New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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NickAus

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all my favourite hops in the one beer, looks amazing, adding this to my brew list, thanks Braufessor, really appreciate it. Nick.
 

fragged

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Could someone recommend a bittering hop based on what I have? Going with the CMG 1.5/1/.5 schedule for the rest of the hops from 1418.

I have:
CTZ
Centennial
Cascade
Citra
Willamette

I'd think the CTZ or centennial would be best and I have lots of each, but would like to know if anyone has some experience with this combo.

I'm also questioning how much choosing any of these really matters as the bittering (other than maybe the willamette, that's probably not going to fit well with this style).

Not opposed to picking up something else if it would make a big impact, but prefer to burn through what I have.

Thanks.
 

SailorJerry

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Here is what I think I'm going to try next, but I'm open to hop suggestions. I'll have amarillo, simcoe, citra, mosiac, el dorado, galaxy, and centennial available. I'm going to use the Omega Tropical IPA yeast, unless someone has a better suggestion. It just looks interesting, which is why I was going to use it. I used 1318 on my first and only NEIPA try, which was a similar grain recipe to this (2-row and Golden promise were 50/50 and no honey malt).

Can I throw Amarillo in there and remove the Citra and still have good results? I'm assuming so? Makes for a spendy 5 gallon recipe - will be kegged, figure I better mention that.

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upload_2017-11-24_12-57-48.png
 

SailorJerry

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Whoops, appears I'm a bit low on the hops. Probably move the whirlpool to 2oz of each, and dry hop up to 2oz of all, 1 oz of Citra

that'd be 11.5oz in 5 gallons, I think that should be sufficient...
 

grassfeeder

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Here is what I think I'm going to try next, but I'm open to hop suggestions. I'll have amarillo, simcoe, citra, mosiac, el dorado, galaxy, and centennial available. I'm going to use the Omega Tropical IPA yeast, unless someone has a better suggestion. It just looks interesting, which is why I was going to use it. I used 1318 on my first and only NEIPA try, which was a similar grain recipe to this (2-row and Golden promise were 50/50 and no honey malt).

Can I throw Amarillo in there and remove the Citra and still have good results? I'm assuming so? Makes for a spendy 5 gallon recipe - will be kegged, figure I better mention that.

View attachment 547018

View attachment 547017
Here is my 2 cents. Up your flaked additions to equal about 15% of the grain bill in total.

I wold also up the Citra to equal the Galaxy and replace the Simcoe with something else like a Mosaic, Centennial, Azacca, Amarillo.....something of that nature.
 

SailorJerry

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I thought simcoe as I had it in a NEIPA a few weeks back. I'll have to look it up and double check the dry hop.
Thanks for the input
 
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Braufessor

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I thought simcoe as I had it in a NEIPA a few weeks back. I'll have to look it up and double check the dry hop.
Thanks for the input
I have found simcoe to work really well. It is probably my #4 hop for this beer after Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy. Usually, when I use it, I am using it in place of the galaxy and blending it with Citra/Mosaic.
The others that Grassfeeder suggested would all be on my short list too.
 

Veidog

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Yes that's the one. I'm thinking this is what most breweries do to get their "signature" taste.. I think I'm going to try this. Thanks!
 

lasultana

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I used Galaxy/Denali/Apollo in my latest NEIPA with M36 yeast - looking forward to it. It's still in primary.
 

aaronm13

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Just want to thank Braufessor for an incredible recipe and everyone elrfor the advice. Brewed this last weekend but didn't have high hopes for it as brew day didn't go smoothly. Added the second set of dry hops yesterday so decided to take a sample to taste and check gravity. Tasted incredible and gravity was down to 1.013.

Used Yeast Bay Vermont yeast. Don't have space to brew the blonde ale to get the yeast going so did a big yeast starter, split it in two so have one for the next batch and made another starter for this brew with the other half. Was shocked to see the yeast get down that low from what I read about the first generation finishing high. Would what I did with the yeast basically make my starter a second generation? Airlock was bubbling again last night and I raised the temperature to 70° so hopefully it will drop another few points.

