New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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EndOfLine

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Was thinking about adding some turbinado. Do you add at the end of the boil? I'm trying to get a sweeter and juicier finish, rather than pithy grapefruit. Would love to hear more about your process in trying to gett it closer to a Juliius clone.
Sugar will be nearly 100% consumed by yeast and make your beer even more pithy. You will want more spec malt to increase the final gravity for a more juicy flavor. Juice has tons of sugar it in. The more left over sugar in your beer will give you the result you want.
However too much caramel malt may give you a Cotton candy, prune juice, caramel flavor that will clash with this style of beer. Maybe try malt like carahell, and add a bit of Munich, will give you what you want.
 

AcreBrewer

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I've made 2 NEIPA's. One is done, my clone of Substance & one my clone of Reciprocal was just racked to dry hopping bucket. I took a sample last night to try it. And it as well as my Substance clone seem to have a higher than normal bitter taste. And not as juice bomb as I would have liked. Esp the Reciprocal clone in process now. It smells awesome. I used about 6 oz at 15 min & 6 more at 140F whirlpool (missed the 160F mark by mistake). I know its early but with the 4 oz of Vic Secret & 2 oz of Stella in the primary dry hop (second dry hop was the same) I expected more of a juice bomb. Maybe it will be better after I cold crash it? Anyone else get more bitter & less juice / fruity?
 

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Band-aid flavor is usually from chlorine or chloramine in water. A very small amount present can cause this off flavor. A carbon filter will get rid of chorine if you have a slow flow, but not chloramine. Cities usually switch to chloramine during the summer because it is higher temperature resistant and won't evaporate away. Can take 4-6 hours just to boil off lol.

Yeasts can also mutate after a few generations. A yeast mutation can give all kinds of bizarre flavors including band-aid.
I brew with RO but clean/sanitize kegs with chloramine-treated tap water. I directly transfer my beer to kegs via conicals, and I know there is a bit of tap water left in those kegs (maybe 50 mL). Do you think this is enough to cause a chlorophenolic reaction?
 

grassfeeder

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I've made 2 NEIPA's. One is done, my clone of Substance & one my clone of Reciprocal was just racked to dry hopping bucket. I took a sample last night to try it. And it as well as my Substance clone seem to have a higher than normal bitter taste. And not as juice bomb as I would have liked. Esp the Reciprocal clone in process now. It smells awesome. I used about 6 oz at 15 min & 6 more at 140F whirlpool (missed the 160F mark by mistake). I know its early but with the 4 oz of Vic Secret & 2 oz of Stella in the primary dry hop (second dry hop was the same) I expected more of a juice bomb. Maybe it will be better after I cold crash it? Anyone else get more bitter & less juice / fruity?
rough calculations in my head but 6oz at 15 minutes is a **** ton of hops at 15 minutes. I think you would have been better off doing a single .5oz bittering addition at 60 and saving the rest for the whirlpool.
 

Gustatorian

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rough calculations in my head but 6oz at 15 minutes is a **** ton of hops at 15 minutes. I think you would have been better off doing a single .5oz bittering addition at 60 and saving the rest for the whirlpool.
+1, I assume you're using high alpha/high oil hops. 6 oz at 15 minutes will land you above 100 IBUs
 
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I've made 2 NEIPA's. One is done, my clone of Substance & one my clone of Reciprocal was just racked to dry hopping bucket. I took a sample last night to try it. And it as well as my Substance clone seem to have a higher than normal bitter taste. And not as juice bomb as I would have liked. Esp the Reciprocal clone in process now. It smells awesome. I used about 6 oz at 15 min & 6 more at 140F whirlpool (missed the 160F mark by mistake). I know its early but with the 4 oz of Vic Secret & 2 oz of Stella in the primary dry hop (second dry hop was the same) I expected more of a juice bomb. Maybe it will be better after I cold crash it? Anyone else get more bitter & less juice / fruity?
Yep - like grassfeeder said ...... should not have put any of those hops in at 15 minutes. Everything goes in after the flame goes off except for perhaps a small (1/2-3/4 ounce) bitter addition early on.
 

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Mash pH = 5.37-5.42

Final runnings pH = 5.60

Pre-boil Kettle pH = 5.40-5.45

Post Boil pH = 5.3-5.35



We're these readings all taken at room temp?
 

ScrewyBrewer

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Sure. OG was 1.060. FG high at 1.022.

Fermentaion day 1: 63F, Day2 65F, Day3 and 4 68F. Room temp after, 73F.

