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winter999

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First, hi all! I'm glad to join this fine group of beer lovers. I've come home!

Now, to questions. I am just polishing off my first keg of homebrew and need some advice before starting number 2.

1) Can I store my CO2 in the fridge? I heard that this could cause overcarbonation.

2) Once I force carbonate and get pressure equalibrium, do I still need to keep the CO2 on?

3) My next beer is coming from a malt extract. It says just add water, but I read that its better to boil 45 minutes. Opinions?

4) Once I move my beer to a clearing carboy, how long can I leave it there before kegging?

5) After I force carbonate (at room temperature), can I immediately refridge it or should I leave it for some days at room temp.?

6) Once in the fridge, will carbonation levels stay the same, or drop off because of the cooler temp?

Enough for now (I need a beer).
CHEERS!
 
winter999 said:
First, hi all! I'm glad to join this fine group of beer lovers. I've come home!

Now, to questions. I am just polishing off my first keg of homebrew and need some advice before starting number 2.

1) Can I store my CO2 in the fridge? I heard that this could cause overcarbonation.

There is no problem storing CO2 in the Fridge...Things will be fine.

2) Once I force carbonate and get pressure equalibrium, do I still need to keep the CO2 on?

Yes you need to leave the CO2 on. As teh head space become larger due to drinking your brew, you will need to take up the extra space. Otherwise the CO2 will eqaulize to a new pressure and CO2 will come out of your beer

3) My next beer is coming from a malt extract. It says just add water, but I read that its better to boil 45 minutes. Opinions?

Don't Know!

4) Once I move my beer to a clearing carboy, how long can I leave it there before kegging?

As long as you want. I've left some beer in for three months. Just make sure no air gets in and the airlock is full of water.

5) After I force carbonate (at room temperature), can I immediately refridge it or should I leave it for some days at room temp.?

You should force carbonate in the Fridge. Cooler beer will absorb more CO2 than a warmer beer.

6) Once in the fridge, will carbonation levels stay the same, or drop off because of the cooler temp?

The PSI will drop due to more beer absorbed into the beer from the headspace.

Enough for now (I need a beer).
CHEERS!

Please see above
 
Igorstien said:
2) Once I force carbonate and get pressure equalibrium, do I still need to keep the CO2 on?

Yes you need to leave the CO2 on. As teh head space become larger due to drinking your brew, you will need to take up the extra space. Otherwise the CO2 will eqaulize to a new pressure and CO2 will come out of your beer

I've always turned he gas off with the caveat that after a session, I always made sure the conies were back up to pressure.

I've had a poppets stick or some other small leak problem case me to lose all of the CO2 in a day. Won't go through that hassle again.

I've seen others argue as Igorstien has.... Comments anyone?
 
olllllo said:
I've always turned he gas off with the caveat that after a session, I always made sure the conies were back up to pressure.

I've had a poppets stick or some other small leak problem case me to lose all of the CO2 in a day. Won't go through that hassle again.

I've seen others argue as Igorstien has.... Comments anyone?


I always pressurize to full after a session then turn the gas off in case of leaks. Always has worked fine and have never had issues. CO2 lasts long time that way. Also I check daily to ensure no head space by shaking the beer and adding more if needed.

No issues for over 15 years.

- WW:D
 
winter999 said:
3) My next beer is coming from a malt extract. It says just add water, but I read that its better to boil 45 minutes. Opinions?

I assume this is a pre-hopped kit. Boiling a pre-hopped kit may increase the hop bitterness. If you're worried about the water being sanitary you can just boil the water for 10~15 mins. Or just use bottled water (the gallon jugs).
 
Another vote for leaving the main gas valve closed. It's the only guaranteed leak free connection in your system. If you leave your gas lines connected and any shut-off valves (not the main tank valve) open, you can use your low pressure gage on your regulator to see what the pressure is in your kegs. When the pressure drops a couple of PSI, open the main tank valve for a minute and let everything charge back up, then close the valve again. This will definitely make the most of your CO2 supply.
 
I just found a small leak in my relief valve on my lid. It slow leaks and then sticks. I guess it's time to replace it (or remove, clean, try again? In other words, is it salvagable or junk?)

:mug:
 
winter999 said:
I just found a small leak in my relief valve on my lid. It slow leaks and then sticks. I guess it's time to replace it (or remove, clean, try again? In other words, is it salvagable or junk?)

:mug:

Remove the relief valve by unscrewing it from the lid. Make sure that the rubber seal on the end of it is intact and clean. Also, insure that the relief valve seat in the lid is clean and free of any burrs or defects. If everything looks OK then put a little keg lube on the seal and reinstall it. The keg lube with help with any rubber seals on a keg too. I have many kegs, and have never had to replace a relief valve.

John
 
I keep my CO2 on and int the fridge never had a problem I clean and inspect my kegs everytime I empty one I keep O rings and rebuilding supplies on hand and change out any questionable parts.
 
I keep my CO2 on, even though I probably have a very small leak. I have a cornie of soda water and I run through it in about 10 days, so shutting the valve off isn't an option. When I only had ale on tap, I'd shut it off.

I actually purchased a relief valve, but it turned out cleaning & lubing took care of the problem. So, now I have a spare. I might have to use it on a keg that tends to relieve at about 15 psi.
 
i leave my co2 on. BUT - i took careful pains of fixing any leaks. i feel that turning it off and on is just a bandaid, and really you should look through your system to make sure it doesn't leak.if there is a leak, it will continue to leak, regardless if the tank is on or off, and that pessure will escape from the kegs, and if you leave it off for too long, it is possible it will drop the carbonation of the beer. fix any leaks beforehand, it will save you a lot of trouble in the future.
 
Cold beer does not absorb MORE co2, it just absorbs faster and requires less pressure to absorb the same vol of CO2.

You should boil your extract. Yhis kills any bacteria hiding in it and you will need to boil the hops anyway.

And some people age their barleywines etc in the carboy for years. Just make sure it's off the trub and kept at celler temp or lower.
 
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