Newbie question on brewing and temperature stability

[wormraper]

Ok guys, I'm going to be starting on my first brew in the next week or so (I know it's been a year since I said I was thinking of starting but life got in the way)

I live in Tucson Arizona and I have a swamp cooled 1000 sq/ft house. as you know with swamp cooling it's almost impossible to get a perfectly temp controlled place. (in daytime it can be between 75-78 degrees right now and at night it can drop down to 68 if I keep the cooler on all night)

Is there any way I can keep my beer's temp within reasonable levels ??? I know about the wet towels technique and submergin the bucket in ice water but since a cooler just blows cool air and isn't attached to a thermostat how do I keep it from getting too cold at night when the ambient temp drops 7 or 8 degrees?

also was thinking of doing a Hefeweizen as my first brew due to the warmer temps down here. any good strains of yeast that's good for a Hefe besides the Saison strains (I would have started with a saison but my wife doesn't like saison's so I'll have to use that for another batch)

 

[1KD1]

It's the day time temps that you need to worry about. Dropping to 68 F at night is fine. IMO the best thing to do would be find a chest freezer and convert it to a fermentation chamber. I know, it takes up room and cost a little money but you will be happier with finished product.

 

[HOPCousin]

You could find a dark closet in the coolest area of the house away from the sun and take a card board box like a small refrigerator box and insulate it with foam board or some such.
Then keep it in that area low to the ground. You can throw an ice pack into the space to cool it a bit if you find that it still climbs too high during the day.
Keep a thermometer in there after building it and take note of the temps and times of day.
Then brew your beer once you have a sense of the temps and pick your yeast and style accordingly.

 

[wormraper]

I probably won't be able to do the chest freezer fermentation style due to my house being freaking crowded as it is. my wife would beat me 6 ways from sunday if I added something like that into the house (1000 sq foot house doesn't give us much room)

the cooling chamber might work. also was thinking that I might try the wet towels with a fan on it might work as well. having it surrounded in a larger container with ice bottles etc

 

[Calder]

Swamp cooler at 68 F (even to low 70s) is OK. English yeasts work fine at that temperature, I think PacMan would be OK too.

My suggestion would be to use a swamp cooler (large bucket with a big water bath for the fermenter), and every morning toss in a couple of frozen water bottles. Take them out in the evening and place in the freezer, and repeat next day. Seven day fermentation should be good enough to maintain temperature, then you can quit the ice bottle rotation.

 

[wormraper]

Swamp cooler at 68 F (even to low 70s) is OK. English yeasts work fine at that temperature, I think PacMan would be OK too.

My suggestion would be to use a swamp cooler (large bucket with a big water bath for the fermenter), and every morning toss in a couple of frozen water bottles. Take them out in the evening and place in the freezer, and repeat next day. Seven day fermentation should be good enough to maintain temperature, then you can quit the ice bottle rotation.

ooooo water bath would work. how high should the giant bucket be? should it cover it up to the top of the ale pale? since I've seen that mentioned before on the site anyone know WHERE to get one that would handle an ale pail?

 

[TimpanogosSlim]

dig a cellar in the back yard?

 

[wormraper]

also this is the recipe I was thinking of starting out with

"Ingredients:
6 pounds of Wheat DME
1 oz. German Hallertau Hops
Wyeast 3068 Weihenstephan Wheat

Directions:
Activate the Yeast Pack according to the direction on the back of the package. In 2 gallons of water, add the Wheat Malt. Stirring the mixture, bring it up to boil. After boil starts, add 1/2 oz. of the Hops, boil for 45 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 oz. of hops and boil for an additional 15 minutes. Turn off heat. Gently stir for a few minutes. Cool the wort and add to fermenter and top off to 5 gallons with very cold water. HINT: 8 Lbs of good filtered ice = 1 gallon of water. Top off to 5 gallons. After the temperature cools to 80*F. or cooler, open the yeast package and pour the contents on top of the wort. Ferment 7-10 days at 68* -72*F. You can also go from primary to secondary after 5 days and leave in secondary 7 days. The final specific gravity should be 1.010 - 1.012. To bottle, rack into bottling bucket. Heat 12 oz of water and 3/4 cup dextrose in microwave for 2 minutes, then add to bottling bucket. Stir gently but thoroughly. Bottle and cap. Store at room temperature 7 - 10 days, then chill as needed and enjoy."

 

[helibrewer]

I got one of those large plastic pails that is used for horse feed from a feed store...it is plenty large enough for an ale pale and holds a good volume of water.

 

[wormraper]

I got one of those large plastic pails that is used for horse feed from a feed store...it is plenty large enough for an ale pale and holds a good volume of water.

ahh, feed store, that should work well didn't think of that

off the top of your head do you remember how much it ran you?

 

[wormraper]

and so as not to start a new thread.....