I cool the wort to about 160F before adding hops. Then wait 20min and start chill plate cooling. Don't really stir much, so guess not a true whirlpool.

Cold crashed day 7. Dry hopped on day 8 in bottling bucket (with CO2 purging the entire time), but that turned into a fiasco. The beer is turning for the worse after day 10. Other's have better methods tho.
I thought hop isomerization stopped at 170-175F, that's why I did hopstand/whirlpool at flameout to 175F, when I did mine it took 10 gallons to go from 212F to 175F.
 

ScrewyBrewer

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OK, so I also don't want to sift 450+ pages...

In a nutshell, what is making the cloudiness?

Is it simply proteins from all that wheat malt? Are you skipping kettle finings? Is anyone adding anything specifically to stabilize and suspend the haze...or is that maybe what glucans from the oats are doing?
I think a heavy dosing of dry hops would do more to add the haze than anything else. I never use finings in a NE IPA, it seems counterproductive at best.
 

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I have a 6 week old keg on NEIPA that I shook up yesterday to resuspend all the hop oils. I dry hopped in the keg and it totally kicked new life into this beer. It dropped clear, but now it's nice and hazy again, and I taste way more of the hop resin character. Perfect for a 8% version.
 

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I used cryohops in my last batch and it was clear in two weeks. My pellet batches have never done this. I just did the same thing today. Shook it up.
 

tomchukj

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Just got done with a citra/mosaic/amarillo 2:1:2 and will say i am pretty disappointed. Aroma is great but flavor is too light.
 

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Can you discuss your no-oxygen process in post 1418? The link you provided no longer works. :(

(http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html)
Hmmmmm..... might be time for another "update" post in the near future.

http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

**Also.... I would call this "lower oxygen" ..... this process would not result in "no oxygen." And, I have been moving more toward doing all of my dry hopping in primary and skipping the use of this dry hopping keg. The "pro" of dry hopping in primary is it is one less step of moving beer and exposing it to oxygen. The "con" is you have to be able to do it in a way that won't cause problems with your system when it comes time to transfer the beer to serving keg from primary (i.e....... all those hops not plugging things up.)
 

Gustatorian

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Hmmmmm..... might be time for another "update" post in the near future.

http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

**Also.... I would call this "lower oxygen" ..... this process would not result in "no oxygen." And, I have been moving more toward doing all of my dry hopping in primary and skipping the use of this dry hopping keg. The "pro" of dry hopping in primary is it is one less step of moving beer and exposing it to oxygen. The "con" is you have to be able to do it in a way that won't cause problems with your system when it comes time to transfer the beer to serving keg from primary (i.e....... all those hops not plugging things up.)
How are you transferring from primary to a keg without dropping the temp? I ferment in a conical, and I have to cold-crash to at least 50ºF to drop the hops to the cone before I can do a direct-transfer to a keg without the worry of clogging the port/poppit/out-line.
 

mintyice

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Can you discuss your no-oxygen process in post 1418? The link you provided no longer works. :(

(http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09...no-oxygen.html)
Time to start fermenting in corny kegs with a spunding valve. Either cut the dip tube or use a keg float, use a picnic tap to measure gravity, transfer via CO2 to another keg to serve. Pop the lid and purge when dry hopping if you are doing it in the first keg, or dry hop in the serving vessel (or both). You'll probably only get ~4 gallons this way if you are using 5 gallon kegs, but better than 5 gallons of oxidized beer.

Alternatively, find a 10 gallon corny keg to primary in.
 
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How are you transferring from primary to a keg without dropping the temp? I ferment in a conical, and I have to cold-crash to at least 50ºF to drop the hops to the cone before I can do a direct-transfer to a keg without the worry of clogging the port/poppit/out-line.
I use SS Brew buckets, which do have a "cone" type bottom. I start ferment in basement (cooler) and I have been doing a single, 6 ounce dry hop on day 3. On day 4, I carry the fermenter upstairs. On day 10, I carry the fermenter back down stairs and set it on the counter in brew room. On day 12, I rack via gravity into keg. I think that moving the fermenter a couple times after dry hop helps the hops fall out of suspension and then sitting their two days before transfer helps them to settle in the cone. Generally, I just don't have much problem with a lot of particulate getting transferred..... I don't even use the little racking arm in the brew bucket. I do collect the first 6-8 ounces in a pint glass as that is heavier on sediment. Generally, I just have not had a problem with this method.
 
