Newbie mead questions

[threeway]

Ok, I've made a batch that was a learning experience. I'm trying again. I racked the first 5 gallons in a keg and am trying again.

Didn't boil honey;
used about 12 lbs of honey
5 gallons must
Added gypsum, yeast nutrient and citric acid
Used wlp730 yeast

Airlock is bubbling at the moment. From reading other recipes and threads on hear it sounds like i shouldn't have water in the airlock yet, and I should be stirring/shaking daily? Then I add water later? I didn't think I was supposed to open this until it was done bubbling?

When I rack to the carboy I should add a clarifier I think? or just wait it out?

My biggest worry is the last time I tried it stopped bubbling after about a week and I expected it to go for longer. The location I put the bucket though is only about 68 degrees which is the low low end of that yeast.

It sounds like next time I should try SNA according to the sticky. So much to learn here.

Thanks!

 

[threeway]

bare with me, still reading:
Just found this:

The time to add an airlock , though, is when the real activity of the fermentation has subsided and the initial gravity reading has dropped to about 1.005. Before that time the yeast will be producing enormous amounts of carbon dioxide (CO2) and that CO2 acts as a blanket to prevent oxidation . Moreover, during the first few days of fermentation your yeast really needs oxygen to help in reproduction. Later oxygen will encourage reproduction at the cost of fermentation


So, I'll dump water out of the air lock, take readings until it's 1.005 and shake it/stir it daily?

 

[threeway]

Other stuff I'm reading here says to not move to secondary fermentor until SG is 1.00. How do you all take that reading? Pop the lid and drop a sanitized hydrometer in? Or pour out the bottom of the bucket to a flask and check?

 

[ACbrewer]

Wow Threeway - lots of questions.

Let's start by saying that there are a lot of ways of doing mead, it just changes how fast you get to product.

The best advice for quicker product right now seems to be that you pitch your yeast and give it a stir to degas the CO2 every 12 hours until you get to 1/2 starting gravity (you probably had an OG of about 1.080 so a mid point of 1.040). The ablity of a cell (be it one of yours or yeast) to get materials into it - sugar, O2, etc is in part a function of the preasure on the cell, so by getting the CO2 out, it helps the yeast by reducing preasure.

Additionally instead of putting in all the nuetrient in the beginning, you put all the nutrient together and then put in 1/4 at the start, 1/4 at 12 hours, 1/4 and 24 hours and the last 1/4 at 1/2 gravity (about 1.040 in our example)

The airlock can be added at the start, although many wine makers (and mead is a type of wine) will only cover, not seal/airlock for the first few days. Just easier to get in and out. I'd definally seal by 1/2 OG, but that is because I will then leave it for days and ignore it until I rack.

Racking - usually a first rack at about 1.005 to 1.000 is good, there is still a little ferment to go (typical finishes are .995 to .990). Rack into a carboy that is the same size as the batch so you fill all the way up to the neck- time to reduce surface area of the mead to air interface. To test gravity, I "go one way" That is, If I've used a bottling bucket for primary, I'll draw some out the tap to fill a test jar and then float the hydrometer. I also typically take out the airlock to avoid 'suck back'. But that is a personal peference. I then drink what I've tested and don't put it back -less risk of contamination.

After the first racking, you want to rack every 60 days, or when you see 1/4 inch of sediement. Which ever is first. As to adding clearifying agents. Depends on the agent. Some are ment to be added at the start (bentonite). Others should be added no latter about 2 to 4 weeks before bottling. It after all needs time to work. Same with stablizing agents if you wish to use them.

 

[threeway]

Thanks for all the answers. I'm starting to get a better feel for the whole process. You are spot on about the first reading at 1.08.

I just ordered a heating belt also. The yeast I'm using likes 72-80 degrees and the best I can do in my house seems to be about 68.

 

[ACbrewer]

Thanks for all the answers. I'm starting to get a better feel for the whole process. You are spot on about the first reading at 1.08.

I just ordered a heating belt also. The yeast I'm using likes 72-80 degrees and the best I can do in my house seems to be about 68.

Don't confuse a 68 degree airtemp for a 68 degree ferment temp. Get an aquarium stickon thermometer. They have lcd that is calibrated for the temp. You may not need the belt. Also if the wort is is a smallish room, you can boost the whole room temp by putting an incandescent lamp on. - typically shown to add about 2 or 3 degrees to air temp.

 

[bernardsmith]

Thanks for all the answers. I'm starting to get a better feel for the whole process. You are spot on about the first reading at 1.08.

I just ordered a heating belt also. The yeast I'm using likes 72-80 degrees and the best I can do in my house seems to be about 68.

Hi Threeway, Your chosen yeast may prefer summer temperatures but mead prefers temperatures that are more autumnal. A slow cool fermentation is the rule of thumb that mazers use. What happens is that when you ferment honey at higher temperatures you get hot tasting chemicals that take months to subside. Ferment at cooler temperatures and your mead will blossom sooner.

 

[threeway]

Temp is 68 on the stick on temp. The last batch I tried with this yeast stalled out at 1.05. It sounds like the light might be the way to go, to just get it ot the low end of the yeasts happy place?

I've read a lot about this yeast lately and it sounds like it is prone to stalling and doesn't like the cold either.

Good times!

Thanks again!

 

[threeway]

Been reading about clarifying.

Would it be dumb to release the pressure on my keg, and add sparkolloid, and repressure it to clarify?

 

[ACbrewer]

Been reading about clarifying.

Would it be dumb to release the pressure on my keg, and add sparkolloid, and repressure it to clarify?

I think I missed when it entered a keg. It should still be in the fermenter until it has finished fermenting. Then move to keg for serving. If it is still fermenting, then it will be hard to clear.

IF it is done fermenting, then adding sparkoid should help it clear.

 

[threeway]

Batch 1: went right to the keg. Batch 2 is around 1.050 SG. Gonna add nutrient and DAP and warm it up if my heating belt ever shows up.

 

[threeway]

Is is silly to use mead from keg, to fill up headspace in second batch when i move it to the car boy? Mead in keg is about 1.041 I was going to wait until mead that is currently fermenting is 1.00 per the pdf in the sticky.