Is it ok if I bottle some of the brew into a couple of growlers that I have? I was thinking of using my 2 growlers to carb some of the finished product then use it as a guys beer n pizza night but I wasn't sure if the twist on cap of a growler would allow it to carb properly

 

[RiffMagnum]

and so as not to start a new thread.....


how important is it to get a secondary fermenter??? I was going to get the standard basic kit with just a bottling bucket and primary fermenter from the LHBS since I like a beer with sediment. However the LHBS guy kept repeating that a secondary fermenter was paramount since you have a lot of beers out there that NEED a secondary otherwise they leave in a lot of nasty flavors if you don't rack to a secondary. However on here I notice a lot of people say they only primary. I'm just wondering if the LHBS guy was blowing smoke up my a$$ or just trying to help out.

I think it's up to you either way. My LHBS guy is really cool and smart and makes great beer, but he's always trying to sell me a glass carboy for secondary. He finally gave up the other day after he realized we'd had the conversation several times. I don't see myself dry hopping or aging on wood chips/fruit anytime soon, so for now i don't really need one.

 

[wormraper]

I think it's up to you either way. My LHBS guy is really cool and smart and makes great beer, but he's always trying to sell me a glass carboy for secondary. He finally gave up the other day after he realized we'd had the conversation several times. I don't see myself dry hopping or aging on wood chips/fruit anytime soon, so for now i don't really need one.

lol, that's what I guessed. I actually just got done reading through the sticky on "to secondary or not to" (durrr) and figured out that's pretty much what was happening. Plus I like the simplicity of just doing an extra long primary and not having to transfer or the added cost of a glass secondary carboy since this is my first time. 99% of beers I'll be making are good old standard oatmeal stouts, IPAs and wheat beers. I was just worried that I'd be screwing myself by getting the basic kit that only included the bottling bucket and primary ale pail.

 

[RiffMagnum]

lol, that's what I guessed. I actually just got done reading through the sticky on "to secondary or not to" (durrr) and figured out that's pretty much what was happening. Plus I like the simplicity of just doing an extra long primary and not having to transfer or the added cost of a glass secondary carboy since this is my first time. 99% of beers I'll be making are good old standard oatmeal stouts, IPAs and wheat beers. I was just worried that I'd be screwing myself by getting the basic kit that only included the bottling bucket and primary ale pail.

No, i think you're good, but you might just do what i did and buy another plastic primary so you're not sitting around waiting all the time. I mean they're cheap as hell. I'm thinking on getting a third. :cross:

Taking a shot in the dark here. Are you a member of bluray.com?

 

[Yooper]

and so as not to start a new thread.....


Is it ok if I bottle some of the brew into a couple of growlers that I have? I was thinking of using my 2 growlers to carb some of the finished product then use it as a guys beer n pizza night but I wasn't sure if the twist on cap of a growler would allow it to carb properly

No, growlers are meant to only hold carbonated beer for a short time. They aren't designed to hold pressure during carbonation- lots of people have mentioned bottle bombs from growlers. I saw a guy have the bottom blow out of his growler right on this forum, during a live Brewcast!

 

[wormraper]

No, growlers are meant to only hold carbonated beer for a short time. They aren't designed to hold pressure during carbonation- lots of people have mentioned bottle bombs from growlers. I saw a guy have the bottom blow out of his growler right on this forum, during a live Brewcast!

well that answers that question. lol, bottles with caps it is then

 

[Kingfish]

ooooo water bath would work. how high should the giant bucket be? should it cover it up to the top of the ale pale? since I've seen that mentioned before on the site anyone know WHERE to get one that would handle an ale pail?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-Rope-Handle-Tub-Blue/19400074

About $10 if I recall correctly.

 

[johnbrain]

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-Rope-Handle-Tub-Blue/19400074

About $10 if I recall correctly.

Just got one at Albertson's for 5.49.

 

[wormraper]

sweet, thanks for the links guys, I've got an albertsons on my way to the bar so I'll check them out first.

 

[oze152]

ahh, feed store, that should work well didn't think of that

off the top of your head do you remember how much it ran you?

I got one at a local feed/farm supply store for about $5.

Also, I would pitch your yeast when the wort is at the low end of the tempature range if you are worried about high temps. WYeast 3068 has a range of 64-75* according to the brochure I have, so chill your wort to 64-66* before pitching the yeast.

 

[wormraper]

I got one at a local feed/farm supply store for about $5.

Also, I would pitch your yeast when the wort is at the low end of the tempature range if you are worried about high temps. WYeast 3068 has a range of 64-75* according to the brochure I have, so chill your wort to 64-66* before pitching the yeast.

thanks I'll keep that in mind. when you pitch the yeast into the wort that's AFTER you've already mixed the boiled stovetop wort with the top off water that makes 5 gallons?

 

[oze152]

thanks I'll keep that in mind. when you pitch the yeast into the wort that's AFTER you've already mixed the boiled stovetop wort with the top off water that makes 5 gallons?

