I’ve found clears sooner than WY1318), but it was much less hazy than the times I’ve used WLP095 since then.
I wouldn't want more break material in my beer just for the sake of Haze. Clear beer into fermenter is my policy regardless of style
 

cheesebach

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Wow really? Did you force cold crash it to stop it? What day way this measurement? Did you use a starter?

I went from 1.064 to 1.009 in ~5 days. Several folks have had similar results of AA in the mid 80s.

Sorry for so many questions. Just wanna make sure I have a good handle on things. Hope it turns out good for you!
I made a 1.5L starter from one pack of which I split off 1/3rd to save for a future batch. I cooled for a few days and decanted prior to pitching. This went into 4.5 gallons of 1.066 OG wort at 64F, oxygenated with O2 for 45-60. Held it to 65F for the first 36 hours and then slowly ramped to 68 over 2 more days.

I noticed that thread with several reports of over attenuation was from December/January mostly when it first came out - I wonder if maybe they had some production issues with the early batches. Fingers crossed it made a good one for me...
 
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Braufessor

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Which yeast are you using in these beers? If you're not using WY1318 and a long-lasting haze is what you're after, give that one a try. I don't necessarily think that it is yeast in suspension that is the source of the haze, but yeast choice certainly plays a role in how long it sticks around. I've never had a WY1318 fermented NEIPA clear, and I've even had one stick around in the keg for a little over 2 months. WLP095 seems to clear significantly at around 5-6 weeks in the keg, and TYB vermont ale yeast was somewhere in between those two. I have my first one using WLP066 going now that I'm expecting will be similar to WY1318 in terms of haze stability.
A yeast I have used a few times now in my lower ABV session NEIPA Wheat beer is 2565 Kolsch yeast.... that thing stays in suspension forever. I really like it in that beer. Not sure how it would do in higher gravity (1.065+) type IPA's...... but in the lower gravity 1.040-1.055 types, it is really a nice yeast for beers like this.
 

jpb2716

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Get ready to be underwhelmed by WLP066. Got that recently as a substitute for 1318 because my local place didn’t have any in stock. It’s not the same by a long shot. Less fruity yeast character and much more attenuation.
I completely agree. I have used WLP066 three or four times now and I find it to leave a very boring yeast character as compared to other popular options. At first I thought it was my process but no matter what I've done, it always left the final beer too thin for a NEIPA, in my opinion.
 

stickyfinger

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White Labs claims that "This yeast will leave a beer very clear". Does this style beer clear with 002?
002 is a great yeast. diacetyl can be an issue. definitely clears more. i like it cuz it leaves a lot of body and great flavors, classic
 

TimmyWit

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Sunshine Chugsuckle by Mothers is one of the better commercial examples available here in the St Louis area. Wasn't going for a clone but happened to have them both poured and realized that my latest batch is identical in appearance. HB is on the left. The pic doesn't do it justice. Both brews have that nice yellow glow in proper lighting.

2-row - 41.7%
Pilsner - 33.3%
Vienna - 12.5%
Oats - 8.3%
Carafoam - 4.2%

The hops on this one were Mosaic, Simcoe and Galaxy with Apollo for FW. Split batch between OYL-057 and Escarpment Labs Hornindal. The DH was 2oz each of Simcoe & Mosaic cryo (on each 4.5G batch). 6.5% and delicious!

The aroma on this one is killer. It's one of the first LODO batches I have done. It was fermented, DH'd and now served all in the same keg. Very happy with the results

IMG_6697.jpg
 

beervoid

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Doing a little experiment over the next week or two.
It's pretty tame but I've always been interested to see the effect certain hops may have at f/o. Specifically unique hops with less than typical descriptors.
I've got v1 in now.
V1-
FWH: 30g Columbus.
F/o: 80g Columbus.
Dryhopped with the standard mosaic citra galaxy combo (single big dryhop only at this point).