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Time to start fermenting in corny kegs with a spunding valve. Either cut the dip tube or use a keg float, use a picnic tap to measure gravity, transfer via CO2 to another keg to serve. Pop the lid and purge when dry hopping if you are doing it in the first keg, or dry hop in the serving vessel (or both). You'll probably only get ~4 gallons this way if you are using 5 gallon kegs, but better than 5 gallons of oxidized beer.

Alternatively, find a 10 gallon corny keg to primary in.
I have been doing this for my last 3-4 batches of lagers.....Getting ready to give it a shot with one of these NE IPA's in the near future and see if it makes a difference.
 

hezagenius

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Hmmmmm..... might be time for another "update" post in the near future.

http://www.bear-flavored.com/2014/09/how-i-dry-hop-my-ipas-with-no-oxygen.html

**Also.... I would call this "lower oxygen" ..... this process would not result in "no oxygen." And, I have been moving more toward doing all of my dry hopping in primary and skipping the use of this dry hopping keg. The "pro" of dry hopping in primary is it is one less step of moving beer and exposing it to oxygen. The "con" is you have to be able to do it in a way that won't cause problems with your system when it comes time to transfer the beer to serving keg from primary (i.e....... all those hops not plugging things up.)
I'm convinced doing the dry hopping in the same vessel as fermentation will improve these beers. I just need to find a pony keg I can ferment in. Or scale back to 4 gallons and add some FermcapS to prevent clogged poppets in a corny keg. I'm tempted to get a Brew Bucket but I really want a vessel that can reliably hold a decent amount of psi. Ponies are getting tough to find.
 

Gustatorian

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Time to start fermenting in corny kegs with a spunding valve. Either cut the dip tube or use a keg float, use a picnic tap to measure gravity, transfer via CO2 to another keg to serve. Pop the lid and purge when dry hopping if you are doing it in the first keg, or dry hop in the serving vessel (or both). You'll probably only get ~4 gallons this way if you are using 5 gallon kegs, but better than 5 gallons of oxidized beer.

Alternatively, find a 10 gallon corny keg to primary in.
When you pop the lid, do you just open it enough to add the dry-hops, while simultaneously push CO2 through the gas line? How much pressure are you using?

I assume this will make a CO2 blanket on top of the beer, hindering oxygen from entering the keg?
 

mintyice

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When you pop the lid, do you just open it enough to add the dry-hops, while simultaneously push CO2 through the gas line? How much pressure are you using?

I assume this will make a CO2 blanket on top of the beer, hindering oxygen from entering the keg?
For primary in a keg, you can depressurize the keg, pop the lid, let 1-2psi CO2 run into the open keg while you add the dry hops and if you really want you can purge your hops with CO2 before you add them. I'd use a keg float and semi crash the keg for a day before transferring over to a serving keg. You could probably spund to 1psi here to ensure oxygen is out of the tank.

After fermentation is done or almost done: use a in to in keg jumper, add more hops and a keg float to the 2nd keg, purge the keg to 1-2psi, spund it, and use ~5psi hooked up to the first keg push to the second.
 

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I thought hop isomerization stopped at 170-175F, that's why I did hopstand/whirlpool at flameout to 175F, when I did mine it took 10 gallons to go from 212F to 175F.
The "juciest" beers I've ever made were when the "whirlpool" was below 160F. Just trying to keep the myrcene oil from volitalizing.
 

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First time using Wyeast 1318 on Sunday. Did Brauffesor's recipe and crushed it. I'll be honest I didn't check OG and now it is 3 days later and I haven't seen it enter fermentation yet. Never any bubbles in the airlock or craziness in the fermentor. Have it in the chest freezer at 66 and moved it down to 64 this morning. Anyone else have it take a long while for 1318 to get cooking? Anything else I could have done wrong or anything else I should do to make sure either it hasn't started yet or it has finished and I just missed it?
 

runs4beer

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I'm convinced doing the dry hopping in the same vessel as fermentation will improve these beers. I just need to find a pony keg I can ferment in. Or scale back to 4 gallons and add some FermcapS to prevent clogged poppets in a corny keg. I'm tempted to get a Brew Bucket but I really want a vessel that can reliably hold a decent amount of psi. Ponies are getting tough to find.
Another option is to use half barrel. Needless to say they are without a conical bottom but with this style IPA off the cake within 15 days it shouldn't be an issue.
With a kit like this:

https://www.brewershardware.com/Ame...ermowell.html#product-details-tab-description

They can hold plenty of pressure and are easy to sanitize.
 
