Need Help with an IPA extract recipe.

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eon

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Hey all. I am looking for a good IPA or IIPA extract recipe. I can also do extract/steeping.

I am looking to make a beer that has a super fruity/grapefruit aroma and a super hoppy grapefruit flavor. I love hoppy beers.

I love beers such as:

Three floyds Dreadnaught
Founders Harvest Ale
Bell's Hopslam
Dogfish head 90 minute IPA
Southern Tier Unearthly

Just take a look at this description for Founders Harvest Ale:

"First sip of this beer rewards with a super juicy hop presence bursting with fresh orange and lemon citrus then continues to introduce toasted malt undertones."

I guess I am shooting for something close to Dreadnaught. I'll take whatever I can get. Not necessarily looking for an exact clone (although that's fine). Just looking for a delicious beer with the characteristics that I explained above.

I would greatly appreciate any help. Thanks for your time.
 

frazier

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I'm not the IPA expert by any means, but ...

If it's a certain flavor you're looking for, the hop choice will be critical. I recently did an IPA using Centennial, Amarillo, and Cascade - the grapefruit punch is awesome.
 

Slipgate

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Whatever recipe you decide to use, try dry-hopping with 2oz of leaf Amarillo hops in the secondary for about a week. It will add that grapefruitiness that you desire.
 
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eon

eon

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Thanks for the tip Slipgate. The Dreadnaught clone says to dry hop with 2 oz. of Cascade. Do you think Amarillo would be better?
 

Slipgate

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Thanks for the tip Slipgate. The Dreadnaught clone says to dry hop with 2 oz. of Cascade. Do you think Amarillo would be better?
Since I've been using the amarillo, nothing dry hops like it. I think Amarillo is the best dry-hopping hops that I have ever used. I tried 3 oz for a 5 gallon batch once and it was like biting into a grapefruit! Those extreme effects wore off after about 3 weeks and it was a great IPA after that. But I use just 2 oz now per 5 gallons.
 
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eon

eon

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Thanks jmkratt! I think I am going to follow the hop schedule on the Dreadnaught clone but I still need to figure out a way to do this with extract. Unfortunately, that clone is an all grain.
 
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eon

eon

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Yeah slipgate sounds good! I think I'm gonna follow the Dreadnaught Hop schedule but take your advice on the dry hopping and go with the amarillo.
 
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eon

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Anyone ever try Ahtanum hops? I am wondering If I should substitute them for cascade. I have read that Ahtanum hops are super citrusy and grapefruity more so than cascade and also have a lower alpha acid making them less bitter than cascade. Sounds nice in theory but who knows?! maybe I can use both cascade and Ahtanum? Decisions, decisions!
 

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I've only used ahtanum hops once, for an APA like Stone's. It was nice, but I wouldn't say it's as citrusy as cascade or amarillo.

If you want a very grapefruity hops flavor, try a mix of simcoe and amarillo. I do that in my DFH 60 minute clone, and it's awesome. I love simcoe and amarillo together, as flavor, aroma and dryhopping hops.
 
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eon

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Ok, so here is what I'm gonna go with:

18 lbs. - 2 Row Pale Malt
1.25 lbs. - Melanoidin Malt

Hop Schedule (100 IBU)

1 oz. - Simcoe (60 min.)
3/4 oz. - Warrior (60 min.)
1/2 oz. - Centennial (30 min.)
1/2 oz. - Centennial (45 min.)
1/2 oz. - Centennial (30 min.)
1/2 oz. - Centennial (flameout)
1 oz. - Cascade (20 min.)
2 oz. - Amarillo (Dry Hop)

Yeast

White Labs English Ale (WLP002) - 1800 ml starter

I just have a few more questions:

1.) What does "Flameout" mean? Does it mean that I throw in the centennial hops at 00 minutes left in the boil? So i turn off the heat and throw them in? Also, where it says "Cascade 20 minutes", does that mean After the flame is off I throw those in for 20 minutes? I am kind of confused.

2.) Can somebody help me convert this to extract? I can also steep specialty grains. Is there a default way to convert from all grain to extract? I am new to brewing so this is all foreign to me!