V2-
FWH: 30g Columbus
F/o: 40g Columbus
F/o: 40g Sorachi Ace.
Same dryhop as V1

I'll post up some form of results when I get it done (both are being entered into a local competition to get proper evaluation).
Its been a while and I've went through the whole thread. Did you find any time to write a report on this yet?
Curious to the results.

Cheers!
 

beervoid

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Doing a little experiment over the next week or two.
It's pretty tame but I've always been interested to see the effect certain hops may have at f/o. Specifically unique hops with less than typical descriptors.
I've got v1 in now.
V1-
FWH: 30g Columbus.
F/o: 80g Columbus.
Dryhopped with the standard mosaic citra galaxy combo (single big dryhop only at this point).

V2-
FWH: 30g Columbus
F/o: 40g Columbus
F/o: 40g Sorachi Ace.
Same dryhop as V1

I'll post up some form of results when I get it done (both are being entered into a local competition to get proper evaluation).
Its been a while and I've went through the whole thread. Did you find any time to write a report on this yet?
Curious to the results.

Cheers!
 

specharka

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Looks great. Recipe?
Sure thing mate. I’m at altitude so you might have to make some adjustments to keep the IBU count down.

OG 1.058
FG 1.012
IBU ~64
SRM 5

77% Simpsons Golden Promise
10% Great Western white wheat
10% Thomas Fawcett malted oats
3% Briess Carapils

Mash @ 149F for 60 min, mash out @ 168F for 10 min

1:1:1 Citra : Mosaic : Simcoe
0.2 oz (7 IBU each) @ 60 min FWH
0.2 oz (3 IBU each) @ 40 min hop stand
0.45 oz (5 IBU each) @ 30 min hop stand
0.6 oz (6 IBU each) @ 20 min hop stand
0.75 oz each @ 4 day bio-hop
1 oz each @ 4 day dry hop

Fermented @ 66F w/ INIS008 (Boddingtons analogue)
 

Whalewang

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Anyone else getting a tingling on the tongue when drinking this recipe/style?
 

crusader1612

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Its been a while and I've went through the whole thread. Did you find any time to write a report on this yet?
Curious to the results.

Cheers!
I didn't write a report.
But I can remember.
Here's my findings.

1. Don't use S-04. I pitched and rehydrated and fermented. Some off flavours appeared which could only be attributed to yeast health (I've had a lot of these flavour in the past with this yeast). Specifically acetyldehyde, which marred the beers for me.

2. If using a dry yeast a danstar of mangrove jacks English yeast would be much better (I had good results with the mangrove jacks burton yeast.

3. There was a significant taste difference between the Columbus sorachi mix and plain sorachi. More lemon citrus flavours. Which was my pick of the 2 beers. The straight Columbus was hoppy enough but had a more piney flavour which mixes well with the fruity hops of galaxy cotta mosaic etc.

4. The Columbus idea has merit I believe especially with guys like trillium utilising the exact same things from what I've head.

5. If you can handle it use liquid yeast. And increase the dryhops from my recipe (need more).
 

sheikyerbouti

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I agree with Bigbuds findings.

I don't care what amount you dry hop with, but keg hops are what really makes a beer like this shine in my opinion. Also, I think you are looking at 2 days of the beer being 'outstanding' before it drops off. I've been doing 2 screens, 1 on my dip tube and another longer one outside of that. When I detect the aroma dropping, I add another 1+ oz hops to the keg.

I've transferred off of the dry hop keg into another, and it doesn't work for me. I've seen no ill effects leaving the beer on the hops for several weeks, other than the aroma drops quite a bit. Again, just my opinion YMMV.
 

Hannabrew

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I agree with Bigbuds findings.

I don't care what amount you dry hop with, but keg hops are what really makes a beer like this shine in my opinion. Also, I think you are looking at 2 days of the beer being 'outstanding' before it drops off. I've been doing 2 screens, 1 on my dip tube and another longer one outside of that. When I detect the aroma dropping, I add another 1+ oz hops to the keg.

