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Diaperload

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Hello Everyone. I'm a new home brewer and have a few questions.

Some basic background info: I'm doing extract brews right now and am on my second batch. My first batch was a Newcastle Brown Ale clone which turned out very nice although it wasn't quite as sweet as NBA.

My second batch is currently is primary and is a clone of Widmer Hefeweizen.

I'm using Grolsch bottles.

Ok, so my questions:

1. I have an idea in my mind what a "mash tun" is but could someone explain to me exactly what it is? Maybe even a picture?

2. I was reading a recipe and noticed this; .5lb dewolf cosyn choc malt, 350° Lovibund. What does 350° Luvibund mean?

3. When boiling hops, quite a few recipes call for boiling 1oz. of hops for 60 minutes and then another 1oz. of hops for the last 10 min (finishing hops?). Why the finishing hops? Could someone explain why this is done?

4. What does 'starter yeast' mean? I'm assuming it has to do with all grain brewing which I don't do (yet?).

That's all the questions I can think of for now.

Thanks in advance for the answers.
 
I'm going to save you a lot of heartache and pain. Go to your local bookstore or LHBS and pick up The Complete Joy of Home Brewing by Charlie Papazian and How to Brew by John Palmer. A lot of this info is in there plus more great knowledge.
 
Advise heavily both the above recommendations, BUT!!...

Ok, so my questions:

1. I have an idea in my mind what a "mash tun" is but could someone explain to me exactly what it is? Maybe even a picture?

Mash tuns are used for all-grain batches, and are basically large Rubbermaid (or equivalent) coolers used to soak grain in hot water & extract the fermentable sugars out of. Here's a basic one via Google:

Mash%20Tun%20-%20Full%20View.JPG


2. I was reading a recipe and noticed this; .5lb dewolf cosyn choc malt, 350° Lovibund. What does 350° Luvibund mean?

Lovibond is a unit of measurement for the degree of color a particular grain (also called malt) imparts on the finished beer. I.E. chocolate malt has a higher Lovibond rating since it's a darker, more toasted malt, and crystal malt has a lower rating since it's lightly toasted. With most types of extract batches, you don't have to worry much about color ratings unless you really want that hefeweizen to be as light as the driven snow. :p

3. When boiling hops, quite a few recipes call for boiling 1oz. of hops for 60 minutes and then another 1oz. of hops for the last 10 min (finishing hops?). Why the finishing hops? Could someone explain why this is done?

Hops are categorized into 2 basic divisions: bittering & aromatic. Bittering hops are used (normally) for the full or most of the boil time to extract more of the alpha acids which impart their bitter qualities. Aromatics are just the opposite: low boil times, lower alpha acids and more aroma imparted on the beer. All depends on the style of beer & type of hop you use, which is why doing some research on beer styles helps.

4. What does 'starter yeast' mean? I'm assuming it has to do with all grain brewing which I don't do (yet?).

Other way around, actually. Yeast starters are highly recommended (but not 100% necessary when first starting out), and you can apply them to either all-grain, partial mash or extract-only batches. Starters are basically mini-batches of (normally) dry malt extract, water & the yeast you intend to use. It's basically used to get the yeast reproducing ahead of time & get them ready to take on the actual beer with more cells, and therefore, a faster fermenting, more efficient cleaning yeast colony.

Good luck! :drunk:
 

+1...... but read it twice, let the info rest in your head for a few days then read it again because its all just to much at ones,( I think I read it like a hundred times already and stil refere back to it when i forget) then buy a cooler and make a manifold and start all-grain, much more fun!!!!:rockin:
 
Scrambledeggs, thank you. That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

Everyone else, I'll check out the link.

Thanks everyone for your answers.
 
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