3.) Has anyone ever used the WLP002 yeast before? Should I use the White Labs California yeast. Would that be more suitable for this type of beer?

4.) This note is included in the recipe: "You REALLY need to do a big starter or even make a smaller beer and use the whole yeast cake for this one. The yeast is going to have a rough time attenuating.
In addition, provide plenty of oxygen in the wort when pitching."

I have never made a starter let alone a really BIG starter. Can somebody tell me how to do this or how to make a "smaller beer" so that my fermentation goes well.

Also, what do they mean by providing plenty of oxygen? Usually I pour the wort back and forth from the brew pot to the fermenting bucket a few times. would this be enough for this beer or do they want me to do something else?

Thanks for your help in advance!
 

Slipgate

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1.) What does "Flameout" mean? Does it mean that I throw in the centennial hops at 00 minutes left in the boil? So i turn off the heat and throw them in? Also, where it says "Cascade 20 minutes", does that mean After the flame is off I throw those in for 20 minutes? I am kind of confused.

Yes, it means when you turn off the burner. "Cascade at 20 minutes" means when you are 20 into the boil, add it.

2.) Can somebody help me convert this to extract? I can also steep specialty grains. Is there a default way to convert from all grain to extract? I am new to brewing so this is all foreign to me!

Not sure, I don't do all-grain.

3.) Has anyone ever used the WLP002 yeast before? Should I use the White Labs California yeast. Would that be more suitable for this type of beer?

I use the white labs cal ale yeast for my IPA

4.) This note is included in the recipe: "You REALLY need to do a big starter or even make a smaller beer and use the whole yeast cake for this one. The yeast is going to have a rough time attenuating.
In addition, provide plenty of oxygen in the wort when pitching."

I have never made a starter let alone a really BIG starter. Can somebody tell me how to do this or how to make a "smaller beer" so that my fermentation goes well.

Also, what do they mean by providing plenty of oxygen? Usually I pour the wort back and forth from the brew pot to the fermenting bucket a few times. would this be enough for this beer or do they want me to do something else?

Thanks for your help in advance![/QUOTE]

I've never done a starter and it has never mattered. It gives you a much higher cell count for your yeast when pitching it. There are lots of resources on how to do this - basically pitch your yeast in a sugar solution to let it start multiplying.

For oxygen, I just close my fermenter and shake it for 2-3 minutes (slide it back and forth on the counter).

Here is my recipe for IPA, it kicks major booty and is the BEST IPA that I have ever had.

6lbs NW Gold LME
1 lb Gold DME
.75 lb vienna malt crushed grain
.25 lb biscuit malt
1 oz warrior hops - 10 min
1 oz chinook hops - 20 min
1 oz amarillo hops - 45 min
2 oz amarillio hops - dry hopping

Good Luck!
 

Yooper

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1.) What does "Flameout" mean? Does it mean that I throw in the centennial hops at 00 minutes left in the boil? So i turn off the heat and throw them in? Also, where it says "Cascade 20 minutes", does that mean After the flame is off I throw those in for 20 minutes? I am kind of confused.

Yes, it means when you turn off the burner. "Cascade at 20 minutes" means when you are 20 into the boil, add it.
No! That's exactly opposite! "Cascade at 20 minutes" means you add it when there is 20 minutes left! The minutes after the name means how long the hops are boiled. Not how long the boil has already gone!

The recipes (for example) go like this:

Centennial 60 minutes
Cascade 5 minutes
Simcoe flame out

You set the timer for 60 minutes when you add the first hops. Then, when you have 5 minutes left in the boil, add the cascade. When you turn off the flame, add the simcoe.

The hopping schedule in the recipe above is backwards or something. No way would you do warrior for 10 minutes.

Anyway, you need a starter with most recipes using liquid yeast. Underpitching is one of the main causes of underattenuated beers, as well as some off-flavors. Just like you add the right amount of hops, you want to add the right amount of yeast.

Converting AG to extract is pretty straightforward, but it's easier if you have some brewing software (Beersmith has a free trial, and there are free programs online). Generally, though, you keep all the specialty grains for steeping, and just sub extract for the base malt.