This will be my first attempt at kegging so hopefully all goes well. I'e got a Co2 transfer set up for my fermonster so hopefully that works too as I want to keep oxygen out of this beer as much as possible. Just have a question about kegging. I can't seem to find details now but remember Braufessor saying he carbonates to about 30psi of press for a couple of days then drops to serving pressure of around 12psi. Is this force carbonation? Do I need to rock the keg back and forth or will leaving it alone in the keg for a few days at 30psi do the trick? Hoping to keg Wednesday when I get home from work, will Saturday to Wednesday be long enough for the second dry hop?

Going to brew this again before Christmas and going to try the new method of one big dry hop. Also can' g Galaxy hops at the minute and only have around 2oz left so going with Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. Would like to use up the 2oz of Galaxy so when would be best to use this, whirlpool or dryhop? I'll post up a photo of the end product next weekend, very excited to try it now.
 

ba-brewer

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Used Yeast Bay Vermont yeast. Don't have space to brew the blonde ale to get the yeast going so did a big yeast starter, split it in two so have one for the next batch and made another starter for this brew with the other half.

Also can' g Galaxy hops at the minute and only have around 2oz left so going with Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. Would like to use up the 2oz of Galaxy so when would be best to use this, whirlpool or dryhop? I'll post up a photo of the end product next weekend, very excited to try it now.
Use the 2oz of galaxy in your blonde.
 

centrical

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Is this force carbonation? Do I need to rock the keg back and forth or will leaving it alone in the keg for a few days at 30psi do the trick?
Yes, carbing it up under pressure in a keg is "forced carbonation". No rocking necessary - I use 30psi for a day, then 20 for the 2nd day, then I turn it down to 8-10 psi to serve.
 

homebrewdude76

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I brewed on on Friday. Chilled to 65F, next day I was 67F with some activity. The basement was 65f so I didn't hook my chiller up. This AM it was in fermenting fast and temp was 72F, basement still was 65f.

I should have hooked my chiller up to the conical....
 
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Braufessor

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Just want to thank Braufessor for an incredible recipe and everyone elrfor the advice. Brewed this last weekend but didn't have high hopes for it as brew day didn't go smoothly. Added the second set of dry hops yesterday so decided to take a sample to taste and check gravity. Tasted incredible and gravity was down to 1.013.

Used Yeast Bay Vermont yeast. Don't have space to brew the blonde ale to get the yeast going so did a big yeast starter, split it in two so have one for the next batch and made another starter for this brew with the other half. Was shocked to see the yeast get down that low from what I read about the first generation finishing high. Would what I did with the yeast basically make my starter a second generation? Airlock was bubbling again last night and I raised the temperature to 70° so hopefully it will drop another few points.

This will be my first attempt at kegging so hopefully all goes well. I'e got a Co2 transfer set up for my fermonster so hopefully that works too as I want to keep oxygen out of this beer as much as possible. Just have a question about kegging. I can't seem to find details now but remember Braufessor saying he carbonates to about 30psi of press for a couple of days then drops to serving pressure of around 12psi. Is this force carbonation? Do I need to rock the keg back and forth or will leaving it alone in the keg for a few days at 30psi do the trick? Hoping to keg Wednesday when I get home from work, will Saturday to Wednesday be long enough for the second dry hop?

Going to brew this again before Christmas and going to try the new method of one big dry hop. Also can' g Galaxy hops at the minute and only have around 2oz left so going with Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe. Would like to use up the 2oz of Galaxy so when would be best to use this, whirlpool or dryhop? I'll post up a photo of the end product next weekend, very excited to try it now.
Use the galaxy in the dry hop, not flame out, if you only have 2 ounces.

