Need help with Monster Mill 2 2.0

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I just set up my MM2 and hooked up my cordless Dewlat drill to it. I don't intend to use the cordless permenantly. I can see the roller moving but when I add grain, the roller stops moving. This is just 2 row grain. I upped the speed of the drill with no success. Best I can tell, the shaft stops turning and no matter how I tighten the drill, it stops turning the roller when grain is dumped in. I was testing about an ounce at a time.

I checked to be sure the chuck teeth were on the flat ends of the shaft to avoid slipping and there's no damage or wear on the shaft thus far. I haven't messed with gaps because MM says to use it at factory first, which I am.

I feel this is obvious, but I'm missing it big time.
 
Is the drill stopping? Or is it slipping and the drill goes but the and the mill stops?
I think you mean the former which means it doesn't have enough torque, you need a stronger drive method.:D
 
There should be a little ∞ symbol on the torque adjustment. You should also be able to keep the speed very low with a Dewalt and I have the same mill and go through a lot of grain with my 18v. I can usually get through 30 lbs on a single charge. It does take a lot for the cordless but it does work.

If the shaft turns and the roller doesn't, you have a totally different problem.
 
The shaft doesn't turn with grain in the mill. If I don't put grain in it, the rollers and shaft turn freely.

I'll see if I can adjust things and see if that symbol is on the drill.
 
Oh and I just stuck the batter back on and will try with a fresh battery. This should work, at least I thought it would. I appreciate the help.
 
that drill should get the job done IMHO.

Im curious how your mill is adjusted - is it too tight possibly? if so, would really increase power demand to mill your grain.

Also - is you mill set up completely square? If it's not aligned/mounted properly, this can cause issues.

The adjustment on drill probably has a a little drill bit looking logo which locks the clutch out giving full torque. This is where you want it to be. Make sure you drill is set to low gear and turns slower when squeezing the trigger all the way.
 
Let's see...I assume lowest setting is 1. I also adjusted the "transmission" to the lowest. The drill has a three setting transmission on the top.

I guess the mill isn't too tight. I kind of don't know. I can turn it by hand if that matters but I don't have an actual crank arm. I'm convinced this is user error, I just need to understand it. :eek:
 
Okay. Fresh battery, turned the "thing" to the drill bit image (I wish I knew what to call it) left the "transmission" on 1 and clutch at 1 and got a crush. It kicked back at me though so I assume that's why I should place the drill on the mounting board so it doesn't kick back in my hand. Or should that simply not happen?

Here's my crush.
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1417319916.277446.jpg
 
1 might be the softest setting, I would think it should go to 20? Followed by another symbol, infinity or a drill set it to that.


So I want 20 and not 1? I don't see an infinity symbol, oddly. I have been drinking. :p
 
Kick back would not be unheard of. It does take quite a bit of torque to run the grain thru. I know with my MM2 I have to hold the mill down with one hand and brace the drill against my leg to keep everything steady.
 
1 is the weakest clutch setting. go the other direction - rotate until it's lined up on the drill looking symbol right next to the hammer looking symbol.

As for drill speed, there should be an adjustment on the very top of your drill. Check each one of those by squeezing the trigger fully. You want the selection that makes the drill turn the slowest with the trigger fully squeezed.


Go to the auto parts store tomorrow and get yourself a set of feeler gauges. They are little flaps of metal with different thicknesses. This will allow you to determine how far apart your rollers are. Let the salesman know you need to measure a distance in the range of 30 thousandth's (of an inch) AKA 30 mils. You'll want to set your mill to about 34 mils (34 thousandths of an inch) to get you in the ball park. From there, you will be able to run a handful of grain through at a time and adjust the mill until you like the LOOK of the crush. You'll need to brew at the setting from there to determine if lautering is acceptable.


PLEASE BE CAREFUL running that drill - the mill can "jump" if it's not stable. That drill is powerful enough to make the whole fly and possibly cause injury.

good luck and keep the questions coming. it's confusing at first but you'll look back and think it's easy soon enough


edit: looks like my warning was a little late haha. glad you got your mill working. crush looks pretty darn good for starters
 
So I want 20 and not 1? I don't see an infinity symbol, oddly. I have been drinking. :p

There should be a couple of settings that have to be set correctly. The first one would be the clutch. That is the ring near the chuck with numbers 1 to 21 and the drill symbol. Set it to the drill symbol so you will get 100% drive and no slipping under a load. The next thing would be the speed setting. For milling you want the slowest speed, which I would assume would be 1, as in 1st gear. This will deliver the most torque and allow it to power through the milling. My drill has 20 settings on the clutch and 2 speeds.
 
So I want 20 and not 1? I don't see an infinity symbol, oddly. I have been drinking. :p

Did you not read the owners manual? Do not operate tools while drinking;)
The drill image means the transmission is locked, that what you want, crush looks like it could be tightened up a bit, check out conditioning the grain, too drunk to find you a link:mug:
 
Just a thought, with that big mill, it may be wise to set the torque setting just tight enough to spin the mill, yet loose enough to spin free if it locks up or kicks hard.

Be extra careful if you use the trigger lock...I have had a 1/2" drill start spinning when the mill ate what I believe may have been a small stone, luckily the drill wound itself up in the cord and freed itself from the outlet.


Wilserbrewer
Http://biabbags.webs.com/
 
Did you not read the owners manual? Do not operate tools while drinking;)
The drill image means the transmission is locked, that what you want, crush looks like it could be tightened up a bit, check out conditioning the grain, too drunk to find you a link:mug:

I've read about conditioning grain. I can adjust the gap form .45 to whatever. I may lower it down.

I think I may have this a little better now. This is fantastic and thank you all very much. I'll mill tomorrow and brew. I'm much more excited now. You all are great. Even ChefRex who thinks (and is right) I need a good drill. ;) :p
 
Glad you get my humor :D

What ya brewing?
Oh, I thought that was an offer. :D I kid, I kid.
My jolly holly ale. It's basically the holly ale recipe posted here with a little more added to it. I'm pretty excited to mill my own grain.
 
With the help of you all, milling worked out very well. I'm pretty stoked to just enhance my process and geekdom with the addition of milling my own grain. Thank you all very much.
 
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