A good rule of thumb is 1 pound 2-row = .75 pound light/pale LME = .6 pound light DME.
 

Yooper

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I just looked closer at your recipe. 18 POUNDS of base malt? Really? What's the projected OG? That's a huge, huge, huge beer! I guess with 100 IBUs, it'd have to be but I'm wondering if you may want to try something a bit different like a regular IPA, instead of a double IPA on this go.

My DFH clone uses 13 pounds of base malt, and it's in the 1.070 range.
 
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eon

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Hey Yooper. Here is what the recipe has: 1.095/1.030 (5.5 Gal).

Unfortunately, this doesnt mean much to me. The last beer I made, I didnt take any gravity readings. I dont know when to take them! I just fermented for 3 weeks and everything turned out great!

I just made a stout that I am going to bottle today. I didnt create a starter. The guy at the homebrew store just told me to shake the liquid yeast and then pitch it. I hope everything turned out ok.

Well, The guys IPA recipe above sounds good but doesnt seem right like you said.
 

Slipgate

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My recipes always have the hop additions "AT" and the minutes. So "1 oz warrior hops - 10 min" means to add the hops 10 minutes into the boil. This started from a printed recipe and it says the word "at" in the recipe.

The rule of thumb that I use is high alpha hops early in the boil, lower alpha later.

So it would appear that it is said both ways. Making it somewhat confusing!

btw: For this recipe, there is a 55 minute total boil.
 

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Eon, If you want to do really big IPAs like this, one thing to learn about is hop utilization. I'm also an extract/partial mash brewer, and I am currently limited to about 4 gallons in my brew kettle. This becomes a problem with really hoppy beers because you need a full 5 gallon boil in order to get full utilization of the hops. You could just add more hops to make up for it, but that can get pretty expensive.

If you want to read about oxygenation/aeration, this is a decent article, http://***********/component/resource/article/1949-aerating-wort-techniques

And there are tons of places you can read about yeast starters, and I suggest you do. It can make a big improvement in your results.

I don't mean to be a downer, but I'd suggest brewing some lower gravity ales and focusing on your learning and getting your process dialed in. As you learn more, you'll have more confidence to tackle more challenging brews.

The other problem with big beers is that they are more expensive to brew. You may get lucky, and it will turn out fine, but if you don't, it could be pretty disappointing.

Good luck and have fun!

Hey Yooper. Here is what the recipe has: 1.095/1.030 (5.5 Gal).

Unfortunately, this doesnt mean much to me. The last beer I made, I didnt take any gravity readings. I dont know when to take them! I just fermented for 3 weeks and everything turned out great!

I just made a stout that I am going to bottle today. I didnt create a starter. The guy at the homebrew store just told me to shake the liquid yeast and then pitch it. I hope everything turned out ok.

Well, The guys IPA recipe above sounds good but doesnt seem right like you said.
 

david_42

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You could do a partial mash with

10 lbs light DME

1.25 lbs. - Melanoidin Malt
1.50 lbs - 2-row
Bag the grain in a large mesh bag and give them 60 minutes in 2 gallons of water at 150F
Rinse with another gallon of water at 180F
Mix in the DME and add enough water to hit 6 gallons.
 

DerfBrew

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Yes, but as I was saying, if you do this you'll hit the gravity, but you will have a really hard time getting the bitterness anywhere close to the targets.

I just threw that recipe into Beer Calculus, and if you have a 3.0 gallon average boil, it spits out a bitterness of around 45 IBUs. You'll have no problem hitting the gravity. The result will be a really malty, big bodied beer, that is lacking the balance of the hops.

I'm not saying you shouldn't try it, I am just trying to let you know that you will not get quite what you are expecting. Of course, if you can do a full wort boil, then you'll be fine.



You could do a partial mash with

10 lbs light DME

1.25 lbs. - Melanoidin Malt
1.50 lbs - 2-row
Bag the grain in a large mesh bag and give them 60 minutes in 2 gallons of water at 150F
Rinse with another gallon of water at 180F
Mix in the DME and add enough water to hit 6 gallons.
 