Don't rock the keg - just set it in that 30psi range and leave it for a couple days, then take a pour a sample and see where it is at and how much you want to back off the pressure.

Saturday - wednesday is long enough for the flavor aspect of the dry hop.... bigger issue might be how well the hops have settled out as far as transfer issues.
 

aaronm13

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Use the galaxy in the dry hop, not flame out, if you only have 2 ounces.

Don't rock the keg - just set it in that 30psi range and leave it for a couple days, then take a pour a sample and see where it is at and how much you want to back off the pressure.

Saturday - wednesday is long enough for the flavor aspect of the dry hop.... bigger issue might be how well the hops have settled out as far as transfer issues.
Thanks Bruafessor and everyone else for the kegging tips. I put my first round of dry hops in a hop bag and the second round went into one of those 300 micron hop spiders, will this help with settlement issues? I think I might be slightly rushing things in regards to having it ready for the weekend, just dying to try it out as soon as possible. I might wait till Friday or Saturday so. I had toyed with the idea if cold crashing on Wednesday morning but terrified of oxygenating the beer.

I have seen something on here with a sandwich bag tied around the airlock the Co2 out into the bag, has anyone tried something like that? Would racking the beet to the keg and crash for 24 hours then adding Co2 be a better option to carb be a better option? I will also attach a dip tube screen to my racking cane to reduce the amount of debris going into the keg.
 

Beerdrinker85

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For those who have the possibility to primary co2 transfer to the keg, I must say that since I ferment under co2 and transfer with this kit (picture) (I bought all the hardware pieces from an old post here so I do not take credit), my NEIPA have greatly increased on overall quality. You just have to turn the valve and connect the QD and voila. Just want to share my experience and how it has smoothed my transfer process for those who are lazy just like me.

On my last batch of this NEIPA, I tried what Braufessor said about dropping all the dry hop at day2 until the end (14 days in my case) and it worked really good! no harshness, no grassy flavor at all. I'm gonna stick to this process instead of 2 dry hop charge.

I don't know how many versions of this recipe I brewed, but each time I cold crash for 2 days, I never clogged a QD or a keg post. I'm not using any filter.


 

degivens

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For those who have the possibility to primary co2 transfer to the keg, I must say that since I ferment under co2 and transfer with this kit (picture) (I bought all the hardware pieces from an old post here so I do not take credit), my NEIPA have greatly increased on overall quality. You just have to turn the valve and connect the QD and voila. Just want to share my experience and how it has smoothed my transfer process for those who are lazy just like me.

On my last batch of this NEIPA, I tried what Braufessor said about dropping all the dry hop at day2 until the end (14 days in my case) and it worked really good! no harshness, no grassy flavor at all. I'm gonna stick to this process instead of 2 dry hop charge.

I don't know how many versions of this recipe I brewed, but each time I cold crash for 2 days, I never clogged a QD or a keg post. I'm not using any filter.


Almost identical setup here. Works like a champ every time.
 

stickyfinger

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"For those who have the possibility to primary co2 transfer to the keg, I must say that since I ferment under co2 and transfer with this kit (picture) (I bought all the hardware pieces from an old post here so I do not take credit), my NEIPA have greatly increased on overall quality. "

Are you saying that with everything else being equal, just pressure transferring had a noticeable difference in your NEIPAs?
 

Beerdrinker85

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Well, when I bought the blowoff hardware I started fermenting under pressure and transferring with the no oxygen method at the same time. I should have said maybe both...

Before, I only purged the keg with co2 and transfer the beer in an open keg with the tube at the bottom.
 

stickyfinger

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I never got any apple out of it. I would consider apple an off-flavor. Maybe you racked before it had a chance to clean up which could result in acetaldehyde? Do you recall how long you let it ferment?
I guess I thought of the apple flavor as just a different ester that the strain produces. It wasn't like it was an apple-bomb, just reminded me of apple somewhat. I don't think it was acetaldehyde but could have been i guess. Looking back, I did rack it too soon. It was only 6 days from brew to keg. It also did develop diacetyl in the keg. I'm sure there were a ton of diacetyl precursors in the beer. I had never really worried about diacetyl before but started having issues around that timeframe. I fermented mine at 90F, so I was nervous about leaving it on the yeast for too long.
 