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First time using Wyeast 1318 on Sunday. Did Brauffesor's recipe and crushed it. I'll be honest I didn't check OG and now it is 3 days later and I haven't seen it enter fermentation yet. Never any bubbles in the airlock or craziness in the fermentor. Have it in the chest freezer at 66 and moved it down to 64 this morning. Anyone else have it take a long while for 1318 to get cooking? Anything else I could have done wrong or anything else I should do to make sure either it hasn't started yet or it has finished and I just missed it?
Did you make a starter?

Don't lower the temperature....dropping the temp while the yeast is trying to get going will only slow it down..... Probably could have just left it at 66.
 

WoodsonNoles

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Did you make a starter?

Don't lower the temperature....dropping the temp while the yeast is trying to get going will only slow it down..... Probably could have just left it at 66.
Didn't make a starter. For some reason didn't think it was necessary for this yeast. I just took the bag out of the fridge about 5 hours before pitching and smacked it.
 

GnenieGone

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First time using Wyeast 1318 on Sunday. Did Brauffesor's recipe and crushed it. I'll be honest I didn't check OG and now it is 3 days later and I haven't seen it enter fermentation yet. Never any bubbles in the airlock or craziness in the fermentor. Have it in the chest freezer at 66 and moved it down to 64 this morning. Anyone else have it take a long while for 1318 to get cooking? Anything else I could have done wrong or anything else I should do to make sure either it hasn't started yet or it has finished and I just missed it?
Mine ended at 1.022 after 7 days. First time myself. Sure it's making alcohol.
 

kozmicsky

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Made this about a week ago.. stuck to the original recipe with the exception of subbing El Dorado in place of the Galaxy. Came out fan-friggen-tastic! I have quite a bit of experience with NEIPAs and was really impressed with how this turned out. Better than some of the commercial ones I have tried. Probably due to the super freshness of homebrewing and quick carbing. Thanks for a great recipe! I have made a few tweaks for my next brew and this will definitely be a regular on tap at my house.

One thing to note, I did lose some volume to the hops. Filled one keg to 5 gallons and the other to 4 gallons. I made a 13 gallon batch.

new-england-ipa.jpg
 

WoodsonNoles

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Did you make a starter?

Don't lower the temperature....dropping the temp while the yeast is trying to get going will only slow it down..... Probably could have just left it at 66.
Just took a sample and it is at 1.050. Since I didn't take a sample at any point before I have nothing to compare it to. Should I drive an hour to get another 1318 pack or a different yeast or still continue to give it time
 
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Just took a sample and it is at 1.050. Since I didn't take a sample at any point before I have nothing to compare it to. Should I drive an hour to get another 1318 pack or a different yeast or still continue to give it time
Get more yeast. I guess I would just go with dry yeast US-05 on this one.... it has been sitting a long time at this point and I don't know that I would dump a $8-$9 pouch of yeast in it at this point.

I wonder if your initial pouch of yeast was old? I guess I would throw the 05 in this one and see what you get. It is a yeast that works fine in beers like this and if the 1318 is starting to do something, you will get a blend of the two and it should be ok.

Next time around, use 1318 and either make a starter or maybe use a couple packs, smack them to make sure they are going - make sure the yeast is fresh too..... that can make a big difference.
 
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Just took a sample and it is at 1.050. Since I didn't take a sample at any point before I have nothing to compare it to. Should I drive an hour to get another 1318 pack or a different yeast or still continue to give it time
**Also - Let your temp. climb to 68 degrees. That might help get the yeast going.
 

centrical

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Just took a sample and it is at 1.050. Since I didn't take a sample at any point before I have nothing to compare it to. Should I drive an hour to get another 1318 pack or a different yeast or still continue to give it time
I'd warm it to 68, give it 12 more hours. If nothing, you better get some more yeast. But this time make a 1.5L starter, and keep .5L of it as your next yeast. (pitch 1L).

---EDIT: oops, redundant reply! --
 

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Transferred this to the keg with some dry hops last night. I used 1318 and it went from 1.064 to 1.011 in 4 days. Honestly it was probably almost finished on Day 3. The krausen completely dropped out by Day 3. I dry hopped with 5oz Citra and 5oz Mosaic. I also used 6oz X331 in the whirlpool. From now on, I'm dry hopping on Day 3. I think I will also serve out of this keg to avoid any unnecessary transferring.

I tried something a little different with this batch. I did 2 lower temp whirlpools with this one. The first was at 155 and the second was at 109. I'm trying to get maximum flavor and avoid any of the bitterness.