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eon

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Great info so far. I appreciate it. Hey Derf, Could you recommend a recipe that you might think I'll like? If I can't do Larger beers yet, I'd like to do something close to that style.

I'm really into:

Founders Double Trouble
Three Floyds Dreadnaught
Southern Tier unearthly
Victory Hop Wallop
Stone Ruination
Bells Hopslam
Founders Harvest Ale

Come to think of it, I would really love to do something similar to a Founders Harvest Ale.

you can find it here for an idea:

http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/1199/20478

I'm really just looking for an extract recipe with these flavor and aroma qualities.
 

Rick500

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Hopslam and Dreadnaught are my two all-time favorite beers. So I think I know what you're going for.

I just brewed this one (it's carbing up right now), and I think you'll like it. It turned out awesome. If you'd like, I'll convert it to extract for you:

Amarillo Imperial IPA (6 gallons)

69% efficiency

80 minute boil

OG 1.093
FG 1.019
ABV% 9.5
SRM 8.3
IBUs 120

19.00 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US 80 min
0.875 lbs Crystal 40L 80 min
1.30 lbs Corn Sugar 80 min
1.2 tsp Gypsum 60 min
102 g Amarillo 7.5% 60 min
68 g Amarillo 7.5% 15 min
1.2 tsp Irish Moss 15 min
1.2 tsp Yeast Nutrient 10 min
68 g Amarillo 7.5% 5 min
34 g Amarillo 7.5% 0 min
28 g Amarillo 7.5% dry hop (7 days)
WLP001 California Ale yeast - starter 1.8 liters

Mash at 152F for 60 minutes

Ferment at 66F

Dry hop at 66F-70F for 7 days

Carbonate to 2.4 volumes
 
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eon

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Hey Rick, I would love for you to convert this to extract for me. I appreciate it. Sounds delicious! Thanks for your help.
 

Rick500

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Sure:

Substitute 11.25 lbs Extra Light DME for the pale two row, steep the crystal 40 in 3 quarts of water at 165F for 30 minutes, boil for 60 minutes rather than 80, and use half the DME as a late addition at 15 minutes before the end of the boil. Hops schedule remains the same.

You'll probably get a little more hops utilization due to the late DME addition, something like +6%.
 

andy777

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This is my last extract batch. I call it Lunchbreak IPA because you can brew it in about an hour. I'll occasionally brew this as a quickie batch to fill a tap handle in between AG brew days. 10 minute boil, no steeping, and no dry hop so I'm drinking this in 2-3 weeks.
Comes out light, crisp and hoppy as heck. The hop bill is a Pliny adaptation.

Lunchbreak IPA #2

A ProMash Recipe Report

Recipe Specifics
----------------

Batch Size (Gal): 6.00 Wort Size (Gal): 6.00
Total Extract (Lbs): 12.50
Anticipated OG: 1.074 Plato: 17.94
Anticipated SRM: 8.7
Anticipated IBU: 82.5
Wort Boil Time: 10 Minutes

Pre-Boil Amounts
----------------

Evaporation Rate: 15.00 Percent Per Hour
Pre-Boil Wort Size: 6.15 Gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.072 SG 17.51 Plato

Formulas Used
-------------

Brewhouse Efficiency and Predicted Gravity based on Method #1, Potential Used.
Final Gravity Calculation Based on Points.
Hard Value of Sucrose applied. Value for recipe: 46.2100 ppppg
% Yield Type used in Gravity Prediction: Fine Grind Dry Basis.

Color Formula Used: Morey
Hop IBU Formula Used: Rager

Additional Utilization Used For Plug Hops: 2 %
Additional Utilization Used For Pellet Hops: 10 %


Grain/Extract/Sugar

% Amount Name Origin Potential SRM
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
96.0 12.00 lbs. Generic LME - Light Generic 1.035 7
4.0 0.50 lbs. Corn Sugar Generic 1.046 0

Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon.


