• Please visit and share your knowledge at our sister communities:
  • If you have not, please join our official Homebrewing Facebook Group!

    Homebrewing Facebook Group

Newbie Keezer build questions

Homebrew Talk

Help Support Homebrew Talk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

binaryc0de

Torrence Brewing
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
219
Reaction score
10
Location
Conway
I've been reading a lot of the keezer build threads such as:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-keezer-build-176752/
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/another-keezer-build-jester-rip-off-259905/
and
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/knotty-pine-cedar-log-keezer-build-223902/

I have a question about fans in and out of the freezer. I'm looking at a coffin style build. So I understand the need to circulate cold air up from the keezer into the tap coffin. What about on the outside of the chest freezer to keep it from getting too hot? Is this done and if so does it matter where you mount the fan or fans (is a single computer fan good enough for this)?
 
shouldn't need to worry about a fan on the outside, it's just a chest freezer, still fully functional as such, just needs the fans ontop to blow cold air on the beer lines
 
I built mine along the same lines as Hop's Knotty Pine build. It allows for air space around the freezer to allow the freezer to pull heat out through the skin. I put a couple of PC fans at the back just to help pull that warm air out of the casing of the keezer. Feel free to look at the link in my sig.. I am sure I took pictures of the fans in the back. I run through via my Ranco controller so they only kick on when the compressor is on though.
 
My thread is one of the ones you were referring to. As you can see, I left a 3 1/2" air space around the front and sides, with the back left completely open. I put a decorative vent towards the top in the front and another couple of vents on both sides at the top and one directly where the compressor sits. Where my keezer sits, you can't see the sides, so the vents were fine for me. I also have an air gap between the top of the cabient and the plywood top that is hidden by the horizontal trim pieces. Absolutely no problems with over heating. If you were to go ventless, then you would have to make sure that the back was left fully open and there is an air gap between the top of the cabinet and the plywood top for heat to escape. I tend to be overly cautious, so in that instance, I would most likely wire a couple of fans to circulate the warmer air around and out the back. Others that have used fans on the outside of their keezers can comment on placement. Good luck! :mug:
 
Thanks for the advice. After reading threads I'm eager to start. :) I'm having to calm myself down though to finish reading all the threads and work out all the details.
 
lol.. while I wouldnt normally just flat out disagree with Hop I have to on this one. Plan.. plan and plan some more!! I planned my build until my SWMBO was SICK of seeing sketches and hearing ideas and I still missed little things that I had to redesign on the fly. If you have any questions feel free to ask.. Hop helped me with a lot of questions so I know he will be more than willing to assist too.
 
I was just being a smart a$$....:D Let me know if I can help. Just remember, there's a difference between planning and obsessing. Sometimes you just have to pull the trigger and get things going.....and plan as you go. I've seen several people on HBT plan so much on various projects, then never follow though to completion, because it starts to look like too much work or too much of a time commitment. I do not go into my "projects" completely blind, but I tend to do a hell of a lot of the planning as I go. Now my electric brewery on the other hand, I'm doing a sh*t load of planning on, because this stuff is all new to me. Good luck and get this puppy rolling! :tank:
 
Yeah that's my plan... I'm planning now but once I save up enough of my home brew budget then I'm pulling the trigger. Then plans for an electric brewery are in the works after that.
 
Ok... So Here is what I have built so far (be kind please... Not a wood worker at all and on a budget so this was the best I could do). However, I have another question for anyone that has built one of these... How did you handle the weight of the top? I used granite tiles (maybe not the best choice due to weight). If I had to guess I'd say my top is somewhere around 100-125 lbs. The total weight of that is not coming down fully on the freezer door seal. The external box comes up just enough to ensure a seal without putting excessive compression on seal. However it does make for a rather awkward experience lifting the lid.

One thing is for sure that I will need to limit how far back the top is allowed to open because it starts to tilt the chest freezer back (maybe better when full of beer?). I have toyed with the idea of adding one of those gas pressurized trunk lifts (like on hatch backs or SUVs). Maybe one that at least gives 50-75 lbs of lift. Thoughts?

20111204_185825.jpg
 
Ok... So Here is what I have built so far (be kind please... Not a wood worker at all and on a budget so this was the best I could do). However, I have another question for anyone that has built one of these... How did you handle the weight of the top? I used granite tiles (maybe not the best choice due to weight). If I had to guess I'd say my top is somewhere around 100-125 lbs. The total weight of that is not coming down fully on the freezer door seal. The external box comes up just enough to ensure a seal without putting excessive compression on seal. However it does make for a rather awkward experience lifting the lid.

One thing is for sure that I will need to limit how far back the top is allowed to open because it starts to tilt the chest freezer back (maybe better when full of beer?). I have toyed with the idea of adding one of those gas pressurized trunk lifts (like on hatch backs or SUVs). Maybe one that at least gives 50-75 lbs of lift. Thoughts?

This is exactly why I went with vinyl tiles on mine instead of stone...these things can get freaking heavy!

I know that a lot of people end up putting on dual hinges because the one that come on the freezer aren't meant to handle that much weight.

I would just go into a home improvement store and explain the problem to a knowledgeable employee and see what options he/she can recommend in the way of hinges.

Looks GREAT so far BTW!
 
Thanks for the advice. I was thinking a little on those lines as well (replacing the back hinge). The hinge on the chest freezer is one that is pressurized (which is why I didn't automatically change it out). I had previously thought that maybe the hinge could handle it but I didn't think I would be looking at this much weight originally.
 
I am a former wood worker and I think you did a fine job sir. As to your top choice, is it going to be or is your desire for it to be free floating in the room? If not there are all kinds of options for anchoring it to a wall or floor to deal with the top weight to lower weight ratio.
 