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Tried to squeeze in brewing another batch of this on Thanksgiving morning. All went good, pitched a starter of WPL 008, it took off Friday morning. Had to leave town for a few days Friday evening, so I hit it with the 6 oz dry hop...figured it had a blowoff tube so I'd be OK....came back today and it must have had something akin to an eruption/explosion. Probably should have taken some pictures but it blew out the blowoff hose, somehow opened the door on the fermentation chamber (wine cooler), and probably lost ~1/2 gallon on the floor. I wish I was here to see it, the aftermath was impressive. There was a 1" hop/dry wort plug lodged in the neck of the carbon, so I cleaned up as best as possible, put the blowoff back on, and it's still bubbling away. Guess I'll see what happens.

Thinking about hitting it with another dry hop of 3oz of Citra to try makeup for blowout loss.
 

TimmyWit

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I guess I thought of the apple flavor as just a different ester that the strain produces. It wasn't like it was an apple-bomb, just reminded me of apple somewhat. I don't think it was acetaldehyde but could have been i guess. Looking back, I did rack it too soon. It was only 6 days from brew to keg. It also did develop diacetyl in the keg. I'm sure there were a ton of diacetyl precursors in the beer. I had never really worried about diacetyl before but started having issues around that timeframe. I fermented mine at 90F, so I was nervous about leaving it on the yeast for too long.
That is pretty quick. I have started transferring mine to either the dry-hop keg or serving keg somewhere between 7-10 but I'll leave it at room temp or warmer for a few days up to a week to let the yeast finish up while gaining the added benefit of some active oxygen scavenging. I think there's some debate as to whether or not it's advisable to even move it off the trub that fast but so far I have been happy with the results.
Don't give up on 057 yet, it's a great yeast! :cask:
 

centrical

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Thanks Bruafessor and everyone else for the kegging tips. I put my first round of dry hops in a hop bag and the second round went into one of those 300 micron hop spiders, will this help with settlement issues? I think I might be slightly rushing things in regards to having it ready for the weekend, just dying to try it out as soon as possible. I might wait till Friday or Saturday so. I had toyed with the idea if cold crashing on Wednesday morning but terrified of oxygenating the beer.

I have seen something on here with a sandwich bag tied around the airlock the Co2 out into the bag, has anyone tried something like that? Would racking the beet to the keg and crash for 24 hours then adding Co2 be a better option to carb be a better option? I will also attach a dip tube screen to my racking cane to reduce the amount of debris going into the keg.
"terrified of oxygenating the beer"
Be afraid. Be very afraid. ;-)

I use the "bag over the airlock" method. I inflate a plastic bag with CO2, take the top off of my airlock and dump the water out, and then fasten the bag over the top with a rubber band.

Then I cold crash for 3 or 4 days to make sure to get rid of any astringent burn.

I would crash prior to racking into the keg - just my preference.
I like to get it clean as possible into the keg.
 

pearljam1984

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I don’t have a great setup like seen above. I’ll say in my experience you have to be fairly reckless to lose a batch(in this style) to oxidation. When I rack to keg, I turn on Co2 and then bleed out a few times. Then I crack lid enough for tubing, run tubing to bottom of keg. Making sure no splashing can occur. Turn Co2 back on low and run for a few minutes with lid cracked. Keep running and start transfer of beer. This will flush out any oxygen and allow for pretty straight forward transfer.

I have had one oxidized batch, but it was due to keg getting clogged and opening it multiple times.
 

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One in the glass..... one in the kettle.