Sample.jpg


Hydro.jpg
 

Gustatorian

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Transferred this to the keg with some dry hops last night. I used 1318 and it went from 1.064 to 1.011 in 4 days. Honestly it was probably almost finished on Day 3. The krausen completely dropped out by Day 3. I dry hopped with 5oz Citra and 5oz Mosaic. I also used 6oz X331 in the whirlpool. From now on, I'm dry hopping on Day 3. I think I will also serve out of this keg to avoid any unnecessary transferring.

I tried something a little different with this batch. I did 2 lower temp whirlpools with this one. The first was at 155 and the second was at 109. I'm trying to get maximum flavor and avoid any of the bitterness.
Looks nice! Is the prior to cold-crashing the beer?
 

hezagenius

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Looks nice! Is the prior to cold-crashing the beer?
Yes, pre-crash. I don't crash before dry hopping. I have a blowoff tube hooked up to hopefully allow any final fermentation to expel any remaining O2 that could have got in from the dry hopping or racking. Tonight, I'll hit the keg with with about 15psi and then hook up a spunding valve and set it to around 7psi. I'll drop the temp down to 60F for 4 days. Then I'll move it to the kegerator, hit it with my serving pressure and let it crash/carb for a few weeks before serving. I'm going to serve it out of this keg unless I start picking up any grassiness.
 

hezagenius

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Another option is to use half barrel. Needless to say they are without a conical bottom but with this style IPA off the cake within 15 days it shouldn't be an issue.
With a kit like this:

https://www.brewershardware.com/Ame...ermowell.html#product-details-tab-description

They can hold plenty of pressure and are easy to sanitize.
Do you use one of those? My issue is height in my ferm chamber. I've got about 27-28" total height and a standard sankey keg is about 23". If that assembly can be installed and add less than 5" of height, then I'm in. That's why I've been looking for a pony keg. I've seen a similar setup with NorCal. With a pony, the TC would interface the same, but I'd have plenty of clearance for the tubing sticking out.
 

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Just kegged my third brew of this using the #1418 post update. I have been dry hopping twice in primary (Day 3 and about 6) and no keg hops and they have all been fantastic. With the dry hops I have been doing 1:1:1 of CMG and adding an ounce of Amarillo to the second dry hop. This recipe is straight money!
 

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Brewed this accidental session NEIPA on 7-30

8.5 # 2 row
1# Vienna
1# flaked wheat
.5# carapils
.25# honey malt

Only a 30 minute boil... seemed to do the trick!

(30) 1 oz nugget
(15) .5 oz ""
(0) .5 ""
2 oz citra
2 oz mosaic

Undershot my OG... new brew shop and thinking their mills are set way less fine then what I was using back home- 1.043

Pitched Imperial A20 Citrus, let it go pretty warm

Dry hop into keg-
2oz citra
2oz mosaic
2oz Amarillo


Tasting notes- Super orange juice, like a frothy Orange Julius (never had Treehouse's so can't speak to that, but that was my initial thought). A lot of pineapple from this yeast, it's really good in the style and doesn't "stick out" as much as I was worried it might. Tastes nothing like Brett. I'm into this yeast even more than Conan so far. Also, mouthfeel is pretty good for such a low gravity IPA. Now I need to try the same thing but boost up the gravity.


View attachment 410424
 

grassfeeder

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Brewed this accidental session NEIPA on 7-30

8.5 # 2 row
1# Vienna
1# flaked wheat
.5# carapils
.25# honey malt

Only a 30 minute boil... seemed to do the trick!

(30) 1 oz nugget
(15) .5 oz ""
(0) .5 ""
2 oz citra
2 oz mosaic

Undershot my OG... new brew shop and thinking their mills are set way less fine then what I was using back home- 1.043

Pitched Imperial A20 Citrus, let it go pretty warm

Dry hop into keg-
2oz citra
2oz mosaic
2oz Amarillo


Tasting notes- Super orange juice, like a frothy Orange Julius (never had Treehouse's so can't speak to that, but that was my initial thought). A lot of pineapple from this yeast, it's really good in the style and doesn't "stick out" as much as I was worried it might. Tastes nothing like Brett. I'm into this yeast even more than Conan so far. Also, mouthfeel is pretty good for such a low gravity IPA. Now I need to try the same thing but boost up the gravity.


View attachment 410424
Not only is the Imperial Citrus great in this style - also try the DryHop Yeast as well. Avoid the Juice yeast. It's more of a mess than anything else.
 
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