Yes. I cool the boiled wort to about 100* then filter into my carboy and the cold water to make 5 gallons. This usually gets me to about 70* or so depending on how large the boil was compared to how much cold water is used to top off to 5 gallons. I then put the airlock in place until my 5 gallons of wort is at the proper pitch temp, remove the airlock, pitch the yeast, and then replace airlock.

 

[WTexan]

I was having temp problems myself before I converted a old fridge. I took my carboy and put it in my spare bathtub with about a inch of water and draped an old shirt on it. The shirt helped wick up water.
Then I took a couple of pound cake molds filled with water. The open ring will fit rite on top of the carboy and last all day. Plus it helped keep the shirt wet and cool and wet. Just don't forget to replace the ice everyday.

 

[wormraper]

Yes. I cool the boiled wort to about 100* then filter into my carboy and the cold water to make 5 gallons. This usually gets me to about 70* or so depending on how large the boil was compared to how much cold water is used to top off to 5 gallons. I then put the airlock in place until my 5 gallons of wort is at the proper pitch temp, remove the airlock, pitch the yeast, and then replace airlock.

sweet, if I'm putting the ale pail into the water batch to control the temps that should help cool the wort off quicker too.

one LAST question (I hope).... If I do a 2 gallon boil can I do it in a 3 gallon pot or is that too small?? (the recipe calls for a 2 gallon boil so I thought I'd just used the stockpot I have instead of getting a new one JUST yet)

 

[dfaridoni]

I use a a regular cooler large enough to fit the fermentation bucket in, put in some frozen bottles twice a day and keep the temp between 65 and 67 degrees on a constant basis. I live in Central California which gets pretty hot like the Phoenix area and it has worked fine even when the temp gets into the mid 90's. It also keeps the temps pretty constistant which is just as important from what I have seen here and read also. I'm now expert, just fermenting my third batch, but I've been very satisfied with my beer doing it this way

 

[Kingfish]

one LAST question (I hope).... If I do a 2 gallon boil can I do it in a 3 gallon pot or is that too small?? (the recipe calls for a 2 gallon boil so I thought I'd just used the stockpot I have instead of getting a new one JUST yet)

That should be OK. You will want to watch it for boil overs. Be prepared to cut the heat and or give it a spray with some plain water and or stir.

 

[oze152]

That should be OK. You will want to watch it for boil overs. Be prepared to cut the heat and or give it a spray with some plain water and or stir.

+1 With a 3 gallon stockpot you will have to watch it closely at the breaking point to avoid a boil over. After you achieve a rolling boil you should be safe and not have to watch it quite as closely.

 

[wormraper]

+1 With a 3 gallon stockpot you will have to watch it closely at the breaking point to avoid a boil over. After you achieve a rolling boil you should be safe and not have to watch it quite as closely.

gotcha, well I picked up a 5 gallon brew pot from Northern Brewery today so that's on it's way


on a side note. I was thinking. since PBW costs an arm, a leg and part of kidney and I have really hard water here in AZ making oxyclean difficult because of that film... for cleaning the bottles would it be simple enough to use solution of TSP (tri sodium phosphate) for cleaning/label pealing or would that have any ill effects?

 

[oze152]

I am not sure about TSP, but for removing labels from bottles you can use a solution of ammonia (1 cup/5 gallons of cold water). You can also use washing soda (sodium carbonate) in solution (about a quarter to a half cup/5 gallons of water). Both of these can be purchased relatively inexpensively from your local grocery store.

 

[dfaridoni]

I use tsp, on tablespoon per gallon, and it works very well on labels. Leave them soaking for two days seems to work pretty well and it's not that expensive.

 

[wormraper]

I use tsp, on tablespoon per gallon, and it works very well on labels. Leave them soaking for two days seems to work pretty well and it's not that expensive.

sweet, that's what I needed to know, I have 10 million pounds of that stuff floating around for when I did painting stuff so that will come in handy

 

[mhobs126]

A side note on your recipe, I wouldn't add ice to your post boiled wort to cool and bring up to full volume. No ice I know of is bacteria free and I wouldn't risk it.

 

[wormraper]

A side note on your recipe, I wouldn't add ice to your post boiled wort to cool and bring up to full volume. No ice I know of is bacteria free and I wouldn't risk it.

yeah, that was just copy and paste from the recipe, I was just going to sit the wort kettle in an ice bath and then use bottled water to top off to 5 gallons.

 

[tre9er]

Also, a wheat beer yeast can turn out nicely in higher temp ranges. I actually prefer the clove notes I get in the low 80's.

 

[wormraper]

Also, a wheat beer yeast can turn out nicely in higher temp ranges. I actually prefer the clove notes I get in the low 80's.

that's one of the reasons I chose the Hefe, summer in AZ mixed with a swamp cooler for the house means I can go with wheat's and saisons pretty easily