Hops

Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
2.00 oz. Chinook Pellet 13.60 19.9 10 min.
2.00 oz. Simcoe Pellet 12.25 18.0 10 min.
2.00 oz. Tomahawk, F-10 Variety Pellet 15.30 22.4 10 min.
2.00 oz. Centennial Pellet 6.90 10.1 10 min.
4.00 oz. Cascade Whole 5.40 12.0 1 min.


Yeast
-----

White Labs WLP001 California Ale
 
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eon

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Thanks Rick.

I'm boiling for 60 minutes instead of 80min. cool. So does that mean I put the light DME, corn sugar, gypsum, and Amarillo hops in at 60 minutes? I put them all in at the same time and then start my timer?

Also, your recipe is for 6 gallons. I have the "Ale Pail" and I think it is 6.5 gallons if you fill it right to the top. Is that enough room for fermenting? I've always just filled to the 5 gallon line.

Last, How important is it to ferment this at 66 degrees? I dont know where I'm gonna ferment this cool! The last stout I made was fermenting between 68-72 pretty consistently in my basement. Would 72 degrees be too hot for this beer?

Thanks for your time Rick.
 

Rick500

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That's based on the assumption that you will have 6 gallons at the end of the boil, and transfer 5.5 gallons into the fermenter (half gallon lost to trub), then 5 gallons into bottles/keg after fermentation.

You should be pretty safe with 5.5 gallons in a 6.5 gallon fermenter. Might want to use a blow-off tube rather than an airlock though. [Edit: Now that I think about it, definitely use a blow-off tube. 5.5 gallons is starting to push it.]

If you want, you can scale the recipe down to having 5 gallons at the end of the boil, by multiplying all the quantities of all the ingredients by .83

At the beginning of the boil, you'll put in half the DME, all the corn sugar, the wort from the steeping grains, and the 60 minute hops (and water of course). Gypsum can go in at 60 minutes...I usually put it in about 15 minutes before the end of the boil, but it's not critical. It's just to emphasize the hops a bit...and whether you need it depends on your water chemistry anyway...but it won't hurt anything to use it.

Fermentation temperature is pretty important. WLP001 will ferment cleanly, in my experience, at 72 though. 68 would be just fine.

It's most critical for the first two or three days of fermentation, after which a few degrees warmer is fine.

You can put the fermenter in a big tub of water and put an old t-shirt over it so that the water wicks up through the shirt. The evaporation of the water will cool the fermenter considerably. You can also put a couple frozen bottles of water in the tub and change them out daily, to keep it cooler.
 

robbystock

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Hopslam and Dreadnaught are my two all-time favorite beers. So I think I know what you're going for.

I just brewed this one (it's carbing up right now), and I think you'll like it. It turned out awesome. If you'd like, I'll convert it to extract for you:

Amarillo Imperial IPA (6 gallons)

69% efficiency

80 minute boil

OG 1.093
FG 1.019
ABV% 9.5
SRM 8.3
IBUs 120

19.00 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US 80 min
0.875 lbs Crystal 40L 80 min
1.30 lbs Corn Sugar 80 min
1.2 tsp Gypsum 60 min
102 g Amarillo 7.5% 60 min
68 g Amarillo 7.5% 15 min
1.2 tsp Irish Moss 15 min
1.2 tsp Yeast Nutrient 10 min
68 g Amarillo 7.5% 5 min
34 g Amarillo 7.5% 0 min
28 g Amarillo 7.5% dry hop (7 days)
WLP001 California Ale yeast - starter 1.8 liters

Mash at 152F for 60 minutes

Ferment at 66F

Dry hop at 66F-70F for 7 days

Carbonate to 2.4 volumes
Are the quantities the same for pellet hops?
 

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I used 2oz each of Columbus,Nugget,& Whole leaf Cascade in my 6G IPA with 6.75lbs of malt. Going to add another pound of malt. The grapefruit flavor was good,but the orange & lemon got buried. Going to switch the 2oz of Nugget with 2oz of Citra. That might bring the orange & lemon back up.? Maybe an ounce of Sorachie Ace for more lemon up front? Just my 2c.
 

Rick500

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I'm pretty enthused with Citra lately.
 

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