New to kegging - need a little advice.

[DJL531]

I have put this off for a long time, but as luck would have it a co-worker that no longer brews said I could have his kegs and such. He set me up with everything I need, I think.

I have:
6 - 2.5 gallon ball lock kegs
A dual regulator
5lb CO2 bottle (about 18" tall)
party tap and ball lock connectors with hoses.
Hoses will be replaced. These have been out in his shed for a decade or more.

Questions:
Do CO2 bottles expire like propane bottles?
Clean the kegs with anything special?
I know I need keg lube and probably replacements for all the gaskets.
Should I pressure test the empty kegs?
A special tool to remove the ball locks on the keg?

I plan to keg my first beer in 2-2.5 weeks.

Thanks

 

[Golddiggie]

CO2 bottles are stamped/marked for inspection. Most will simply swap them out for filled tanks, so don't worry about it. Find either a LHBS that does the swap, or a gas supplier in your area that offers beverage grade CO2 (aluminum tanks are preferred). With the tank being at least a decade old, you'll be swapping it out. Most sources don't care about the date stamp on them as long as they look good.

Hot PBW will clean the kegs. If there's stuff inside that looks really caked on, plan to let them soak for a while.

Always pressure test any used kegs, or after changing o-rings to make sure you did them correctly. I typically use 10-15psi for the test. Also you want the keg empty so that no gas goes into any liquid during the test.
Ball lock posts use a standard wrench. I don't recall the size, but it's not something weird. Standard (as in NOT farking metric) works.

Is the regulator one with just two gauges or a dual body? If just the two gauges, then it's a single body and will be fine. If a dual body, it will be unstable with a 5# bottle. You'll want to do something to negate the risk of it tipping over on you.

I'd advise getting a gauge cage for the regulator if it doesn't already have one. They simply secure via the threaded hole in the back of the body and it's done.

If it's secured with worm clamps, get oetiker clamps (most online suppliers carry them). The 15 (or 15.5, I forget which) size works well for the 9/16" OD gas lines. Beer lines (7/16" OD) use the 13.3 size clamps. I had enough leaks with the worm clamps when I started kegging that made me switch to the oetiker clamps. I've had zero leaks at the hose ends since making that change.

 

[VikeMan]

Do CO2 bottles expire like propane bottles?

When they are past their test date (5 years), they have to be retested before they can be refilled. But that doesn't mean you can't still use the CO2 in the tank you inherited.

Clean the kegs with anything special?

I use PBW, sometimes with a drill actuated "flappers on a stick" cleaning tool. But with 2.5 gallon kegs, you can probably reach the bottom with a cleaning cloth without any problem.

I know I need keg lube and probably replacements for all the gaskets.

Definitely replace the O-Rings. I replace mine every batch, but most people don't. I also don't use keg lube. It helps prevent tearing O-Rings, but since I replace them so often, I've never had one tear/wear out anyway. Some people think keg lube is for sealing kegs that otherwise won't seal, but it doesn't really do that.

Should I pressure test the empty kegs?

I would make sure they will maintain pressure before trusting them with beer.

A special tool to remove the ball locks on the keg?

Socket wrench. And depending on your kegs, your ball lock posts might need either a 7/8" 12-point deep socket or an 11/16" standard socket.

 

[DJL531]

Yep, the second post looks like a sprocket. I never thought of a 12pt socket set.

Also from an earlier reply, this bottle must be ancient. Not AL and weights 10 pounds empty. Guessing at the weight but heavier than a bag of rocks.


Socket wrench. And depending on your kegs, your ball lock posts might need either a 7/8" 12-point deep socket or an 11/16" standard socket.
[/QUOTE]

 

[Homebrew Harry]

I have put this off for a long time, but as luck would have it a co-worker that no longer brews said I could have his kegs and such. He set me up with everything I need, I think.

I have:
6 - 2.5 gallon ball lock kegs
A dual regulator
5lb CO2 bottle (about 18" tall)
party tap and ball lock connectors with hoses.
Hoses will be replaced. These have been out in his shed for a decade or more.

Questions:
Do CO2 bottles expire like propane bottles?
Clean the kegs with anything special?
I know I need keg lube and probably replacements for all the gaskets.
Should I pressure test the empty kegs?
A special tool to remove the ball locks on the keg?

I plan to keg my first beer in 2-2.5 weeks.

Thanks

That is a nice score. Good for you !
Good advice so far^.The only thing I can add is that if you have a fire extinguisher company nearby, they fill and trade tanks and are not too picky about the age and dates.

 

[Golddiggie]

12 point is common for wrenches. Easy to get from a range of stores, either local or online.

Sounds like you have a steel tank. Provided there's no sign of rust on the outside you could (probably/maybe) get it filled. But, if you have a HBS near you that does tank swaps, just go there. The LHBS I go to only offers aluminum tanks. IIRC, they don't care if you bring in a steel tank, you'll get an aluminum one to go home with. Added bonus is the LHBS has better hours than the welding gas suppliers in my area. Where the weight of a 5# tank isn't much different between the two materials, once you get into the 10# and larger, that changes. There's no way I'd want to deal with a steel 20# tank (I have both a 10# and 20# tank).

 

[DJL531]

That is a nice score. Good for you !
Good advice so far^.The only thing I can add is that if you have a fire extinguisher company nearby, they fill and trade tanks and are not too picky about the age and dates.

Luckily we do have one about 10 minutes away and the local home brew shop refills when they can. Going see them this weekend.

 

[Knightshade]

Awesome hookup!!

+1 on the tank swaps, and they'll be able to tell you right away whether it is in good condition or whatever. If a relationship isn't already established, good way to do so maybe.

17mm box wrench works too. I use it to remove/secure all the posts on my ball lock kegs. I usually crank them down to the stop, then back them off a little bit. Assuming your o-rings are good, this should provide a good enough seal w/o completely crushing/ruining them.

 

[Brewdog80]

12 point socket isnt as common as they used to be. I bought one at home depot 7/8 fits the 12 point fitting and the beer side also. Heck even harbor freight only sells 6 point sockets.
if a decade old, you need to replace those internal poppets and the inner tube orings, And the outer orings and the lid oring. sets available, I found them on Amazon, ebay and some at my LHBS. Poppets can be different. Also, depending on the keg lid, you should replace the relief valve. I had one lid that has an all plastic valve and valve fitting through the lid. Those are obsolete and I'll have to replace full lid. If really dirtly inside, make sure you remove tubes and clean inside tube. I found long brush for the yeti straws. worked well
Don't scrimp on replacing all this. CO2 isnt cheap