I used tile on mine and it is a B#TCH to lift. And I have the same issue you were describing about lifting to far will cause the freezer to tilt back too. RIght now I just use a 2x4 I had left over from the build to prop the lid up. Just make SURE you prop between the freezer and the lid.. NOT the keezer and the lid. I have plans to build in some permanent supports.. but I have not got around to it yet. Hopefully after I finished my Masters next month I will get time again. On the hinges.. I just used the stock hinges.. they appear to be working fine still.
 
Currently it has 6 wheels (2-2-2 left-center-right). My plan was to be able to roll it around (very infrequently but just have the option). That has kind of bit be in the butt a little as when lifting it tends to roll. Although that is easily fixed by wedging the wheels. The keezer as a whole doesn't want to tilt back just the chest freezer inside as I just have the freezer setting in the 3 sided box. Maybe need to anchor it to the box?
 
The hinges do seem to support the weight fine but I'm just wanting a fix for the over-all job of lifting that heavy top and I wasn't sure if replacing the hinges would help that or if I needed to look into things like pressurized gas lifts and attach 1 to either side of the chest freezer (gluing 2x4 blocks to side of top and freezer to attach).
 
Ok, for your rolling problem, just replace say 2 or 3 of the standard wheels with locking ones. They are more expensive but lock the wheels when you go to open and unlock when going mobile. Without a heavy review of design how about firming up the corners of the inside box with wedges at good strength points like the top 4 corners. Ill go back over the design you followed for a sanity check.
 
Ok... So Here is what I have built so far (be kind please... Not a wood worker at all and on a budget so this was the best I could do). However, I have another question for anyone that has built one of these... How did you handle the weight of the top? I used granite tiles (maybe not the best choice due to weight). If I had to guess I'd say my top is somewhere around 100-125 lbs. The total weight of that is not coming down fully on the freezer door seal. The external box comes up just enough to ensure a seal without putting excessive compression on seal. However it does make for a rather awkward experience lifting the lid.

One thing is for sure that I will need to limit how far back the top is allowed to open because it starts to tilt the chest freezer back (maybe better when full of beer?). I have toyed with the idea of adding one of those gas pressurized trunk lifts (like on hatch backs or SUVs). Maybe one that at least gives 50-75 lbs of lift. Thoughts?


ooh, I know I know: expand the side and put in a small worm drive motor. Hook it up to a IR transceiver so it opens and closes automatically. Then you get a little sound chip from a greeting card and record different sounds that are activated when it opens ( creaking door at halloween, jingle bells at christmas,) then, you put in little tiny nozzles and pump smoke from one of those halloween fog machines, and hang a disco ball inside the lid, and and and..... er;... sorry. but it's time for William_Shakes_beer to get his medications now, please ignore everything here.... nooo, I have another great idea......:off:
 
lol... Funny thing is I started thinking down the path of automated opening options as well.
 
Before I decided to sell mine, I was looking at a linear actuator to automatically open and close the lid. Not very expensive, lift a LOT of weight, and would be completely bada$$ :D
 
Wait, Jester, you sold your incredible, inspirational masterpiece? Easing up on the home drinking/brewing I guess?
 
ooh, I know I know: expand the side and put in a small worm drive motor. Hook it up to a IR transceiver so it opens and closes automatically. Then you get a little sound chip from a greeting card and record different sounds that are activated when it opens ( creaking door at halloween, jingle bells at christmas,) then, you put in little tiny nozzles and pump smoke from one of those halloween fog machines, and hang a disco ball inside the lid, and and and..... er;... sorry. but it's time for William_Shakes_beer to get his medications now, please ignore everything here.... nooo, I have another great idea......:off:

Just when I thought I was done with mine......
 
It's been a while since I've been on HBT and just getting back up to speed. The build looks fantastic! For "not being a woodworker" the build is amazing. I just wanted to chime in about your "heavy top blues", which most of us guys with coffin keezers have had to deal with. I swapped the two front casters for locking ones to prevent rolling when opening. I also added safety straps on mine to prevent my ridiculously heavy coffin top from ripping off my hinges and it has been the best thing that I could have done. You just need to make sure the straps are very secure from the cabinet framing to the undersurface of the actual top. It obviously doesn't help with the lifting, but it's great to not have to use something to prop it open to prevent being decapitated. :drunk: There are pics on my thread, but at this point I'll be damned if I know what page they are on.

Make sure the straps are just long enough to get the lid slightly beyond it's natural balancing point (center of mass) and it won't torque the hinges and most importantly won't fall forward on you!

Hey Jester, we talked about the linear actuator thing before and I looked very seriously at them, because they would be perfect for my set-up. As I recall, they weren't ridiculously expensive.....something like $100 apiece. Is it possible to use two actuators on one control, so that they are at the exact same travel velocity to prevent binding the hinges. I'm afraid that although one actuator could handle the load, installing it on one side would twist the top and ruin the hinges. Any thoughts?
 
Hey Jester, we talked about the linear actuator thing before and I looked very seriously at them, because they would be perfect for my set-up. As I recall, they weren't ridiculously expensive.....something like $100 apiece. Is it possible to use two actuators on one control, so that they are at the exact same travel velocity to prevent binding the hinges. I'm afraid that although one actuator could handle the load, installing it on one side would twist the top and ruin the hinges. Any thoughts?

I dunno - when I opened mine, I always lifted it just from one corner. Never even thought about torsion load on the hinges, but it certainly didn't show any adverse effects.
 
Thanks. I think I have made it work by adding two pressurized lifts. It seemed to cut the weight of lifting in half. I also added a hinge prop (on the side) that holds the top in place while I work on the inside of the keezer.

20111210_124950.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top