I've transferred off of the dry hop keg into another, and it doesn't work for me. I've seen no ill effects leaving the beer on the hops for several weeks, other than the aroma drops quite a bit. Again, just my opinion YMMV.
If you're really anal about oxygen ingress on the cold side you can retain that flavor for weeks/months.
 

cheesebach

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If you're really anal about oxygen ingress on the cold side you can retain that flavor for weeks/months.
I agree that limiting O2 exposure is a large part of it, but I’m not sure that I’m convinced that gravity/time doesn’t also play a significant role in diminishing the intensity of the hop flavor as things gradually settle out. I think the effect is greater with higher dry hopping rates.
 

stickyfinger

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I'd love to crush one of these beers right now. He gets so pumped about it. Also might be trying some lupulin next time around.
I finally tried one of these latest Skadoosh. It is insane. so resinous, full, incredible! I love the mosaic-ctz combo. going to try it next i think!

on another note, i just did a split batch, half with simcoe-amarillo-azacca and half with citra-simcoe. both are great hop combos. the SAA is super super fruity - tastes like strawberry to me. the CS is just lightly dank and delicious.
 

Hannabrew

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I agree that limiting O2 exposure is a large part of it, but I’m not sure that I’m convinced that gravity/time doesn’t also play a significant role in diminishing the intensity of the hop flavor as things gradually settle out. I think the effect is greater with higher dry hopping rates.
If by intensity you're referring to the raw flavor you get when there are tons of hop debris in suspension then yes, it will settle over timr regardless of o2 exposure.

But the hop flavor and aroma in a beer that has settled out will last
 

cooper

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Wow really? Did you force cold crash it to stop it? What day way this measurement? Did you use a starter?

I went from 1.064 to 1.009 in ~5 days. Several folks have had similar results of AA in the mid 80s.

Sorry for so many questions. Just wanna make sure I have a good handle on things. Hope it turns out good for you!

WLP066 did the exact same thing for me. Went from 1.058 down to 1.008. Mashed at 156F. Used a starter and the FG sample was taken on day 13. Yeast was manufactured on 19 March so it was also an early batch: Lot#1053694.
 

lasultana

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Dry yeast:
Hast anybody tried yeast that cannot convert maltotriose?
I'm thinking about giving Danstar Windsor or Danstar London ESB a try.
 

cheesebach

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WLP066 did the exact same thing for me. Went from 1.058 down to 1.008. Mashed at 156F. Used a starter and the FG sample was taken on day 13. Yeast was manufactured on 19 March so it was also an early batch: Lot#1053694.
Here's my latest batch and first time using WLP066. I believe the manufactured date on my vial was also a late March date. I made a 1.5L starter, chilled and decanted and then pitched 2/3rd of it and saved the rest for a future batch. It's my first time using this hop combination, but mouthfeel and yeast character seem very similar to WY1318. Probably one of the best that I've made in that department, but hard to top the Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy combo.

Below are the details:

Grain Bill: Using Braufessor's from post #5803
Mashed @155
Post-boil volume: 5.35G
Volume Into Fermenter (corny keg): 4.25G

OG: 1.066
FG: 1.016

Hops:
0.85oz Warrior @60min
1oz each Citra/Vic Secret/Enigma @FO
1oz each Citra/Vic Secret/Enigma 20min hop stand @155
1oz each Citra/Vic Secret/Enigma dry hop at 60 hours post-pitch
1oz each Citra/Vic Secret/Enigma dry hop @ day 6, crashed on day 9 and left in keg

I'm not sure how to explain all the variation in attenuation people are seeing with this relatively new yeast product from White Labs, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it again after this batch. I think my next NEIPA I may split between WY1318 and WLP066 to compare the two to see if I can detect any differences or have a preference for either one. I've sometimes gotten a hop burn that doesn't fade after kegging with WY1318, which was one of my reasons for trying WLP066 this time. No hop burn in this one, but don't have enough data to make any claims that its any different from WY1318 in that respect yet.
 

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