Need Help with Natural Gas Line

[Doc Robinson]

Propane is too expensive. I want to run natural gas to my garage. On the other side of this wall is the garage. It seems that all I would need to do is:

1) Shut of the main
2) Disconnect one of the outs
3) Install a brass T
4) Attach a shutoff valve to the T and connect flex tubing
5) Run the flex tubing through the wall and out to the garage

Does that sound about right?

 

[Brewers Hardware]

I have never seen so many gas lines in a house. Not to mention what look like flexible lines. Not that I'm an expert, but I'd consult one in your case.

 

[Skins_Brew]

Yea I would maybe get in touch with a gasfitter. There are certain regulations for the flex gas lines which you may be violating. I know some regulations are dumb, but they are there to keep your house from exploding.

I have never seen so many gas lines in a house.

I count five gas lines. Could be for a Water heater, furnace, stove, dryer and a gas log.

 

[marzsit]

looks pretty normal to me, the main line coming in from the meter is on the left, with it's own shutoff. then there is a regulator that appears to be properly grounded, and then 4 distribution lines with individual shutoffs (my guess is water heater, central heating furnace, kitchen range and gas fireplace insert/outdoor gas grill/etc..) this type of flexible gas piping is called CSST (corrugated stainless steel tubing) and is very common in new construction.

the problem with CSST is that it can only be sold to professionals who have been properly trained and certified, it can't be sold to homeowners like you and me...

 

[TommyBoy]

Those flexible lines are the way to go if you have the cash. One connection at the beginning and one at the end. No multiple joints. They are more expensive but if you have the cash and means are a good idea. If you have a leak you don't have to go ripping through you walls. With those there are no right angles to restrict the flow. I have seen it done with water but that is the first time I have seen it in gas. You must have a new house.

 

[OLDBREW]

The one thing you need to know is what the demand is for the whole house in CF.
That regulator there after the main shut off tells you that you have higher then normal pressure supplying your house. The orifice in there, regulates the pressure to the secondary side of the regulator which is normally around .5lb (psi) for nat gas.

The secondary side is usually calculated by volume, so that manifold and zoned branches might not have enough volume to handle another appliance at the same time.

Two ways to get around this would be to hook it up the way you are thinking of on an equally demanding zone,

You would remove the existing gas valve and nipple below it.
then use a longer black iron nipple from the manifold up to get clearance above the other valves.

Then install a black iron tee, install your existing gas valve to the top of the tee, and a new gas valve on the side out of the tee for the garage run.

You could just use more black iron fittings and nipples to go through the garage wall from inside then put a shut off and quick connect adapter out in the garage like they use on air tools for the burner hookup.

You want at least 4 full wraps of teflon tape for all pipe joint fitting connections.

To use you just shut off the valve for that other appliance, and open up the garage valve while you are using the burner in the garage.

Or The second way would be to get another nat gas regulator calculated to handle your draw. You then put a tee in between the main shut off, and the first regulator. Then you would install the new regulator out of the tee, then a gas shut off valve, then your new gas line going to the garage would attach to that. That way you could use everything at once.

 

[Marsdude]

Although I am new at brewing, I have a lot of experience in this type of thing.

"OLDBREW" has a lot of good advice and I would suggest he review what I am about to suggest.

If you use a line that feeds something like a kitchen stove then you do not have to worry about volume as long as you are not using both your burner and the stove at the same time.This could also work with a furnace as long as you have the heat turned down so the furnace would not come on while you are using your burner.

I wonder about the possibility of just adding a T to the line that seems to do a 90 off of the manifold and comes out toward the left. That is IF you can get the fittings. You would need to put a ball valve rated for gas on this. If you can't get flex you could run black pipe, harder to work with but you can get it at HD.

One important thing - if you do this yourself - make a solution of soapy water (dish soap is fine) in a spray bottle. After you have everything together spray this on all of your joints with the line under pressure and look for bubbles. This will tell you if you have any leaks.

 

[OLDBREW]

yes, that is what i was saying about his first work around, but raising that appliance valve up and putting the tee before the shut offs, so you can shut off the appliance feed that your stealing from, so no one can use it while you are using the garage feed.

BTW the adapter fittings that the valves have on them to connect those flex lines are gas adapter fittings.

Big box stores have coated flexible gas line for hot water heaters that have the NPT to gas adapters and the flex line all in one package.

 

[Doc Robinson]

Awesome info OLDBREW. Thank you so much.

 

[flyguy340]

Most likely your regulator is more then adequate for your volume needed. Do a google search for your make/model of regulator and you should be able to find what the BTU output is. I have a similar setup, 2PSI gas from the gas meter then its reduced to roughly .5PSI and then manifolded to furnace, water heater, etc. One thing to consider with the reduced pressure natural gas (roughly .5PSI) is pipe diameter, pipe distance, type of pipe (steel,CSST, copper) and BTU load- again search online and you'll find some tables for that.

 

[OLDBREW]

yes 1/2 lb the . before the 5lb didn't take, I guess I didnt press hard enough should read .5lb per square inch. I'll edit that

Without knowing the total demand of the house, there is no way of knowing if the manifold itself is large enough in volume to carry the all branch runs. My primary side of the regulator is 10 psi then drops to .5 lbs

 

[Hawgbranch]

If you use a line that feeds something like a kitchen stove then you do not have to worry about volume as long as you are not using both your burner and the stove at the same time.This could also work with a furnace as long as you have the heat turned down so the furnace would not come on while you are using your burner.

Does the size of the line and the distance from the meter make a difference? My home has 1/2" gas lines and where I would like to hook up to my brewrig is a long way from the meter.
There are multiple heaters, a stove and an oven using this line in my home. But, they will NOT be in use while brewing.
I want to buy 3 of the 23 tip wok burners for my rig but I need to make sure I have the Natural Gas capacity before purchasing the burners.

Thanks!

 

[EarthBound]

Does the size of the line and the distance from the meter make a difference? My home has 1/2" gas lines and where I would like to hook up to my brewrig is a long way from the meter.
There are multiple heaters, a stove and an oven using this line in my home. But, they will NOT be in use while brewing.
I want to buy 3 of the 23 tip wok burners for my rig but I need to make sure I have the Natural Gas capacity before purchasing the burners.

Thanks!

Yes, it does. Mine is long way, as well. I bought 3 of those burners (from CPAP) that I look forward to using. Since you're NOT using the other appliances during brewing, you should have an easy time. Just do it the way OLDBREWER said using the shutoff valves before/after brewing.

What I was instructed to do (by the Regional Building Department) was kinda mentioned already on this thread: Add up all the BTUs of all the appliances in the house (esp. the furnace!) and compare that to the regulator's BTUs. I was told that I may have to stem off from outside, where the meter is, instead of stemming off from inside the crawl space. I'm new to this sort of thing, but I know I can do it all myself, then have it inspected by the RBD, so this thread will be a valuable resource for me if everyone chimes in with their experiences.

 

[Hawgbranch]

Yeah, I am afraid I may require a direct line from the meter as well.
My gas line enters my home on the complete opposite end of the house from my brewshed. It then traverses my attic in a 1/2" line. I would be tapping into that line in the attic and extending it about 30' into my brewshed.
Even though I plan to have 3, 23 tip burners I can't forsee a moment when all 3 would be used simultaneously. And, by the time I am bringing the BK to boil, I won't be using the other 2 burners.
I have a call in to my gas company for information on our pressure.
I will continue to post any and all info here Earthbound.
Thanks for the info!