This one I used 1318 Yeast and 3:1:1:1 Citra/Simcoe/Mosaic/Centennial - Turned out really well. 6 ounces in flameout after 160 degrees and 6 ounce dry hop on day 2-3. All hops in loose. Kegged on day 12-14 range.

Did you not perform a second dry-hop in this beer or just a single dry-hop on day 2?
 

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Tried using WY1007 German Ale in a Heady Topper clone. It is not right for sure. It is way too dry, crisp and clean. It is hazy as **** though. I think it would be an excellent replacement for Chico in American beers. It is excellent. And, I did a VDK precursor test and found none. So, that is a huge step for me, as every single damn IPA I have brewed over the last several months has had precursors. I'm impressed. I think I'm going to try the Farmhouse Brewing IPA yeast blend on my next NEIPA (or just use the WY1318 I just used in a bitter!) Anyone have results on the Farmhouse yeast yet?
 

degivens

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Tried using WY1007 German Ale in a Heady Topper clone. It is not right for sure. It is way too dry, crisp and clean. It is hazy as badword though. I think it would be an excellent replacement for Chico in American beers. It is excellent. And, I did a VDK precursor test and found none. So, that is a huge step for me, as every single damn IPA I have brewed over the last several months has had precursors. I'm impressed. I think I'm going to try the Farmhouse Brewing IPA yeast blend on my next NEIPA (or just use the WY1318 I just used in a bitter!) Anyone have results on the Farmhouse yeast yet?
Just bought some. Going to brew this weekend. Will report back.
 

degivens

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Please do report back. I am very interested in this yeast. I'm also interested to see if you can keep harvesting from starters with it and get a similar character.
Can also let you know on that. Going to make a 2x starter and save 1/2. Fingers crossed :)
 
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Braufessor

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I don’t have a great setup like seen above. I’ll say in my experience you have to be fairly reckless to lose a batch(in this style) to oxidation. When I rack to keg, I turn on Co2 and then bleed out a few times. Then I crack lid enough for tubing, run tubing to bottom of keg. Making sure no splashing can occur. Turn Co2 back on low and run for a few minutes with lid cracked. Keep running and start transfer of beer. This will flush out any oxygen and allow for pretty straight forward transfer.

I have had one oxidized batch, but it was due to keg getting clogged and opening it multiple times.
Yeah - this is pretty much what I do too.... I have no problems with oxygen. A lot of it is just getting a repetitive process down that works for the set up you happen to have. Once you do that, repetition of the process really goes a long way toward eliminating a lot of the oxygen exposure areas.
 

TimmyWit

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Please do report back. I am very interested in this yeast. I'm also interested to see if you can keep harvesting from starters with it and get a similar character.
I should have some results in a few weeks. As I usually do, I split it 3 ways with 2 other yeasts so I'll have something to compare it too.

Coincidentally, it has been well over a year since I harvested yeast but I pulled a liter from the starter this time. I had stopped harvesting because I found that I always wanted to use different strains so the harvested yeast never got used. But, as I mentioned a few posts ago, 057 has really grown on me and I have used it a lot lately so I decided to start harvesting again.
 

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Question for the group- has anyone used a Hop filter in transferring beer from fermenter to keg? Like putting the filter around the bottom of your hose/tubing? This would be with the idea to capture any trub/hops and get the most beer out of the fermenter. I’m wondering if the keg filter would actually capture the trub material.
 

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stickyfinger

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Question for the group- has anyone used a Hop filter in transferring beer from fermenter to keg? Like putting the filter around the bottom of your hose/tubing? This would be with the idea to capture any trub/hops and get the most beer out of the fermenter. I’m wondering if the keg filter would actually capture the trub material.
I just bought this autosiphon filter. It has worked very well so far:

http://arborfab.com/Auto-Siphon-Filter_p_57.html

I have the narrower diameter auto siphon. I used to have a wider one that might not fit, but the narrower one fits fine. Snug but it fits.
 
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